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It sounds like I'll be good doing what I've been doing - keeping an eye on Apollo and his nylabone.
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Dec 2, 2017 01:47
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Fluffy Bunnies posted:http://abcnews.go.com/GMA/AmazingAnimals/dog-proof-good-bad-toys-pooch/story?id=126161 "dogs with sharp teeth" so like, all dogs basically. they're basically plexiglass for your dog's intestines when they start shucking off bits of it so I never suggest them just because I've seen too many dogs get sick. That article gives a warning on "Nylabone Plaque Attackers" and says that product carries a warning on the package. It literally says: quote:Regular Nylabones are fine though, Becker said.
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Dec 2, 2017 02:10
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I got this for my dog who can destroy anything in 30 seconds or less and he hasn’t put a dent in it yet in over 2 weeks. It’s softer than a nylabone but no real place to start a cleavage point. It also has holes on the side for treats. 
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Dec 2, 2017 02:12
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My poodle MacGyver was just diagnosed with Addison's Disease today... Anyone else have any experience with Addison's in a pet?
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Dec 5, 2017 23:32
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My parents gsp has it. Needs steroid (I think) shots every month. Not cheap and the disease lasts the life of your pet. She's 10 and still has all the gsp energy so doesn't seem like it's slowed her down at all.
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Dec 6, 2017 01:44
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Just to add to the walking to heel query. The trainer at our dog school gets us to use the smelliest treat we have and hold it under our flat hand against the side of our thigh, the dog will jump up at first to try and get it but eventually they will learn if you do something like lamp post to lamp post of heel walking before you issue the treat. He also said you should nominate the hand you hold the lead in and stick with it every time, then hold the lead diagonally across you so the dog will be close to the treat. Then once the dogs were starting to follow the treats he said bring it round to the front of your thigh and the dog will walk with his head just in front of you so you can see what he is up to without having to twist too much.
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Dec 8, 2017 13:53
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I am unintentionally free feeding my dog now. I am trying to switch her over from wet food to dry food. I am mixing in some of the wet food with the dry food in the transitional period, but she doesn't seem interested in eating all the dry food. I followed the instructions on the packet, which has a diagram for months and size, but my puppy only seems to eat about half. I don't want to remove it, because she is suppose to eat all of it, but then she starts eating from it again 2 hours later, creating a situation where she is free feeding. Should I just serve breakfast, then remove any excess food if she doesn't eat it within a time limit? If she isn't eating enough, will this not affect her growth pattern and energy needs?
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Dec 9, 2017 11:34
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Acidian posted:Should I just serve breakfast, then remove any excess food if she doesn't eat it within a time limit? If she isn't eating enough, will this not affect her growth pattern and energy needs? Yes. Keep an eye on her as she eats, so you know how much she's having. She should get the idea quickly that she has to eat all of her food in one go. If she's still not eating all of it within a few days, well, then you'll have a problem.
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Dec 9, 2017 11:50
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Wandering in here with a quick question - when is the right time to transition my puppo to adult food? He's six months old, 36 pounds, and my mom actually surprised me with a test for him, so I know what he is now  - he's American pitbull terrier and Rhodesian Ridgeback, apparently. ((Thanks "looks like pointer mix" pound recommendation.  ))I know that size factors into when to transition, right? I had just wondered because the little rear end in a top hat is getting bored of his puppy food. EDIT: I forgot pictures!  Freakbox fucked around with this message at 00:06 on Dec 12, 2017 |
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Dec 12, 2017 00:00
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Freakbox posted:Wandering in here with a quick question - when is the right time to transition my puppo to adult food? He's six months old, 36 pounds, and my mom actually surprised me with a test for him, so I know what he is now those things aren't accurate, sorry dude. he's still a cute dog though.
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Dec 13, 2017 03:39
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i just switched em over when they got bigger, you should be fine switching, they get big and have tough jaws.
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Dec 13, 2017 03:51
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Fluffy Bunnies posted:those things aren't accurate, sorry dude. he's still a cute dog though. Wisdom panel was accurate for my Great Dane Poodle mix.
