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Steakandchips
Apr 30, 2009

canyoneer posted:


woodworkerssource.com has everything and will let you order in small quantities.

Nice, but is there a UK wood website? I live in Scotland.

Anyone have any recommendations?

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stealie72
Jan 10, 2007

canyoneer posted:

What you're looking for is "offset screwdriver". They're L or S shaped like the Ikea freebie hex wrenches.
https://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-2944-Offset-Screwdriver-3-Piece/dp/B000NY8OQU/
Alternate answer, a dollar store screwdriver, some pliers, and a strong heat source (such as a propane torch) will make you an offset driver, although heating it up enough to bend will likely weaken the crap out of the metal, but I assume this is not something requiring a ton of torque.

Alternate alternate answer, a driver bit and the correct sized socket (forget what size) and ratchet also works.

And some locktite to keep it in there.

~Coxy
Dec 9, 2003

R.I.P. Inter-OS Sass - b.2000AD d.2003AD

Grem posted:

My screws keep coming out of my doorknob, mostly due to kids being kids. My doorknob is round and it makes getting a screwdriver in to tighten the screws a pain in the rear end. Is there like a tiny, uh, sideways, screwdriver or anything?

This is my life right here.
Already shattered one leverset (probably due to the chineseium construction but still.)

I'm wondering whether I will regret loctite-ing the threads...

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Steakandchips posted:

Another question, where can I buy decent wood, for small projects, e.g. a box for holding 6 ink bottles, or a small wooden under-the-desk pedestal? I want it to be proper wood, hopefully oak to match my oak desk. No veneered rubbish!

Try your local lumber store.

~Coxy posted:

This is my life right here.
Already shattered one leverset (probably due to the chineseium construction but still.)

I'm wondering whether I will regret loctite-ing the threads...

Red, blue or purple?

Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


kid sinister posted:

Red, blue or purple?

Look, if you're not rainbow-loctiting, why even bother

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

~Coxy posted:

This is my life right here.
Already shattered one leverset (probably due to the chineseium construction but still.)

I'm wondering whether I will regret loctite-ing the threads...

You won't but the next person to live there will really hate you

Erwin
Feb 17, 2006

Grem posted:

My screws keep coming out of my doorknob, mostly due to kids being kids. My doorknob is round and it makes getting a screwdriver in to tighten the screws a pain in the rear end. Is there like a tiny, uh, sideways, screwdriver or anything?

Some knobs come off pretty easily so you can get to the screws behind them. Not all, but it's worth checking if you haven't.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
Just use blue loctite.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

always be closing posted:

My 20v dewalt batteries are either dead and not taking a charge( I left them in a toolbox in my garage all winter) or my charger isn't charging them.

When I plug them in I get a blinking red light on the charger which I believe is the sign they're charging, but when I put them on any of the tools they die almost immediately.

Is there a way to test each with my multimeter? I don't have access to any known good ones of either.

Find the battery contacts (probably labeled with a + and -, or if not that they're probably the two biggest ones) and measure the voltage. A "20v" battery should be around 18-19v at a middling state of charge, ~21v when just off the charger, and as low as 15v when dead flat. If it reads below 15v, it's over-discharged and it's dead.

FWIW on my Makita charger a blinking red light means the battery is bad -- it's reading a voltage below the level that it considers safe, so it is refusing to charge.

Something I have occasionally done to recover a dead battery, though: find a good one that has a full charge. Using a pair of alligator clips, hook it up to the dead battery (negative to negative, positive to positive) for like ten seconds. A great deal of current will flow so do not do this for any length of time, and do it in a fireproof area. In the ten seconds, the dead battery will take a surface charge that will make it appear to have a higher voltage than it really does, though this will rapidly fall off. Quickly plug the dead battery into the charger. The logic will see the higher voltage, assume the battery is okay, and start working on it. If the battery wasn't actually badly damaged, but just a little below the limit, this may recover the cells and get them back to a usable capacity.

Don't do this unattended and keep a fire extinguisher ready. Sometimes there is a good reason that the charger is refusing to charge.

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Mar 29, 2018

always be closing
Jul 16, 2005

Sagebrush posted:

Find the battery contacts (probably labeled with a + and -, or if not that they're probably the two biggest ones) and measure the voltage. A "20v" battery should be around 18-19v at a middling state of charge, ~21v when just off the charger, and as low as 15v when dead flat. If it reads below 15v, it's over-discharged and it's dead.


