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canyoneer posted:
Nice, but is there a UK wood website? I live in Scotland. Anyone have any recommendations?
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# ? Mar 28, 2018 21:43 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 05:13 |
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canyoneer posted:What you're looking for is "offset screwdriver". They're L or S shaped like the Ikea freebie hex wrenches. Alternate alternate answer, a driver bit and the correct sized socket (forget what size) and ratchet also works. And some locktite to keep it in there.
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# ? Mar 28, 2018 21:48 |
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Grem posted:My screws keep coming out of my doorknob, mostly due to kids being kids. My doorknob is round and it makes getting a screwdriver in to tighten the screws a pain in the rear end. Is there like a tiny, uh, sideways, screwdriver or anything? This is my life right here. Already shattered one leverset (probably due to the chineseium construction but still.) I'm wondering whether I will regret loctite-ing the threads...
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# ? Mar 29, 2018 03:03 |
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Steakandchips posted:Another question, where can I buy decent wood, for small projects, e.g. a box for holding 6 ink bottles, or a small wooden under-the-desk pedestal? I want it to be proper wood, hopefully oak to match my oak desk. No veneered rubbish! Try your local lumber store. ~Coxy posted:This is my life right here. Red, blue or purple?
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# ? Mar 29, 2018 03:07 |
kid sinister posted:Red, blue or purple? Look, if you're not rainbow-loctiting, why even bother
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# ? Mar 29, 2018 03:10 |
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~Coxy posted:This is my life right here. You won't but the next person to live there will really hate you
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# ? Mar 29, 2018 03:13 |
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Grem posted:My screws keep coming out of my doorknob, mostly due to kids being kids. My doorknob is round and it makes getting a screwdriver in to tighten the screws a pain in the rear end. Is there like a tiny, uh, sideways, screwdriver or anything? Some knobs come off pretty easily so you can get to the screws behind them. Not all, but it's worth checking if you haven't.
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# ? Mar 29, 2018 03:49 |
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Just use blue loctite.
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# ? Mar 29, 2018 03:51 |
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always be closing posted:My 20v dewalt batteries are either dead and not taking a charge( I left them in a toolbox in my garage all winter) or my charger isn't charging them. Find the battery contacts (probably labeled with a + and -, or if not that they're probably the two biggest ones) and measure the voltage. A "20v" battery should be around 18-19v at a middling state of charge, ~21v when just off the charger, and as low as 15v when dead flat. If it reads below 15v, it's over-discharged and it's dead. FWIW on my Makita charger a blinking red light means the battery is bad -- it's reading a voltage below the level that it considers safe, so it is refusing to charge. Something I have occasionally done to recover a dead battery, though: find a good one that has a full charge. Using a pair of alligator clips, hook it up to the dead battery (negative to negative, positive to positive) for like ten seconds. A great deal of current will flow so do not do this for any length of time, and do it in a fireproof area. In the ten seconds, the dead battery will take a surface charge that will make it appear to have a higher voltage than it really does, though this will rapidly fall off. Quickly plug the dead battery into the charger. The logic will see the higher voltage, assume the battery is okay, and start working on it. If the battery wasn't actually badly damaged, but just a little below the limit, this may recover the cells and get them back to a usable capacity. Don't do this unattended and keep a fire extinguisher ready. Sometimes there is a good reason that the charger is refusing to charge. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 05:16 on Mar 29, 2018 |
# ? Mar 29, 2018 05:13 |
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Sagebrush posted:Find the battery contacts (probably labeled with a + and -, or if not that they're probably the two biggest ones) and measure the voltage. A "20v" battery should be around 18-19v at a middling state of charge, ~21v when just off the charger, and as low as 15v when dead flat. If it reads below 15v, it's over-discharged and it's dead. Thanks, one read13.88 and the other read 14.9, so I guess they are toast. That's right off the charger as well. Looks like I found a use for my eBay coupon haha.
