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cakesmith handyman posted:How anal are you about edges meeting up? Because any imperfection will be noticeable and impossible to fix. I'd need to see it mocked up or rendered to see how it really comes across but that's personal taste anyway. Very. It's also worth mentioning that being a technical person I have a bias towards assuming real world things can be designed and constructed without allowances. Most of watching builders and trades work has been an exercise in "oh THAT'S why they do it that way, to hide the gaps". Maybe I should stick with something more traditional.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:07
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I don't know the details, but look up how to plan the depth/height dimensions. I know it's critical to get those right, and to be as consistent as possible. Your design has square steps, which I'm pretty sure would feel either way too tall, or too narrow for your feet.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:12
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I don't think you want that 45 degree miter joint right at the spot where feet are going to hit it every time anyone goes up and down the stairs. They're going to get torn to bits. There's a reason stairs generally have a top flat plank (the treads) that overhangs the vertical plank (the risers). If you don't want an overhang, I think that's OK, but you still need strength on the front and top of the treads where the most pressure and stress will be encountered as the stairs are used, and that means not a miter joint. e. You could maybe get away with a miter joint if you cover it with an L-shaped piece of steel or something.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:15
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ColdPie posted:I don't know the details, but look up how to plan the depth/height dimensions. I know it's critical to get those right, and to be as consistent as possible. Your design has square steps, which I'm pretty sure would feel either way too tall, or too narrow for your feet. It's hard to see at that scale but they're actually 192.3 risers and 214 goings, so they're not quite square. Comes out bang on the recommended 42º pitch. The temporary ones I have in my house at the moment are 200 by 220 and they feel fine. Leperflesh posted:I don't think you want that 45 degree miter joint right at the spot where feet are going to hit it every time anyone goes up and down the stairs. They're going to get torn to bits. There's a reason stairs generally have a top flat plank (the treads) that overhangs the vertical plank (the risers). If you don't want an overhang, I think that's OK, but you still need strength on the front and top of the treads where the most pressure and stress will be encountered as the stairs are used, and that means not a miter joint. Yeah probably I should not take this approach.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:20
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Jaded Burnout posted:I've been thinking over a design for a staircase and I think I have my requirements set, but I'd like to get an idea of how difficult it would be to implement. Everything about this is bad. It's as if someone intentionally tried to come up with all the worst ideas on a single project. i.e. ultimate goonery gooning where no woodworker has goon before.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:20
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Mr. Mambold posted:Everything about this is bad. It's as if someone intentionally tried to come up with all the worst ideas on a single project. i.e. ultimate goonery gooning where no woodworker has goon before. Thanks.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:25
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I think if I were building my own stairs I would buy one of those premade stringers from Lowes, copy it line for line twice, then return it. Or just use them. Either way, I wouldn't bother to draw it up myself.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:28
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Surely premade stringers wouldn't be cut right to evenly split your arbitrary floor to floor height into steps?
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Jan 18, 2018 20:31
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You're going to need to be within code for the rise/run anyway, right? I'd feel more comfortable building some short-step landing than dividing 13 into [floor-to-floor] while accounting for whatever unknown unknown that's not on my radar. But I can't see your whole job and I've never done it before, just trying to think out loud of places I'd be liable to gently caress it up somehow on the first try.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:39
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Yeah that's fair. But I think with UK building control it's easier to be in code doing it bespoke, as there's a range of legit runs and rises but you're not allowed to vary them during a run, including at the top and bottom.
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Jan 18, 2018 20:44
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I'm not familiar with metric or UK codes, but in Imperial/US codes 7" riser and 11" tread is the steepest you can go by code. That's 32 degrees. I usually just do 6/12 which is 30 degrees because it's easier to hand sketch and as people age, 6" is more comfortable. You don't want to vary treads or risers, you will trip on them.
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Jan 18, 2018 21:21
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xwing posted:I'm not familiar with metric or UK codes, but in Imperial/US codes 7" riser and 11" tread is the steepest you can go by code. That's 32 degrees. I usually just do 6/12 which is 30 degrees because it's easier to hand sketch and as people age, 6" is more comfortable. UK rules are 150-220mm (7-8.5") rise, 220-300mm (8.5-12") going, and the relationship must satisfy 2R+G = 550-700mm (21.5-27.5"), max 42º at the pitch line. Maybe they're measured differently? xwing posted:You don't want to vary treads or risers, you will trip on them. Yes I know.
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Jan 18, 2018 21:31
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Jaded Burnout posted:UK rules are 150-220mm (7-8.5") rise, 220-300mm (8.5-12") going, and the relationship must satisfy 2R+G = 550-700mm (21.5-27.5"), max 42º at the pitch line. First you have to base what you're building on the existing area you want to go from floor 1 to floor 2, i.e. how much overall run length you have for the stairs, which sometimes is variable. The rise is pretty pre-determined. I'd be really surprised if there aren't online free calculators for doing what we used to do with a framing square and 2 screw-on brass nuts. Or you can play around with calculating a triangular cutout from scrap to scribe the risers.
