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Neat, thanks all, and anyone else I may have missed
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May 9, 2017 01:30
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angryrobots posted:I can't speak for all utilities, but we literally have a service ticket for "re-seal meter". I did one Friday. the cable dude took the seal and special screw thing completely off my cable box so i could clean wasp nests out in summer. they care shockingly little unless you're loving around. as an interesting note, if the specs on my smart meter are accurate, if the only power i was using in my house was lighting, it couldn't sense that little current
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May 9, 2017 04:20
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Why do you say that?
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May 9, 2017 17:40
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Just as a follow up, this is pretty much what happened:babyeatingpsychopath posted:"I was doing yard work the other day and swept up that plastic tag thingy that's normally on the meter"
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May 9, 2017 22:51
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Sure that's what happened SO FAR, but just wait until the swat team shows up to raid your grow op!
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May 9, 2017 23:15
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angryrobots posted:Why do you say that? when they installed it i got interested and read the specs on the front of it and it can only measure down to 500mA. that's a decent number of LEDs. well at least like half a dozen or something.
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May 10, 2017 03:43
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Bad Munki posted:If it were ethernet I could see that, but it's just coax, and while they had the entire house plumbed with cat5 for the phone system, none of it uses ethernet jacks (at least until I came along) so that is suuuuuuuuuuper unlikely. Cable modem with a wireless router (or combination cable modem/wifi router)? Kinda surprised they used a box at all though; coax plates are often installed with just a wall plate and a mud ring.
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May 10, 2017 18:36
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Yeah I'm guessing they just didn't know any other way.
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May 10, 2017 18:56
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Yu-Gi-Ho! posted:Kinda surprised they used a box at all though; coax plates are often installed with just a wall plate and a mud ring. My house had one that was literally just the plate screwed into the drywall. It was also a single continuous run of coax from the junction box straight into the house - it didn't even actually terminate at the wall, just came straight through it. 
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May 10, 2017 19:05
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IOwnCalculus posted:My house had one that was literally just the plate screwed into the drywall. It was also a single continuous run of coax from the junction box straight into the house - it didn't even actually terminate at the wall, just came straight through it. Time warner in our area just sends continuous runs right through the side of the house. No plates, no boxes, no caulk, no anything, just a hole with coax through it and 30 feet coiled up in the room. Needless to say I redid.
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May 10, 2017 19:17
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knowonecanknow posted:Time warner in our area just sends continuous runs right through the side of the house. No plates, no boxes, no caulk, no anything, just a hole with coax through it and 30 feet coiled up in the room. Needless to say I redid. Nice of them to leave you a service loop.
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May 10, 2017 19:46
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E: I am a retarded and posted this to the old thread. So I have this exhaust fan motor that I need to hookup to a three prong wire and I am totally confused about the wiring instructions. I want to do low voltage and I see that the purple wire is supposed to get connected to L1, the yellow to L2, and the blue one to INS. Does that mean purple to black, yellow to green, blue to white? If I gently caress up the wiring will I burn down the building? I don't want to use a switch and just turn it off and on directly from the fuse box. Any help would be appreciated. https://imgur.com/a/MpdDC
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May 16, 2017 13:31
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If you're hooking it up low-voltage (115v) then white, red and yellow all hook up to L2 according the the plate. Follow the plate diagram: Pur to L1(black on cord), blu and org to eachother, brn and blk to eachother, and wht red and yel to L2, the white wire on your cord. Oh, and the green on the cord goes to the ground screw in the motor wiring compartment. The plate also says that this is for clockwise rotation looking at the shaft end, so follow the plate if you want rotation reversed. Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 14:18 on May 16, 2017 |
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May 16, 2017 14:01
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Blackbeer posted:If you're hooking it up low-voltage (115v) then white, red and yellow all hook up to L2 according the the plate. Follow the plate diagram: Pur to L1(black on cord), blu and org to eachother, brn and blk to eachother, and wht red and yel to L2, the white wire on your cord. Ah, I see but one of the things that is confusing me are all the extra colors because there are only those three wires (purple, blue, yellow) coming out of the motor. So, purple to black L1 and yellow to white L2. Green on the cord to the ground screw on the motor. Blue and orange to each other but there is no orange? No brown, black, white, red, orange wires on the motor that I see. Am I just blind and there should be extra wires? E: Actually if I wired it like that it would be high voltage. This is giving me a headache. dad on the rag fucked around with this message at 14:47 on May 16, 2017 |
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May 16, 2017 14:37
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I just got back from vacation and the house/dog sitters (my inlaws) reported that the vent fan/bathroom light combo started making a god awful racket. I turned it on and it sounds like a bearing was thrown in the fan, and it's been running like this for several days so I think I need a replacement. All good, except it seems that new fan combos are wired on separate switches? I have a single low voltage relay switch which turns the 120V on and off up at the fan itself (there's no line voltage in the walls near the switch). Any suggestions on what I can do?
