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Meow Meow Meow posted:I just finished these curved front wall cabinets. Both have cherry carcasses, one had a crotch walnut front and the other quilted maple. These were way more work and took me way longer than I was expecting, so many drat glue ups and not to mention the challenges of working with curved doors and drawers. I'm glad they're done now and happy with how they turned out, not perfect but I learned a lot for future curved projects. Yeah, those look fantastic.
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Aug 26, 2017 05:31
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Super nice. Where did you get the hardware from? Unrelated, if anyone wants either or both of these stickers, throw me a PM and I'll chuck 'em in the mail for you. 
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Aug 26, 2017 16:24
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Thanks guys. The hinges are Brusso double offset knife hinges which I got from Lee Valley, knobs I turned on my lathe.
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Aug 26, 2017 17:30
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I bought a dozen vintage half round Nicholson files and decided to finally make a handle for one. Its made from some silver maple I got from a neighbor.
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Aug 27, 2017 00:24
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Can anyone point me toward good hardware like on this box that will hold up well to the weather. I want to build something similar for my truck for camping. I was thinking about making it out of good plywood and painting it with some good outdoor paint.
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Aug 27, 2017 02:43
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Anybody able to comment on the 2 gallon Husky air compressors? It's the perfect size for my workspace, just not sure if the quality is there. vvvv Just a brad nailer and to spray dust off work pieces. Spazz fucked around with this message at 21:50 on Aug 27, 2017 |
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Aug 27, 2017 17:06
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Spazz posted:Anybody able to comment on the 2 gallon Husky air compressors? It's the perfect size for my workspace, just not sure if the quality is there. What tools do you want to run on it?
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Aug 27, 2017 17:14
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I think the search term you want is road case. http://www.diyroadcasesstore.com/ cool beard http://www.reliablehardware.com/
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Aug 27, 2017 19:43
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Spazz posted:Anybody able to comment on the 2 gallon Husky air compressors? It's the perfect size for my workspace, just not sure if the quality is there. The answer is pretty much always California Air Tools on small compressors. They a much quieter than most in their size and price range.
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Aug 27, 2017 22:20
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DreadLlama posted:
If it spits electrons then it's a beta source. Betas are just high energy electrons (high is a relative term, Tritium decay produces pretty low energy electrons as far as beta decay goes).
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Aug 27, 2017 22:49
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bred posted:I think the search term you want is road case. Thanks.
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Aug 27, 2017 23:26
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Lee Valley free shipping is on  I've been waiting months to place a big order.
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Aug 30, 2017 03:25
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Bought some wood today, don't really know where to put everything. Need to organize my lumber racks now. Two large boards of european oak and smaller boards of more oak, beech, ash and arctic silver birch. Never had this much hardwood.  
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Aug 31, 2017 17:16
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For a complete newbie to woodworking what marking tools would be recommended from Lee Valley while there's free shipping?
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Aug 31, 2017 18:03
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What do you have now, what do you think you might need for your next projects? Are you primarily hand tools or power tools focused?
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Aug 31, 2017 19:27
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Quick question... if I do a proper side by side glue up using clamps etc... should that ultimately survive jig sawing?
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Aug 31, 2017 19:31
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Feenix posted:Quick question... if I do a proper side by side glue up using clamps etc... should that ultimately survive jig sawing? The bond of properly applied and set wood glue is stronger than the natural bond between the wood fibers. Yes it will hold up.
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Aug 31, 2017 19:44
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Maksimus54 posted:For a complete newbie to woodworking what marking tools would be recommended from Lee Valley while there's free shipping? GEMorris's question is a good one, but regardless I like the striking knife and the marking gauge. http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/Page.aspx?p=69870&cat=1,42936,42949 http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=59455
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Aug 31, 2017 19:48
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nielsm posted:The bond of properly applied and set wood glue is stronger than the natural bond between the wood fibers. Yes it will hold up. Thank you sir or madam. 