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Jan 18, 2018 21:59
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Mr. Mambold posted:First you have to base what you're building on the existing area you want to go from floor 1 to floor 2, i.e. how much overall run length you have for the stairs, which sometimes is variable. The rise is pretty pre-determined. I'd be really surprised if there aren't online free calculators for doing what we used to do with a framing square and 2 screw-on brass nuts. Or you can play around with calculating a triangular cutout from scrap to scribe the risers. I know, I did this. Please don’t take this the wrong way but I didn’t ask for help with that. SA folk have a bad habit of assuming ignorance and it’s tiring to rebuff all the time even when I know you’re just trying to be helpful.
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Jan 18, 2018 22:24
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Jaded Burnout posted:I know, I did this. Please don’t take this the wrong way but I didn’t ask for help with that. It's impossible for us to tell how much experience you have unless you tell us, though. And it's always safer to assume that the asker has no clue what they're doing than to assume that they're a competent, intelligent individual that's done their research. The easiest way to not get told "have you considered this thing that you've in fact already considered?" is to tell us that you've considered it, or at least to give us some idea of your background knowledge/experience. (As to your actual question, as I have no idea how to do stairs properly I will refrain from commenting)
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Jan 18, 2018 22:37
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Jaded Burnout posted:I know, I did this. Please don’t take this the wrong way but I didn’t ask for help with that. Don't get jaded or burn out ok?  After reading through the Anarchist Design book as well as Vic Tesolin's The Minimalist Woodworker I think I have decided that I'd like to go with an entirely (or almost entirely) non-powered shop setup. I'm doing this just as a pastime and to make some stuff for myself and learn as I go, and going that route seems quite appealing. So, I've been shopping for a mix of used and new tools and will doubtlessly have many questions as that unfolds. One I had right away was what peoples impressions were of Lufkin tools? While looking for Starrett squares, compasses etc I also see Lufkin ones of similar age and style popping up and was curious if they were worth considering. Any other 'gems' of old/used hand tools would be appreciated. Nothing much to choose from on my local craigslist, so mostly sticking to eBay to get the used things. I'd love to get just all premium / awesome right from the start but honestly I can't commit that much all at once and would gladly sub in a few '2nd best' things that were not mission critical to get started with and then spend more as I find out the things I really rely on the most, etc.
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Jan 18, 2018 22:40
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Jaded Burnout posted:Edit: Sorry my perspective sucks but something like this: This escherian stairwell drawing is dope. Cut your stringers yourself, don't do the mitered corners that will get ruined almost instantly. Do post pictures because I love seeing everyone's work here edit: great now I'm going to be stuck thinking about paradoxical architecture for a while
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Jan 18, 2018 22:50
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That Works posted:After reading through the Anarchist Design book as well as Vic Tesolin's The Minimalist Woodworker I think I have decided that I'd like to go with an entirely (or almost entirely) non-powered shop setup. I'm doing this just as a pastime and to make some stuff for myself and learn as I go, and going that route seems quite appealing. This is kinda how I started and every time I buy a new powertool I just look back and go "What the gently caress was I thinking, christ this is so much easier".
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Jan 18, 2018 22:52
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Tres Burritos posted:This is kinda how I started and every time I buy a new powertool I just look back and go "What the gently caress was I thinking, christ this is so much easier". I don't need any powertools I can totally level this slab out by hand, woodworking is FUN! I'm gonna frame my next house without a nailgun
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Jan 18, 2018 22:55
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:It's impossible for us to tell how much experience you have unless you tell us, though. And it's always safer to assume that the asker has no clue what they're doing than to assume that they're a competent, intelligent individual that's done their research. Tried that, but unfortunately there's a near infinite number of things I'm not asking about and I'll always miss something. And most people won't read it anyway. I will definitely need a lot of help with a lot of projects but when it's a specific question like "here is a step design will it be difficult to construct?" saying "you need to measure the height of your ceiling so you know how tall to make the stairs" is a long way from useful. That Works posted:Don't get jaded or burn out ok? Too late, as you noticed 
Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 22:59 on Jan 18, 2018 |
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Jan 18, 2018 22:56
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Tres Burritos posted:This is kinda how I started and every time I buy a new powertool I just look back and go "What the gently caress was I thinking, christ this is so much easier". Hahah yeah I imagine that may happen but for now at least I am working and storage space limited and have no practical woodworking skills outside of taking woodshop in the mid 90s. It seems like a place to start from that will hold my interest for now. Already been diving into dozens of plans and envisioning things I'd modify them into / simple versions of things I could potentially make right away. Was chatting with the wife about it last night at a restaurant and sketching out a low end table that we use to store plants on during the winter and making a version with a raised rail around it (since the cats knock off said houseplants with remarkable efficiency).