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Dec 13, 2017 04:09
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If you know what breed your dog is, why get a Wisdom Panel? I understand that there is a market for purebreed and cross breed tests, I just don't get why someone would spend money to see if their known breed(s) dog's DNA is consistent with other known samples from those breeds. I would be interested in having my dog's DNA analyzed for sequences of non-expressing genes that are then compared to purebreeds in their database that have those same sequences. It's as accurate (and fun) as guessing what the hell a dog is by sight. It's still a little pricy for my expected entertainment though.
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Dec 13, 2017 05:02
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My dog was a rescue and the Wisdom panel was just to confirm what the previous owners had listed for her breed at the shelter. Really just for entertainment. She looks kind of like a wolf hound so we had a fun game with our friends guessing what mixes she might be. Turns out she was exactly what the shelter said. 
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Dec 13, 2017 05:09
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That's fun. An owner surrender could potentially have more information than just shelter workers' best guess. Neat that it matched up.
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Dec 13, 2017 06:21
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Joburg posted:My dog was a rescue and the Wisdom panel was just to confirm what the previous owners had listed for her breed at the shelter. Really just for entertainment. She looks kind of like a wolf hound so we had a fun game with our friends guessing what mixes she might be. Turns out she was exactly what the shelter said. Yeah- Bucky's from the pound and he was only 14 weeks old. My mom bought me the wisdom panel, so I figured why not? It didn't cost me anything, so may as well. I guessed that he was pibble and something or other- it doesn't really matter to me, though. He's my buddy regardless of breed. Thanks for the advice- I've gotten multiple responses from everyone. The bag says "12 months", my dog-raising neighbor says "6 months", the internet says "8 months". I'll just change over when I think he's bigger. 
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Dec 13, 2017 10:14
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Freakbox posted:Thanks for the advice- I've gotten multiple responses from everyone. The bag says "12 months", my dog-raising neighbor says "6 months", the internet says "8 months". I'll just change over when I think he's bigger. You can switch to an 'all life stages' food whenever. A number of the good grain free foods are marked as such.
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Dec 13, 2017 12:51
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So I got a little pup from the shelter a month ago. He was already 7 months old and behavior wise he's one of the most well behaved dogs I've ever had. My only concern is that he has some sort of allergy. I'm not sure if it is related to the outdoors, something in my apartment, or food. The shelter said they rescued him from a trailer when he had lived his whole life inside. I switched him over to a grain free lamb food this week, but I've read that it takes a few weeks to determine if that will help. Any advice to help me figure out what's got him so red and itchy?
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Dec 14, 2017 16:19
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Ethiser posted:So I got a little pup from the shelter a month ago. He was already 7 months old and behavior wise he's one of the most well behaved dogs I've ever had. My only concern is that he has some sort of allergy. I'm not sure if it is related to the outdoors, something in my apartment, or food. The shelter said they rescued him from a trailer when he had lived his whole life inside. I switched him over to a grain free lamb food this week, but I've read that it takes a few weeks to determine if that will help. Any advice to help me figure out what's got him so red and itchy? As for food allergies, the only way to figure that out is a really strict food trial, meaning 8 weeks on ONLY a hypoallergenic diet with zero other food or treats. The easiest way to do this is get a prescription hydrolyzed diet from your vet. These diets are basically pre-digested so that the protein particles are so small that they cannot trigger the immune system. OTC diets like the one you’re trying often have contamination with other food proteins, and if he’s allergic to lamb or whatever, it’s not going to work. Basically you’re just guessing and doing a food trial with a proper diet via your vet is a way better use of your time and effort.
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Dec 14, 2017 16:39
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Crooked Booty posted:Have you taken him to a vet yet? Dogs can have all sorts of skin infections which are red an itchy, and while allergies might have predisposed him to get an infection to begin with, an infection isn’t going to clear up until you get him on the right medication. I've got an appointment for next week. I'm just curious what other people have found out with their dogs and allergies.
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Dec 14, 2017 17:01
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I have to give my dog steroids for about 2 months of the year due to seasonal allergies. No fungus/bacteria so far thankfully.
