TooMuchAbstraction posted:Sure, mortise and tenon would work and half-inch sounds like plenty for the loads you're looking at, but you're right, it'd be a lot more work. That's why I suggested just doing dados instead; they're easy to cut and you only need to cut one of the two pieces being joined. Oh duh, I was visualizing a long vertical dado down the middle of each vertical stringer for some reason and thinking 'no thats a lot of chiseling'. I can see it now  Yeah that sounds pretty good.
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Apr 11, 2018 17:42
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Regardless of how you construct your joints, without a back panel you are going to want some cross bracing of some sort to resist racking forces. Doing mortise and tennon joints will def increase strength (and build time) but given the size of those parts, I don't have high confidence that will be enough. Take a look at how Ikea deals with this with their wooden garage shelving (they use a wire x crossbrace)
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Apr 11, 2018 17:42
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GEMorris posted:Regardless of how you construct your joints, without a back panel you are going to want some cross bracing of some sort to resist racking forces. Doing mortise and tennon joints will def increase strength (and build time) but given the size of those parts, I don't have high confidence that will be enough. Would a few extra vertical stringers on each of the end vertical faces work? Could do these in a different color wood than the other main vertical posts and dowel them into the horizontal stringers to look kinda cool. Edit: looked at the Ikea stuff. Ideally would like this to be accessible from either of the long faces if possible. It's going to be free standing parallel with your path in through the front door. The high shelf will be up against the wall right by where the door opens. I'll take a picture of where it's going / how its going to be oriented when I get home if that helps. That Works fucked around with this message at 17:53 on Apr 11, 2018 |
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Apr 11, 2018 17:45
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I'm building a shoe bench thing for my entryway. https://www.instagram.com/p/BhaiTpynJ7T/
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Apr 11, 2018 18:22
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My girlfriend wants a "thing" for her nail polish, so I put this together in Sketchup real quick  Pretend all those red cylinders are nail polish, and pretend I had the attention span to make rabbets for the back in Sketchup. Shouldn't be any problems putting a thing together like this, yeah? What would be the best way to hang a thing like this? Too thin to cut a keyhole, too small to justify a french cleat. Can I get away with some dinky picture frame hangers?
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Apr 13, 2018 03:02
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I'd just use 3/8" plywood for the back, and make it cover the entire back of the piece, instead of stopping short of the bottom/top shelves. That way it'll provide racking resistance, plus assembly will be easier. Connect the shelves to the back with screws, and more screws for holding it to the wall. You won't be able to make those screws invisible, sadly, but honestly I doubt anyone will really notice them. If you're dead-set against having visible fasteners, picture frame hangers would probably work. I don't have a good feel for how much weight that much nail polish represents. You could also secure some wire to the back of the piece and then hang it from a couple of screws driven into the wall; that'd probably be easier to get level than standard picture frame hangers.
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Apr 13, 2018 03:16
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Some quick math works that out to about 8.5 pounds of nail polish, which seems absurd, but 55 bottles @ ~2.5 oz each. Figure the wood would be another 15-20? I'd rather not screw it into my wall if I can get away with it, and I was planning on just doing the sides with glue and brads. Do you think it'd be totally critical to use screws?
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Apr 13, 2018 03:22
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Glue and brads would also work. I suggested screws because they hold well, have no drying time, and can be undone if necessary, not because they're the best or only choice. Screws would be the strongest realistic option for attaching the piece to the wall, but again, not the only one.
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Apr 13, 2018 04:09
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May I suggest a French cleat for hanging something like that?
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Apr 13, 2018 15:41
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You could also nest the french cleat into the back board if you are worried about the thickness. Sorta like this  You'd need some gap to slide it in, but if you are clever you could maybe align it with the shelves so it's not visible from the front.
