|
Kruxy posted:Built a work table over weekend. It's on casters so that I can move it around and it's the same height as the saw so that I can use it as an outfeed table. That shelf is too high though and needs to come down some.
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 15:05
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 02:18 |
|
|
As an option, leave the shelf where it is, but make it a drawer. Helps keep dust off stuff.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 15:42
|
|
|
Crotch Fruit posted:That looks like a very similar design, but much higher quality finish then my work benches. (protip: always double check to make sure Menard's value lumber is not a ski ramp. . .) What type of plywood did you use, looks kinda like MDF or particle board? I will agree the shelf does look kinda high, could make reaching items farther back difficult. I stand in Home Depot and look at all of the 2x4s until I find the 6 or so that look the best. I bet the people there hate me. MDF on both shelves and the top and then the top has an additional layer of hardboard/masonite on it. I probably should have gotten 3/4" or 1" for the top and then the hardboard, but it'll be ok with just the 1/2" I think. Bad Munki posted:As an option, leave the shelf where it is, but make it a drawer. Helps keep dust off stuff. Oh, good idea.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 16:01
|
|
|
Kruxy posted:I stand in Home Depot and look at all of the 2x4s until I find the 6 or so that look the best. I bet the people there hate me. This is pretty normal behavior, just try not to block aisles or leave the stacks a mess and no one will bat an eye.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 19:07
|
|
|
There's always some element of lumber sorting no matter where you buy it. Like, I've ordered select-grade lumber from a lumberyard and gotten cracked/waned/twisted boards that had to be returned. And they fully expect that to happen.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 19:12
|
|
|
Do people just run to the store and grab 20 random 2x4's without checking them first? That's like just shoveling random produce into your bag!
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 19:28
|
|
|
Depending on what they're being used for, yes. And also the quality of the work they do.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 19:48
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:Do people just run to the store and grab 20 random 2x4's without checking them first? That's like just shoveling random produce into your bag! House framers. A lot of poo poo that is well beyond reject grade for furniture is perfectly fine inside of a wall. Anything so hosed it can't be wedged into a house will be visible from orbit and doesn't really require detailed sorting. As long as framers will happily come buy an entire stack of lumber every week, lumber places have pretty much no incentive to sort the poo poo themselves.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 19:48
|
|
|
Baronjutter posted:Do people just run to the store and grab 20 random 2x4's without checking them first? That's like just shoveling random produce into your bag! I guess it works okay if you just want to build a lovely drywall?
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 19:50
|
|
|
On the flip side, people will spend insane amounts of time picking through an entire lift of lumber trying to find half a dozen "perfect" boards so they can cut them two feet long and build their chicken coop. Particularly when the yard is really busy and short staffed.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 19:58
|
|
|
If they sell unusable trash mixed in with usable straight wood, they kinda get what they get.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 20:05
|
|
|
Javid posted:House framers. A lot of poo poo that is well beyond reject grade for furniture is perfectly fine inside of a wall. Anything so hosed it can't be wedged into a house will be visible from orbit and doesn't really require detailed sorting. House framers don't go to the lumberyard and pick up a load. They give a list to the builder or whatever yard and those folks deliver bundles of lumber with bigass trucks. You cull as you go, and use the straight lumber for walls; it's absurd to expect a yard to do that poo poo for you. That's what differentiates a framer you, the customer want to use vs. the fly-by-nighters. You, the framer are gonna cut up a bunch of it into smaller pieces anyhow, so if it's not like a banana it's probably usable.
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 20:17
|
|
|
Anybody ever do any chemical oxidation with Potassium Dichromate? I've got a big dining table to get done before thanksgiving (hahaha) all out of cherry, and I'd rather not wait 15 years for it to darken. On a related note, I need more clamps. I had to wait between leg glueups for aforementioned table.  Came out nice, though 
|
|
#
?
Oct 16, 2017 22:24
|
|
|
Finally made some more progress on this bedside table. First drawer I've ever made and first blind dovetails. They turned out ok, though I really struggled getting even a 6mm chisel into the corners of the dovetail recesses. A knife worked ok but a chisel without the 90degree edges would be great. I also made the drawer too short. Lost about 3cm of depth in an already small drawer. Thankfully I have a second whole one to make where I can fix these mistakes. Next step is putting a nice chamfer on the underside of the table top and finishing!    
