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I do a lot of installing door hardware on aluminum doors at work, but since most door hardware is designed for wood or steel doors, it usually involves a lot of installing mounting tabs in awkward locations. The one thing I haven't found a good way to do is to clean up the backside edges of a drilled hole, where I have limited access to said backside, but need it to be fairly smooth. I bought a "deburring tool" which has a little pivoting blade, but haven't had much luck with it. Typically I'm dealing with a 1/4" hole, 1/2" away from a 1"x 2" slot, and so far my best option is to fish an entire round file through the slot and awkwardly scooch it back and forth with my fingertips. Anyone have any suggestions?
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Feb 15, 2018 04:35
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| # ? May 31, 2024 08:41 |
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Did you try the deburring tool with swivel blades designed for cross holes, ie http://www.noga.com/Products/ld26/Light%20Duty%202.6mm%20Swivel%20blade/BN6001/N6_Blade_-_BN6001
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Feb 15, 2018 07:05
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B-Nasty posted:I guess Frankensteining the old mag lights probably isn't worth it when you can get decent rechargeable, LED flashlights for cheap from China. If you just want a flashlight yeah just buy one. Falco posted:It's still a fun project though, and for those that love to tinker it stings a bit to snag the cheapy and easy alternative when you've got this perfectly quality flashlight that could be tweaked to be badass. I hate being practical, but still want to play with things and check out how to make it work a different way. Exactly, make it a project and go nuts. Methylethylaldehyde posted:With a D-cell battery system, you could use 26650s and get 6Ah per battery, and fill out a bit more of the diameter. Apparently 32600s and 32650s are a thing, only 1mm smaller diameter than a D cell but I've never seen one in real life. Oh god I can feel a project coming on... E: oh god £20 per cell cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 10:53 on Feb 15, 2018 |
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Feb 15, 2018 10:50
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rawrr posted:Did you try the deburring tool with swivel blades designed for cross holes, ie http://www.noga.com/Products/ld26/Light%20Duty%202.6mm%20Swivel%20blade/BN6001/N6_Blade_-_BN6001 Seconding this. Noga/Shaviv make deburring tools for basically every task. I'm constantly amazed by their stuff. Their plastic deburring tools are amazing, too.
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Feb 15, 2018 15:45
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cakesmith handyman posted:Apparently 32600s and 32650s are a thing, only 1mm smaller diameter than a D cell but I've never seen one in real life. I hope you saw that the voltage is different.
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Feb 15, 2018 17:45
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I'm sure it will surprise no one to learn that there is a forum with 295,000 members devoted to flashlights. http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forum.php
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Feb 15, 2018 19:29
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canyoneer posted:I'm sure it will surprise no one to learn that there is a forum with 295,000 members devoted to flashlights.
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Feb 15, 2018 20:48
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rawrr posted:Did you try the deburring tool with swivel blades designed for cross holes, ie http://www.noga.com/Products/ld26/Light%20Duty%202.6mm%20Swivel%20blade/BN6001/N6_Blade_-_BN6001 Something very similar, at least: http://www.superiortool.com/tubing/deburringTool.html The blade swivels, but it doesn't really seem to actually reach the burrs- it mostly just bites into the edges of the hole. Is it really a cross hole when there's only a hole in the one surface?
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Feb 16, 2018 04:10
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There's a shorter one too http://www.noga.com/Products/ld26/Light%20Duty%202.6mm%20Swivel%20blade/BN3010/N3_Blade_-_BN3010 The standard blades won't reach the backside.
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Feb 16, 2018 04:30
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kid sinister posted:I hope you saw that the voltage is different. Hell yes. Actually just ordered some 3xAA => D cell adapters so I can stuff 12 NiMH AAs into it, I really need to bore the bad battery out of it so I can put it back together.
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Feb 16, 2018 15:01
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I put a LED bulb into the L flashlight, so it still gets amazing runtime. And I have plenty of headlamps. This was just more of a "I have this thing, and can throw it away, or for $3 I can make it usable and put it in my glovebox/trunk/bedside drawer. Plus, there IS plenty of room for electronics or lead shot.
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Feb 17, 2018 00:01
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Time to get an air compressor/nailers. I vaguely recall that the California Air ones get a lot of love for being so quiet, but I'm seeing that they tend to catch on fire? I also need the nailers, so seeing the combo deal may be the best bet? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UHNM60C/ref=sspa_dk_rar_aax_0?th=1 What do you all recommend?
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Feb 19, 2018 22:08
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are you only looking for a compressor for nailing? those are probably ok but it's worth looking at some of the cordless ryobi or milwaukee options if you only need it for nailing, they are a great option.
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Feb 19, 2018 22:13
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:Time to get an air compressor/nailers. I've never had an issue with my CA compressor, and it really is remarkably quiet. Of course, I don't know why anyone would want to leave the compressor connected to power when they were done using it. Mine will easily hold pressure without a tool connected effectively forever (until my next infrequent use), so it never made sense to leave it powered. If something were to leak, the pump would run until it burned itself out, or I discovered it.
