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For me the whole planking process is downright meditative. It's a bit like going into hack mode as a programmer or that weird state of mind you sometimes reach when running where suddenly all that exists are you, the wind and the ground.
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# ? Apr 16, 2018 08:22 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 19:46 |
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I ran into a little trouble planking my longboat. The instructions detailed the process of measuring out the available space left on the middle bulkhead and dividing that by 10 (the remaining number of planks needed for the hull) and indicated that this process needed to be done for each bulkhead to discover how much taper had to be given to each remaining plank. The instructions indicated that the taper would be quite gradual, but my math showed something very different-- I wound up with a very strong taper in each plank as they ran towards the bow. I was able to finish the planking and after another fairing pass, the hull is quite smooth and looks good. The other reference photos I have seen of this kit do not have the same extreme taper that mine does so I'd like to get a better handle on where I went wrong so as to avoid making the same mistake in the future. I still really enjoyed the process though and would like to do it again.
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# ? Apr 16, 2018 09:35 |
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Fearless posted:I ran into a little trouble planking my longboat. The instructions detailed the process of measuring out the available space left on the middle bulkhead and dividing that by 10 (the remaining number of planks needed for the hull) and indicated that this process needed to be done for each bulkhead to discover how much taper had to be given to each remaining plank. The instructions indicated that the taper would be quite gradual, but my math showed something very different-- I wound up with a very strong taper in each plank as they ran towards the bow. I was able to finish the planking and after another fairing pass, the hull is quite smooth and looks good. Close-up photo's might help so we can see what you mean and maybe be able to help you figure out what happened.
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# ? Apr 16, 2018 14:21 |
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The Locator posted:Close-up photo's might help so we can see what you mean and maybe be able to help you figure out what happened. Sure. Here are shots from multiple perspectives. I did manage to make things pretty symmetrical overall by planking two at a time, so I'm happy about that. This is my first serious attempt at planking and I feel like I learned a lot about it but I'm at a loss to explain how I wound up with results so divergent from what I've seen from other completed versions of the same kit. E: I think that part of the problem might be that my garboard planks may have introduced a curve that built progressively over the course of the next few planks... but that still doesn't quite explain why the formula in the instructions produced such a severe taper. And for a bonus, an old WIP of something I was more used to working on: Fearless fucked around with this message at 20:54 on Apr 16, 2018 |
# ? Apr 16, 2018 20:46 |
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I'll assume this is the 18th century longboat designed by Chuck Passaro? There's two things. If you compare your second picture to the one on top of page 4 of your practicum you will see that while Chucks planks slant downwards towards the keel yours slant upwards. Basically theres too much strip left going upwards gradually building up until you run out of room. You can see the difference most prevalent in the garboard plank and the two following. Chuck cut these rather radically with a sharp keelward taper giving him the room to put in the other strip without them slanting upwards. Also it's hard to say with the shadows but it looks like your garboard plank starts a little too far forward of the joint. If that is the case it would again contribute to the slanting issue above. That being said, I think the boat looks quite nice as it is. Of course there's always the option of adding a second planking on top
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# ? Apr 16, 2018 21:22 |
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Hard to be sure since I can't see it to well on my phone, but I think Greyhawk has it pretty close. It looks like the garboard extends too far forward. Then the two planks above the garboard don't appear to have much if any taper at all. This combines over the rest of the planks to not leave enough space for them. I'll take a look on a real monitor tonight and have a look at the plans to see if I can verify or come up with anything else that might help you out.
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# ? Apr 16, 2018 21:39 |
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Greyhawk posted:I'll assume this is the 18th century longboat designed by Chuck Passaro? It is indeed the longboat by Chuck Passaro. The garboard actually ends just ahead of the scarph joint in the keel (about 1/8" past it. It looks messy in there because I threw a patch in there to fill the gap, thinking that the garboard plank wasn't supposed to turn inwards to the keel like it did. This would explain why it looks that way (because functionally it does). I see what you mean now and it makes sense. Anyways, thank you for the guidance and kind words. I like the boat and intend to paint the hull white and black like one of Victory's longboats so the Many Sins of the Planking will be concealed from all but knowledgeable eyes.
