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Also, there's very little reason to take a common car that's out of warranty to a dealer, outside of recalls. The work they do is generally as good as a good independent shop, but marked up a lot higher. Even when you get to some of the more expensive brands, there's almost always speciality shops that are cheaper than the dealer, and a lot of them prefer to use OEM parts (like the dealer normally does - those shops generally have a commercial account with a dealer parts department, plus the more common parts houses). e: not really related, but my coworker still takes his 250k 2006 Prius to the dealer for most service, but apparently he blew one of the service writers and gets work done at a rate that's comparable to a Toyota-specific independent shop. But they've had it for almost a week waiting on a new half shaft to come in (outer CV blew apart when they pulled the suspension apart to install new struts). They always give him a loaner car, but it has a 150/day mileage restriction. He normally drives 300-400 a day, so his income is cut to about 1/3 just from trying to stay within the mileage limits at the moment.
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Mar 22, 2017 05:43
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I was finally able to get ahold of the shop I used to bring my outback to and they're saying ~$450 for the rear lower control arms (which is what I need apparently). Still not thrilled but cutting the price in half is a good outcome.
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Mar 22, 2017 19:34
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That still stings, but sounds a lot more reasonable. Ask them if that includes an alignment. Anytime suspension parts get replaced, you should get an alignment. Even if it doesn't include one, it's not a big expense (it's cheaper than weird tire wear)
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Mar 23, 2017 00:20
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IOwnCalculus posted:I picked up a radiator pressure tester kit today. I'll pull the plugs and give that a shot, and alternatively snag a leakdown tester and do that with the radiator cap off. Probably stick a borescope in the plug holes too. If you don't get anywhere with those, grab a cooling system exhaust gas tester. Make sure you drive around with whatever the gently caress you have for "coolant" in there now for a while first and see if it comes up with exhaust gas in it. With the other problems you've had with this cooling system and that fact that it doesn't seem you've every legit cooked it I'm gonna guess it's yet another leak somewhere that's sucking air in when it's off and cooling. Hopefully you can find it with the pressure tester.
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Mar 24, 2017 07:37
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Considering doing a full strut replacement on my old lady's 04 accord sedan. There are some decent rebates on KYB struts, including the fully build ones with springs and hats included. These struts have the older style really tightly coiled smaller diameter springs, which seem higher risk to compress with and assemble, so I don't want to gently caress around with trying to mount springs. The price shakes out to roughly the same as monroes, but I am leaning towards the KYBs. Anyone have any input on this decision?
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Mar 24, 2017 17:00
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Motronic posted:If you don't get anywhere with those, grab a cooling system exhaust gas tester. Make sure you drive around with whatever the gently caress you have for "coolant" in there now for a while first and see if it comes up with exhaust gas in it. I tested it with one of those a while back, couldn't manage to keep the coolant from fouling it since it's a pain in the rear end to drain it down from that 90 degree neck. If I don't see anything conclusive from pressurizing the radiator, I'll grab a leakdown tester and go the other way.
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Mar 24, 2017 18:22
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IOwnCalculus posted:If I don't see anything conclusive from pressurizing the radiator, I'll grab a leakdown tester and go the other way. Yeah, that's a pretty good plan. My favorite leakdown tester experience was the one where the dipstick violently blew out.........
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Mar 24, 2017 19:59
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Stupid registration question: I'm going to be moving from state to state, with a 1 month "in-between" period where I'm not really going to have a true home address. My car registration ends at the end of June. I'm hoping to start registration in my new state in August. Is that a bad plan?
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Mar 24, 2017 23:20
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Residency Evil posted:Stupid registration question: Just don't let the cops see you. They can and will ticket you for expired plates. Out-of-state plates will make it harder for them to spot it, though. Registering late in and of itself is no big deal, though. There's no additional penalties or anything.
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Mar 24, 2017 23:34
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Residency Evil posted:Stupid registration question: My city will tow/impound parked cars with expired plates, which is definitely more expensive than renewing them. The parking checkers have ALPRs (automatic license plate readers), so the computer just beeps/alerts them whenever it finds one. Their policy is to not tow for plates that are less than 30 days expired, but who knows what other municipalities do. I'd say just renew them in your current state and get new plates in your new state at a future date. Yea it's still likely illegal to not register your vehicle at a certain point after changing residency, but it's certainly less risky than rolling around with expired plates. I see cop cars with ALPRs on them as well, so yeah. `Nemesis fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Mar 24, 2017 |
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Mar 24, 2017 23:45
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Deteriorata posted:Just don't let the cops see you. They can and will ticket you for expired plates. Out-of-state plates will make it harder for them to spot it, though. I figured that was the case. It's probably easier to just eat the annual registration fee for the month. I'll be driving through several states that month and the PA turnpike is notorious for cops.