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Feb 19, 2018 23:17
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You should empty your air compressor out when you're done using it
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Feb 20, 2018 04:47
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:You should empty your air compressor out when you're done using it Why? This seems to be a hotly debated topic with no clear winner. I don't necessarily pump it up to leave it, but I also don't go out of my way to bleed the existing pressure. As long as I'm not worried about a rupture (e.g. not in a vehicle or next to my body), I don't see the big deal.
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Feb 20, 2018 04:54
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From my (admittedly limited) understanding, the main thing you don't want is water staying in the tank for long periods, as that leads to rust and can cause the tank to fail. Since you get water in the tank as a byproduct of compressing air, you need to periodically drain the tank, which means letting the compressed air out too. I just got into the habit of, when I was done using the compressor for the day, turning it off, letting the air out, draining it, and then stowing it. I don't really get why this is a big deal -- the average homeowner really does not need to use their compressor at a moment's notice, so waiting some time for it to get up to operating pressure shouldn't be a problem. And there is a nonzero amount of safety gained from not having a pressurized vessel sitting around in your garage.
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Feb 20, 2018 05:02
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B-Nasty posted:Why? This seems to be a hotly debated topic with no clear winner.
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Feb 20, 2018 06:27
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Slugworth posted:I've honestly never seen it debated except perhaps with huge tanks like you'd have at a mechanics garage. A small tank that a homeowner will only use periodically? Why let condensate sit in it for even a brief period of time? Because you have an aluminum tank that isn’t going to corrode and you are paranoid about subjecting it to too many stress cycles, lest the metal fatigue and fail.
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Feb 20, 2018 06:55
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If you haven't emptied yours do it even if you don't think there is water in it. Put a towel below first. Its not about ruining your air compressor, which it will do gradually over time, its about shooting rust through everything
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Feb 20, 2018 07:01
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Platystemon posted:Because you have an aluminum tank that isn’t going to corrode and you are paranoid about subjecting it to too many stress cycles, lest the metal fatigue and fail. I don't see a household air compressor tank getting reheat treated after welding either, why spend all the $$ to save a tiny bit on weight? Also the aluminum will corrode in the as welded condition unless it is chem film'd + painted or anodized. EDIT: Looking around the site a bit more they do offer aluminum tanks. Harry Potter on Ice posted:If you haven't emptied yours do it even if you don't think there is water in it. Put a towel below first. Its not about ruining your air compressor, which it will do gradually over time, its about shooting rust through everything This person speaks the truth. I didnt empty mine for ~2 years of every now and then use in a humid environment. Several ounces of rust colored water came out. It stained my garage. Bad times. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 02:03 on Feb 21, 2018 |
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Feb 21, 2018 01:59
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Just a heads up that Amazon is doing a 1-day deal on some DeWalt tools. Not a lot there, but maybe someone here has really wanted a biscuit joiner?
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Feb 21, 2018 16:22
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DrBouvenstein posted:Just a heads up that Amazon is doing a 1-day deal on some DeWalt tools. Thanks, I think I'll pick up that router
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Feb 21, 2018 17:45
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Super Waffle posted:Thanks, I think I'll pick up that router I was actually thinking about that, too. I don't have one, but I was wondering if a plunge router would be better? If I only had one, I suppose maybe a kit that has interchangeable fixed and plunge bases? For that matter, what advantages does a fixed have over a plunge? It seems to me that the plunge can do whatever a fixed can do, right? But it can also plunge.
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Feb 21, 2018 20:33
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Generally my use case is plunge router for handheld routing, fixed for the router table. I used to swap my one router between the two bases (one of which was permanently installed on the underside of the router table) but I eventually got sick of that and just bought a second router. I assume the main tradeoff for using a plunge router is that lever that'll screw up your careful depth setting if you touch it. A fixed router is much more locked-in once set.
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Feb 21, 2018 21:48
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Generally my use case is plunge router for handheld routing, fixed for the router table. I used to swap my one router between the two bases (one of which was permanently installed on the underside of the router table) but I eventually got sick of that and just bought a second router. I've never had the lever on my Makita loosen up. It's a beast of a router.
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Feb 21, 2018 22:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Generally my use case is plunge router for handheld routing, fixed for the router table. I used to swap my one router between the two bases (one of which was permanently installed on the underside of the router table) but I eventually got sick of that and just bought a second router. The next step from here is buying more routers when you get sick of changing bits. I was talking to the old guy that run a used tool store here and he’d bought up a dudes little one man table making shop and he had 7 shapers so he never had downtime adjusting machines.
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Feb 21, 2018 22:33
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My current crap ryobi router is loose to the point of danger so I'm not really comfortable ever using it again. I intend to mount the DeWalt to my crappy ryobi router table until I can get a proper table saw extension table made. It looks like I can even pull out the spindle and mount it to a fancy router lift.
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Feb 21, 2018 22:34
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Mr. Mambold posted:I've never had the lever on my Makita loosen up. It's a beast of a router. I more meant that because the plunge router has a lever specifically for changing the depth, it's easier to accidentally change the depth by whacking the lever, whereas with a fixed router you have to undo a clamp / turn a screw, which is harder to do accidentally. But I have no idea if that's a realistic concern.  Go use a plunge router for everything, let us know how it goes!
