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NPR Journalizard
Feb 14, 2008

Javid posted:

I mainly deal with softwoods like fir and cedar. Current workflow is plane, rout corners, single pass with an orbital at 100, then stain & urethane, or paint.

I guess I'm looking for some kind of machine I can feed a board through like the planer that will sand it for me. Having never used a thickness sander, I just wanna know if it'll produce a finishable surface or not, given that 100 grit is as high as I go anyway.

Having never used a thickness sander before, I would assume that the main difference will be that a thickness sander is going to get a more consistent thickness, but all the sanding lines will be going the same way. If thats not an issue, and you are sanding to your final grit anyway, why not?

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Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
The Dewalt planer even at the higher speed leaves a surface that is pretty much finish ready. You need dust collection for it, but it's an incredible bang/buck.

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

E: ^ this is also very true.

Javid posted:

I mainly deal with softwoods like fir and cedar. Current workflow is plane, rout corners, single pass with an orbital at 100, then stain & urethane, or paint.

I guess I'm looking for some kind of machine I can feed a board through like the planer that will sand it for me. Having never used a thickness sander, I just wanna know if it'll produce a finishable surface or not, given that 100 grit is as high as I go anyway.

Well in that case it's probably exactly what you're looking for. Grizzly even makes a small drum sander that is relatively inexpensive, particularly if you're only sending boards through and don't need width for entire face frames/etc.

E: http://www.grizzly.com/products/12-Baby-Drum-Sander/G0459

Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 05:48 on May 27, 2017

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

Phone posted:

The Dewalt planer even at the higher speed leaves a surface that is pretty much finish ready. You need dust collection for it, but it's an incredible bang/buck.

The only hangup I have with finishing directly off the planer (which is the one you're thinking of) is that home depot leaves staples and poo poo in these boards and they will, whenever I miss pulling one, gently caress up the blades and give me these big raised streaks down every board that have to be sanded out. I can't have it down for the week+ the local sharpening place takes right now, so I have to deal with that for the immediate future.

My first choice would be "buy lumber that isn't dogshit" but I don't hold the purse strings for this operation. Owner will buy tools I ask for but not take a day out of production to visit every lumber yard around here and find a better source than HD, and it continually infuriates me.

That sander looks almost exactly like what I was imagining, thanks.

Meow Meow Meow
Nov 13, 2010
The knives in the dewalt can shift left to right, so if you get a knick in all three blades you can shift them to offset the knick and make it disappear from the wood. Also, the knives are disposable so what are you doing sending them to s sharpening place? Chuck em out and put new ones in. Or get two sets of blades so you have a spare if you do insist on sending them for sharpening.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Javid posted:

I mainly deal with softwoods like fir and cedar. Current workflow is plane, rout corners, single pass with an orbital at 100, then stain & urethane, or paint.

I guess I'm looking for some kind of machine I can feed a board through like the planer that will sand it for me. Having never used a thickness sander, I just wanna know if it'll produce a finishable surface or not, given that 100 grit is as high as I go anyway.

To my experience those softwoods tend to have sappy residue that would gum up a belt sander PDQ. I'd go with the planer options

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:
A sharpening costs $39 for the set. Cheapest I could find them when I looked originally (a year ago) was $80ish.

NOW I'm seeing them for $46 on amazon which is a much better deal. The shifting thing I didn't know so I'll try that next.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。

quote:

Why not raise prices?
Truth is, we are going to have to raise prices on the dividers. Not to reduce demand but simply to make them something that’s worth getting up for in the morning. Because the dividers are more expensive and tricky to produce than we could have ever anticipated, we will raise the price significantly in the coming months. More details on this soon.

The price on the holdfasts and Design Curves will likely remain the same. We’ve had no problem keeping up with demand for the holdfasts. And the curves are much simpler to make than the dividers.

The good news is that we are getting faster and better at making tools and putting them in boxes. And we have no plans to quit or slow down. So if you can stick with us as we grow this young business, I think you’ll end up with a number of Crucible tools in your chest, cabinet or tool tote.

Boo.

So mad at myself for not setting an alarm for Thursday.

Tres Burritos
Sep 3, 2009

Those things were like $135. I totally don't get the appeal. Unless it's like a woodworker bling status symbol thing.

edit: went looking for a review and the first one I found with a quick google is here. I'll stick with my cheap stuff.

Tres Burritos fucked around with this message at 21:23 on May 27, 2017

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
I love the people who are near militant about not having nice things.