Thanks, one read13.88 and the other read 14.9, so I guess they are toast. That's right off the charger as well. Looks like I found a use for my eBay coupon haha.

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Those are probably recoverable if you use that One Olde Weirde Trick I mentioned in my post. 13.88 is 2.7 volts per cell and 14.9 is just a hair under 3 -- you probably haven't reached the cell damage point just yet.

If they explode and burn down your house it's not my fault though.

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe
Does anyone know what this is?

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Looks like a pair of end nippers with weird handles? :shrug:

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011
It's the tool that crimps wire bale bands.

https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/packaging/strapping/strapping-carts/crimper-polypropylene-strapping

SouthShoreSamurai
Apr 28, 2009

It is a tale,
Told by an idiot, full of sound and fury,
Signifying nothing.


Fun Shoe

Thanks! We found it in a random postal service bin, and that's what I thought it was but had no idea what it was called.

always be closing
Jul 16, 2005
An upholsterer's hog ring pliers?

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
Definitely looks like a strapping clip crimper.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe
Banding crimpers. We use them all the time.

umbrage
Sep 5, 2007

beast mode
Hey folks, my tools and spare parts have reached a sort of critical mass of separate bags, bins, boxes and chests. I'm looking to organize everything, but what I'm seeing at Home Depot/Lowes looks pretty flimsy and uninspiring.

I have a metal toolbox now that holds most of my Actual Tools (wrenches, drivers, sockets, files, specialty tools like multimeters, clamps), but it's a metal three-drawer Craftsman jobby (grew up in a Craftsman Tools house) that weighs like twice as much as the tools inside. Everything else (fasteners, glues, straps) is basically constantly stuffed in nesting bags of random provenance.

I'm a city dweller that won't have a garage/workspace anytime soon, so weight and portability is pretty important, I've discovered. So can anyone recommend a brand or two that has good plastic toolboxes that have actual interior organization, and are ideally stackable and/or expandable? Most of the plastic sets I've seen are jobsite kits that are mostly just square buckets.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
if you need it to be portable modular jobsite boxes are pretty good, this site has a guide to the different types but this particular guide is a few years old and might be a bit out of date

http://toolguyd.com/best-modular-tool-box-system/?utm_source=topmenu&utm_medium=web&utm_campaign=buying-guides

milwaukee came out with their own style of these things last year and seem to have positive reviews.

http://toolguyd.com/milwaukee-packout-tool-boxes-photo-introduction/

stanley too

http://toolguyd.com/stanley-fatmax-tstak-tool-box-tower/

these things can get spendy quick so you might want to hold out for a deal, i think they were giving good discounts on dewalt last year at home depot's black friday sale

bobua
Mar 23, 2003
I'd trade it all for just a little more.

For small parts organization Amazon sells their own brand of stackable storage containers. They're about 10 bucks and appear to be about as good as you can get before moving on to something like sortimo.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

umbrage posted:

Hey folks, my tools and spare parts have reached a sort of critical mass of separate bags, bins, boxes and chests. I'm looking to organize everything, but what I'm seeing at Home Depot/Lowes looks pretty flimsy and uninspiring.

I have a metal toolbox now that holds most of my Actual Tools (wrenches, drivers, sockets, files, specialty tools like multimeters, clamps), but it's a metal three-drawer Craftsman jobby (grew up in a Craftsman Tools house) that weighs like twice as much as the tools inside. Everything else (fasteners, glues, straps) is basically constantly stuffed in nesting bags of random provenance.

I'm a city dweller that won't have a garage/workspace anytime soon, so weight and portability is pretty important, I've discovered. So can anyone recommend a brand or two that has good plastic toolboxes that have actual interior organization, and are ideally stackable and/or expandable? Most of the plastic sets I've seen are jobsite kits that are mostly just square buckets.

You know, for organizing the small stuff like screws and fasteners, you might even want to think about fishing tackle boxes.

umbrage
Sep 5, 2007

beast mode

kid sinister posted:

You know, for organizing the small stuff like screws and fasteners, you might even want to think about fishing tackle boxes.

Yeah, it's funny how the same plastic box can end up in the fishing, crafts, and tool aisle in the same megastore, just with a different label.

BraveUlysses those ToolGuyd links are clutch, thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for.

