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there wolf posted:
Wow those shouldn't be slip joints but ya you can replace the gasket and they should hold. As mentioned above you can also tighten them.
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Feb 16, 2017 05:34
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Wow those shouldn't be slip joints but ya you can replace the gasket and they should hold. As mentioned above you can also tighten them. What should they be, because if I have to take it apart to replace a gasket I might as well replace it with what it should be.
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Feb 16, 2017 06:25
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there wolf posted:What should they be, because if I have to take it apart to replace a gasket I might as well replace it with what it should be. It should be all glue together with no slip joints . So go back and convert it to ABS or PVC
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Feb 16, 2017 14:11
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May need your help in listing materials and guidance on installation - I need to replumb my kitchen sink drains. I think the lovely drain setup for our dishwasher has caused our DW drain pump to fail. Will provide pictures when I get home. Here are the details: - Standard 22x33 stainless dbl basin drop-in - Will be adding a garbage disposal and air switch - Supplies are OK, issue is just drain - Will need to know what tools/materials I'll need PO of our house (we bought last Oct) knew just enough to be dangerous. Instead of connecting to a drain tee or something on the tailpiece, the basin drains collecting and THEN flow into a drain tee. The DW drain is routed into the same drain tee, on the run, but about a foot of material between the DW drain hose and the PVC drain tee looks to be Pex, and I think it's kinking, preventing the DW from draining. TIA!
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Feb 16, 2017 18:10
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SyHopeful posted:May need your help in listing materials and guidance on installation - I need to replumb my kitchen sink drains. I think the lovely drain setup for our dishwasher has caused our DW drain pump to fail. Will provide pictures when I get home. Here are the details: Why don't you start with posting a picture? Make sure it's well lit. It can get quite dark inside a cabinet.
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Feb 16, 2017 19:09
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kid sinister posted:Why don't you start with posting a picture? Make sure it's well lit. It can get quite dark inside a cabinet. At work when I decided to post. Will do on the lighting.
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Feb 16, 2017 21:31
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Wow those shouldn't be slip joints but ya you can replace the gasket and they should hold. As mentioned above you can also tighten them. Where I plumb slip joint waste and overflows are still generally legal so long as there's an access panel. I do generally agree that glued is better, just wanted to clarify.
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Feb 17, 2017 08:28
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Jadunk posted:Where I plumb slip joint waste and overflows are still generally legal so long as there's an access panel. I do generally agree that glued is better, just wanted to clarify. Crazy, but not shocking since each states codes differ.
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Feb 17, 2017 14:06
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Jadunk posted:Where I plumb slip joint waste and overflows are still generally legal so long as there's an access panel. I do generally agree that glued is better, just wanted to clarify. Legal in Hawaii as well.
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Feb 17, 2017 19:31
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Rd Rash 1000cc posted:Crazy, but not shocking since each states codes differ. Yeah, I'm guessing your states code is based off the IPC rather than UPC? (or I guess they just went way more strict than UPC on that front)
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Feb 18, 2017 04:22
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Jadunk posted:Yeah, I'm guessing your states code is based off the IPC rather than UPC? (or I guess they just went way more strict than UPC on that front) Washington is off the UPC. It may not be code and I've only seen them glued so I assumed.
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Feb 18, 2017 05:14
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I have two of these connectors under a sink that I am wanting to replace, already have the replacement sink thanks to a family member, it will be a pedestal sink also (if it matters). I went to close both water valves and now the valves leak when closed and leak (less) when open. I know I need to replace them prior to swapping the sink but what do I need to buy? What steps do I need to follow? 1. Turn off main house water and drain all the pipes (I know where my main water shut off is).  I've done minor plumbing work before (replacing faucets, toilet repair, garbage disposal installation) so I feel confident in doing the work, just want to do it right and hopefully make only one trip to home depot to buy the needed parts. Thanks.
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Feb 18, 2017 19:49
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Turd Herder posted:It should be all glue together with no slip joints . So go back and convert it to ABS or PVC Here in Michigan I almost always see tubular waste and overflow assemblies. I can't remember the last time I came across a trap above ground that was glue instead of slip nuts.
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Feb 18, 2017 20:40
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tangy yet delightful posted:I have two of these connectors under a sink that I am wanting to replace, already have the replacement sink thanks to a family member, it will be a pedestal sink also (if it matters). Tighten the packing nut (behind the handle) with a wrench until it stop leaking when turned off. If that doesn't work, remove the packing nut, bring it to the hardware store and get some new seals that fit on it.
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Feb 18, 2017 21:29
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Motronic posted:Tighten the packing nut (behind the handle) with a wrench until it stop leaking when turned off. If that doesn't work, remove the packing nut, bring it to the hardware store and get some new seals that fit on it. That seems to have worked perfectly and taken all of 5 seconds. Thanks. At this point I plan to do the sink swap tomorrow so fingers crossed I'm not back here posting.