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# ? Mar 29, 2018 11:23 |
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Those are probably recoverable if you use that One Olde Weirde Trick I mentioned in my post. 13.88 is 2.7 volts per cell and 14.9 is just a hair under 3 -- you probably haven't reached the cell damage point just yet. If they explode and burn down your house it's not my fault though.
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# ? Mar 30, 2018 04:46 |
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Does anyone know what this is?
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# ? Mar 31, 2018 00:37 |
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Looks like a pair of end nippers with weird handles?
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# ? Mar 31, 2018 00:44 |
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It's the tool that crimps wire bale bands. https://www.globalindustrial.com/p/packaging/strapping/strapping-carts/crimper-polypropylene-strapping
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# ? Mar 31, 2018 00:45 |
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:It's the tool that crimps wire bale bands. Thanks! We found it in a random postal service bin, and that's what I thought it was but had no idea what it was called.
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# ? Mar 31, 2018 00:48 |
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An upholsterer's hog ring pliers?
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# ? Mar 31, 2018 00:50 |
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Definitely looks like a strapping clip crimper.
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# ? Mar 31, 2018 15:42 |
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Banding crimpers. We use them all the time.
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# ? Apr 1, 2018 17:45 |
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Hey folks, my tools and spare parts have reached a sort of critical mass of separate bags, bins, boxes and chests. I'm looking to organize everything, but what I'm seeing at Home Depot/Lowes looks pretty flimsy and uninspiring. I have a metal toolbox now that holds most of my Actual Tools (wrenches, drivers, sockets, files, specialty tools like multimeters, clamps), but it's a metal three-drawer Craftsman jobby (grew up in a Craftsman Tools house) that weighs like twice as much as the tools inside. Everything else (fasteners, glues, straps) is basically constantly stuffed in nesting bags of random provenance. I'm a city dweller that won't have a garage/workspace anytime soon, so weight and portability is pretty important, I've discovered. So can anyone recommend a brand or two that has good plastic toolboxes that have actual interior organization, and are ideally stackable and/or expandable? Most of the plastic sets I've seen are jobsite kits that are mostly just square buckets.
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# ? Apr 4, 2018 17:33 |
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if you need it to be portable modular jobsite boxes are pretty good, this site has a guide to the different types but this particular guide is a few years old and might be a bit out of date http://toolguyd.com/best-modular-tool-box-system/?utm_source=topmenu&utm_medium=web&utm_campaign=buying-guides milwaukee came out with their own style of these things last year and seem to have positive reviews. http://toolguyd.com/milwaukee-packout-tool-boxes-photo-introduction/ stanley too http://toolguyd.com/stanley-fatmax-tstak-tool-box-tower/ these things can get spendy quick so you might want to hold out for a deal, i think they were giving good discounts on dewalt last year at home depot's black friday sale
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# ? Apr 4, 2018 18:22 |
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For small parts organization Amazon sells their own brand of stackable storage containers. They're about 10 bucks and appear to be about as good as you can get before moving on to something like sortimo.
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# ? Apr 4, 2018 18:28 |
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umbrage posted:Hey folks, my tools and spare parts have reached a sort of critical mass of separate bags, bins, boxes and chests. I'm looking to organize everything, but what I'm seeing at Home Depot/Lowes looks pretty flimsy and uninspiring. You know, for organizing the small stuff like screws and fasteners, you might even want to think about fishing tackle boxes.
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# ? Apr 4, 2018 19:10 |
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kid sinister posted:You know, for organizing the small stuff like screws and fasteners, you might even want to think about fishing tackle boxes. Yeah, it's funny how the same plastic box can end up in the fishing, crafts, and tool aisle in the same megastore, just with a different label. BraveUlysses those ToolGuyd links are clutch, thanks! That's exactly what I was looking for.