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Mar 24, 2017 23:45
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Need some help with my friends car we're trying to get running perfectly again. Car: BMW 330Ci E46 (euro spec) with M54 engine Symptoms: Misfire at idle, cold/warm. Off idle it runs good. My suspicion is it's a vacuum leak somewhere, tried the old starter fluid trick but I suspect the engine management is so fast it instantly compensates and nothing is noticeable. When we unplugged the MAF the misfires go away completely, it just runs rich (as expected) but smoothly. Main thing I think it might be is the intake boot because it's supposedly the most common place for it to leak unmetered air into the engine. But all tips are appreciated. We did a full service last winter, oil, filters, plugs. Recently changed oil and oil filter again. Used Castrol Edge and Denso Iridium Power spark plugs. Oil filter and air filter are both from good brands too. Thanks in advance!
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Mar 25, 2017 00:05
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PaintVagrant posted:Considering doing a full strut replacement on my old lady's 04 accord sedan. There are some decent rebates on KYB struts, including the fully build ones with springs and hats included. These struts have the older style really tightly coiled smaller diameter springs, which seem higher risk to compress with and assemble, so I don't want to gently caress around with trying to mount springs. KYB all the way. That's what her Accord left the factory with. Monroe is complete garbage in comparison.
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Mar 25, 2017 00:12
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Residency Evil posted:I'm going to be moving from state to state, with a 1 month "in-between" period where I'm not really going to have a true home address. My car registration ends at the end of June. Going to depart from consensus here and say don't worry too much about it. Law enforcement tends to have an institutional opinion that if it's not their job to ignore it, and an expired out of state plate is definitely going to fall under this category. It's not like you're even breaking that state's laws, unless you give them a reason to pull you over they'll more than likely leave you alone.
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Mar 25, 2017 00:21
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Residency Evil posted:I figured that was the case. It's probably easier to just eat the annual registration fee for the month. I'll be driving through several states that month and the PA turnpike is notorious for cops. Depending on the state too, you can get a refund for the unused portion of your registration when you cancel it.
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Mar 25, 2017 00:24
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:KYB all the way. That's what her Accord left the factory with. Monroe is complete garbage in comparison. Nice. Didn't realize they were oem. Not a terrible price either from rockauto, 400 shipped after a manufacturer rebate.
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Mar 25, 2017 00:44
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Yup, they're OEM for GM, Honda, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Infiniti, Chrysler, Subaru, Toyota, Lexus, and Volkswagen (according to their own website). I'm sure in some cases they may not be the OEM for an entire car maker's lineup, but I know most Toyotas and Hondas have them from the factory. That's not a bad price at all! randomidiot fucked around with this message at 01:23 on Mar 25, 2017 |
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Mar 25, 2017 01:21
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Anecdotally, but a friend here has been rolling with expired out-of-state plates for the ~2 years I've known them, because this state's cops don't give a poo poo about enforcing another state's registration fees. Actual question: Headlight lens polishing/cleaning for $50 a side, or entirely new headlights for $65 a side? For my mom's CRV, the lenses on which are BAD.
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Mar 25, 2017 02:13
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I'd replace them, personally. Not sure what year your mom's CRV is, but if it's a first gen it's the same as replacing them on a 96-00 Civic... which is basically removing the bumper cover, then removing a few bolts from the headlamp housings. I can't imagine it being much more difficult on a newer one.
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Mar 25, 2017 02:24
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2002. And actually, rockauto has headlights for $42 which is a much easier sell if they're not poo poo. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/honda,2002,cr-v,2.4l+l4,1386334,body,headlamp+assembly,10762 I know Dorman is solid, but "VARIOUS MFR" gives me the heebies a little bit.