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Jan 18, 2018 22:56
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:This escherian stairwell drawing is dope. Cut your stringers yourself, don't do the mitered corners that will get ruined almost instantly. Do post pictures because I love seeing everyone's work here Turns out perspective is not one of those things you can just guesstimate 
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Jan 18, 2018 22:58
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I don't need any powertools I can totally level this slab out by hand, woodworking is FUN! I'm gonna frame my next house without a nailgun I hammered home all the 16d nails for my workshop (16'x24' freestanding structure) by hand. I mean, not literally all of them, I have a nailgun big enough to fire 16ds, but those fuckers are 3.5"-long steel spikes, having the nailgun dialed up that high scared me. So instead I just got good at hammering. I did use the nailgun for puting up sheathing and siding, I'm not a masochist.
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Jan 18, 2018 23:02
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That Works posted:Don't get jaded or burn out ok? I wrote about this a while back, http://www.smokingonabike.com/2017/01/01/hand-tools-for-a-newbie-woodworker/ There's a link in there to a long series of articles at Wood and Shop that I particularly like.
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Jan 19, 2018 00:38
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Tres Burritos posted:This is kinda how I started and every time I buy a new powertool I just look back and go "What the gently caress was I thinking, christ this is so much easier". I think there's some value in starting by hand and then knowing EXACTLY how much time you save doing it with a power tool.
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Jan 19, 2018 01:43
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Falcon2001 posted:I think there's some value in starting by hand and then knowing EXACTLY how much time you save doing it with a power tool. Yeah, for sure. Also it helps to know what you ARE capable of doing with hand tools, and then comparing that against the cost as well as the time saved. For example: I can't ever see myself buying a jointer. Dumpster wood trip report:   For the price of free I'm pretty pleased with it. Smells pretty fragrant when cut so probably pine? Also I beat some other guys out there who came with a big fuckoff pickup truck so that was nice.
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Jan 19, 2018 02:23
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ColdPie posted:I wrote about this a while back, http://www.smokingonabike.com/2017/01/01/hand-tools-for-a-newbie-woodworker/ Thanks! Bookmarked and I've actually been reading the Wood and Shop articles for the past 2 days or so of vacation.
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Jan 19, 2018 02:34
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ColdPie posted:I wrote about this a while back, http://www.smokingonabike.com/2017/01/01/hand-tools-for-a-newbie-woodworker/ One, lol at that comment on your blog post. Two, ColdPie is doing the Lord's work and I have only a few differences, of mostly personal taste, with his list: 1. For the price I think the Stanley sweetheart chisels are a better starting point. 2. You second guess your veritas saw purchase but I think they are a waaaaay better way to get started and would recommend the three saw kit they sell. (It's so easy to get jacked up backsaws on eBay and a new woodworker isn't going to know how to sharpen them or what "properly functioning" even looks like. And 3. I do not agree with the rabbet block plane decision. But overall, solid gold and follow his advice, even if you completely ignore me you'll end up in a good place.
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Jan 19, 2018 06:48
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Tres Burritos posted:Dumpster wood trip report: To the eyeball that looks a little denser than pine, but it could very well be.
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Jan 19, 2018 06:54
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Pine can be that dense, slow growth stuff.
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Jan 19, 2018 06:58
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Yeah, probably. It looks like good stuff, whatever it is. I'd have hauled as much as I could fit in my trunk, too. Feedback time! I'm looking at making a smaller version of this portable shooting bench: http://www.larrywillis.com/shootingbench.html I don't have a pickup, so it has to fit in my trunk, and neither I nor anyone I currently shoot with is a lefty that I know of, so I was thinking I'd shave off the whole right side and some of the middle to make it narrower, like so:  Top will be laminated layers of 3/4 ply, which I have a shitload of scrap to play with at work. The rectangles are the legs, which will be 31" 2x6, attached with structural lags where the dots are, and big rear end fender washers. Takedown for transport would just involve zipping them out with my impact gun. I know there's a finite amount of in/out cycles those are gonna be good for, and have thought about using some kind of insert/machine screw setup for longevity. But if I use it enough to where I wear out the holes, I can just flip the legs upside down to double the life span, or buy one size fatter lags, or something. Worst case maybe I make new legs in 8 years or something, whatever, fir is cheap. The idea being that the legs being oriented opposite like that will give it some bracing against pressure sideways and front/back, and that with hauling it places being a goal, extra bracing pieces aren't ideal. I suspect it'll be rigid *enough* but am curious what people think.