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# ? Apr 16, 2018 22:38 |
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Miniscule AA! This is from the Revell 1/144 Fletcher platinum kit. This will be built as the USS Chevalier largely because her camouflage scheme is way easier. For my first foray into ship building, I chose a doozy as it's a massive undertaking. It's about 3' long overall and the platinum version of the kit came with 3 large sheets of brass. I've opted to work my way through most of the PE first before moving on to the rest of the build, though I'm slowly picking away at the hull and decking when I need a brake from brass. Generally speaking, I'm glad I shelled out for the platinum version of this. The molded-on detail is a little soft overall and I think I would've been disappointed with the end product if I'd only used the injection molded kit parts. My only gripe is that even with all that brass, it does not coming with a set of rails, so I had to spend another ~$50 for an Eduard kit. They expect you to build the railings out of thread wrapped around hair-thin plastic stanchions... half of which were broken in two when I opened the box. So, Eduard to the rescue. Otherwise, this is a very nice kit and a good entry into the world of ship building... though I'm pretty sure I'll move to 1/350 kits after this build. This is big to the point of being unwieldy.
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# ? Apr 16, 2018 23:52 |
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Fearless posted:It is indeed the longboat by Chuck Passaro. The garboard actually ends just ahead of the scarph joint in the keel (about 1/8" past it. It looks messy in there because I threw a patch in there to fill the gap, thinking that the garboard plank wasn't supposed to turn inwards to the keel like it did. This would explain why it looks that way (because functionally it does). Being able to see it on my monitor at home, and reading about your patch, I can now see clearly the problem. I am terrible at paint, but I'll try to illustrate as best I can the flow that you should have used. The green squiggle is your patch, and the orange lines are where the planks should have been placed to properly flow without hooking upwards at the bow. Very little tapering should have been needed I think. I have this kit and really should build it someday! As you said though, some light sanding to smooth it out, and painting, and it will be fine when you are done. The thing about wooden boat building is to always learn from your mistakes, and if you are like me, you will do lots of learning! Looking forward to seeing you finish this.
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# ? Apr 17, 2018 04:29 |
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The Locator posted:Being able to see it on my monitor at home, and reading about your patch, I can now see clearly the problem. I am terrible at paint, but I'll try to illustrate as best I can the flow that you should have used. The green squiggle is your patch, and the orange lines are where the planks should have been placed to properly flow without hooking upwards at the bow. Very little tapering should have been needed I think. I have this kit and really should build it someday! Yes, I see what you mean. I like this kit a lot. It's been a great way to ease into wooden model building without committing to a much larger vessel. It's also kind of a labor of love; the longboat is very similar in form and function to the whalers and cutters I trained in as a Sea Cadet a very long time ago. I've gotten into the habit of keeping log books of my hobbies to track progress and record lessons learned. I've already got several entries on this project and don't mind learning more as I go. Based on your work that I have seen, I'd say you've learned your lessons well.
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# ? Apr 17, 2018 05:30 |
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This SU-76 has been on my bench for months, and I just got around to putting the running gear together. This time I'm trying a new approach: first paint and weather the sides of the hull, then seal, then attach the separately painted wheels and tracks, then weather them separately. I think I overdid it a tad. Also I can't seem to get the pigment off the parts that are above the fender line.
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# ? Apr 17, 2018 23:50 |
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The thing is - nature sometimes overdoes it
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# ? Apr 17, 2018 23:58 |
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Attach the fenders, mask everything under them, respray the top?
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# ? Apr 18, 2018 00:19 |
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Arquinsiel posted:Attach the fenders, mask everything under them, respray the top? Yeah, that's the plan. That's everything "above the belt" is just primed and has a little bit of modulation practice in places, it's all going to go once I'm done with the tracks.