Yes they are expensive, they are also nice, some people can afford and want nice things. The fact that they do this, and then talk about it, is not a personal affront or poor-shaming.

I'm not saying you are doing this, tres burritos, but it is really common in many hobbies and it is especially prevalent in the woodworking world.

Tres Burritos
Sep 3, 2009

Ahhh naw, I just looked at the price and was like, "Am I missing something here?" but it just does what it says on the box and looks real nice. Which is cool, but I like to stay at a certain spot on the bang/buck curve.

I also don't think I can handle the worry factor that comes with super nice tools like that. I get paranoid about the Veritas planes I bought getting roughed up whereas it's pretty nice to throw around a cheap stanley plane and not fret.

However when you do gently caress up the little parts on Veritas planes they generally have replacement parts in stock and they ship pretty quick. (Ask me about dropping a smoothing plane onto a concrete floor).

edit: also I hosed up the chipbreaker on the jointer

Tres Burritos fucked around with this message at 22:03 on May 27, 2017

Tim Thomas
Feb 12, 2008
breakdancin the night away
I made a bench that is somewhat like the one that Tommy Mac built a while back, less the neat coves because doing coves on the table saw is mind bending to me and doesn't fit the look of the room this is going in. Every angle is compound 10/10 which made it kind of challenging to clamp. Fun two day project, though.

I forgot how much I like working with cherry, just put it together, sand to 220, and feed oil until it looks right.

coathat
May 21, 2007

I'm fixing up my great granddad's no.2 plane and man is it tiny and awkward to hold.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Long grain shenanigans-

One of the canes i'd made for my elderly dad had the head break- perils of short grain construction, even if it is a dense hardwood (jatoba). I'd thought it was remedied by using a long drywall screw right through the handle as a reinforcement. That was not fixable since there's no good way to extract a 3 1/2" screw. i had a head piece from another one I'd made at the same time so I decided to glue it to the original shaft. Because of the crook in the shaft, i was able to cheat a long grain scarf-type joint. But I didn't like the way the grain matched up, even though it was the same color, so I decided to accentuate the difference with a splice of striped maple.




I was able to get the cut using a miter saw, but, gluing up something on a slant like that is easier visualized than done. So creative clampery was required. I glued and clamped one joint at a time, and each one failed the first time due to the pieces slipping out of position and me having to reset them (I think that compromises the strength even if the glue is still sticky)
Finally got the desired glue-ups, tested for strength and durability, and finished up with minwax stain/sealer.



ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

coathat posted:

I'm fixing up my great granddad's no.2 plane and man is it tiny and awkward to hold.

Is it an old Stanley? Those sell for silly money and I can't imagine a real world use for one.

coathat
May 21, 2007

It's a Marsh so I figure it's nowhere near as valuable. Plus it's like one of like 5 things that survived the house fire they had in the 50s.

n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.
Grimey Drawer


Decided to build a plywood pirogue on a whim. Been picking at it little by little as I have time since Saturday, and got to the point today after gluing the stems that it's starting to actually look like a boat.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

I wrote a blog post of mini-reviews of the various woodworking media I follow or have read (books, podcasts, magazines, videos, blogs). Don't worry, Chris Schwarz doesn't turn up till like 1/3 of the way through the article.

Happy for suggestions of other stuff to read if anyone has any.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

I got my Delta table saw set up this weekend. I bought a Leecraft zero-clearance insert for it, and man that thing is excellent. Six screws that fit very tightly into their screwholes for fine adjustment of level and fitment and I got it perfectly snug. It's much better than the OEM steel non-zero-clearance insert the table came with, in terms of fitment.

Then I installed a Microjig MJ Splitter setup, since my table didn't come with a splitter or riving knife and the aftermarket options for those seem to be pretty crap. I got the blue ones to fit my regular 1/8" kerf saw blades - the saw came with one and I had two others, so I don't think I'll be needing to buy a narrow-kerf blade any time soon (if I do, I'll need another ZCI in order to set it up for the MJ Splitters).

The template thingy the splitter came with worked pretty well, the instructions weren't very hard to follow, took me about an hour to do it mostly because I was being really ginger and careful since I'm not familiar with my saw yet. I did shatter the included drill bit on the last hole I was drilling through the ZCI, because I hit a metal bracket down inside the saw with the tip. No important damage was done, but I should have put a block of wood under the ZCI before drilling.

Has anyone else used these?