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Jan 19, 2018 07:19
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It's a little pinker than those other photos and the smell is strong when cut / planed so mayyyybe some kind of cedar? I'm not 100% sure what cedar smells like tho. I have also learned that I'm absolutely going to need to build some kind of Thien cyclone for my planer to handle all this, does anyone have a build they recommend, or are the dimensions not like 100% critical?. Is there a performance difference between the ones that sit "in" the trashcan vs on top of it? Most of the ones I see online sit on top and are perfect snowflakes, I don't really want to spend a whole bunch of time on this if I can get 90% of the performance for less work and a slightly uglier looking build.
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Jan 19, 2018 07:36
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I built some free-standing garden boxes a couple of years ago to sit on a patch of concrete that came with my back yard, but the soil in them has settled and has slowly let through more and more water. At this point running the drip irrigation for less than a minute results in not-insignificant amounts of water dripping out of the bottom and pooling on my concrete. The solution I'm envisioning is to set up some sort of incline beneath each garden box to funnel excess water into the soil directly adjacent to the concrete patch. I'm envisioning 2 long wood pieces that come together like a V, spanning the width of the box and inclined slightly so that water just slides out in the direction that I want. But I'm not sure how to seal the point where the two pieces meet. Would a think layer of polyeurethane along that crevice be the right choice? I'd also like to hear alternative ideas that anyone feels like offering
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Jan 19, 2018 08:11
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Tres Burritos posted:I have also learned that I'm absolutely going to need to build some kind of Thien cyclone for my planer to handle all this, does anyone have a build they recommend, or are the dimensions not like 100% critical?. Is there a performance difference between the ones that sit "in" the trashcan vs on top of it? Most of the ones I see online sit on top and are perfect snowflakes, I don't really want to spend a whole bunch of time on this if I can get 90% of the performance for less work and a slightly uglier looking build. Check out Cosmas B and Marius Hornbergers builds, they've made several. I am real happy with my build that I based on theirs:  
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Jan 19, 2018 08:18
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this is ruul gud https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QHMBQMAl45I edit: though I would add a better clamping mechanism I guess Trauma Dog 3000 fucked around with this message at 09:24 on Jan 19, 2018 |
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Jan 19, 2018 09:21
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GEMorris posted:One, lol at that comment on your blog post. Those chisels were actually stolen out of my garage, and have since been replaced with a Narex set. I don't really notice a difference. Looking at the Sweetheart chisels, though, I think the round handles would bother me with them rolling around on the smaller sizes. As for saw sharpening, I think this is something we just disagree on. I don't think sharpening a saw is very hard, even for beginners. I'd even say it's easier than sharpening a plane blade. I sharpen most of my saws at least once per project, just like any other tool. You have a point about knowing what a properly sharpened and set saw feels like. I just know you can easily find good-looking backsaws for a lot cheaper than the Veritas ones, and since you're going to have to learn to sharpen anyway, why not get a cool vintage tool and save $50 per saw? Anyway, either option's fine, I just would've made a different decision in retrospect if I had had more knowledge about buying vintage tools at the time.
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Jan 19, 2018 13:09
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QuarkJets posted:I built some free-standing garden boxes a couple of years ago to sit on a patch of concrete that came with my back yard, but the soil in them has settled and has slowly let through more and more water. At this point running the drip irrigation for less than a minute results in not-insignificant amounts of water dripping out of the bottom and pooling on my concrete. How about an upgrade? A self watering bed would eliminate the water problem. https://www.familyhandyman.com/landscaping/planters/build-your-own-self-watering-planter/amp/
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Jan 19, 2018 14:57
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Javid posted:Takedown for transport would just involve zipping them out with my impact gun. I know there's a finite amount of in/out cycles those are gonna be good for, and have thought about using some kind of insert/machine screw setup for longevity. But if I use it enough to where I wear out the holes, I can just flip the legs upside down to double the life span, or buy one size fatter lags, or something. Worst case maybe I make new legs in 8 years or something, whatever, fir is cheap. Threaded inserts are pretty cheap though. https://www.amazon.com/Z-Threaded-Hex-Flush-Internal-Threads/dp/B002711TOG/ Or, if you've got a tap and die set, you can tap the wood and use machine screws. Might want to switch to a hardwood for at least the top of the legs though if you go that route.
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Jan 19, 2018 17:00
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Tres Burritos posted:It's a little pinker than those other photos and the smell is strong when cut / planed so mayyyybe some kind of cedar? I'm not 100% sure what cedar smells like tho. Looks a lot like red oak to me, both in color and grain. And if it was flooring in a previous life, oak makes a lot more sense than cedar.
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Jan 19, 2018 20:54
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It's missing the open pores of oak, though. Pine, hemlock, fir, and a lot of the other softwoods can have very pink heartwood, and the heart would be the most pungent. I'd put money on it being pine or a close relative.
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Jan 19, 2018 21:19
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