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# ? Apr 4, 2018 22:23 |
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Do I need a dremel multi max oscillating tool to remove grout or can I use my existing dremel with the bit and guide? We have two bathrooms to replace grout so I'll invest if needed but would like to know if it's worth getting over use of my standard dremel
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# ? Apr 5, 2018 03:28 |
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Planet X posted:Do I need a dremel multi max oscillating tool to remove grout or can I use my existing dremel with the bit and guide? We have two bathrooms to replace grout so I'll invest if needed but would like to know if it's worth getting over use of my standard dremel I bought a Harbor Freight variable speed oscillating tool and the Dremel grout removal half moon shaped blade and it made quick work of grinding out the grout. I wouldn’t do it with the tiny Dremel bit at all. You would be there for weeks doing that. Just make sure you have a nice mask to wear as the grout dust goes everywhere. This is the blade we used on ours: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dremel-Multi-Max-1-8-in-Grout-Removal-Oscillating-Tool-Blade-MM500/202074043
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# ? Apr 5, 2018 04:08 |
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A surprise raise has taken me from "scouring craigslist for something that isn't falling apart" and "weighing out what parts really need to be replaced on the 11 year old Dewalt I pulled out of the trash" and into "gently caress it, I'ma buy a $600 table saw" territory I could get a sweet loving well maintained Delta for $100 from my friend, but my current housing situation doesn't have space to run a hybrid saw, so I'm looking at jobsite/contractor saws All my research has basically pointed me at The Dewalt 7491 and The Bosch 4100 This is mostly for some beginner-level woodworking and probably like 80% of the time it's just going to be hacking up plywood Anyone got any experience with either or any other recomendations? The fence on the Dewalt is drat loving nice And the Dewalt I pulled out of the trash is going to eventually get repurposed into a router table
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# ? Apr 5, 2018 04:22 |
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I think Lowe’s is getting rid of their 7491s for a new model. I was there and they had them marked down to 550 and the floor model for $400, which I bought. Might be worth stopping in at a one or two to look. Lowe’s is the only store I know of that actually prices clearance stuff to sell.
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# ? Apr 5, 2018 04:28 |
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Planet X posted:Do I need a dremel multi max oscillating tool to remove grout or can I use my existing dremel with the bit and guide? We have two bathrooms to replace grout so I'll invest if needed but would like to know if it's worth getting over use of my standard dremel Congratulations! You have in front of you one of three or four actual jobs where an oscillating multi-tool is not only capable of doing the job, but the best tool for doing the job, not counting renting a professional tool for $50 at the desk. I bought an oscillating multi-tool and it sat for nearly a year without any real use because, well, all the rest of my tools did everything better. And then, one day, I had to cut inside corners on a piece of installed wood, and it saved my rear end. Doing grout is one of the other jobs that it's really the best for. Get the semicircular, carbide grout tool. Or three.
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# ? Apr 5, 2018 04:33 |
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Sockser posted:A surprise raise has taken me from "scouring craigslist for something that isn't falling apart" and "weighing out what parts really need to be replaced on the 11 year old Dewalt I pulled out of the trash" and into "gently caress it, I'ma buy a $600 table saw" territory i like my hitachi table saw but i'm very much a novice when it comes to woodworking. got it with stand for 300 bucks around black friday. it has a fence like the dewalt, comes with a stand and has decent table extensions. slow start motor to minimize noise. you can search this thread for my posts to see my review of it with a bit more detail. one of the biggest critiques of the dewalt saws that i saw when i was shopping was the feed in distance was extremely short, its very close to the front of the table on a couple models.
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# ? Apr 5, 2018 04:46 |
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Got what I think is a pretty good deal on a router + router table a few days ago from CL. $50 for that, plus accessories like inserts, a couple bits, etc... And the router table is already mounted on a small bench with some storage underneath for everything...all I have to do is maybe attach some casters so I can move it around easier.