Microjig really pushes their Grr-Ripper thing a lot but my impression is that it's not really a safe thing to use, because it requires you to pass your hand and arm over the moving blade. Even with that big block between you and the blade for safety, after you pass over the blade you're pushing down and forward with your bare forearm over the blade. I think I'm gonna stick with push sticks and a featherboard. Seem reasonable?

Oh yeah I also got a magnetic featherboard, the Magswitch. It's really cool, seems very secure on my cast iron table.

Now I just need some wood and a first project. I've got longer-term plans for a TV stand/cabinet thing, some shelves, my wife says I should build us a queen-sized bed to replace our IKEA full-size, but I want to start with something a bit smaller and that will let me learn some joinery skills. Maybe a lidded box or a cutting board or something?


e.
photos!

DSC_0005.jpg

DSC_0004.jpg

DSC_0006.jpg

Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jun 1, 2017

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Magswitch featherboards are amazing. I never used my miter slot style featherboard, but I'll use the magswitch anytime it seems helpful. Easily one of my favorite tablesaw accessories.


The GRR-rip is mostly dumb. They make really good pushblocks for the router table and jointer called the GRR-rip smart hook (something like that, anyways), but I agree about them not having a place on the tablesaw.


e:

Tim Thomas posted:

I made a bench that is somewhat like the one that Tommy Mac built a while back, less the neat coves because doing coves on the table saw is mind bending to me and doesn't fit the look of the room this is going in. Every angle is compound 10/10 which made it kind of challenging to clamp. Fun two day project, though.

I forgot how much I like working with cherry, just put it together, sand to 220, and feed oil until it looks right.



That looks really nice and clean. Cherry is so nice to work with.

Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 02:55 on Jun 1, 2017

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

ColdPie posted:

I wrote a blog post of mini-reviews of the various woodworking media I follow or have read (books, podcasts, magazines, videos, blogs). Don't worry, Chris Schwarz doesn't turn up till like 1/3 of the way through the article.

Happy for suggestions of other stuff to read if anyone has any.

This is a good post and should be in the op.

My only suggestion would be including this book

mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255

Leperflesh posted:

I got my Delta table saw set up this weekend. I bought a Leecraft zero-clearance insert for it, and man that thing is excellent. Six screws that fit very tightly into their screwholes for fine adjustment of level and fitment and I got it perfectly snug. It's much better than the OEM steel non-zero-clearance insert the table came with, in terms of fitment.

Then I installed a Microjig MJ Splitter setup, since my table didn't come with a splitter or riving knife and the aftermarket options for those seem to be pretty crap. I got the blue ones to fit my regular 1/8" kerf saw blades - the saw came with one and I had two others, so I don't think I'll be needing to buy a narrow-kerf blade any time soon (if I do, I'll need another ZCI in order to set it up for the MJ Splitters).

The template thingy the splitter came with worked pretty well, the instructions weren't very hard to follow, took me about an hour to do it mostly because I was being really ginger and careful since I'm not familiar with my saw yet. I did shatter the included drill bit on the last hole I was drilling through the ZCI, because I hit a metal bracket down inside the saw with the tip. No important damage was done, but I should have put a block of wood under the ZCI before drilling.

Has anyone else used these?

Microjig really pushes their Grr-Ripper thing a lot but my impression is that it's not really a safe thing to use, because it requires you to pass your hand and arm over the moving blade. Even with that big block between you and the blade for safety, after you pass over the blade you're pushing down and forward with your bare forearm over the blade. I think I'm gonna stick with push sticks and a featherboard. Seem reasonable?

Oh yeah I also got a magnetic featherboard, the Magswitch. It's really cool, seems very secure on my cast iron table.

Now I just need some wood and a first project. I've got longer-term plans for a TV stand/cabinet thing, some shelves, my wife says I should build us a queen-sized bed to replace our IKEA full-size, but I want to start with something a bit smaller and that will let me learn some joinery skills. Maybe a lidded box or a cutting board or something?


e.
photos!

DSC_0005.jpg

DSC_0004.jpg

DSC_0006.jpg

Kick rear end saw. I've never installed a splitter but you are absolutely dead wrong about the GRrrrrrrr-ipper. I honestly dont use my table saw without it. My opinion is everyone should use one.

ColdPie
Jun 9, 2006

GEMorris posted:

This is a good post and should be in the op.

My only suggestion would be including this book

I have been wanting to read that book!

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!
In case you haven't read today's blog post on Lost Art Press, Schwarz talks about this article which is definitely worth a read.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Hypnolobster posted:

The GRR-rip is mostly dumb. They make really good pushblocks for the router table and jointer called the GRR-rip smart hook (something like that, anyways), but I agree about them not having a place on the tablesaw.

mds2 posted:

you are absolutely dead wrong about the GRrrrrrrr-ipper. I honestly dont use my table saw without it. My opinion is everyone should use one.