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May 16, 2017 20:58
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Drape Culture posted:All good, except it seems that new fan combos are wired on separate switches? I have a single low voltage relay switch which turns the 120V on and off up at the fan itself (there's no line voltage in the walls near the switch). Any suggestions on what I can do? Pretty sure the Panasonic fan you're going to buy comes with instructions to wire the hots together so it functions on a single switch. Is the relay integrated into your existing fan or is there an external power supply? You can generally download the installation instructions right off homedepot.com or the manufacturer website to check that this is a thing you can do with a given fan.
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May 16, 2017 21:43
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H110Hawk posted:Is the relay integrated into your existing fan or is there an external power supply? It's an old (1960s) remcom low voltage system. There's a relay that turns the circuit on and off somewhere, I don't know where exactly, but the switch legs are 22ga wires that control the relay. Everything else is normal.
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May 16, 2017 22:42
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Attach both the fan and light wires to the relay.
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May 16, 2017 22:52
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dad on the rag posted:Ah, I see but one of the things that is confusing me are all the extra colors because there are only those three wires (purple, blue, yellow) coming out of the motor. So, purple to black L1 and yellow to white L2. Green on the cord to the ground screw on the motor. Blue and orange to each other but there is no orange? No brown, black, white, red, orange wires on the motor that I see. Am I just blind and there should be extra wires? There should be more wires -- at least six. Hope for seven. To be honest, I've never seen a 7-lead single-phase dual-voltage motor. I'm trying to wrap my head around how the windings are, internally.
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May 16, 2017 23:09
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dad on the rag posted:Ah, I see but one of the things that is confusing me are all the extra colors because there are only those three wires (purple, blue, yellow) coming out of the motor. So, purple to black L1 and yellow to white L2. Green on the cord to the ground screw on the motor. Blue and orange to each other but there is no orange? No brown, black, white, red, orange wires on the motor that I see. Am I just blind and there should be extra wires? It's hard to tell from the first pic what's going on, can you take a pic of the open wiring compartment? Blackbeer fucked around with this message at 02:55 on May 17, 2017 |
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May 17, 2017 02:50
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Blackbeer posted:It's hard to tell from the first pic what's going on, can you take a pic of the open wiring compartment? Yeah somebody came by and did it for me while I was out. He opened up the wiring compartment and did his thing there and closed it back up. Seems to be working fine now. I'll let you guys know if I get blown up.
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May 17, 2017 05:53
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Had a junction box in the basement of my rental that I fixed tonight. It was hanging by the old romex. Every time I bumped it, it'd make my basement lights flash. There were 3 junctions in it. When I removed the cover, I noticed there were only 1.5 wire caps in there. One junction, the main hot, was just hoping and praying. And rubbing. They're all capped now and properly closed up. At least they switched the hot side.
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May 17, 2017 06:19
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dad on the rag posted:Yeah somebody came by and did it for me while I was out. He opened up the wiring compartment and did his thing there and closed it back up. Seems to be working fine now. I'll let you guys know if I get blown up. Well, because the rest of us are curious, could you still open up the wiring compartment, take a picture of what he did, and post it?
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May 17, 2017 11:35
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babyeatingpsychopath posted:Well, because the rest of us are curious, could you still open up the wiring compartment, take a picture of what he did, and post it? I don't want to do it because it's near the ceiling and would require me to get a ladder and take off part of the mounting thing. It's a Dayton 10E042 exhaust fan and the guy who was there during installation told me that all the other missing colored cables were in that wiring box. https://imgur.com/a/WdU3H Not the same but I was told it was similar to the pic I linked. https://www.grainger.com/product/DAYTON-22-x-22-115-230VACV-Industrial-10E042 The exhaust fan to which the motor is attached.
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May 17, 2017 13:20
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i'm not expecting a detailed quote from the wiring thread but i had a question about how involved something might be i'm looking to run power (just one 15A circuit, but if it's a big job i might run more) to my shed, which is wood frame on a slab, appears to be built properly, and is about 12 feet from the nearest corner of my house. it looks like the previous owners were thinking about it since there's a couple junction boxes in the shed (but no wiring of any kind, either to it or inside.) the shed is also about 15 feet from an outdoor outlet that i'm not all that attached to having. i'm guessing they'll have to bury it and i'd prefer if it was actually done correctly. will this be relatively easy for someone in the house-not-burning-down business to do? or will i need a sub panel in the shed (it's only like 12x12') or some nonsense? i'm resisting the urge to halfass it despite how incredibly easy it would be.