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Feb 21, 2018 22:37
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I more meant that because the plunge router has a lever specifically for changing the depth, it's easier to accidentally change the depth by whacking the lever, whereas with a fixed router you have to undo a clamp / turn a screw, which is harder to do accidentally. Well I've got a 4 base Bosch laminate router I used for that stuff, and the base screw is unreliable. The router overall is a piece of poo poo. Then an old D-handle Rockwell I used to use for door hinging years ago, the tightening screw threads stripped or something, so I use a little C-clamp. I use the Makita like you do with one base fixed under a table and another one free.
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Feb 21, 2018 22:52
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Is this the thread were I learn about proper Leatherman maintenance?
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Feb 21, 2018 22:52
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What is there to know? Oil the pivots, clean the joints, sharpen the blades. Security Torx or the specialty bit for the pivots if they are loose. Anything broken? Send it in for warranty, they'll replace it
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Feb 22, 2018 00:40
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Buy a good sharpening stone (I bought this one in 2015 and it's still going strong, though the picture has changed a little from the one I have), get one of the special T9 security Torx bits for anything newer than the 2nd generation Wave (the one with the replaceable screwdriver bit, the nonreplaceable phillips bit is first gen wave), or dremel a slot for anything 1st gen wave or prior because that 5-point security bit is nonexistent, and remember to oil the damned thing on occasion. If you want a real trip, use water + some dish detergent in a small ultrasonic cleaner (I bought that model from Goodwill over five years ago and it works well), and watch my butt of gunk come out. After the cleaning and a thorough drying, you can either dip the entire leatherman in some oil, or do what I did and put it in oil in the ultrasonic cleaner because I believed it would penetrate the joints deeper or something (?). Seems to work well. The little scissor accessories and other tools with stamped/riveted hinges can be tightened up with an adjustable center punch. Put it on one of the lowest settings, and gently peen just inside the center (stationary) pin of the hinge to tighten it up. Hit it with a little 400 grit sandpaper to remove any slight burrs. All of this is bullshit though because Leatherman has a 25 year warranty but I sent in my dad's 30+ year old PID (the "original leatherman") and they just asked if they could replace it with a Wave. I sent in that same (first gen) wave years later and they replaced it with a Surge (!), the one that's 10% larger and has replaceable cutter bits. Anything that's Wave or newer is less than 25 years old so they'll just fix it for $4 in shipping.
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Feb 22, 2018 00:46
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CarForumPoster posted:This person speaks the truth. I didnt empty mine for ~2 years of every now and then use in a humid environment. Several ounces of rust colored water came out. It stained my garage. Bad times. Also its extra fun for you since its compressed and sprays out! If you get in a habit of emptying it every time you're using it if just for odd stuff around the house and once every few days on a job site it'll maintain its pressure forever. Also never buy lovely used air compressors at garage sales for the $50 they're always being sold for
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Feb 22, 2018 01:08
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Buy a good sharpening stone (I bought this one in 2015 and it's still going strong, though the picture has changed a little from the one I have), get one of the special T9 security Torx bits for anything newer than the 2nd generation Wave (the one with the replaceable screwdriver bit, the nonreplaceable phillips bit is first gen wave), or dremel a slot for anything 1st gen wave or prior because that 5-point security bit is nonexistent, and remember to oil the damned thing on occasion. Protip on the ultrasonic cleaner: put your oil or cleaner inside a plastic baggie, rather than filling the cleaner with it. The vibrations will penetrate the bag just fine.
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Feb 22, 2018 01:38
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Also its extra fun for you since its compressed and sprays out! I bought this Craftsman at a garage sale for like $80 in 2005 or so and it still runs. Incredibly loud and horribly heavy but works.
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Feb 22, 2018 01:46
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sharkytm posted:Protip on the ultrasonic cleaner: put your oil or cleaner inside a plastic baggie, rather than filling the cleaner with it. The vibrations will penetrate the bag just fine.  This will drastically reduce my oil usage.
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Feb 22, 2018 01:57
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CarForumPoster posted:I bought this Craftsman at a garage sale for like $80 in 2005 or so and it still runs. Incredibly loud and horribly heavy but works. Yea I hear this a lot. You can pick up an air compressor new for cheaper than that on sale. All air compressors are loud but I imagine an older used one doesn't retain its pressure as well so it's always kicking on. All I was saying is empty your air compressors out regularly as they rust inside very easily and you don't want to shoot rust through all your tools and you want your air compressor to last. Anyone who doesn't is naive or lazy or both
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Feb 25, 2018 18:12
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Yea I hear this a lot. You can pick up an air compressor new for cheaper than that on sale. All air compressors are loud but I imagine an older used one doesn't retain its pressure as well so it's always kicking on. Agreed. I have a timer controlled valve on the bottom of mine that opens once a day to make sure there's no water in it just in case I forget.
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Feb 25, 2018 19:17
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| # ? May 31, 2024 08:41 |
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You can get automatic devices for compressors, that will either detect water in the drain tube, or blow down based on runtime or a time clock. Large buildings that run on pneumatics have used them for decades. 
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Feb 25, 2018 19:57
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