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Apr 13, 2018 16:24
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I think I've got my shoe bench thing in shape to start applying finish. It's constructed with a mixture of materials since I just had to go with whatever I could pickup at the local Home Depot-- but the carcus is 3/4" maple veneer plywood, the backer is 1/2" birch, and the doors are some type of pine. All the stuff I've finished recently, I've put on a coat or two of Bullseye seal coat shellac, followed by several coats of a waterbased poly. I've got a can of General Finishes satin waterbased polyurethane that I was thinking about using. However, a lot of the youtube woodworkers I watch seem to use either a wipe on poly or whatever Minwax Fast Drying polyurethane is. I gather that these are oil based polyurethanes, but I don't think I've ever applied one. All I really know about them is that they can have a lot of VOCs and usually much longer drying times. That being said, they appear to be pretty easy to apply. What would you guys use on a piece of furniture that will get a little traffic from sitting on it, or storing shoes?  
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Apr 13, 2018 17:05
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I've used aluminum french cleats (you can also find them as z-clips) like this: Only a few bucks and very low profile. You can get 10 pairs of them on amazon for $7 here: https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-EAM-375-Z-Clips-20-Pack/dp/B005UXIXWY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1523635630&sr=8-6&keywords=z+clip
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Apr 13, 2018 17:08
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swampface posted:I've used aluminum french cleats (you can also find them as z-clips) like this: poo poo, I never knew what these things were. Ran to home depot and bought a big ol chunk of it. Thanks mate!
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Apr 13, 2018 19:55
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I got the wall mounted tool shelf thing done and coated up with BLO. It came out OK. I tried 2 different methods for cutting dados, fully chiseling them then finishing with a router plane or cutting them with a backsaw to depth then chiseling out across the grain and finishing with the router plane. 2nd method was definitely faster, but overall it seemed to end up being a bit looser fit and a little harder to control the dado width as precisely. Guess I can use these for cruder stuff and the chisel only method for stuff that needs to be seen as often.  I'm pretty happy with it. I was trying to make something that didn't look like complete poo poo and it sorta gets there. I could definitely do better on another one. Working with red oak vs all the pine stock I've had was interesting also and kinda neat to contrast between the two. Planing wasn't a ton harder, but sawing and drilling took a lot more effort. Gonna hang it up on some L brackets tomorrow and start tackling making the leg vise for this bench now I guess.
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Apr 14, 2018 13:33
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Well I got this home now, certainly not gonna blow as hard as the homemade version, but at least I will be able to lift this in place above my cyclone... I think. Smaller and lighter, but everything is made from some really heavy gage material, this is heavy duty if nothing else. Designed not to use a cyclone but take a beating from all kinds of debris. 
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Apr 14, 2018 19:15
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A series of compounding mistakes late in the game took me from this  To this  So there’s a load of wasted time
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Apr 14, 2018 20:58
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Is it possible to buy square edged, furniture quality 2x4s for a reasonable price or am I gonna have to find a joiner and slice some stud 2xs into what I want (or I guess I could glue two 1x4s or 2x2s together but that sounds like it could go bad quickly
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Apr 14, 2018 21:05
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Is there anything I can finish wenge with that won’t wreck the grain? I mostly just want to protect from splinters. It’s under minimal danger from the elements.
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Apr 14, 2018 21:14
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Moatman posted:Is it possible to buy square edged, furniture quality 2x4s for a reasonable price or am I gonna have to find a joiner and slice some stud 2xs into what I want (or I guess I could glue two 1x4s or 2x2s together but that sounds like it could go bad quickly Pick through what they have indoor. Framing material is not rated furniture quality, it's rated for framing, but you can get lucky.
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Apr 14, 2018 21:27
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Sockser posted:A series of compounding mistakes late in the game took me from this what happened D:
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Apr 14, 2018 22:09
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Phone posted:what happened D:
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Apr 14, 2018 22:35
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Mr. Mambold posted:Pick through what they have indoor. Framing material is not rated furniture quality, it's rated for framing, but you can get lucky. Hell yeah that's exactly what I was trying to find and didn't know the words to search for, thanks
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Apr 14, 2018 22:40
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If you want properly dimensioned lumber and you don't want to pay an arm and a leg for it, then you're definitely going to need some tools and/or some practice to develop skills. I maintain that the lowest cost, time, and space investment is a jointer plane and a lunch box planer. But that of course assumes you have a bench you can plane at.
