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MetaJew posted:There are several trusses on either side of the wall that run the same span, unsupported which was how he described it to me. I also have a letter from him with his PE stamp so I think I can trust his assessment. Ok then, if they're on either side you don't have to worry about the column suddenly becoming load-bearing then? Just scab it to the truss joists.
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May 17, 2018 02:58
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That Works posted:If there isn't a more practical decorative option (in my earlier reply) , would dowel joints be no good here? Just kinda got nice long clean lines down the sides and having a buncha nails being quite visible in two horizontal lines would look kinda gross vs the rest of the piece. Not really sure what I can do to make that either invisible or do to make it look better. Are you aware of cut nails from Tremont (repacked by bt&c as well) or the French forged nails carried by Lee valley and lie Nielsen? If you are aware and just don't like the aesthetic that's fine, I just want to check. If you don't want to use nails, maybe use a different design than a 6-board chest, as it is a design that takes advantage of and relies on the flexible properties of nails. If you want smooth and nothing visible maybe you could use pocket screws from the inside? If you want smooth but visible joinery then redesign the project so you can have a dovetailed carcass.
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May 17, 2018 03:58
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GEMorris posted:Are you aware of cut nails from Tremont (repacked by bt&c as well) or the French forged nails carried by Lee valley and lie Nielsen? If you are aware and just don't like the aesthetic that's fine, I just want to check. Yeah am aware of those, its more or less the color and texture, big dark protruding spots on a very lightly colored piece, just seems it would stick out like a sore thumb. You're right about the joinery though, maybe if I can find some brass headed nails or just go with an overall darker staining scheme on it then the cut nails would look good with that I bet.
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May 17, 2018 04:08
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Or do decorations around the heads to draw attention instead of trying to hide them.
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May 17, 2018 04:12
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Personally I think the French forged nails look amazing but that's my a e s t h e t i c
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May 17, 2018 04:27
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GEMorris posted:Personally I think the French forged nails look amazing but that's my Oh yeah they definitely look neat, but was kinda envisioning this as a just a linseed oil coat on the light pine color and having 2 rows of black big headed nails would stand out as kind of odd in relation to the rest of the cabinet. If I go with a darker stain though.... I will probably play around with some finishes on some scrap and see if one stands out, in that case I'd have no reservation using those nails.
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May 17, 2018 04:34
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Neighbors house got torn down. Backyard is full of debris wood  What do y’all make of that? Worth carting six feet into my house and removing all the nails from? There’s like uhhhh an entire rowhome worth of whatever this wood is, in various sizes, some 2x4, some 1x12, some absolute massive loving like 6x10x12’ers But they’ve been sitting out in the rain for a while and they’re all full of nails and I’m not even sure what kind of wood they are Edit: 
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May 17, 2018 05:03
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Mr. Mambold posted:Ok then, if they're on either side you don't have to worry about the column suddenly becoming load-bearing then? Just scab it to the truss joists. Like I said, the structural engineer warned me that if I left the column such that the truss was loading it, there was risk that it would seesaw and lead to cracks in the ceiling down the line, along the length of the truss.. Now, if I were to I guess entirely remove the framing that goes to the ceiling, and frame a new column that's scabbed to the truss, maybe that would work and not have any problems?
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May 17, 2018 06:54
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Never not scavenge some wood.
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May 17, 2018 11:13
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Sockser posted:Neighbors house got torn down. Where's the house, and roughly how old is it? Near me old joists like that are often heart pine.
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May 17, 2018 12:59
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armorer posted:Where's the house, and roughly how old is it? Near me old joists like that are often heart pine. Philly, and since it’s a rowhome, probably shares age with my house which is from the 20s I think?
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May 17, 2018 13:06
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6"x10"x12' would make one hell of a roman style low bench, or cut in half and then glued side to side, a great top for a Roubo.
GEMorris fucked around with this message at 13:47 on May 17, 2018 |
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May 17, 2018 13:18
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Sockser posted:Philly, and since it’s a rowhome, probably shares age with my house which is from the 20s I think? Take all of it if you can get it free. It's probably heart pine and worst case you can sell it for more than you'd think. If it were me, I'd take all the large pieces for sure.
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May 17, 2018 13:21
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OK so, I've spoken with the carpenter dude that works for the cladding company I'm buying from, asked a bunch of questions. He's recommended using scarf joints between boards placed end to end, how hard is that going to be for me to do? Is it pretty much just two 45º mitres? I also asked about predrilling. The spax screws I was looking at are *probably* fine for fixing without predrilling, but he's recommended predrilling a slightly larger hole than the fixing to account for movement. What would be the best fixing approach if I did that? Predrill plus nails? Not worth using screws if I'm predrilling. (I asked something similar in the tools thread but with this new info it feels more like a woodworking question.
