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Greyhawk posted:Finished the tender for the metal steam engine. Now on to the presentation base board. Excuse me if this has been answered, but is this a kit or are you scratchbuilding? If it's a kit, are all parts ready for assembly or do they require some work? Also, will it be painted eventually?
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Feb 20, 2017 22:24
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| # ? May 29, 2024 23:56 |
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I believe it's one of those DeAgostini kits, where they split the kit up into 12+ sections, and send you a new section every month to work on. Beautiful kits, and pricey, but they seem worth the money.
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Feb 20, 2017 22:39
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Thats correct. It's a simple screw and glue kit with prepepared parts which has the advantage that I can build it in the office during lunch break without making any type of mess. It's kinda a plug and play type deal, not so much actual model building. Works nicely to get the head free though.
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Feb 21, 2017 03:26
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Continuing work on my gloomy fascist. Sadly the detail is rather soft, so the cross on his neck and the eagle on his hat are barely visible.
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Feb 22, 2017 02:39
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From Twitter... 
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Feb 22, 2017 03:40
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Hmm, thinking of some dio ideas.... Have to properly balance the layout so the ladies convey the concept that they will love G.I. Joe for up to and including a long time.
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Feb 22, 2017 04:46
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You also need a way to present the African-American soldier insisting that his pure Alabama Black Snake is impressive, but not too goddamn beaucoup.
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Feb 22, 2017 13:32
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I appreciate that the illustration has significantly more cleavage then the actual painted models. This is dangerously veering towards the German tradition of H0 scale fornication.
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Feb 22, 2017 13:36
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N17R4M posted:I appreciate that the illustration has significantly more cleavage then the actual painted models. This is dangerously veering towards the German tradition of H0 scale fornication. The scale means it's only a little obscene.
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Feb 22, 2017 13:49
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I might have screwed up the body. I dunno. Practicing washes and dry brushing on this.
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Feb 22, 2017 18:23
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How so?
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Feb 22, 2017 18:46
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Combination of wrong paint and improper prep. The paint is really delicate and the more I touch it the more imperfections I make. Basically I can't polish it down very much without removing it in chips.
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Feb 22, 2017 19:01
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Ah. To the brake fluid then! What paint are you using?
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Feb 22, 2017 19:04
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Hey guys. Not sure if this is the right place to ask or not. I'm looking to get an airbrush to paint some 28mm figures and possibly some scale models, and saw this Badger CO250 on amazon. Would a small spray gun + a can of propellant be a good intro to airbrushing?
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Feb 22, 2017 19:28
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There are already things glued to it so I think that's out. I think it can still turn out alright. It's a car from the '80s made with paper-thin Japanese steel so I was thinking about playing up the paint imperfections with little rust spots. I used the Tamiya polycarbonate rattle spray and prepped with light scuff sanding and then 91% iso. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 19:35 on Feb 22, 2017 |
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Feb 22, 2017 19:31
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Gotcha. That's PS spray right? I've been told that can be harsh on scale model plastics, might account for the issues you've been having. If you haven't used Tamiya's TS spray, it's excellent.
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Feb 22, 2017 19:47
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Yeah I think it's the PS spray. I've had real nice results with careful Rustoleum prep, application, and sanding. I kind of went down the same path but I don't think this paint is much like Rustoleum. After spraying it on I realized this is for the clear RC plastics. Anyhow I am having a buddy who paints armies coach me a little with the fine details. The wash and dry brush techniques are surprisingly easy and are turning out awesome. I washed everything in the engine bay except the engine because rotary engines don't ever last long enough to not be shiny. clutchpuck fucked around with this message at 20:20 on Feb 22, 2017 |
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Feb 22, 2017 20:17
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Yooper posted:From Twitter... Well at least you never got your nose bit off by a Saigon whore...  I bet you could pose the girls in proper scale by some modded out models of civics or something. I'd give them ammo belts and put them in tanks. Is that even real? I have a hard time thinking it's even real.
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Feb 22, 2017 21:00
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It's burgin' time! 
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I heart bacon posted:Well at least you never got your nose bit off by a Saigon whore... Ladies in tanks is real  This particular lady commanded a tank that destroyed three Tigers. I'm not sure this is an intelligible response to your post, but it's been on my mind, so I had to share. She died at age 23. Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 00:37 on Feb 23, 2017 |
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Feb 23, 2017 00:35
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This one started tanking it up because the Gitlerites killed her husband.
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Feb 23, 2017 00:41
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Colonial Air Force posted:This one started tanking it up because the Gitlerites killed her husband. drat. 38yo, sold everything to 'donate' a T-34 to the military, trained as a driver and mechanic, and posthumously awarded a Hero of the Soviet Union (their "Medal of Honor") for bravery in battle. Hell of a woman.