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Aug 31, 2017 21:42
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GEMorris posted:What do you have now, what do you think you might need for your next projects? Are you primarily hand tools or power tools focused? I have an odd table saw(Ryobi BT3000), Jig saw, some clamps, a couple old hand saws, craftsman chisels, belt/disc sander, and a bunch of other misc. tools I've liberated from my dads garage. Really I want to know what I should be looking for in measuring/marking tools because what I have for those are larger general construction grade equipment. Project wise I wanted to practice some mortise and tenon joints because I'd like to build a workbench someday and I have some scrap lumber laying around that isn't doing me any good.
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Aug 31, 2017 21:58
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Maksimus54 posted:I have an odd table saw(Ryobi BT3000), Jig saw, some clamps, a couple old hand saws, craftsman chisels, belt/disc sander, and a bunch of other misc. tools I've liberated from my dads garage. Really I want to know what I should be looking for in measuring/marking tools because what I have for those are larger general construction grade equipment. Project wise I wanted to practice some mortise and tenon joints because I'd like to build a workbench someday and I have some scrap lumber laying around that isn't doing me any good. Measuring and marking tools is def what I would recommend and Falcon2001's recommendations are good ones. I'd recommend getting a 12" combination square as well.
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Aug 31, 2017 22:34
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Falcon2001 posted:GEMorris's question is a good one, but regardless I like the striking knife and the marking gauge. Good stuff. I have their dual marking gauge. It's great, but honestly, I don't think it's worth the money over the single. I have some complaints about the knife, but it's good enough, and at $16 it's a great place to start. Also a couple decent pencils that are easy to keep sharp. I have a pair of Staedtler lead holders, but anything'll do. Depending on what you want to build, consider a pair of vintage dividers off eBay for a couple bucks.
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Aug 31, 2017 22:51
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Thanks for the suggestions! Are the graduated markings on the marking gauge ever used? Micro adjustments worth it? It's all of $8 difference but why buy more if it isn't used. Thanks for sharing your experience on the dual marking gauge, I was considering that as well.
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Sep 1, 2017 00:43
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I ended up replacing the blades on the dual marking gauge recently. On one hand it's good that they're replaceable, on the other they're kinda pricey, and also flimsy and I have no idea how I screwed them up so bad in the first place.
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Sep 1, 2017 00:59
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I've not used the micro adjust on the lv gauge as I have a tite mark, but I can say as a concept micro adjust is absolutely worth it.
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Sep 1, 2017 01:50
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Interesting little video showing how plywood is made. Intuitively I knew it was a matter of cutting veneers and gluing them together, but I wasn't expecting to see most of a tree get mounted to a lathe.
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Sep 1, 2017 02:14
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This may sound like a supremely dumb question but I'd love some pro strats in best ways to dump out orbital sander dust bins without literally covering your entire back yard and yourself in a fine, potentially dangerous dust. :/ Edit: holy poo poo I just got a shop vac a month or so ago and I didn't realize it came with an adapter for the vac. Noice! Feenix fucked around with this message at 04:31 on Sep 1, 2017 |
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Sep 1, 2017 04:29
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Feenix posted:This may sound like a supremely dumb question but I'd love some pro strats in best ways to dump out orbital sander dust bins without literally covering your entire back yard and yourself in a fine, potentially dangerous dust. :/ Occasionally I remember to wear a mask. Otherwise I use sawdust as mulch.
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Sep 1, 2017 12:40
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Feenix posted:This may sound like a supremely dumb question but I'd love some pro strats in best ways to dump out orbital sander dust bins without literally covering your entire back yard and yourself in a fine, potentially dangerous dust. :/ Trust me, get a separator for your shop vac, or you will be going through bags super quick. Mine cost me as much as a box of 3 bags, and since I have put it on, I havent had to change the bag once.
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Sep 1, 2017 13:44
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Are there any good videos out there on fitting mortise and tenon joints? I have a lot of trouble making all the shoulders nice and even all the way around, and I also have a tough time slimming down the tenon to fit without screwing it up.