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Feb 18, 2017 23:22
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Motronic posted:It in fact does, particularly if you are over softening the water (it will eat up the anodes in no time). Thanks for the feedback, I'm finally getting off my lazy rear end to do this. T&P is on the side of the tank. http://www.statewaterheaters.com/lit/partslist/res-gas/186830-001.pdf #3 in the illustration still confuses me. Does this outlet anode sit below the outlet pipe or is it the outlet pipe? If there is actually a second anode in there the outlet pipe is welded and I'm pretty sure I don't want to deal with that. Thanks again!
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Feb 20, 2017 12:24
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Kjermzs posted:Thanks for the feedback, I'm finally getting off my lazy rear end to do this. T&P is on the side of the tank. http://www.statewaterheaters.com/lit/partslist/res-gas/186830-001.pdf #3 in the illustration still confuses me. Does this outlet anode sit below the outlet pipe or is it the outlet pipe? If there is actually a second anode in there the outlet pipe is welded and I'm pretty sure I don't want to deal with that. It looks like that's a standard outlet pipe anode (#3). Don't know why anything would be welded, it's supposed to be removable. Or are you talking about soldered pipes being in the way? In any case, the unnumbered "anode or top tap location" appears to be something you can use for an easily replaceable anode since your T&P is on the side.
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Feb 20, 2017 16:17
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Motronic posted:It looks like that's a standard outlet pipe anode (#3). Don't know why anything would be welded, it's supposed to be removable. Or are you talking about soldered pipes being in the way? Here's a photo. You can see the regular anode right behind the outlet but I don't know how to get to the additional outlet anode without soldering some pipe. 
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Feb 20, 2017 17:30
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Kjermzs posted:Here's a photo. You can see the regular anode right behind the outlet but I don't know how to get to the additional outlet anode without soldering some pipe. Yeah, the installer boned you there (unless there is something above that was meant to be disconnected). In any case, just pull that other anode and check what kind of shape it's in. Replace as necessary.
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Feb 20, 2017 18:12
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Motronic posted:Yeah, the installer boned you there (unless there is something above that was meant to be disconnected). Yup, everything above is soldered too. Thanks for your help! I'll order the main anode and t&p and get this done next weekend.
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Feb 20, 2017 20:40
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A little overdue, but pics.   Should I get a pic of the drain connection? Looks like galvanized, coming directly up from the floor.
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Feb 21, 2017 04:05
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SyHopeful posted:A little overdue, but pics. Oh god... That's pretty bad. Basically, you have an S trap, which already have problems getting sucked dry, with the dishwasher train located in a position that it will promote sucking the trap dry. This will be a pretty involved repair. Let's see that floor connection. Is there a basement or crawlspace below that so you could check out the plumbing underneath? What wall is to the back of that cabinet? kid sinister fucked around with this message at 23:40 on Feb 21, 2017 |
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Feb 21, 2017 23:37
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kid sinister posted:Oh god... That's pretty bad. Basically, you have an S trap, which already have problems getting sucked dry, with the dishwasher train located in a position that it will promote sucking the trap dry. This will be a pretty involved repair. At work for another 30 minutes, will get that pic when I get home! I do have a crawlspace I can get into. The back wall is a former exterior wall made interior with the addition of a sun room. But the sun room is on poured slab I believe. ETA: Is my lack of an air gap also an issue? Or would this layout explain why my DW has problems draining completely? SyHopeful fucked around with this message at 00:11 on Feb 22, 2017 |
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Feb 22, 2017 00:08
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SyHopeful posted:At work for another 30 minutes, will get that pic when I get home! Your lack of a vent is probably causing your issue. That's why you need to get under the house and see if there is a vent you can use. You will also need to get into the wall behind there too. I see there's plywood. Is it screwed in and easily removable?
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Feb 22, 2017 01:01
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kid sinister posted:Your lack of a vent is probably causing your issue. That's why you need to get under the house and see if there is a vent you can use. You will also need to get into the wall behind there too. I see there's plywood. Is it screwed in and easily removable? He has a studder vent though. It 's just really low and should be a lot closer to the flood level rim of the fixture. edit: nevermind I saw wrong. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Feb 22, 2017 |
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Feb 22, 2017 01:13
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  Jesus that galv looks like muffler piping.
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Feb 22, 2017 02:08
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SyHopeful posted:
That's still not looking good. We will need a picture of the piping in the crawlspace where that galvanized pipe pokes through the floor. And what about the plywood panel in the back of the cabinet? If it can be removed, remove it and post a picture of the inside. Turd Herder posted:edit: nevermind I saw wrong. Haha I made the same mistake until I saw the last picture. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 07:51 on Feb 22, 2017 |
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Feb 22, 2017 07:41
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kid sinister posted:That's still not looking good. We will need a picture of the piping in the crawlspace where that galvanized pipe pokes through the floor. And what about the plywood panel in the back of the cabinet? If it can be removed, remove it and post a picture of the inside. Spelunking it is! Will also take a harder look at that plywood when I'm home, sorry I missed that last night. Not sure I could get it off without removing those brass supply tees, which are before the angle stops. Guess I should know where my shutoff is!