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Feb 23, 2017 00:57
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Combatace posted:Hey guys. Not sure if this is the right place to ask or not. I'm looking to get an airbrush to paint some 28mm figures and possibly some scale models, and saw this Badger CO250 on amazon. Would a small spray gun + a can of propellant be a good intro to airbrushing? I wouldn't. The canned air won't last long. If you're on the cheap you'll be better off getting a Master airbrush like this : https://www.amazon.com/Master-Airbrush-Multi-Purpose-Dual-Action-Professional/dp/B002KJDXHQ/ and pairing it with an airpig or even an inner tube. Before I got an Iwata compressor I'd drag my little garage air compressor inside and attach a regulator.
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Feb 23, 2017 01:19
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Yooper posted:I wouldn't. The canned air won't last long. There's also this Master compressor. This thread usually recommends the version with the tank, but I have this one, the tankless model, and it works just fine. It's a hair under $70, and works like a champ. Quiet enough to hold a conversation over, too. vvvv I had problems with the regulator after a year and a half. Replaced that one part and everything was fine. v  v
Blue Footed Booby fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Feb 23, 2017 |
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Feb 23, 2017 01:34
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I got that cheap master setup and it nearly instantly clogged and the regulator rusted shut like a month after I got it. Really regret buying it.
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Feb 23, 2017 02:22
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Blue Footed Booby posted:Ladies in tanks is real Woops. I knew women in tanks was real. I was mostly referring to the model kit posted that I replied to. Is that kit real? Bad posting on my part.
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Feb 23, 2017 16:26
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I may have chosen poorly. I asked the local hobby shop for paints for an A-10c and they sold me Vallejo USAF Medium Gray (71.120) and USAF Light Gray (71.121). This doesn't look right at all. (please ignore the unfinished black basing)  I'm not super into accuracy but this gonna need some major repainting, which will ruin the effort of black basing. Oh well, things don't always go as planned. This is what I was going for: 
makka-setan fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Feb 23, 2017 |
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Feb 23, 2017 19:49
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George Zimmer posted:Ah. To the brake fluid then! What paint are you using? I learned something interesting about Tamiya X and XF series paints yesterday. If you dump parts painted with these in lukewarm water saturated with washing soda the paint dissolves in about 15 seconds. No brushing or scraping necessary. It's just gone. Leaves the primer underneath intact too.
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Feb 23, 2017 20:23
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Is that the same as baking soda? Kinda makes sense with those acrylics, but I've found the TS paints (and likely the PS paints as well) will need heavier stuff.
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Feb 23, 2017 20:41
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Greyhawk posted:I learned something interesting about Tamiya X and XF series paints yesterday. If you dump parts painted with these in lukewarm water saturated with washing soda the paint dissolves in about 15 seconds. No brushing or scraping necessary. It's just gone. Leaves the primer underneath intact too. This is good news cause I have a real real badly painted F-22 somewhere that needs to be stripped.
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Feb 23, 2017 20:44
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makka-setan posted:I may have chosen poorly. I asked the local hobby shop for paints for an A-10c and they sold me Vallejo USAF Medium Gray (71.120) and USAF Light Gray (71.121). Same deal with my RX-7's interior. Your A-10 doesn't look too far off though unless I am not seeing something I should.
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Feb 23, 2017 20:58
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clutchpuck posted:Same deal with my RX-7's interior. Your A-10 doesn't look too far off though unless I am not seeing something I should. As always, photos suck. But the two grays are too different in hue. The one on the fuselage is a creamy almost beige gray and the one on the wings is more natural, but looks blueish in relation to the beige.
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Feb 23, 2017 21:07
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George Zimmer posted:Is that the same as baking soda? Kinda makes sense with those acrylics, but I've found the TS paints (and likely the PS paints as well) will need heavier stuff. No, you CAN turn baking soda into washing soda by heating it to 200°C for half an hour, but it makes no economical sense to do so. A 1 kg package of washing soda is like 2-3 Euro.
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Feb 23, 2017 21:32
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Anyone want to give my shopping list a once over? Paasche D3000R compressor Badger Patriot 105 gravity fed airbrush Vallejo grey surface primer Vallejo flow improver Vallejo model air starter kit (71178) I didn't add any thinner. Is that something I should buy with the Model Air paints, too? E: forgot a cleaner. Anything in particular to look for here? carticket fucked around with this message at 22:53 on Feb 23, 2017 |
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Feb 23, 2017 22:49
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You may want to go with a different primer. Vallejos primer is still decent, but it's been eclipsed by newer products. "Stynylrez" is the current best acrylic based primer. If you want a lacquer based primer, AK's Primer/Microfiller is really good. And if you want the easiest, Tamiyas Fine Surface Primer rattle-can is still a really good primer. Get some Vallejo thinner is well. Good stuff. As for cleaners, if you're just going to shoot acrylics, a big bottle of Medea Airbrush Cleaner can be found at most art stores and works great. If you're going to shoot lacquers, you want something stronger, like lacquer thinner, acetone, or 99% alcohol.