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Dec 14, 2017 17:07
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I don’t know if this is the right thread, I just need to vent. My poor doggy who we’ve only had for 6 months collapsed tonight. She’s 10 and we rescued her knowing she had anal cancer, but they gave her a good prognosis and her checkup only 3 days ago was positive in a good way. We had a party tonight and she loved all the attention she got, because she’s the most diva hound there is. But when she came out back with us, her back legs just gave way. It could just be a bad night but oh god I’ve seen this before and I just can’t stop crying. I hope she’s just loving with me because I’m in such a mess  
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Dec 17, 2017 06:33
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how often should i bathe my dog? someone told me he only needs it if he smells bad or gets into something, but that would mean i would bathe him like... twice a year. and that seems too few and far between.
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Dec 17, 2017 19:33
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boop the snoot posted:how often should i bathe my dog? someone told me he only needs it if he smells bad or gets into something, but that would mean i would bathe him like... twice a year. and that seems too few and far between. If you don't really care about minimizing 'that dog smell' in and around your house/car/possessions then that sounds about right. I bathe my dog maybe a dozen times a year, and that's only because it gets really muddy here around spring time. So it's not even a full on bath with dog shampoo, just a rinse down.
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Dec 17, 2017 19:51
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My dog only gets a bath when he rolls in/murders something especially stank, which usually works out to be maybe 3-4 times a year at most. He's on a good food so really doesn't have a strong dogstink or grease (although I live on a farm so I have different stink standards) and mud doesn't stick to his coat texture. If you're using a good dog shampoo you can bathe them as much as you want though.
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Dec 17, 2017 22:31
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EL BROMANCE posted:I don’t know if this is the right thread, I just need to vent. My poor doggy who we’ve only had for 6 months collapsed tonight. She’s 10 and we rescued her knowing she had anal cancer, but they gave her a good prognosis and her checkup only 3 days ago was positive in a good way. We had a party tonight and she loved all the attention she got, because she’s the most diva hound there is. But when she came out back with us, her back legs just gave way. It could just be a bad night but oh god I’ve seen this before and I just can’t stop crying. I hope she’s just loving with me because I’m in such a mess Thats rough. I hope she was just pulling a flat Basset.
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Dec 17, 2017 22:38
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Seems like it’s a disc problem, common enough with the breed that the emergency vet knew what was up and gave her some injections and some pills and thinks she’ll be ok after that and rest. She’s doing good given the circs. She’s still going to break my heart one day, but at least it feels like that day is further out.
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Dec 17, 2017 23:30
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I bathe my dog in the winter when the river/lakes are frozen because she swims a lot and smells great the rest of the year.
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Dec 18, 2017 00:26
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Not sure if this belongs here or in the training thread, but I could use some advice or even just encouragement. We adopted a 5 month old puppy a little over two weeks ago. We are trying our best to potty train her but have hit a wall where she's having an accident or two every day, usually in the evening. From what I've read she should be old enough to hold her bladder for around 5 hours, but if we don't take her out every hour or sometimes even more often than that she has an accident. We are following the current advice and giving her tons of positive reinforcement when she goes outside and ignoring the accidents and keeping her crated when we're not home. (I work from home and my husband is about to start a new job so we're both mostly at home.) Sometimes she barks or heads toward the door when she needs to go, but sometimes she does it out of nowhere. Obviously that's when the accidents happen. Is it normal that she needs to go outside so much? And that we don't seem to be making much progress at this stage? Am I just being impatient? edit: I love her to pieces even when she's driving me crazy so here's a picture of the cutest pup ever 
Winter Rose fucked around with this message at 18:40 on Dec 19, 2017 |
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Dec 19, 2017 05:38
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You’re doing good, just keep at it. These things take time and you’re going to be doing some cleaning up no matter what.