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Feb 22, 2017 17:08
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SyHopeful posted:Spelunking it is! Will also take a harder look at that plywood when I'm home, sorry I missed that last night. Not sure I could get it off without removing those brass supply tees, which are before the angle stops. Guess I should know where my shutoff is! Good luck. You might find more problems that you will need to fix. You need to find a vent. If this is the original kitchen, then there should be one close by. In the crawlspace, look for a pipe going up that is near that S trap going through the floor. You should be able to measure from the S trap pipe to figure out far away the vent is. Once you know how far away the vent is, then you should have a pretty good idea of where to find that vent in the wall behind that cabinet. Bring the following with you into the crawlspace: a flashlight, camera and measuring tape.
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Feb 23, 2017 00:58
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kid sinister posted:Good luck. You might find more problems that you will need to fix. Oh poo poo, I probably will find a vent nearby. The only bathroom in the house is directly above the kitchen and I know it's vented, I just gotta find where it ties in.
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Feb 23, 2017 01:40
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tangy yet delightful posted:That seems to have worked perfectly and taken all of 5 seconds. Thanks. I idiotically assumed that the drain pipe to back of sink/wall distance would be some universal standard and now I am left with this situation after getting everything hooked up:  This is a problem visually of course but also because I need to secure the pedestal sink to the wall (which after drilling I have found to consist of beadboard paneling over drywall) with toggle bolts and washers through holes in the back of the sink. This obviously cannot work unless the sink is flush with the wall. So, how do I cut this drain pipe shorter, correctly, to fix my sink-to-wall distance problem?  My guess is that I can unscrew the slip nut to remove it from the wall and then I need to use a pipe cutter tool to shorten the pipe. With plenty of measuring of course. Correct? Other tools needed? Pipe cutter tool recommendations for light home use?
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Feb 23, 2017 03:13
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tangy yet delightful posted:I idiotically assumed that the drain pipe to back of sink/wall distance would be some universal standard and now I am left with this situation after getting everything hooked up: Yes you can unscrew the nut and the chrome tube should slide out. You can remove the chrome p trap and install a plastic one also if you don't want to buy a pipe cutter.
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Feb 23, 2017 05:00
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Turd Herder posted:Yes you can unscrew the nut and the chrome tube should slide out. All of the backside drain piping is chrome. Would I need it all to be plastic if I made that change? Can a chrome p trap match up to a plastic straight pipe same as chrome to chrome? Although since it's exposed I will probably visually end up needing to keep the chrome (not that the wall and POs lovely large hole are doing any favors).
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Feb 23, 2017 06:34
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you'd have to loosen the nut thats in the wall to remove the entire crome horizontal piece. But for aesthetics you can keep it all home. And throw in an escutcheon while you are at it and it wont look half bad.
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Feb 23, 2017 14:16
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So, if my replumb ends up being something beyond my skills, is it possible to at least set up an air gap so I can stop handwashing dishes?
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Feb 23, 2017 16:50
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SyHopeful posted:So, if my replumb ends up being something beyond my skills, is it possible to at least set up an air gap so I can stop handwashing dishes? If you mean temporarily, Run the drain hose into the sink and close off its opening in the drain pipe. Use a rag, plastic bag and a rubber band, etc. With glued pipes like yours, you would have to replace everything from between the sinks and that no hub coupling just to be able to install a dishwasher drain piece. The no hub coupling is the rubber piece with a metal sleeve and 2 hose clamps near the floor. Coincidentally, the proper fix involves replacing all that anyway, especially if you're also installing a disposal. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 21:18 on Feb 23, 2017 |
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Feb 23, 2017 21:16
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My water heater is leaking a bit. I'm excited, because I've been looking forward to replacing it with a tankless unit for a long time. Any recommendations on brands for tankless water heaters?
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Feb 24, 2017 01:26
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Squashy Nipples posted:My water heater is leaking a bit. I'm excited, because I've been looking forward to replacing it with a tankless unit for a long time. rinnai
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Feb 24, 2017 01:35
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Qwijib0 posted:rinnai Never heard of it, but the reviews are decent on this model: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Rinnai-Super-High-Efficiency-7-5-GPM-160-BTU-Indoor-Natural-Gas-Tankless-Water-Heater/999959665 Definitely going to go with a Super High Efficiency unit, that was a great decision on my furnace, plus the tax credits, of course. I'm most likely going to get professional installation, if only because it makes getting the credits easier in MA. Anything else I should know about selecting a tankless unit?
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Feb 24, 2017 15:13
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Squashy Nipples posted:
You have to have a water softener. And your in coming ground water temperature will affect the GPM rating it can produce. Turd Herder fucked around with this message at 15:20 on Feb 24, 2017 |
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Feb 24, 2017 15:18
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