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# ? Apr 5, 2018 15:38 |
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Congratulations! You have in front of you one of three or four actual jobs where an oscillating multi-tool is not only capable of doing the job, but the best tool for doing the job, not counting renting a professional tool for $50 at the desk. I love mine for sanding down drywall patches before painting. I like to slab joint compound on thick and then come back and sand it all smooth, and the triangular sanding pads are great for getting in corners/tight areas. I typically hold a vacuum hose nearby with the other hand to keep dust from going everywhere. The $25 or whatever that tool cost me at HF has made my life immeasurably better.
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# ? Apr 6, 2018 00:06 |
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Totally appreciate it. Apparently my Fiancee's Dad has one, so we're going to give it a shot!
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# ? Apr 6, 2018 01:24 |
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Sockser posted:A surprise raise has taken me from "scouring craigslist for something that isn't falling apart" and "weighing out what parts really need to be replaced on the 11 year old Dewalt I pulled out of the trash" and into "gently caress it, I'ma buy a $600 table saw" territory Went and played around with both at the Lowe’s by my job, liked the Dewalt a lot more, ended up getting it. Put it together last night, made a couple test cuts today, still need to double check everything is square and aligned and everything but I like it quite a bit so far. Sockser posted:Went and played around with both at the Lowe’s by my job, liked the Dewalt a lot more, ended up getting it. Put it together last night, made a couple test cuts today, still need to double check everything is square and aligned and everything but I like it quite a bit so far. Sockser fucked around with this message at 16:30 on Apr 16, 2018 |
# ? Apr 7, 2018 19:50 |
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What makes a jointer/planer different from a plane jointer?
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# ? Apr 8, 2018 00:09 |
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ihop posted:What makes a jointer/planer different from a plane jointer? A jointer can take any board and make it flat. A planer makes the opposite side of a board match the first. So if you have a warped board and run it through a planer, the sides will be parallel to each other, but probably warped. And if you run a warped board through a jointer, one side will be flat. If you then flip it and jointer(join?) the other side, they'll both be flat, but perhaps not parallel. So the idea is to run the jointer on one side to get it flat, and then use the planer to make the opposite side match. Note: If you're outside the US, a jointer is a planer, and a planer is thicknesser.
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# ? Apr 8, 2018 03:08 |
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Yeah I understand the difference between jointing and planing. I see some tools listed as jointers but then I see some that look very similar but are listed as jointer/planers and wondered what the difference is, if any.
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# ? Apr 8, 2018 06:04 |
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ihop posted:Yeah I understand the difference between jointing and planing. I see some tools listed as jointers but then I see some that look very similar but are listed as jointer/planers and wondered what the difference is, if any. Some machines have the ability to both joint and plane because you can feed the wood to the top or bottom of the blades. In this video, you can see him first joint, and then plane with the same machine.
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# ? Apr 8, 2018 07:05 |
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~Coxy posted:This is my life right here. Harry Potter on Ice posted:You won't but the next person to live there will really hate you I found the matching leverset; you have to special order it in and in privacy it costs $69 (nice.) (No wonder the front door leverset doesn't match every other door.) Loctite it is.
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# ? Apr 9, 2018 02:54 |
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Good recommendation for miter saw blades? I need a fine-toothed one to replace a bunch of trim/baseboard in my hallway, and just wondering if there's a "decent, but not super expensive" one that's maybe a step or so above "contractor grade." If it matters, it's a 12" blade.
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# ? Apr 9, 2018 17:40 |
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# ? May 31, 2024 05:13 |
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DrBouvenstein posted:Good recommendation for miter saw blades? I need a fine-toothed one to replace a bunch of trim/baseboard in my hallway, and just wondering if there's a "decent, but not super expensive" one that's maybe a step or so above "contractor grade." Freud D12100X 100 Tooth Diablo Ultra Fine Circular Saw Blade for Wood and Wood Composites, 12-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C3HVIWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_V.mZAbTH6C1XG
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# ? Apr 10, 2018 15:54 |