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Dec 19, 2017 13:32
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I also could use some insight here. I've owned dogs my whole life, but this puppy we just adopted(only 3 days ago) is the first one we've ever attempted crate training with. We've made it so he has positive experiences with the crate - treats, toys, meals are all placed in there. He likes his crate and will go in it when it's open - if I stand at the entrance and point and say 'go crate!' he will go in and even sit down. We play with him at the door and he has no problems going all the way in to the back to get his food and even lie down, and he fell asleep in it last night(with the gate open for a few minutes, until he realized I was gone then he came out to find me.) The issue comes when we try to close the gate - even for a few minutes. He starts barking and whining and howling non stop. Absolute bloody murder. We've read sites that suggest waiting it out, he'll tire himself out after ten-fifteen minutes, and not to let him out until he stops whining so that he doesn't think whining gets him out. We just had a crossover (first time since saturday) where we weren't both home so he had to go for an hour in the crate. He was left with all his treats and distractions inside, but when I got home just now I stood outside my window on the main floor to see if I could hear him(without alerting him I was home), and he was still barking away. I came in and tried now to just sit at my computer for a few minutes where he could see me and didn't let him out until he was quiet for a little bit, but at this point we're talking 15-20 second windows tops. I don't know how to reconcile the fact that I'm not supposed to let him out until he's quiet versus trying to keep the crate and fun and positive space. If he's miserable in there and whining for upwards of an entire hour, what can I do? Is the answer to just stay the course? I'm not sure. Crating him overnight for sleep would be impossible right now the way he's barking. He sleeps in my room and I'm fine with him being out in my room at night (I.e I could leave the crate open at night and let him sleep in it naturally and just refuse him on the bed with me), but I'm really not sure what else I can do. We've tried stretches where we gate him while he's eating, and he starts to wig out. We've tried sitting in the room and not reacting to the whining for ten-fifteen minute stretches like some websites suggest, and nothing. I'm really not sure how to continue with this training. Anyone have any insights?    Here he is in the crate sleeping with the door open normally. Even today when I got home after the hour and when I did let him out, he'll immediately do a spin around me and even walk back in. He is 100% not upset about the crate, it seems to be separation issues? Capital Letdown fucked around with this message at 23:49 on Dec 19, 2017 |
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Dec 19, 2017 23:45
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Thats a cute pup I would say go slow and keep it a safe positive space with the door open for a while and slowly work on your puppy tolerating with the door closed for short periods of time and build up to it. Also try covering the crate with a blanket so that its dark and cozy when its time for bed. A blanket or sweatshirt with your scent on it can help them feel at home. Sometimes a warm towel out of the dryer can ease their stress. With some dogs, being able to see the rest of the house from inside the crate can cause stress as they don't feel free to roam. When you crate train, you're trying to create a cozy den that the dog feels is their home. Some dogs crate train very well, others do not. Seeing as you're only on your 3rd day, it can take a while so give it time, it seems like your dog is pretty content with it for only your 3rd day. My dog never took to it. He got destructive, never stopped barking and showed signs of separation anxiety so the crate never worked no matter how slow, methodical, and patient we were. Do not sleep with your dog if you want to crate train it. There are a lot of things you can do wrong with crate training (making the crate a punishment, closing the door too soon, etc) but allowing your dog to sleep in the bed/couch with you early on in its puppy stage will be the biggest hurdle. We brought our puppy home and didn't have a crate yet. He couldn't jump up onto the sofa and he certainly wasn't sleeping in our bed because we didn't want them to learn that habit. I had to take him out every 30-60 minutes so I figured I would just sleep on the couch/floor the first few nights. HUGE MISTAKE. He would cry in the crate and wouldn't stop until we let him out. Even just putting a dog bed next to our bed seemed like a miracle. He would sleep throughout the night without any whines or whimpers. As long as he was in a bed and next to us he was fine ... until he was big enough to get on the bed in which case he started sneaking up in the middle of the night. He sleeps with us now and we allow it to happen because we're weak and love the fact that he's a cuddly dog. We like the affection and its hard to resist.
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Dec 20, 2017 00:19
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Warbird posted:You’re doing good, just keep at it. These things take time and you’re going to be doing some cleaning up no matter what. That's all I needed to hear, thanks. We're first time dog owners so I'm nervous about doing things right.
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Dec 20, 2017 07:04
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It's like having kids. After the first, so long as the little bastard is still alive you're good. Or at least that's how things went with my burothers, idunno.