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Apr 14, 2018 22:51
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Phone posted:what happened D: Nailed one of those front ledge pieces in crooked. No big deal, hammer it off, cool. Can’t get one of the brads out, try to hammer it down, it goes wonky instead of straight in. Cool whatever I can sand it flush later Nail it back on loving upside down. Repeat, now there’s three hosed up nails hanging out Nail it back on straight and in the correct orientation, cool Decide that rounding over the corners would be nice. Get out my router. Forget that those ledge pieces are only 1/4” thick. Drive a round over bit straight through that same ledge. Pound a beer in anger, knock the entire thing apart with a framing hammer, pack everything up and call it a day.
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Apr 14, 2018 23:40
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I once got mad enough at a project I chucked it end over end into the front yard. When it didn't break I reckoned it wasn't as hosed as I thought and went on and finished it.
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Apr 14, 2018 23:50
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A planer and being picky at the lumber yard can make framing lumber go a surprisingly long way if you really need to.
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Apr 15, 2018 00:10
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Framing vs dimensional? Might be worth it to go into splitting those hairs. (As someone who knew nothing forever all wood was 2x4s until I got bored on Wikipedia)
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Apr 15, 2018 00:20
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Huxley posted:I once got mad enough at a project I chucked it end over end into the front yard. Believe me, it happens to everyone, that was your initiation.
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Apr 15, 2018 02:08
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So you guys convinced me to set up a leg vise on the Nicholson bench and I had a couple questions before I start on it tomorrow. 1. Is there a compelling reason to put it on the left leg vs the right (facing towards the long face of the bench)? In most everyones photos etc its on the left. I saw right handed more than not and it seemed like if I was crosscutting something long I would be doing it off the right edge of the table not the left etc. Just wondering if there was something I am missing that dictates that position. 2. I was just going to use another 2x12" board leftover from the bench for the face of the leg vise. Some of the ones I have looked at have a thicker plate than others, should I be laminating up a face thicker than 2" ?
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Apr 15, 2018 02:24
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If you are right handed the vise goes on the left side. The vise isn't for holding boards to crosscut. Use a bench hook or sawbenches for that. A 2" thick board is good enough, but a 2x12 isn't 2" thick. My bench is SYP but my leg vise, crochet, and planning stop are all ash. I think it is definitely worth going and getting some 10/4 - 12/4 of a hardwood to make your vise from. Ymmv etc.
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Apr 15, 2018 03:16
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GEMorris posted:If you are right handed the vise goes on the left side. The vise isn't for holding boards to crosscut. Use a bench hook or sawbenches for that. Thanks. I'll go start shopping for some hardwood then instead. I get your point about not using the vise in that manner. That said why is it on the left for right handed people? I think part of the reason I have a hard time getting my head around it is I am in fact left handed when I write, but my right arm and right eye are dominant for most all else. Like I write left handed but throw with my right and shoot with my right etc. I'm also left footed. It's complicated. Sawing definitely feels more natural and appropriate with my right arm though, but I find I can saw with my left arm almost as easily which is nice. For chiseling I hold the chisel with left hand, hammer with the right.
