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tangy yet delightful posted:Wouldn't the inner bucket be sucked away from the outer bucket? Since its pulling a vacuum instead of being an expansive (right word?) force. When the bucket collapses on 3 sides, the 3 "corners" poke out farther than the original diameter of the bucket. The outer bucket would prevent those inner bucket corners from popping out, preventing the bucket from collapsing. Maybe? I don't know. Somebody just told me about it on the internet.
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Sep 12, 2017 19:15
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My little cyclone thing from amazon came with 2 buckets. I never figured out why and left them stacked together like they came. Mystery solved.
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Sep 12, 2017 21:49
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Using two buckets is what Oneida recommends and why they give you two. Plus one you drill holes in for the wheels.
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Sep 12, 2017 22:06
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ColdPie posted:In my experience, a bucket inside another bucket is one of humanity's most powerful sources of vacuum. Truth.
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Sep 12, 2017 22:07
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Mr Executive posted:When the bucket collapses on 3 sides, the 3 "corners" poke out farther than the original diameter of the bucket. The outer bucket would prevent those inner bucket corners from popping out, preventing the bucket from collapsing. Maybe? I don't know. Somebody just told me about it on the internet. If it's a good seal, wouldn't the bucket trying to collapse in on itself create a vacuum in the space between the buckets, which would counteract the pull? Is there a general physics questions thread?
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Sep 13, 2017 00:49
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You'd think a purpose-built product would just come with one stronger bucket. I guess two generic ones was cheaper.
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Sep 13, 2017 02:16
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I'm still very much a novice... but I wanted to post. Working wood has been a new, and very cathartic revelation for me. I am loving it. Last year I got a 10 inch miter. This year for my birthday, a table saw. Kreg Pocket Hole K4 Milwaukee Fuel Jigsaw Milwaukee Fuel impact driver And I've just been watching YouTubes and messing about, learning as I go. I'm building a side table for the couch. Ash with poplar diagonal reinforcement. Going to find s place to get cut Marcie for the top. Need to stain and poly. But I finished the frame today.    (Official beverage of my woodworking adventure!)   Man I love Pocket Holes!! Hey speaking of Cut slab Marble... any of you guys know where I might buy some and hopefully have it cut? I'm in Seattle.
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Sep 13, 2017 05:02
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Mr Executive posted:When the bucket collapses on 3 sides, the 3 "corners" poke out farther than the original diameter of the bucket. The outer bucket would prevent those inner bucket corners from popping out, preventing the bucket from collapsing. Maybe? I don't know. Somebody just told me about it on the internet. Mathwise: The top OD of a 5 gallon bucket is 11.91", which gives it a circumference of 37.42" If you take 37.42" of material and try to press it into a square (I'm doing a square instead of a triangle because the math is easier), you'd have a square that's 9.35" to a side, and 13.22" across it on the diagonal, about an inch and a half bigger than the original diameter of the top of the bucket, forcing that bucket to also deform to accomodate the deformation of the inner bucket. Of course, the deformation isn't going to actually ever cause the bucket to become a square, but the same idea applies. As you said, as some parts of the bucket bulge inward, other parts of the bucket will bulge outward, and the outer bucket reinforces the inner one. Visually, if you pull in from four directions on the sides of a circular object, it'll deform towards something roughly like this (don't quote me on this, and it's just some lovely hack job I slapped together in paint  And the diagonal between the 'corners' of that will be bigger than the original diameter of the circle, so another circle wrapped around it would also have to deform. TheBananaKing posted:If it's a good seal, wouldn't the bucket trying to collapse in on itself create a vacuum in the space between the buckets, which would counteract the pull? Is there a general physics questions thread? Offhand, I don't think it would (bachelor's in physics, but I'm not a specialist in any kind of work with vacuum seals, so if someone tells you I'm full of crap, take them at face value). In my experience, if a deformation is big enough that it would cause a sizable pocket of vacuum, it's going to be big enough to break the seal between the buckets.
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Sep 13, 2017 08:45
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There's a challenge running in my staffroom to build a jewellery box by the end of the teaching year in December. It requires us to develop our skills while producing something of high craftsmanship. I was going to do as many of the joins using a dovetail jig as possible but we only have combs to do skinny dovetails and I'd like something bigger. I'm thinking I might skip a comb and see if cutting out the waste makes it work how I want it. If it doesn't I'll have to do them by hand. It's going to be mostly Tasmanian blackwood with maybe some jacaranda Highlights if I have a log that is seasoned properly
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Sep 13, 2017 09:17
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Hi guys. I've been working with wood/lino block printing a bunch, and after seeing a wood carving exhibit, my wife said to me "why don't you make wood carvings?". So to demonstrate to her the foolishness of saying something like that to me, what should I look for for a decent carving tool set? I'd love to use my current tools but I'm not sure they're cut out for much wood carving, at least beyond small details. I assume basswood would be a good place to start practicing on?
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Sep 13, 2017 18:31
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I would also love to learn to make cool wood sculptures. Any advice other than "go start hacking at bits of wood, nerd" anyone can offer?