Planet X
Dec 10, 2003

GOOD MORNING
Do I need a dremel multi max oscillating tool to remove grout or can I use my existing dremel with the bit and guide? We have two bathrooms to replace grout so I'll invest if needed but would like to know if it's worth getting over use of my standard dremel

Falco
Dec 31, 2003

Freewheeling At Last

Planet X posted:

Do I need a dremel multi max oscillating tool to remove grout or can I use my existing dremel with the bit and guide? We have two bathrooms to replace grout so I'll invest if needed but would like to know if it's worth getting over use of my standard dremel

I bought a Harbor Freight variable speed oscillating tool and the Dremel grout removal half moon shaped blade and it made quick work of grinding out the grout. I wouldn’t do it with the tiny Dremel bit at all. You would be there for weeks doing that. Just make sure you have a nice mask to wear as the grout dust goes everywhere.

This is the blade we used on ours:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Multi-Max-1-8-in-Grout-Removal-Oscillating-Tool-Blade-MM500/202074043

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




A surprise raise has taken me from "scouring craigslist for something that isn't falling apart" and "weighing out what parts really need to be replaced on the 11 year old Dewalt I pulled out of the trash" and into "gently caress it, I'ma buy a $600 table saw" territory

I could get a sweet loving well maintained Delta for $100 from my friend, but my current housing situation doesn't have space to run a hybrid saw, so I'm looking at jobsite/contractor saws

All my research has basically pointed me at
The Dewalt 7491
and
The Bosch 4100

This is mostly for some beginner-level woodworking and probably like 80% of the time it's just going to be hacking up plywood

Anyone got any experience with either or any other recomendations?

The fence on the Dewalt is drat loving nice



And the Dewalt I pulled out of the trash is going to eventually get repurposed into a router table :)

Koryk
Jun 5, 2007
I think Lowe’s is getting rid of their 7491s for a new model. I was there and they had them marked down to 550 and the floor model for $400, which I bought. Might be worth stopping in at a one or two to look.

Lowe’s is the only store I know of that actually prices clearance stuff to sell.

Queen_Combat
Jan 15, 2011

Planet X posted:

Do I need a dremel multi max oscillating tool to remove grout or can I use my existing dremel with the bit and guide? We have two bathrooms to replace grout so I'll invest if needed but would like to know if it's worth getting over use of my standard dremel

Congratulations! You have in front of you one of three or four actual jobs where an oscillating multi-tool is not only capable of doing the job, but the best tool for doing the job, not counting renting a professional tool for $50 at the desk.

I bought an oscillating multi-tool and it sat for nearly a year without any real use because, well, all the rest of my tools did everything better. And then, one day, I had to cut inside corners on a piece of installed wood, and it saved my rear end. Doing grout is one of the other jobs that it's really the best for.

Get the semicircular, carbide grout tool. Or three.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002

Sockser posted:

A surprise raise has taken me from "scouring craigslist for something that isn't falling apart" and "weighing out what parts really need to be replaced on the 11 year old Dewalt I pulled out of the trash" and into "gently caress it, I'ma buy a $600 table saw" territory

I could get a sweet loving well maintained Delta for $100 from my friend, but my current housing situation doesn't have space to run a hybrid saw, so I'm looking at jobsite/contractor saws

All my research has basically pointed me at
The Dewalt 7491
and
The Bosch 4100

This is mostly for some beginner-level woodworking and probably like 80% of the time it's just going to be hacking up plywood

Anyone got any experience with either or any other recomendations?

The fence on the Dewalt is drat loving nice



And the Dewalt I pulled out of the trash is going to eventually get repurposed into a router table :)

i like my hitachi table saw but i'm very much a novice when it comes to woodworking. got it with stand for 300 bucks around black friday.

it has a fence like the dewalt, comes with a stand and has decent table extensions. slow start motor to minimize noise. you can search this thread for my posts to see my review of it with a bit more detail.

one of the biggest critiques of the dewalt saws that i saw when i was shopping was the feed in distance was extremely short, its very close to the front of the table on a couple models.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.
Got what I think is a pretty good deal on a router + router table a few days ago from CL.




$50 for that, plus accessories like inserts, a couple bits, etc...

And the router table is already mounted on a small bench with some storage underneath for everything...all I have to do is maybe attach some casters so I can move it around easier.

B-Nasty
May 25, 2005

Metal Geir Skogul posted:

Congratulations! You have in front of you one of three or four actual jobs where an oscillating multi-tool is not only capable of doing the job, but the best tool for doing the job, not counting renting a professional tool for $50 at the desk.