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May 18, 2017 03:15
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Ehh, just put in the sub panel. If you're running wire, do it right. Then if you want, you can throw a circuit for a welder in there, or who knows what the heck else. I'm generally of the opinion that if you're going to the trouble of burying line, you might as well do your best to future-proof it against your own changing needs.
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May 18, 2017 03:17
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Bad Munki posted:Ehh, just put in the sub panel. If you're running wire, do it right. Then if you want, you can throw a circuit for a welder in there, or who knows what the heck else. I'm generally of the opinion that if you're going to the trouble of burying line, you might as well do your best to future-proof it against your own changing needs. that's fair. i'm guessing the cost isn't the end of the world, panels ain't that expensive. would they do that for 1 or 2 fifteen amp breakers though? i can't afford a huge amount of additional power, i only have 100 amp service, welders probably aren't gonna be a thing. that's why i was hoping to use the circuit for the existing outdoor outlet.
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May 18, 2017 03:21
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I honestly don't know code well enough to say if you can run a detached building off a circuit without a panel inside that building. But, if that IS allowed, I would at LEAST say over-spec the wiring a few levels. 15A only requires 14awg, but man, at least run like 10 or 8, that way if you do decide to run a beefier circuit for the shed later, you won't have to re-bury. I think 8awg is good for, like, 50A? Or maybe 6awg for 50A. I can't remember. Either way, fairly heavily over-spec. As for "would they do that," I mean, sure, they'll put in a sub panel for NO breakers if that's what you want to pay them for. They'll just put it in and leave it blank if you only pay them to go that far. Do they HAVE to? Someone else will have to answer that. Would *I* do that, put in a sub panel in a detached shed for just a couple small breakers? You betcha.
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May 18, 2017 03:32
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Bad Munki posted:I honestly don't know code well enough to say if you can run a detached building off a circuit without a panel inside that building. But, if that IS allowed, I would at LEAST say over-spec the wiring a few levels. 15A only requires 14awg, but man, at least run like 10 or 8, that way if you do decide to run a beefier circuit for the shed later, you won't have to re-bury. I think 8awg is good for, like, 50A? Or maybe 6awg for 50A. I can't remember. Either way, fairly heavily over-spec. oh yeah luckily i'm a weirdo who uses the most massive wire gauge i can feasibly use. i think every extension cord in my house is 12/3 (i used to work in a cable shop)
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May 18, 2017 03:36
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If you're interested in doing so, I'm sure you can do all this yourself, just as a heads up. You'll want to make sure you're doing it right, as you said, but that's pretty straight forward. If you're concerned about doing it right, the easiest first step is to call your county inspector and say something along the lines of, "Hey, I'm running power to my detached shed, and I just want to make sure I'm doing this right, so I have a couple questions." That way, you're getting guidance from the exact person who would be checking off the work in the end. They really really really don't mind that sort of interaction. They will happily provide guidance if it's clear you're trying to work with them. They can definitely tell you if you are required to put in a sub, if you can run off the existing circuit, etc. according to the rules specific to your area.
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May 18, 2017 03:43
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SoundMonkey posted:i'm not expecting a detailed quote from the wiring thread but i had a question about how involved something might be The advantage of subpanels is that they let you run one big cable out to the outbuilding instead of a bunch of smaller ones if you're planning on doing some big number of circuits inside this tiny shed. That being said, you can run the one big cable out there for now and use it as 1 or 2 regular circuits, without the subpanel. Honestly, the hardest parts of this will be digging out the trench and penetrating your house and shed. Look up the minimum bury depths for UF cable. You'll also need to protect this cable with conduit and elbows where it's exposed above ground, down to a depth I'm forgetting at the moment. I want to say 18"? Get a tube of caulk too to weather seal those holes in your house and shed. edit: I'd run at least 10/3 cable for now with a tandem breaker at your main panel. That way you can use your cable as 2 separate circuits with a shared neutral, yet have the option of running a welder out there in the future. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 17:17 on May 18, 2017 |
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May 18, 2017 17:12
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kid sinister posted:Honestly, the hardest parts of this will be digging out the trench and penetrating your house and shed. Look up the minimum bury depths for UF cable. You'll also need to protect this cable with conduit and elbows where it's exposed above ground, down to a depth I'm forgetting at the moment. I want to say 18"? Get a tube of caulk too to weather seal those holes in your house and shed. If I recall correctly, direct burial of cable is 24", if it's in PVC conduit it's 18", RMC conduit is 12". I suppose it could vary depending on where you are though; those numbers are what I remember for my installation in California.