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Mar 25, 2017 02:32
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Was easier cheaper to replace my mom's former Mustang headlights with eBay repops than polish and risk the paint. On my Taurus I polished and they came out awesome.
everdave fucked around with this message at 03:21 on Mar 25, 2017 |
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Mar 25, 2017 03:05
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Cached Money posted:Need some help with my friends car we're trying to get running perfectly again. Is it popping any codes? Go buy some good MAF cleaner and spray the hell out of your MAF. E46s are at an age where a lot of the engine bay plastic stuff needs to be replaced if it hasn't been, even on low mileage ones. My 86,000mile 2005 330Ci popped P0171/174 (lean) and after doing the research (likely a vac leak) I decided to load the parts cannon - I love the car and plan on keeping it awhile, so it made sense. Rebuilt the whole CCV system, whose hoses shattered in my hands (I also did the o-rings on the ccv rail). Rebuilt the DISA valve which is another common vac leak (o-ring seal was hardened/squared off). The lower intake boot had several rips in it. Wasn't too bad of a job really aside from fishing the CCV system through the intake runners. Incidentally, I also recently rebuilt the VANOS seals w/the Beisan systems kit - it made a big difference; acceleration feels like a new car now. If your buddy is serious about getting it perfect again that's definitely something to consider once you solve the misfire.
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Mar 25, 2017 03:29
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Yup, they're OEM for GM, Honda, Mazda, Mitsubishi, Nissan, Infiniti, Chrysler, Subaru, Toyota, Lexus, and Volkswagen (according to their own website). Monroe is also OEM on several of those as well, namely domestic stuff. And the KYBs are considered a premium alternative to the basic monroe offerings and on par with the monroe reflex line. Between the higher end monroes and kyb I'd wager you wouldn't feel a difference in ride.
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Mar 25, 2017 05:40
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Random fun and completely irrelevant fact: NGK distributes KYB in Australia.
totalnewbie fucked around with this message at 06:03 on Mar 25, 2017 |
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Mar 25, 2017 05:59
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Geoj posted:Going to depart from consensus here and say don't worry too much about it. Law enforcement tends to have an institutional opinion that if it's not their job to ignore it, and an expired out of state plate is definitely going to fall under this category. Here in Illinois expired out of state plates will get a ticket.
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Mar 25, 2017 08:54
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The Royal Nonesuch posted:Is it popping any codes? Go buy some good MAF cleaner and spray the hell out of your MAF. Oh, forgot the codes. Misfire cylinder 2, 4, 6 and "Map Cooling Thermostat Control Circuit Electrical" but that might not be related. Update: We sprayed the MAF down with cleaner today, seems to have improved the misfire issue but it's not gone completely. We took the car for a good drive, revved the engine out a bunch while I monitored the engine through INPA on a laptop. Got the same cylinder 2 + 4 + 6 misfire codes but only when the car was just started, they did not trip again after the drive when we came back to the garage, so definite improvement. We managed to clean out a bunch of crap stuck in the exhaust somewhere too. Anyone know how to read the "rough" idle values in the status monitor part of INPA? One cylinder (number 2) is returning a little higher values than the others, not up in the red though, just +0.5-0.7, what might that be an indication of? Cached Money fucked around with this message at 22:10 on Mar 25, 2017 |
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Mar 25, 2017 13:57
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Me and my buddy are sitting around drinking im flipping through truck magazine with a bunch of jacked up bro trucks. A debate insues. Would a longer drive shaft require more torque to turn at the same rpm.
Preoptopus fucked around with this message at 23:28 on Mar 25, 2017 |
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Mar 25, 2017 23:25
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Preoptopus posted:Ne and my buddy are sitting around drinking im flipping through truck magazine with a bunch of jacked up bro trucks. A debate insues. Would a longer drive shaft require more torque to turn at the same rpm. Not directly, but it would if it ended up being heavier. More rotational inertia means less acceleration at the wheels. If you had two shafts of otherwise identical construction, the longer one would give you less acceleration.
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Mar 25, 2017 23:34
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So using a longer extension to get a bolt off doesn't take more force to break loose?
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Mar 25, 2017 23:56
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Preoptopus posted:So using a longer extension to get a bolt off doesn't take more force to break loose? If by "longer extension" you mean a longer adapter between the socket and the ratchet, no it doesn't make any difference*. If "longer extension" means an extension to the ratchet itself, then yes it does reduce the force because it gives you a longer torque arm. *Technically, it does because you have more rotating mass. However, the resistance in this case is due to friction in the threads and the tiny additional torque to rotate the socket is insignificant.