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 09:11
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:You cull as you go, and use the straight lumber for walls; it's absurd to expect a yard to do that poo poo for you. I cant complain too much, I would buy all my lumber at Home Depot since I almost never seen bent boards there. But I am limited by trunk size and a desire to not track down a worker to cut my wood first, so I go to the Menards value lumber section where it's already cut down to lengths usually up to about 4ft. Most of the time, the defect is a small crack, large knot, or gnarly saw marks, all poo poo I can usually deal with. But the price used to be 59 cents per piece and it's now a dollar a board, it's getting pretty hard to justify sorting through all of the trash (and I mean 90% of it is trash in the value lumber section) instead of just tracking down someone to cut the board at home depot. Hell, I'm a little tempted to buy a cordless circular saw just so I can buy full boards and then cut them at the trunk of my car, or I might just attempt to take my cordless sawzall someday but then my cut would look like poo poo.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 13:22
|
|
|
Crotch Fruit posted:Is it really absurd to expect a saw mill, which is likely already scanning every board with a laser, to reject the really crappy ones? Or maybe they already try to but some poo poo still manages to make it through. At the sawmill, the boards won't be warped or cracked, because they're still wet. They could detect wane and knots, but that's it.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 14:33
|
|
|
Mr. Mambold posted:House framers don't go to the lumberyard and pick up a load. They give a list to the builder or whatever yard and those folks deliver bundles of lumber with bigass trucks. You cull as you go, and use the straight lumber for walls; it's absurd to expect a yard to do that poo poo for you. That's what differentiates a framer you, the customer want to use vs. the fly-by-nighters. Lol for real, now I'm imagining picking up enough lumber to frame any decent project in your own rig piece by piece
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 16:32
|
|
|
I'm not much of a woodworker but I'm building a bed. It's mostly steel but there will be wood running around the 3 visible edges. This is the design. The rear legs should be hidden, they will be left dark gray primer, will live in shadow, and from most angles won't be visible. The rest of the frame will be gloss white. The rear edge of the bed fits over the baseboard hydronic heating so the wall will function as a headboard:  The frame is finished aside from some more grinding to make pretty surfaces on some of the welds:  And I just spent a lot more than I intended to on some 5/4 mahogany. I'm having the lumber yard s4s for me since my woodworking tools are limited to a circular saw and some cheap planes. I am planning to miter the front corner and probably borrow a friends biscuit joiner to keep them lined up. I have a stick of 2x2 1/8 angle and my current plan is to weld it to the frame and pin the back side of the wood like this:  I think that should keep stress off of the joint and povide some good strength. This is the room it is going into (no longer a nursery):  For finishing I am debating something as simple as straight BLO doing waterlox. Would love some opinions. I want to push the grain but I don't want it to get unnecessarily dark or pick up any extra red tone (the stuff I picked up is a nice medium brown when I wet it). asmasm fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Oct 17, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 17:51
|
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:Lol for real, now I'm imagining picking up enough lumber to frame any decent project in your own rig piece by piece In the Future, lumber will be lab grown to perfect specs. Well, it's gonna be all reconstituted plastic, recycled tires, and maybe some sawdust so.....
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 18:29
|
|
|
Crotch Fruit posted:Is it really absurd to expect a saw mill, which is likely already scanning every board with a laser, to reject the really crappy ones? Or maybe they already try to but some poo poo still manages to make it through. It is undoubtedly cheaper to account for getting a few absolute duds and tossing them (either at the site or at the lumber yard) than it would be to define at the manufacturer what it means to be an absolute dud (just because not everyone could use a board doesn't mean that nobody can) and interrupt the lines to do inspection. If you absolutely have to have perfect boards, then you're not getting them from the clearance section of Wood-R-Us, and are willing to pay the extra money it requires.
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 18:43
|
|
|
*Warning Image dump* So I'm new at actual work working things and I managed to get my hands on various hardwood scraps from a guy that wanted to clean his shop up a bit.  First thing I tried was a couple of simple Spoons from a single chunk of scrap, fairly decent success!  I don't have a bandsaw...yet  My mom and friend love them very much.  Next: Bottle Openers from  The nail is a bit low so they aren't perfect, but they do work! I actually plan on taking out the nail and moving it closer to the top so it grips bottle caps better.  Mixing media, Bad Movie Trophy!  Adding glow-in-the-dark green resin for the "toxic movie."   The Stand:  Winner for this competition of best worst movies "Food Fight" (2012).  Now for my first real glue-up piece: the Pizza Peel/Cutting Board.  I definitely could use more clamps, also don't let pipes touch your glue! (it turns black) really could use more clamps...   I was going to have a fancy design on the back for the pizza peel, until I decided to also make it a cutting board because it's so long. The extra piece would've prevented it from paying flat.  I had to fill a void with some resin, but it has a nice pizza peeling edge and feels very strong! 
|
|
#
?