I love mine for sanding down drywall patches before painting. I like to slab joint compound on thick and then come back and sand it all smooth, and the triangular sanding pads are great for getting in corners/tight areas.

I typically hold a vacuum hose nearby with the other hand to keep dust from going everywhere. The $25 or whatever that tool cost me at HF has made my life immeasurably better.

Planet X
Dec 10, 2003

GOOD MORNING
Totally appreciate it. Apparently my Fiancee's Dad has one, so we're going to give it a shot!

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Sockser posted:

A surprise raise has taken me from "scouring craigslist for something that isn't falling apart" and "weighing out what parts really need to be replaced on the 11 year old Dewalt I pulled out of the trash" and into "gently caress it, I'ma buy a $600 table saw" territory

I could get a sweet loving well maintained Delta for $100 from my friend, but my current housing situation doesn't have space to run a hybrid saw, so I'm looking at jobsite/contractor saws

All my research has basically pointed me at
The Dewalt 7491
and
The Bosch 4100

This is mostly for some beginner-level woodworking and probably like 80% of the time it's just going to be hacking up plywood

Anyone got any experience with either or any other recomendations?

The fence on the Dewalt is drat loving nice



And the Dewalt I pulled out of the trash is going to eventually get repurposed into a router table :)

Went and played around with both at the Lowe’s by my job, liked the Dewalt a lot more, ended up getting it. Put it together last night, made a couple test cuts today, still need to double check everything is square and aligned and everything but I like it quite a bit so far.

Sockser posted:

Went and played around with both at the Lowe’s by my job, liked the Dewalt a lot more, ended up getting it. Put it together last night, made a couple test cuts today, still need to double check everything is square and aligned and everything but I like it quite a bit so far.

Sockser fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Apr 16, 2018

ihop
Jul 23, 2001
King of the Mexicans
What makes a jointer/planer different from a plane jointer?

HarmB
Jun 19, 2006



ihop posted:

What makes a jointer/planer different from a plane jointer?

A jointer can take any board and make it flat. A planer makes the opposite side of a board match the first.

So if you have a warped board and run it through a planer, the sides will be parallel to each other, but probably warped.

And if you run a warped board through a jointer, one side will be flat. If you then flip it and jointer(join?) the other side, they'll both be flat, but perhaps not parallel.


So the idea is to run the jointer on one side to get it flat, and then use the planer to make the opposite side match.


Note: If you're outside the US, a jointer is a planer, and a planer is thicknesser.

ihop
Jul 23, 2001
King of the Mexicans
Yeah I understand the difference between jointing and planing. I see some tools listed as jointers but then I see some that look very similar but are listed as jointer/planers and wondered what the difference is, if any.

HarmB
Jun 19, 2006



ihop posted:

Yeah I understand the difference between jointing and planing. I see some tools listed as jointers but then I see some that look very similar but are listed as jointer/planers and wondered what the difference is, if any.

Some machines have the ability to both joint and plane because you can feed the wood to the top or bottom of the blades. In this video, you can see him first joint, and then plane with the same machine.

~Coxy
Dec 9, 2003

R.I.P. Inter-OS Sass - b.2000AD d.2003AD

~Coxy posted:

This is my life right here.
Already shattered one leverset (probably due to the chineseium construction but still.)

I'm wondering whether I will regret loctite-ing the threads...

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

You won't but the next person to live there will really hate you

I found the matching leverset; you have to special order it in and in privacy it costs $69 (nice.)
(No wonder the front door leverset doesn't match every other door.)
Loctite it is.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.
Good recommendation for miter saw blades? I need a fine-toothed one to replace a bunch of trim/baseboard in my hallway, and just wondering if there's a "decent, but not super expensive" one that's maybe a step or so above "contractor grade."

If it matters, it's a 12" blade.

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Zosologist
Mar 30, 2007

DrBouvenstein posted:

Good recommendation for miter saw blades? I need a fine-toothed one to replace a bunch of trim/baseboard in my hallway, and just wondering if there's a "decent, but not super expensive" one that's maybe a step or so above "contractor grade."

If it matters, it's a 12" blade.

Freud D12100X 100 Tooth Diablo Ultra Fine Circular Saw Blade for Wood and Wood Composites, 12-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C3HVIWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.mZAbTH6C1XG

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