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Apr 15, 2018 12:45
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You want the leg vise on the left if you plane with your right hand because it is easier to keep a board you are planning the edge of stable if it is captured towards the end of your planing stroke than at the beginning (supporting it at the beginning with pegs in your apron (Nicholson) or a sliding Deadman (roubo, holzapfhel) is nice, and sometimes necessary, but the strongest capture needs to be near the end as (for me at least) that's often the part of the stroke where you are exerting more downward force. The face vise exists to hold boards so their edges can be planed, and so that their ends can be worked (e.g. tennon rip cuts, dovetails) The top of the bench is for (amongst other things) planing faces of boards, and making crosscuts (using appliances to save your bench from damage on the crosscuts). You can also rip at the bench by hanging the board off the edge (or do this at sawbenches, or use power tools for rips). Schwarz's Workbenches book spells this all out in far greater detail than I can muster in a phone post. GEMorris fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Apr 15, 2018 |
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Apr 15, 2018 14:17
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GEMorris posted:You want the leg vise on the left if you plane with your right hand because it is easier to keep a board you are planning the edge of stable if it is captured towards the end of your planing stroke than at the beginning (supporting it at the beginning with pegs in your apron (Nicholson) or a sliding Deadman (roubo, holzapfhel) is nice, and sometimes necessary, but the strongest capture needs to be near the end as (for me at least) that's often the part of the stroke where you are exerting more downward force. Thanks! Having only had the bench assembled for less than a week am still learning my way around it all and was genuinely curious why the left hand bias was so prevalent. It capturing the end of the planing stroke and being able to support long boards on pegs further down the apron now totally makes sense to me. Being left / right cross dominant on stuff always makes me overthink or question side placement on just about everything and also because sometimes I end up using a left handed person setup and sometimes a right depending on the task. I like pushing the planer with my right as well so the left leg vise makes more sense again.
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Apr 15, 2018 14:33
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So I built a side table/stool for my 4 year old. He picked the stain color, but it's not the worst thing in the world. First completed woodworking project since about 3rd grade when I built a super poo poo birdhouse (so poo poo that birds couldn't actually live in it). I got to learn all about fixing things that aren't lined up right, so that was fun. Turned out not too poorly, and it's even level and has a flat top. 
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Apr 15, 2018 15:04
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I'm thinking of moving into my own place for the first time in the next 6 months or so and would like to start building my own furniture over the coming months. I feel like I'd like there to consistency between pieces. I've built a desk and a nightstand thus far... not sure if I like the style of either so I might be starting from scratch. Anyways, any recommendations for articles/videos for how I should prepare? I feel like I should at the very least do cad mockups of what I want and figure out the finish/materials ahead of time.
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Apr 16, 2018 18:39
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Moatman posted:Is it possible to buy square edged, furniture quality 2x4s for a reasonable price or am I gonna have to find a joiner and slice some stud 2xs into what I want (or I guess I could glue two 1x4s or 2x2s together but that sounds like it could go bad quickly I keep a pile of $2.00 2x4s in the garage. After a few months they pretty much do the twisting they are going to do, then I rip the sides off to get square edges and build things for the shop. No where near furniture quality, but I can try stuff for basically free.
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Apr 16, 2018 20:12
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bobua posted:I keep a pile of $2.00 2x4s in the garage. After a few months they pretty much do the twisting they are going to do, then I rip the sides off to get square edges and build things for the shop. I was gonna suggest just getting some kiln-dried 2x4s, assuming they're available, but they'd still end up moving some once relocated to your garage/workshop due to being dried to a different ambient humidity.
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Apr 16, 2018 20:38
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Big box stores will happily take delivery of a flatbed of kiln dried lumber that's been untarped in a rainstorm overnight and still sell it as dry lumber, priced accordingly. So that's fun.
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Apr 16, 2018 20:58
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Jhet posted:So I built a side table/stool for my 4 year old. He picked the stain color, but it's not the worst thing in the world. First completed woodworking project since about 3rd grade when I built a super poo poo birdhouse (so poo poo that birds couldn't actually live in it). This is cool. How's the kid digging it?
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Apr 16, 2018 21:01
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That Works posted:This is cool. How's the kid digging it? He's super excited to have a table for next to his bed now. The poly is just finished curing, so hopefully it was even enough where it doesn't end up with water marks from his water bottle. I started pricing the lumber for the benches my wife wants next. Her benches will be no where near the ~$25 it cost to build this one unfortunately.
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Apr 16, 2018 21:46
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