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May 18, 2017 17:15
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Due to code, the subpanel in our new place has had to be moved from our utility room into my bloody lounge. How do these things tend to look when they've been painted over? In an ideal world, I'd hang a painting or something over it, but it's on the wall where the TV goes and the TV is likely to cover a small section of it anyway so it would look odd to hang something there I think. I'm pretty pissed with the sellers as they had to have known this. And also looks like they did something to rig the fridge so it wouldn't show an error code on the door when the inspection was done. Oh the list of 'ugh's I've put together in this last few weeks based on how the property was left compared to how it should've been left...
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May 19, 2017 00:14
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EL BROMANCE posted:Due to code, the subpanel in our new place has had to be moved from our utility room into my bloody lounge. How do these things tend to look when they've been painted over? In an ideal world, I'd hang a painting or something over it, but it's on the wall where the TV goes and the TV is likely to cover a small section of it anyway so it would look odd to hang something there I think. You can't legally hide the panel, it needs 36" clearance in front. That said, it's not like you'll be having the inspector over to watch movies. If you paint it you'll probably barely notice it.
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May 19, 2017 00:19
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If you do paint the panel, just be sure to actually take the face off the wall and take it apart down to its basic components. Painting it while assembled is going to lead to a poo poo paint job and hinges/latches gummed up with paint, which will tear and peel the paint the first time you open it.
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May 19, 2017 00:25
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Mimesweeper posted:You can't legally hide the panel, it needs 36" clearance in front. That said, it's not like you'll be having the inspector over to watch movies. If you paint it you'll probably barely notice it. Yeah, the inspector has already been at least (and has to come back because he doesn't like that the smoke alarms aren't the type that use some 10 year battery or something, so more money shitted away over nothing...), and wouldn't want to hide it too well in case of emergency and not us being the ones there to deal with it. Bad Munki posted:If you do paint the panel, just be sure to actually take the face off the wall and take it apart down to its basic components. Painting it while assembled is going to lead to a poo poo paint job and hinges/latches gummed up with paint, which will tear and peel the paint the first time you open it. We've already got a credit for some plastering/paint work that needs to be done, so going to lump this wall in with that. It's a bit scruffy anyway, so it's a good excuse and our realtor says he has some good painters available. Will definitely make sure they approach this properly though rather than just painting it while it's up there, thanks.
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May 19, 2017 01:02
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EL BROMANCE posted:Yeah, the inspector has already been at least (and has to come back because he doesn't like that the smoke alarms aren't the type that use some 10 year battery or something, so more money shitted away over nothing...), and wouldn't want to hide it too well in case of emergency and not us being the ones there to deal with it. I'm sympathetic to the problem of having to spend more money than you expected to, but most people appreciate not burning to death. For that matter, there are plenty of good reasons for why panels are supposed to be accessible and not-disguised.
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May 19, 2017 01:51
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EL BROMANCE posted:Yeah, the inspector has already been at least (and has to come back because he doesn't like that the smoke alarms aren't the type that use some 10 year battery or something, so more money shitted away over nothing...), and wouldn't want to hide it too well in case of emergency and not us being the ones there to deal with it. yeah my inspector had a thing about how battery powered smoke alarms aren't considered reliable smoke alarms and therefore are considered not to exist i mean i take his point but you'd think working in a power failure would offset that a bit i'll have to look up how true that particular opinion is but my insurance is a-ok with them
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May 19, 2017 02:09
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm sympathetic to the problem of having to spend more money than you expected to, but most people appreciate not burning to death. For that matter, there are plenty of good reasons for why panels are supposed to be accessible and not-disguised. It was like $200 to replace them, so it's not really a big deal money wise and I'd like the peace of mind. I'm pretty sure the units being replaced were only a few years old though, and the new ones aren't wired in or anything so it just seems like money spent for no real difference to be honest. Even my electrician (who did a great job and worth every penny of the many pennies it cost) didn't really understand the issue with them. Yeah, covering the panel isn't really the aim... it's more "not having an ugly as gently caress grey piece of metal in my lounge". I know code is written up for good reason, but the old location was so perfect for it but someone installed a water heater too close so it had to be moved. SoundMonkey posted:yeah my inspector had a thing about how battery powered smoke alarms aren't considered reliable smoke alarms and therefore are considered not to exist I'm just hoping my insurance company will do such a lovely jig that I've gotten rid of the Stab Lok panel.
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May 19, 2017 02:47
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SoundMonkey posted:i mean i take his point but you'd think working in a power failure would offset that a bit The wired-in ones also have a battery backup.
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May 19, 2017 03:21
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