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Mar 26, 2017 00:01
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Preoptopus posted:So using a longer extension to get a bolt off doesn't take more force to break loose? TBH I think the extension flexing takes up some of the torque which is why rattleguns seem to get less powerful the longer your extension gets. I don't think it takes more force but it certainly takes more angular travel on the wrench which makes it feel like it takes more force.
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Mar 26, 2017 01:00
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A socket extension acts like a torsional spring. With a rattlegun, which transmits force as a series of sharp blows, the extension will wind up and then release, reducing the peak torque going to the socket. This is how "torque sticks" function to avoid over-tightening lug nuts. With a hand ratchet or a breaker bar, you will feel the extension flex, then reach the end of its spring range, until you either break the bolt loose, or something goes plastic (you round off the fastener or twist the extension permanently)
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Mar 26, 2017 02:24
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MRC48B posted:A socket extension acts like a torsional spring. With a rattlegun, which transmits force as a series of sharp blows, the extension will wind up and then release, reducing the peak torque going to the socket. Bam. thanks
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Mar 26, 2017 03:23
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Cop Porn Popper posted:Monroe is also OEM on several of those as well, namely domestic stuff. And the KYBs are considered a premium alternative to the basic monroe offerings and on par with the monroe reflex line. Between the higher end monroes and kyb I'd wager you wouldn't feel a difference in ride. That's... surprising to me. Yeah, if both were new, I doubt I'd be able to tell a difference in ride quality. But in my own experience, Monroe aftermarket parts just don't seem to last long. But I'll admit I've only bought their low end stuff. I wonder what's on my G5CobaltIonry? It definitely needs rear shocks, maybe even springs back there (seems like the back is sagging a bit). Fronts still seem pretty good given the mileage - definitely not new, but still decent.
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Mar 26, 2017 07:24
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Higher cars are more wonky in turning. Can this be offset by getting bigger rims?
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Mar 27, 2017 07:53
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Boz0r posted:Higher cars are more wonky in turning. Can this be offset by getting bigger rims? To some extent. Greater unsprung mass will wonkify your turning, though. You'd be better off just lowering the car and redistributing mass as low as possible, in general. Or just get a lower car.
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Mar 27, 2017 14:23
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Anyone pulled a leaking oil pan on a Dakota 4.7? Do you have to lift the engine? Oil pan is rusted and it's going to need to be replaced eventually.
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Mar 27, 2017 15:38
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Shop doing the airbag recall on my Saabaru said I have air in my power steering pump. I'm wondering if the o-ring is the leak per: https://howtune.com/articles/216-repair-the-whining-steering-pump-on-a-subaru-impreza-wrx-sti If I replace the o-ring, do I still need to bleed the system to get the air out? It sounds like a pain.
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Mar 27, 2017 18:26
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go find a reservoir cap at a junk yard, drill a hole. Find some vacuum line. Find a small vacuum access in your intake and hook it up to the reservoir. let idle for a while.
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Mar 27, 2017 19:42
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IOwnCalculus posted:Post up if you get it back, but I'd put very strong odds on that car being already trashed / ripped apart to sell spares.  UPDATE: Car found, but currently undriveable Some of you may recall about two weeks ago, my mom's civic got stolen. Well, they found it, and by "they" I mean the police spotted it in a nearby trailer park.  The car looks no different before being abducted, and checking under the hood indicates nothing mechanical was done either. Exception being whoever stole the car used the flathead screwdriver method because the ignition starter switch is totally hosed and won't turn with the original key in there. Fortunately my mom got most of her stuff back that she left in the trunk and backseat, but obviously the aftermarket stereo (the one I bought for her mother's day like 5 years ago  )and a couple other items more valuable to meth-heads were gone. Currently waiting on the car to go from impound to salvage for insurance to decide what to do with it, which raises a few questions:-Think insurance is going to total the car, or actually bother spending the $500 the car is literally worth to fix it? -She had liability only on the insurance policy, does that change the outcome on the previous question? -And finally, I guess I'll need to wander over to the "Recommend me a car" thread to figure out to replace her car with? Wish I could've posted something involving goon justice and apprehending the perps (  ), but we're just glad she got some of her stuff back.
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Mar 29, 2017 03:46
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