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# ? Apr 18, 2018 00:21 |
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Does anyone have any good US based sources for assorted styrene sheets? I’ve been working on my technical drawing skills by analyzing stills from old sci-fi films and figuring out how all the parts fit together, and I got it into my head that building a Landmaster from 1977’s greatest sci-fi film, Damnation Alley, could be a bit of an interesting project. My biggest issue is getting a good assortment of sheet styrene that doesn’t cost way more than it needs to.
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# ? Apr 18, 2018 02:33 |
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Hedningen posted:Does anyone have any good US based sources for assorted styrene sheets? I’ve been working on my technical drawing skills by analyzing stills from old sci-fi films and figuring out how all the parts fit together, and I got it into my head that building a Landmaster from 1977’s greatest sci-fi film, Damnation Alley, could be a bit of an interesting project. My biggest issue is getting a good assortment of sheet styrene that doesn’t cost way more than it needs to. http://www.hobbylinc.com/model-scratch-building-plastic-supplies I've not gotten plastic from them, but their 'plastic' section under supplies has 700+ listings. I have purchased other items from them and had no issues at all.
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# ? Apr 18, 2018 03:16 |
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Scharnhorst issue 40 As announced we're taking a short break from planking. Instead the port side of the forward deck structure is kitted out with brass. As you can see fit is not perfect, but with a bit of filler this should close up nicely.
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# ? Apr 18, 2018 08:58 |
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Hedningen posted:Does anyone have any good US based sources for assorted styrene sheets? I’ve been working on my technical drawing skills by analyzing stills from old sci-fi films and figuring out how all the parts fit together, and I got it into my head that building a Landmaster from 1977’s greatest sci-fi film, Damnation Alley, could be a bit of an interesting project. My biggest issue is getting a good assortment of sheet styrene that doesn’t cost way more than it needs to. Most of the common online hobby shops stock bare styrene. http://scalehobbyist.com has quite a few items in stock
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# ? Apr 18, 2018 12:44 |
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Hedningen posted:a Landmaster from 1977’s greatest sci-fi film, Damnation Alley, hell yeah
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# ? Apr 18, 2018 18:26 |
I'm looking for a good gloss, satin, and matte. I can get vallejo regular, vallejo polyurethane, or AK. The AK is almost triple the price. Anyone have a good recommendation?
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# ? Apr 18, 2018 18:29 |
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Vallejo regular is fine. I used the poly/rc colors one for a while but its sensitive to humidity a lot more.
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# ? Apr 18, 2018 18:33 |
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Hedningen posted:Does anyone have any good US based sources for assorted styrene sheets? I’ve been working on my technical drawing skills by analyzing stills from old sci-fi films and figuring out how all the parts fit together, and I got it into my head that building a Landmaster from 1977’s greatest sci-fi film, Damnation Alley, could be a bit of an interesting project. My biggest issue is getting a good assortment of sheet styrene that doesn’t cost way more than it needs to. I found avoiding the hobby shops and go to sign/plastics shops and you'll pay like 10x less. There's a local plastics and paint store in my town where I can get huge 3x6' sheets of styrene in a huge variety of thicknesses for like $5-10 a sheet. Contrast that with buying sheets at a hobby shop for something like Evergreen sheets and it's $10 for a few little 8x10" sheets. I only get the evergreen stuff if I need a certain texture, but for just flat plastic sheets, go find a commercial/consumer plastics and paints place.
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# ? Apr 18, 2018 18:38 |
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Yooper posted:I'm looking for a good gloss, satin, and matte. I can get vallejo regular, vallejo polyurethane, or AK. The AK is almost triple the price. Anyone have a good recommendation? I use Vallejo Mecha varnish, and it's very good.
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# ? Apr 18, 2018 19:15 |
Ensign Expendable posted:I use Vallejo Mecha varnish, and it's very good. What makes the mecha varnish special?