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May 17, 2018 13:41
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armorer posted:Take all of it if you can get it free. It's probably heart pine and worst case you can sell it for more than you'd think. If it were me, I'd take all the large pieces for sure. That’s a uhhhh lot of wood 
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May 17, 2018 13:54
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Yeah not the 2x4s or anything, forget those, just take the big 6x10x12 ones.
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May 17, 2018 13:56
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MetaJew posted:Like I said, the structural engineer warned me that if I left the column such that the truss was loading it, there was risk that it would seesaw and lead to cracks in the ceiling down the line, along the length of the truss.. Now, if I were to I guess entirely remove the framing that goes to the ceiling, and frame a new column that's scabbed to the truss, maybe that would work and not have any problems? And like I said if it's not load bearing now, it's not going to magically become load bearing.
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May 17, 2018 14:13
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Does balsa wood hold up well for something like utensils? Or is it too soft/light to be useful? While cleaning out my grandfathers house we found a large thick piece of what appears to be balsa. It's something like 12x12x4 and super light weight. I'm not super into carving so I don't have much use for it, but making some spoons and spatulas might be in my wheel house. I figure I could sell them at my next craft show as a cheap draw people in item.
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May 17, 2018 16:25
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Sockser posted:That’s a uhhhh lot of wood This is what it might look like unfinished, after just a quick pass through a jointer and planer. 
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May 17, 2018 16:33
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MetaJew posted:Now, if I were to I guess entirely remove the framing that goes to the ceiling, and frame a new column that's scabbed to the truss, maybe that would work and not have any problems? This is how you should do it. The wall position may change and you'd have to adjust your flooring.
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May 17, 2018 16:57
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bred posted:This is how you should do it. The wall position may change and you'd have to adjust your flooring. that isn't finished and you won't find this out until you rip out the wall 
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May 17, 2018 17:20
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Jokes on you. I redid the flooring when I bought the house and it's a slab foundation so the flooring definitely isn't finished... :/
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May 17, 2018 18:47
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keep it down up there! posted:Does balsa wood hold up well for something like utensils? Or is it too soft/light to be useful? Balsa is way too soft to hold up as a utensil. Would undoubtedly break almost immediately when any resistance at all was encountered. On the plus side you could bite down on the spoon really hard and the spoon wouldn't damage your teeth, since you would just bite through it!
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May 17, 2018 21:15
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Hey Woodworking Megathread! Long time, no talk! You see, I live in Northern Seattle and have an unfinished garage, so when it gets cold outside, I stop my woodworking projects. Anyhoo, I just wanted to give props to a local business and recommend them if anyone is in Northern Seattle. Rockler (on Northgate) is awesome. Everyone there is really nice, but I found out a couple days ago when buying some Black Limba and some Purple heart for a charcuterie board, that you can rent time in the back (complete with an employee giving advice/teaching/assisting/shooting the poo poo with you for a reasonable price. I cut, glued-up, clamped, planed, routered, hand-routered, and forstner-bitted(?) my charcuterie board in 2 sessions (because of the glue up needing time to dry) and I had the best time ever. Pics when finished... but man, I highly recommend that store. If you're nearby, you can do just about ANYTHING wood related in their workshop.
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May 18, 2018 02:25
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What's the rate that they charge?
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May 18, 2018 02:46
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MetaJew posted:What's the rate that they charge? 40. But as long as you don’t come in and waste their efforts and time with a 5 minute job they will charge only for partial.
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May 18, 2018 03:30
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Feenix posted:Hey Woodworking Megathread! Long time, no talk! You see, I live in Northern Seattle and have an unfinished garage, so when it gets cold outside, I stop my woodworking projects. Where in North Seattle are you? I'm in the U District, and will have a shop at the end of summer. 
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May 18, 2018 17:18
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I'm in North (of) Seattle too, up in the Bothell area. Had stopped into that Rockler once a long time ago but haven't been doing too much stuff yet. Nice to hear they rent shop time.
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May 18, 2018 17:50
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I'm near the Northgate mall in Victory Heights. I'm about 1/2 mile, maybe, from the shop. So this is gonna get good, I think. Costly, but good! DevNull posted:Where in North Seattle are you? I'm in the U District, and will have a shop at the end of summer. Nice! Looking good!