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Feb 23, 2017 23:10
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What about Badger Spectra Tex paints? There's a 6 pack of 2 oz primary colors that is significantly cheaper than the Vallejo.
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Feb 23, 2017 23:23
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Mr. Powers posted:Anyone want to give my shopping list a once over? If you have ventilation or a spray booth, I'd say go with Alclad gray primer (or any lacquer based primer) and some Mr. Hobby Leveling Thinner to thin it. I think the leveling thinner is a mix of lacquer thinner and some sort of glycol retarder. I believe the Vallejo flow improver is the same thing, but water based. Whatever it is, once I started using it instead of straight hardware store lacquer thinner, I had a lot less problems. For cleaning, I'd go with a gallon can of lacquer thinner from the hardware store. It will clean lacquers, enamels, and acrylics. Also, you'll want some sort of gloss coat and flat coat. I like the alclad ones. I originally started out with the Vallejo primers and bought almost the full range of Vallejo model colors. Later, I saw the Vallejo Model Air series was on sale so I bought the whole range. For the last three models, I bought a bunch of the Mr. Color lacquers and a spray booth (ventilated out a window) and I prefer the lacquers far more than the acrylics. If I had to do it all over again, I would have spent my money on picking up the full range of Mr. Color lacquers and bought a handful of the acrylics instead of the other way around. It is just SOOO much easier to clean lacquers from an airbrush than acrylics.
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Feb 24, 2017 03:09
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Spectra-Tex paints are fine, but they're really more suited to fine-art applications. The colors aren't all that "military', so significant mixing would be needed. One of the reasons companies like MRP and Vallejo put out such a wide range of colors is so that you can use the exact color you'll need, rather than having to mix anything. Even if you write down your mixing ratios, it can be next to impossible to mix up two batches of the exact same color that will match once on a model. As SkunkDuster said, if you can spare the cash, I'd go with the MRP/MR. Paints colors. They've quickly become the new high-end in model paints. If you can't go with those, then Vallejo is your next best option, and then Tamiya after that. Tamiya aren't bad or anything, they just always require thinning, come in crappy bottles, and the range is a bit limited by todays standards. Seriously, people like Tamiya and Gunze, GET NEW BOTTLES! Those old-rear end bottles are the worst, always dripping and getting paint in the lid threads.
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Feb 24, 2017 03:17
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Finished this ye olde StuG III Ausf G last week but forgot to post it. I'm a huge fan of the platform, but this is the first one I've managed to finish in my (albeit limited) modeling career. This was my first try at a really muddy tank using pigments and I'm pretty happy with how they turned out. In the past, I've struggled with pigments looking to "placed" and artificial, but I think I've worked through that now. Made one hell of a mess on my workbench though, so there's that. Also, this was started before a move and finished after, so a couple of parts came up missing in the month long chaos of boxes and whatnot. Anyway, I was shooting for an early StuG III G that had survived the trials of the '43/'44 winter, working into spring. It was finished with Tamiya paints. Base coat was chipped with the sponge method and the whitewash chipped with the hairspray method. Oils were used for weathering.    
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Feb 24, 2017 03:43
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Looks amazing! My only complaint is that it seems to have survived the trials of the winter without firing a shot. There's no soot on the muzzle brake or worn paint around the part of the barrel that recoils into the mantlet.Bloody Hedgehog posted:Spectra-Tex paints are fine, but they're really more suited to fine-art applications. The colors aren't all that "military', so significant mixing would be needed. One of the reasons companies like MRP and Vallejo put out such a wide range of colors is so that you can use the exact color you'll need, rather than having to mix anything. Even if you write down your mixing ratios, it can be next to impossible to mix up two batches of the exact same color that will match once on a model. I like Tamiya bottles because you end up with a nice reusable glass bottle instead of a crappy plastic thing you throw away. I've never had a lid break on me, which is more than I can say for other brands *coughprivateerpresscough* I also found that you can get a lot of military colours in wargaming themed lines. Privateer Press Traitor Green and Battledress Green are pretty good standins for weathered 4BO green and khaki, for instance. Depending on your LGS you can get a lot of your military paints for lower prices.
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Feb 24, 2017 04:04
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Seriously, people like Tamiya and Gunze, GET NEW BOTTLES! Those old-rear end bottles are the worst, always dripping and getting paint in the lid threads. I bought something like 1000 cocktail straws for a couple bucks and I use those to transfer paint from the bottles to my paint mixing cups. Dip the straw in and cover the other end with your finger and transfer it two drops at a time. Not great, but keeps the threads clean for small mixes. For the paint mixing cups, I went to a restaurant supply website and got 2500 1/2oz portion cups for about $30. Beats the heck out of cleaning my porcelain paint mixing tray every 10 mixes!
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Feb 24, 2017 04:39
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