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# ? Apr 18, 2018 19:41 |
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Yooper posted:What makes the mecha varnish special? IIRC its meant for gunpla stuff, which is typically handled more than a typical model. Because of that, its supposed to be more durable. If you're ok with spraying lacquer, and already have some Mr Leveling Thinner, I'd really recommend tracking down some Mr Color GX-100 for gloss.
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# ? Apr 18, 2018 21:05 |
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I've done a bunch of work on the longboat. The interior is almost done and I am heading onto the rudder and tiller, then onto the rigging, mast and spars. I am seriously considering a vise of some sort to hold the boat as I install the rigging. I opted for a colour scheme reminiscent of that worn by HMS Victory's longboat. I like the simple contrast between white and black (and it spares me from having to do all kinds of loopy freehand).
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# ? Apr 20, 2018 01:45 |
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Looks like you are doing really well!
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# ? Apr 20, 2018 05:09 |
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The Locator posted:Looks like you are doing really well! Many thanks. I've gotten the hull basically complete and the rudder fitted. My task this weekend is to start the rigging, spars and mast.
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# ? Apr 20, 2018 17:26 |
So this has been a technically 1.5 year long project. I first did the hull/wheels in July 2016, then moved which made me pack away the model and then work kept me so busy I never had time to pull out the model and set up a workstation. I finally moved into a nice place in November which gave me enough room to set up a mostly permanent workstation instead of having to clear off my work desk every time I wanted to do something. Especially painting. Finally at the end after trying to personalize the tank with its markings I just gave up, hopefully you goons can give me some tips/tricks on the last portion. Now without any further ado the model! Brush painted with mostly Tamiya but used my last bits of Testor enamel paint. 1/48 Tamiya IS-2 Tank Complete album with manual. Things I know I did wrong,
Things I need to really buy/do next time
Next project is going to be a ship or a plane, anyone want to suggest something?
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# ? Apr 21, 2018 00:56 |
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Acrylic all the way, enamel is a huge pain in the rear end and toxic at that. Also don't worry about the lines being perfectly straight, they weren't like that in real life.
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# ? Apr 21, 2018 18:32 |
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Two WIP cockpits. 1/72 Eduard SPAD XIII The grid squares are 1/2". The decals and photoetch for the flight instruments were a huge hassle. Added a few extra details that were missing in the kit. Actual SPAD XIII for comparison Tamiya 1/72 P-47D Razorback I tried to make my own harness out of some foil and tape, didn't quite turn out how I wanted. Although its arguably better than the weird Tamiya waterslide harness.
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# ? Apr 22, 2018 02:02 |
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Put in some more work on the SU-76. The colours really popped out more when I sprayed it with gloss. Good thing I didn't go overboard on the modulation. The crew is coming along nicely too. I think I'm enjoying painting figures more than tanks these days.
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# ? Apr 22, 2018 20:09 |
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Ensign Expendable posted:Put in some more work on the SU-76. Looks like the SU-76 caught themselves a RONA Tanker and strung him up, lol.
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# ? Apr 22, 2018 21:43 |
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The crew look fantastic
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# ? Apr 22, 2018 22:58 |
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Ensign Expendable posted:Put in some more work on the SU-76. Nice work on the faces. What brand are those figures?
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# ? Apr 23, 2018 00:15 |
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Also Tamiya, they came with the SU-76 set.
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# ? Apr 23, 2018 00:40 |
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Ensign Expendable posted:The crew is coming along nicely too. I think I'm enjoying painting figures more than tanks these days. Just chiming in to say hot drat, that's some fine work.
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# ? Apr 23, 2018 05:12 |
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Thanks! I got quite a bit of painting done today, and these guys are just popping to life.
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# ? Apr 23, 2018 05:29 |
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You've made some great strides in your figure painting. Looking good!
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# ? Apr 23, 2018 05:41 |
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# ? May 29, 2024 19:46 |
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I've made more progress on my longboat. I have discovered that I do not enjoy rigging nearly as much as I do planking, but if I pace myself and set small, realistic goals it isn't so bad.
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# ? Apr 23, 2018 06:53 |