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Dec 21, 2017 05:11
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i got a baby pup a few weeks ago, his name is samwise. the last two nights he slept the whole night through in his crate, i finally got some sleep myself. he likes kongs and toys, he loves his duck and he seems to nurse it, sometimes. he bites furniture and clothes and steals my slippers when i don’t put them in a closet. i assume it’s puppy stuff, i’ve never had a dog. he’s been introduced to older dogs, they don’t really play with him yet, so he’s not great with bite inhibition. i don’t know any very young pups for him to play with. he’ll nip me, and i’ll offer a toy, sometimes he goes for it, other times he’ll give me a big chomp, where i’ll do a “yelp,” or walk out of the room. he kinda gets it with me, but if there are guests over (usually a few times a week i host different events for a couple hours) he will play and bite and tear at clothes without stopping. these are kids, adults, doesn’t matter. people want to pet him because he’s a puppy, but he nips all the time. i wish he would learn some manners, i don’t want to keep him in the crate when guests are over. i feel like i probably need to change my mindset. is this just puppy stuff? will he grow out of it, or are there any strategies i can use to get him to bite people less?
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Dec 22, 2017 16:57
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you appear to have a very healthy puppo. you are also fine like 90% of the folks who post itt. your doing fine. a light 2 fingered bop on the bridge of the nose (light) and a NO is what i usually do for overly biting ones but im not a super expert i just like soft mouthplay if any.
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Dec 22, 2017 18:27
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A good friend of mine is going to see ehis parents and couldn't find anyone to watch his dog. His dog is a female, 14 lb terrier, about 7 or 8 years old. My dog is a 1.5 year old schnauzer, shitzu and or terrier mut. 10lbs. His dog will be staying with my girlfriend, I and our dog for a week. They've never met. What can we do to ensure a relaxing, happy environment and make sure they get along.
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Dec 22, 2017 18:45
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Waroduce posted:A good friend of mine is going to see ehis parents and couldn't find anyone to watch his dog. His dog is a female, 14 lb terrier, about 7 or 8 years old. slow introductions. your dog is young.
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Dec 22, 2017 19:04
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sneakyfrog posted:you appear to have a very healthy puppo. thank you, just wondering
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Dec 22, 2017 19:24
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Smoove J posted:i got a baby pup a few weeks ago, his name is samwise. the last two nights he slept the whole night through in his crate, i finally got some sleep myself. he likes kongs and toys, he loves his duck and he seems to nurse it, sometimes. The reason you're not having success getting older dogs to play with him is because puppies are super annoying to most adult dogs(imagine a toddler coming up to you and repeatedly punching you thinking it's playing). Look into a positive reinforcement based puppy socialization/training class asap. A good one will be a mix of supervised play, training, and teaching you how to overcome common problems like you're having. A great one also teaches you how to recognize the signs of good play vs when your puppy is being an rear end in a top hat(or afraid) and need to end play. Try to find something that isn't petco/smart if you can, but if that's all that's in your area, they at least still are positive reinforcement based. If you're comfortable sharing your city(or the next closest big city to you if you're rural), we could probably recommend somewhere. As for your hosted events, for any that involve kids, I would crate him until he is more trustworthy. For ones that are adult only, tether him somewhere you can see and enforce similar rules to what you have now: he nips, interactions end and the person walks away and doesn't interact with him anymore. Have you been working on his training at all? What I did when I was training my puppy(who luckily wasn't a nipper but a jumper)was give people wanting to greet her a treat and had them lure her into a sit first, then treat and pet, and move out of range of the tether. You could try that too for more polite interactions. Waroduce posted:A good friend of mine is going to see ehis parents and couldn't find anyone to watch his dog. His dog is a female, 14 lb terrier, about 7 or 8 years old. You didn't mention how either dog is with other dogs(are they super friendly? Neutral? Cautious? Aggressive?) For introductions, meet your buddy outside and go for a walk with both dogs(assuming neither have leash aggression issues). If either do or you have access to it(and both dogs have a history of liking other dogs), try a dog park. Basically have them meet somewhere neutral that isn't your house, if you can. I'd feed them completely separately and not give chews/treats in close proximity. Dogs can be fine with you and their food but another dog can be a totally different thing. Never leave them unsupervised together, even if you think they're fine together.
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Dec 22, 2017 22:12
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