Magres fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Sep 13, 2017 |
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Sep 13, 2017 18:33
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Except for finishing part of it, I'm done with my two step stool/chairs. And they're wrong. I don't know what I did, but somewhere, math and real life didn't line up and things didn't work how I expected and planned for them to. In the sketchup file I made, using measurements taken from the original chair, the back support should lean back 15°  However, after putting everything together, the back doesn't lean at all.  Taking them apart and putting them back together is not an option. They are too far gone with glue and nails. Taking them apart will just destroy the wood. Any ideas what I did wrong here?
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Sep 13, 2017 18:45
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Did you pivot on the edge of the wood, rather than the center of the wood? You might be able to route a channel to provide a bit more travel. EDIT: Scale might be off on the bottom segment? Looks smaller in material form than in the drawing, compared to the backrest.
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Sep 13, 2017 18:54
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Yeah, I measured the pivot from the center, down where the dowel comes through. Drilling out a gap with a hole saw at the back of the rest was my idea, but routing it would probably be much easier. I wonder if it was just something as dumb as measuring wrong when I laid out where that bottom dowel hole should have been drilled out. No idea. And frustrating. They'll go better next time, I suppose.
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Sep 13, 2017 19:03
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Kruxy posted:Yeah, I measured the pivot from the center, down where the dowel comes through. Now you know what to look out for. Otherwise it looks great. Hell, sell the concept as a step-stool and "proper posture" trainer. See if Etsy bites.
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Sep 13, 2017 19:16
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dupersaurus posted:Hi guys. I've been working with wood/lino block printing a bunch, and after seeing a wood carving exhibit, my wife said to me "why don't you make wood carvings?". So to demonstrate to her the foolishness of saying something like that to me, what should I look for for a decent carving tool set? I'd love to use my current tools but I'm not sure they're cut out for much wood carving, at least beyond small details. I assume basswood would be a good place to start practicing on? I hear flexcut chip carving sets are a good place to start but have no personal experience
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Sep 13, 2017 21:29
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Well, I couldn't just let it go so I went in there and remeasured and sure enough, my measurements were off. I carefully levered off the back pieces and measured the dowels and t turns out that I had drilled the holes an inch shy of where they were supposed to be.  that punch divot is where the center of the dowel should be. So I just cut off the protruding pieces and sanded them flush. Later this evening I'll need to cut a couple more crossbars and fit them in with new dowel. and then hopefully I can get the backs back on without breaking them.
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Sep 13, 2017 23:38
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Dang I should have done my homework beforehand. A 26 x 26 slab of cut marble is gonna run me like 3 bills. Oh well, can't back down now! Anyhoo... question time. The end table I am making (posted progress pics above, this page...) I've never worked with stain before. Any good brands, easy to use? Not finicky about drying? Looking for sort of a darker look... not full on espresso, but something that works well visually with white marble top.
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Sep 14, 2017 00:54
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Feenix posted:Dang I should have done my homework beforehand. A 26 x 26 slab of cut marble is gonna run me like 3 bills. Oh well, can't back down now! There's granite offcuts all the time on craigslist from the granite countertop shops. So maybe marble too?
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Sep 14, 2017 01:05
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If you have a habitat for humanity re-store in the area, they sometimes have boneyards for various stone (and similar) countertops. You'll have to find a place to cut/bevel/polish to dimension for you, but that's a relatively small cost. Still probably cost a fair amount, but significantly less than buying straight new. Note that not all stone countertop places will cut materials they don't sell themselves. Just call around, if they say no, ask if they know anyone who will.
Bad Munki fucked around with this message at 01:09 on Sep 14, 2017 |
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Sep 14, 2017 01:06
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Yeah, Habitat ReStore is probably exactly what you want, if you can get to one.
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Sep 14, 2017 01:27
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Thanks all! I will check around for Habitat ReStore and similar...
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Sep 14, 2017 03:56
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Feenix posted:Dang I should have done my homework beforehand. A 26 x 26 slab of cut marble is gonna run me like 3 bills. Oh well, can't back down now! I'd check out YouTube vids for brands you are looking at to see how they apply them. I haven't done a whole lot of finishing, but I've liked the General Finishes water based stains a whole lot more than any oil based stains I've tried. For a piece that light you may have a hard time getting it dark with an oil based stain, but I can't be certain because I've only used the oil based crap they sell at HD and Lowe's so perhaps I just made poor choices.