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May 18, 2018 19:46
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DevNull posted:Where in North Seattle are you? I'm in the U District, and will have a shop at the end of summer. Was it hard to get a permit for that? Looks like a good size to work in
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May 18, 2018 20:02
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Was it hard to get a permit for that? Looks like a good size to work in Well, it is complicated. The construction was started by the last owner. They started without a permit. The old neighbor filed a complaint, so they had to get a permit. Now I have to keep bugging the city to prove to them I am finishing it, or they will start fining me. We just got the house at the start of the year. I just had to renew the permit because it expired after 2 years. I don't have to submit plans and such, because it won't be a dwelling unit. I just had to pay $800 or whatever and have them come look at it to make sure it is built to basic code. Which means anchored to the foundation and simple stuff like that. The shop is 18' x 20' so it should be plenty big for anything I need.
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May 18, 2018 20:30
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DevNull posted:The shop is 18' x 20' so it should be plenty big for anything I need. You fool.
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May 18, 2018 20:42
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Tres Burritos posted:You fool. I am taking into account that I live in Seattle. We were pretty picky on finding a house within a few neighborhoods for easy public transit. We almost bought the place next door, and it had an 8'x8' basement workspace with about 6 inches of slope in the floor. So I am not going to complain about the size of a dedicated shop.
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May 18, 2018 20:51
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DevNull posted:I am taking into account that I live in Seattle. We were pretty picky on finding a house within a few neighborhoods for easy public transit. We almost bought the place next door, and it had an 8'x8' basement workspace with about 6 inches of slope in the floor. So I am not going to complain about the size of a dedicated shop. Yea that must have been $$$$$
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May 18, 2018 20:54
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I am very excited about woodworking because the new place I bought has a nice existing shop. Heated/cooled 24'x24' detached garage, with a roll up door and a normal door, dedicated 100 amp service, grounded plugs every 6 feet. Now I can finally build the cool things in my head or at least die trying.
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May 18, 2018 22:48
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Falcon2001 posted:I'm in North (of) Seattle too, up in the Bothell area. Had stopped into that Rockler once a long time ago but haven't been doing too much stuff yet. Nice to hear they rent shop time. Dang there’s a handful of folks in the area. I’m up in Mountlake Terrace using my garage as a shop, but share it with the family car. Now that I’m finally done restoring an old bandsaw, I will hopefully start working on projects again.
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May 19, 2018 05:27
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North Seattle Wood crew, represent! This is what I’m working on... nothing major but I am supremely impressed with how it turned out. Black Limba edged with PurpleHeart. The glue-up is so tight! It excites me! This is just before and after a first penetrating coat of mineral oil. Ultimately gonna finish it with mineral oil and beeswax blend.  
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May 19, 2018 05:40
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Looking for recommendations on hinge types / setup. I made good progress on my litterbox concealing furniture. I went with 8d finishing nails as I remembered that A: pine is soft and B: I can fill in the holes with putty and sand then finish, so my earlier worries about nails on the side panels wasn't a big deal. The only thing left is to put moulding around the entry hole (lower left) and a lip of moulding around the top shelf. Also, I need to install the front plate with hinges. I want it to open vertically, so gravity keeps the front door shut and I can pull the door upwards to change the litter tray. Happily the entire thing seems square and very sturdy! Right now I intend for the front door to fully overlay the bottom and middle shelves and be flush with the outer sides of each vertical wall. I imagine having 2 hinges mounted on the middle shelf somehow that connect to the front door. Since I am new to all of this stuff I don't really know what would the best choice be for hinges. My preference is that they are more or less hidden, but I'm not super locked in on that idea. My worry is that the soft pine will basically always be supporting the weight of the front door through the mounting screws and I imagine over time that might get to be a problem? Any tips or recommendations here on hinge types / mounting location? 
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May 19, 2018 21:42
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Why are all of my projects so big? I had a productive day today on the for the arts & crafts-ish TV center. Finished final dimensioning all of the panels and did two practice through-tenons. I'm happy, but not thrilled, with how the second one turned out. I wish the mortise had crisper edges, I think I'm levering the chisel accidentally. There are eight of these on the project, half of which will end up against the wall, so I'm hopeful the visible four will be quite good. 
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May 20, 2018 23:00
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The slow march of progress  In the middle of making some saw benches with GEMorris. I've been real bad about actually taking initiative and working on developing my skills, and I feel like I've been on the cusp for a while; however, there's no better time than the present, eh?
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May 21, 2018 01:19
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