Oct 17, 2017 19:11
|
|
|
So I'm in the final stages of my end table. It 4 legs and an upper frame (to stabilize). I have some Clear Satin Wipe-on Poly. I was advised it was easy to use with rags, etc. A couple questions before I start1: 1) Can I work vertically? (with the table standing upright?) or should I always work on a horizontal surface? (and if the latter, I guess I need to do like 2 sides and then let it dry before rotating it, so it doesn't stick to my tarp. 2) I saw one dude in a video mention sanding his second coat with 400. I have never done poly, and am pretty new to woodworking. If I'm going to do 4 coats, what does sanding do and should I do it? 3) any general wipe-on poly tips or tricks? Thanks!
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2017 16:52
|
|
|
Sanding smooths out dust nibs, and more importantly creates scratches for later layers to "grab on" to. I use a 320 grit sanding sponge on every layer except the last, on which I use a brown paper bag. Google "Flexner wiping varnish" or so for loads of articles by finishing expert Bob Flexner on the finish and how to apply it. As for vertical, I think the main concern is getting runs. If you're applying thin enough coats, I think it's fine.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2017 18:02
|
|
|
ColdPie posted:Sanding smooths out dust nibs, and more importantly creates scratches for later layers to "grab on" to. I use a 320 grit sanding sponge on every layer except the last, on which I use a brown paper bag. Thanks for the tips. I don't mind doing it in shifts if it means better quality. Actually I probably WANT to do it in shifts because I have to do the interior of legs and frame and all these hard to reach areas, etc. And I assume this is hand-sanding, and are you going circles or with the grain?
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2017 18:22
|
|
|
I bought a water-based stain/gloss combo and it worked pretty ok but I got the wrong shade, needs to be more brown/orange/gold. I now went and got a small can of their "golden" colour, same 2-in-one product. If I just put a light coat of the new shade over top will that be safe? I don't know anything about stains, specially weird "one coat" 2-in-1 things.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2017 18:23
|
|
|
mahogany with a quick BLO on scrap to see the color: I also cast some urethane rubber to make custom furniture feet. These sit about an inch and half inside the tube. The one on the right is before I cut, sanded it to match the tube profile: 
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2017 18:26
|
|
|
Feenix posted:Thanks for the tips. I don't mind doing it in shifts if it means better quality. Actually I probably WANT to do it in shifts because I have to do the interior of legs and frame and all these hard to reach areas, etc. Mostly with, but the grit should be fine enough that you can't really see the scratches. They get filled in with the next coat anyway. Sand just until it feels smooth, just a few seconds. Don't sand through to the wood.
|
|
#
?
Oct 18, 2017 18:27
|
|
|
Michigoons: https://grandrapids.craigslist.org/tls/d/clamp-collection-on-stand/6352377428.html I loving wish.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2017 18:29
|
|
|
I've got the DeWalt 735 planer. The rollers are kinda goobered up with fir sap and suck to clean. I looked up replacements and JESUS loving CHRIST $60 each and there are two. So I basically need to actually take them out and scrub the poo poo out of them. Anybody happen to know what exactly they're made of and chemicals to use/not use on them? I'll have a couple weeks of slack soon so at least I don't have to do this poo poo same day.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2017 22:09
|
|
|
Javid posted:I've got the DeWalt 735 planer. The rollers are kinda goobered up with fir sap and suck to clean. I looked up replacements and JESUS loving CHRIST $60 each and there are two. So I basically need to actually take them out and scrub the poo poo out of them. Anybody happen to know what exactly they're made of and chemicals to use/not use on them? I'll have a couple weeks of slack soon so at least I don't have to do this poo poo same day. Also, if you're having feeding problems it helps a giant amount to wax the bed.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2017 22:22
|
|
|
Also wax the area around the cutterhead so that those surfaces don't also build up sap and residue.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2017 22:24
|
|
|
PNW woodworkers... I have an unfinished (ie: not warmed by the house) garage that is my workspace. Rain has started in earnest and I am dying to finish my table with Poly. I know damp air and colder temps can make dry time take longer. Do you think I am in any danger of ruining it? Or will I just be inconvenienced? I will try to wait for dry days to do this, etc... but I may not have much of a choice.
|
|
#
?