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Sep 3, 2017 00:40
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Tres Burritos posted:Are there any good videos out there on fitting mortise and tenon joints? I have a lot of trouble making all the shoulders nice and even all the way around, and I also have a tough time slimming down the tenon to fit without screwing it up. By hand or by power tool? Hand is tricky, although one of the books I read said that you shouldn't try and creep up on it because it gets harder and harder to saw - saw confidently close and then call it good. By power tool? Creep up on it. :p
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Sep 3, 2017 01:56
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Falcon2001 posted:By hand or by power tool? Hand is tricky, although one of the books I read said that you shouldn't try and creep up on it because it gets harder and harder to saw - saw confidently close and then call it good. Hand. I just remembered this and it seems to make sense from a mechanical standpoint. We'll see how it goes.
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Sep 3, 2017 08:40
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Tres Burritos posted:Hand. I just remembered this and it seems to make sense from a mechanical standpoint. We'll see how it goes. That works, I usually use a shoulder plane for both the cheeks and the shoulders. Takes a bit of practice but it works quite well as you can take one or two shavings off then do a quick test.
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Sep 3, 2017 11:52
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Tres Burritos posted:Are there any good videos out there on fitting mortise and tenon joints? I have a lot of trouble making all the shoulders nice and even all the way around, and I also have a tough time slimming down the tenon to fit without screwing it up. It's tough. The less fiddling you have to do, the less chance to introduce error. For me, I sneak up on the fit with a rabbet plane. I think a shoulder plane is considered the "right" tool for the job, but I don't have one. As for getting square and even, it's a combination of the plane and chisels on both the tenon and mortise, checking with my square and testing the joint over and over and over and eventually just saying gently caress it good enough. I think I've only ever had one M&T joint where I walked away thinking I nailed it. I found The Essential Woodworker to be a really good, quick introduction to all the basic joinery techniques. The kind of stuff you'd learn in an intro to hand tool woodworking class. I've got a copy if you want to swing by and borrow it.
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Sep 3, 2017 14:16
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For tuning up the faces of a tenon I'd recommend using a router plane.
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Sep 3, 2017 17:04
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Update on tortoisehaus: The tortoises have happily/indifferently taken to their new digs. One of the tortoises attempted to burrow through the pine. There was no noticeable damage. The finger joints worked well.
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Sep 3, 2017 22:14
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Interesting little video showing how plywood is made. Intuitively I knew it was a matter of cutting veneers and gluing them together, but I wasn't expecting to see most of a tree get mounted to a lathe. Love how this video drives home the labor-destroying power of automation and Finland. (fuckin' Finns  )The combination of machine and hand labor is also neat to see, as is the extent to which the 1950s plant seems to rely on eyeballing things.
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Sep 3, 2017 22:24
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ColdPie posted:eventually just saying gently caress it good enough THATS THE ONE.  
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Sep 4, 2017 02:14
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I am a very bad wood worker and it's taken me over 15 hours to get to this point, but I have a shelf and some slides hopefully installed right and a single drawer installed. When I test fit a shelf it was too wide and pushed on the tracks, so I cut all the drawers down by 1/8" and now they're almost too tight in the tracks, pulling them. In hindsight I should have built a smaller shelf for practice. Smaller drawers, smaller everything. Just to get used to working with track slides and building drawers. Having 1/2" drawer bottoms was a mistake too, it makes everything so heavy. 3/4" ply frame, 1/2" back, 3/4" drawer sides and 1/2" drawer bottoms. lovely butt joints and poor screw work. In hindsight I would have still done the kreg jig butt joints but I'd have cut a slot around the bottom of the drawers for something 1/8" or so to just slip into. Baronjutter fucked around with this message at 22:38 on Sep 4, 2017 |
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Sep 4, 2017 22:36
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Baronjutter posted:I am a very bad wood worker and it's taken me over 15 hours to get to this point, but I have a shelf and some slides hopefully installed right and a single drawer installed. When I test fit a shelf it was too wide and pushed on the tracks, so I cut all the drawers down by 1/8" and now they're almost too tight in the tracks, pulling them. Can't you just shim the drawer slides to make it perfect?
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Sep 4, 2017 23:07
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