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Sep 14, 2017 04:38
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Feenix posted:Thanks all! I will check around for Habitat ReStore and similar... Maybe check out Second Use downtown
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Sep 14, 2017 04:41
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Hey West Michigan: https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/tls/d/grizzly-3hp-dust-collector/6303823900.html gently caress tearing up my driveway to re-run conduit for 240v. Offering a proper goon discount. $275
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Sep 14, 2017 18:13
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drilled new holes, ran new dowels and relaquered everything. All finished up now.  I hope the twins love them as much as my sister and I loved ours. (and we had to share, we didn't each get our own)
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Sep 14, 2017 21:20
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Kruxy posted:drilled new holes, ran new dowels and relaquered everything. fyi I am probably going to steal this and make one for my son now
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Sep 14, 2017 21:27
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I am not a fine woodworker by any standard, but I did make a rolling table to put in my laundry room that gives me a little surface area and also allowed me to put the cats litterbox somewhere out of the way. Frame is yellow pine, the top is Birch veneer 3/4 ply with some ash strips around the edge grain, and I finished it with some leftover shellac and general finished high performance poly. I bought a pockethole kit to put it all together and it was pretty easy/fun but I definitely need more clamps and right angle kreg clamps to get stuff better aligned. The vertical 2x8 is glued and pockethole to the top and bottom 2x4s and then I came back, drilled a 1/2" hole through the two and glued in some half inch dowels. I'm hesitant to really test it but it appeared to be able to hold my 165 lbs when I leaned on it. I don't plan on ever putting that much weight on it. I had to use a block plain to try and level the ash with the plywood surface and wound up getting a bunch of tearout because of irregular grain direction, I think. Either way it's just for the utility room so it'll do.   
MetaJew fucked around with this message at 21:53 on Sep 14, 2017 |
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Sep 14, 2017 21:50
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Hubis posted:fyi I am probably going to steal this and make one for my son now Here you go: Up I'm a Chair / Down I'm a Stair That back piece of measurements exists because Home Depot didn't have oak boards wide enough, so I had to glue up two 3.5" boards for the sides. The marks along the center edge are where I drilled my dowels. I don't have any dimensions on anything else because it's all length and width cuts. All of the boards are 3/4". Dowels are 1/2". I added an extra slat onto the back support that I didn't draw in the sketchup. It gives more support when back, more room to step on when down, and keeps the back from swinging passed the base. Everything gets an 1/8" or 1/4" roundover (whichever you like best) so it has soft edges for little hands. I don't have a router table to safely work all of these small pieces, so I did all of my roundovers on a sanding belt. The only things that don't get a round over are the inside and outside of the dowel holes, and the ends of the dowel support beams underneath so that you have a little more (end-grain) glue surface. Put the entire bottom together first, get your finish on the outside of the leg pieces, and the inside of the back supports since you'll never be able to get in there again once it's assembled. The top piece gets assembled and glued together while it's actually on the bottom piece.
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Sep 14, 2017 22:30
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So I've been googling around for good stains for Ash. I want something darker, because I feel like it needs to "go" with a marble table top. Can you do stains on Ash that look like so: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Qsxu7gb6To&t=389s The link in the video is Minwax Wood Finish - Honey 272. I'm guessing due to Ash's lightness, I will get something like the result in the video but a touch lighter... Yea?
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Sep 14, 2017 23:48
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I thought the general consensus was that if you use a gel stain you can stain almost any wood. Although I've never used a gel stain. I'd like to know, too.
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Sep 14, 2017 23:55
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I wonder if I can go regular stain and if it's too light or too slight, go darker, or gel, or whatever is needed. I built something pretty nice so I don't want to have to scrap it if I gently caress up in the staining steps...
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Sep 15, 2017 00:01
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Save a piece of scrap and test your stain on it first.
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Sep 15, 2017 00:05
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Feenix posted:So I've been googling around for good stains for Ash. I want something darker, because I feel like it needs to "go" with a marble table top. Ash might be a touch lighter than what they were using , (I skimmed through that, they're using white pine?) but it's a hardwood, so it's not going to absorb stain as greedily as pine, which is the biggest drinker, confirmed rummy, etc. So you'll want to leave it on longer before wiping off. There's a lot of control with combo stains like minwax, and with gel stains as mentioned- although, tbf, I only used a gel once or twice long ago and can't recall what my take was. I don't think I liked it. edit Leperflesh posted:Save a piece of scrap and test your stain on it first. this, always this
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Sep 15, 2017 00:50
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Fair point I always forget I'll have scrap.  Thanks, lads. (Or lasses?)
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Sep 15, 2017 01:24
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Falcon2001 posted:There's a few types that have been tested - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4EmtYa93KEU and he did a second video as well. I was looking through my local woodshop's short pile this weekend and they had a piece of ebony sitting there. I had to ask, and it was $109/bf. While we were on the subject of absurdly expensive wood, he also let me know they can get pink ivory at $300/bf. Based on Google images, it looks a lot like beets on oak.
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Sep 15, 2017 02:02
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While tangentially talking about staining, let me ask this: Do you guys have any recommendations for good masks or rebreathers? (Is that the right term?) I get those regular-rear end painter masks and mostly all I do is immediately fog up my glasses. :/ and they don't seem to work so hot. I'm assuming I'll need protection for when I'm staining and such...
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Sep 15, 2017 04:27
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Feenix posted:I'm assuming I'll need protection for when I'm staining and such... As long as you work in a well-ventilated space, you'll be fine. Open some windows and set up a floor fan.
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Sep 15, 2017 05:27
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3M TR-300 is full face, fits over glasses, and appears to be powered. Should keep the glasses fog-free as well as other comfort considerations.
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Sep 15, 2017 06:24
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Ummmmmmmmmmm....
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Sep 15, 2017 07:07
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