Oct 19, 2017 22:34
|
|
|
Feenix posted:PNW woodworkers... I have an unfinished (ie: not warmed by the house) garage that is my workspace. Rain has started in earnest and I am dying to finish my table with Poly. I know damp air and colder temps can make dry time take longer. Do you think I am in any danger of ruining it? Or will I just be inconvenienced? I will try to wait for dry days to do this, etc... but I may not have much of a choice. What about running a de-humidifier in the garage?
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 00:58
|
|
|
Ziggy Smalls posted:What about running a de-humidifier in the garage? I don’t have one and I don’t really have the room or budget right now to get one. Just mostly curious if I am just looking at inconvenience or potential gently caress up due to humidity.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 01:11
|
|
|
Feenix posted:PNW woodworkers... I have an unfinished (ie: not warmed by the house) garage that is my workspace. Rain has started in earnest and I am dying to finish my table with Poly. I know damp air and colder temps can make dry time take longer. Do you think I am in any danger of ruining it? Or will I just be inconvenienced? I will try to wait for dry days to do this, etc... but I may not have much of a choice. I roll poly in similar conditions (unheated/shittily insulated garage in the PNW) all winter and it's good enough to put out the door on $2500 beds. You'll be fine. The most we do is crank up a propane heater to make it dry FASTER, but it will still dry if you just leave it alone. Hypnolobster posted:Mineral spirits is typically the recommended solvent for that. If I remember right, it's mentioned in the manual too. You can just crank the head all the way up, yank off the top like you're going to change blades and turn the rollers by the little gear inside (have to push down the detent on the far end of the cutterhead). Pitch should come off super easily with mineral spirits. Taking out the rollers would suck bigtime. I've been procrastinating waxing it so I guess it's time. Thanks. Javid fucked around with this message at 01:59 on Oct 20, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 01:54
|
|
|
Anyone have any recommendations for weekend woodworking classes near Boston? I'm looking to make a weekend of it but I don't have a car so I'm hoping something in a small town that I could get to by train. My searching hasn't turned up much.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 05:11
|
|
|
This is probably amateur hour for the people in here, but the last thing I built was a footstool in elementary school. I’m thinking about DIYing a desk. Two sawhorses biting onto 2x4s screwed into the surface of the desk. The thing is I’m not sure what to make the surface out of. The plans I have seen say plywood, but I want to make sure that’s not a bad idea. The dimensions would be about 3 feet by 4-5 feet. Sawhorses would probably be 6” to 1’ in from the edges, with 3 feet in between. It would have a computer tower ~30-40lbs, a printer ~30lbs, and a VESA mount on the back eventually holding two monitors, let’s say 50lbs. Would 3/4” plywood work for that? I would be placing the computer and printer as close to over the legs as possible. I just don’t know what kind of load plywood is good for. If necessary I guess I could reinforce it with some more 2x4. I’m spitballing here, I would need to measure the exact dimensions available, but it seems like it could be a pretty cheap solution. As a bonus, when I move I can just pop the sawhorses off and carry it out as a board.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 18:37
|
|
|
Don't know about the rest of the world, but over here it's easy to get ready-made tabletops from glued up lumber. My current desk is made with one of those, a cheap 4 cm thick spruce surface, 60x150 cm, got it for around €50. (That's about 1½" thick, 2x5 ft.) I just finished it with some sanding and oil, and attached legs.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 18:50
|
|
|
22 Eargesplitten posted:This is probably amateur hour for the people in here, but the last thing I built was a footstool in elementary school. I built a quick desk of similar dimension with 3/4" plywood. Mine is supported at the ends and along the back with a skirt. It has two 27" monitors and some other junk on there. It's mostly fine but there is definitely movement on the front edge if you rest your arms or elbow on it. In retrospect it would have been wise to do something to support the front edge like a lip or even screwing some steel under there or something. I did all the edges with 3/4 half round Oak but I don't think it made much difference. Some pictures for reference Computer Desk https://imgur.com/a/NQdot Also, Google the sagulator to get an idea of how much flex you'll see based on the weight, wood type and support. Squibbles fucked around with this message at 19:39 on Oct 20, 2017 |
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 19:35
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 02:18 |
|
|
I have made many plywood top desks. 3ft deep might be a bit much, I have always tried to stay about 30in deep at most. Over time it will start to sag in the unsupported middle. Any support you can give it on all sides will prevent it from sagging. I have found that adding a sheet of formica on top gives it a nice easy waterproof top that will help the longevity of the cheaper wood.
|
|
#
?
Oct 20, 2017 19:44
|
|