The two of you must fight to the death so I can decide what to do

Spring Heeled Jack
Feb 25, 2007

If you can read this you can read
I finally got to go the Lie-Nielsen showroom today, highly recommend it if you're ever in the area.

Tres Burritos
Sep 3, 2009

I'm kinda not liking the dovetail saw I've got and I've been toying with the idea of making a frame saw. Bad idea? If not, is there a recommended place to buy blades?

Hypnolobster
Apr 12, 2007

What this sausage party needs is a big dollop of ketchup! Too bad I didn't make any. :(

Leperflesh posted:

The two of you must fight to the death so I can decide what to do

With tablesaw safety accessories as weapons? I've definitely got the reach advantage.

uwaeve
Oct 21, 2010



focus this time so i don't have to keep telling you idiots what happened
Lipstick Apathy
Long shot, but does anyone have preferred lumber yards in the Boston-Nashua area? Looking for KDAT 5/4x6 radius-edged decking, and figured I'd ask here before blindly calling everyone. The few places I've used before, I got blank looks when asking about dried treated lumber.

I realize it's not about actual woodworking, maybe there's no crossover between hardwood suppliers and what I'm looking for but I figure you guys sometimes have to buy pleb stuff like regular ol' lumber.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

uwaeve posted:

Long shot, but does anyone have preferred lumber yards in the Boston-Nashua area? Looking for KDAT 5/4x6 radius-edged decking, and figured I'd ask here before blindly calling everyone. The few places I've used before, I got blank looks when asking about dried treated lumber.

I have zero knowledge about your specific area, but try contacting construction supply stores instead of lumberyards.

mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255

Hypnolobster posted:

With tablesaw safety accessories as weapons? I've definitely got the reach advantage.

Ahem:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AalvZKdQzSQ

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.

GEMorris posted:

In case you haven't read today's blog post on Lost Art Press, Schwarz talks about this article which is definitely worth a read.

Here they are, words that perfectly capture why it's impossible to read Lost Art Press and not want to slap them upside their heads:

quote:

Both Underhill and Schwartz come at woodworking from a perspective that goes beyond the usual technical detail. To them craft is a moral issue, even a political issue.

quote:

Since crafts people have to make a living building something like a chair a week, if they are quick, that sort of production will never be democratically available. It is cost prohibitive for all but the wealthy, and always will be.

Last Art Press: well-off people making expensive products for other well-off people, assigning superior moral value to a time that was objectively worse and more exploitative than what we have today.

edit: another favourite part:

quote:

The translation captures the eighteenth-century flavor of Roubo’s prose, but with bracketed explanations when the precise translation of the French has a more generally accepted technical term in the modern American woodworker’s parlance (the pins and tails of a dovetail joint, for instance).

Literal CliffsNotes annotations to make the book comprehensible. Who the gently caress is this book for? JFC.

Trabant fucked around with this message at 16:27 on Jun 2, 2017

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
Not you apparently.

One Legged Ninja
Sep 19, 2007
Feared by shoe salesmen. Defeated by chest-high walls.
Fun Shoe

Trabant posted:

Who the gently caress is this book for? JFC.

People who like to read nicely made books, and also like to make things from wood? :shrug:

I'm pretty sure Jesus doesn't need a book on woodworking.

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

Trabant posted:

Literal CliffsNotes annotations to make the book comprehensible. Who the gently caress is this book for? JFC.

Right, so you've not read it.

You're an idiot. The time it would take to explain to you why you are an idiot and that you lack any reading comprehension skills at all is simply not worth the expenditure.

Trabant
Nov 26, 2011

All systems nominal.
Ah, found the person pretentious enough to buy a book that needs translations of translations!

Roctor
Aug 23, 2005

The doctor of rock.
you guys ever notice that sometimes people on the internet argue about things that don't matter

GEMorris
Aug 28, 2002

Glory To the Order!

Trabant posted:

Ah, found the person pretentious enough to buy a book that needs translations of translations!

Wait, do you like hate the concept of knowledge or something?

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



GEMorris posted:

Wait, do you like hate the concept of knowledge or something?

more importantly, where's Wormil to weigh in on this? He hasn't posted for months it seems, and I'm a bit worried about him.

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Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Roctor posted:

you guys ever notice that sometimes people on the internet argue about things that don't matter

no they don't

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