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Phone posted:In the middle of making some saw benches with GEMorris. I've been real bad about actually taking initiative and working on developing my skills, and I feel like I've been on the cusp for a while; however, there's no better time than the present, eh? 
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May 21, 2018 05:57
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Anyone have plans for a MAME cabinet they can speak to personally? Seems like there are a ton of variations out there, some of which look very janky with weird edges and modular components. Looking to just make a classic clean cabinet to put Asteroids and/or Pacman on.
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May 21, 2018 15:15
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For a first just-playing effort on a lathe I don't feel terrible about this. And it's just so FUN.
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May 21, 2018 16:41
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jackpot posted:For a first just-playing effort on a lathe I don't feel terrible about this. And it's just so FUN. I almost pulled the trigger on a used jet lathe because it seemed like a ton of fun, nice work!
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May 21, 2018 16:59
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Nephzinho posted:Anyone have plans for a MAME cabinet they can speak to personally? Seems like there are a ton of variations out there, some of which look very janky with weird edges and modular components. Looking to just make a classic clean cabinet to put Asteroids and/or Pacman on. Hey there. I’m like, practically a professional cabinet builder at this point, making weird bespoke cabinets for indie games, so I’ve probably got your back here (and we can take it to PMs if you’d rather not clutter the thread) What are you looking for in a mame cab? 1p/2p/4p? Trackballs? Lighting? Do you want a full size cab or a bartop or a cabaret? In all honesty, cabinets are kind of stupid easy to build. Cut the side profiles out of a sheet of plywood, nail some braces in from the edges offset by plywood thickness and a little bit more for flair, and then just attach the two sides with a shitload of rectangles forever and ever. Best place to start is to figure out how many players you want and what size screen you’re going to use, and then kinda sketch things out from there. gently caress plans, design your own weird fuckin thing, put a kegerator in it or something Since we’re talking about it, here’s some weird cabinets I’ve built  this one is still not quite done, and I totally hosed up the pocketholes by not paying attention, but we’re hosting a game jam for it and it’s going into a weird arts space in Brooklyn and it’s gonna be all lit up and fancy and gay as all hell  This is my baby and how I learned how to make wood into boxes and how to manage electronics and stuff and I designed it too big to enter and exit my house without being completely disassembled so now it lives in my storage unit 99% of the time
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May 21, 2018 17:23
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Really I just want to make a classic looking machine, potentially with a working coin slot, with a relatively small screen (20" CRT probably), just to play Asteroids/Pacman. So many designs I see have such fancy open layouts that make it more comfortable to play multiplayer... but they don't feel like arcade cabinets. Super simple and there are tons of designs out there, just looking to see if anyone has a template they would recommend. I'd be making two as gifts for family member's game rooms, with their respective favorite games on it -- anything crazy like a four player widescreen Turtles in Time booth would be for me and I live in an apartment that wouldn't get such a work of art through the door.
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May 21, 2018 17:49
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I almost pulled the trigger on a used jet lathe because it seemed like a ton of fun, nice work!
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May 21, 2018 17:52
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Question about a hardwood charcuterie board I am doing. I have let Mineral Oil soak through overnight, and wiped excess. Post-oiling, I noticed one of the pieces of wood may have "Swelled" a little with the oil and my glue-up edge is a little uneven. (one side sticks up EVER so slightly. Can I random orbital sand my mineral oil-soaked wood to buff everything out? Maybe apply a bit more oil afterwards? I'm not gonna ugly it up too much am I? (lastly, gonna finish it with beeswax and mineral oil seal.)
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May 21, 2018 17:54
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Nephzinho posted:Really I just want to make a classic looking machine, potentially with a working coin slot, with a relatively small screen (20" CRT probably), just to play Asteroids/Pacman. So many designs I see have such fancy open layouts that make it more comfortable to play multiplayer... but they don't feel like arcade cabinets. I understand the appeal of the CRT but like It’s ~90% not worth the headache. You’ll be able to make the whole thing a lot smaller and a lot lighter and a lot less top heavy if you just grab some 21” lcd. The only thing you really need plans for is the side profile pieces, like I said earlier, everything else is just screwed onto the sides either via pocketholes or brace pieces, like this:  In any case, this would probably be a decent setup, though I don’t think it’ll have enough room to support a CRT 
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May 21, 2018 18:14
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I have a woodworking-adjacent question. Setting up a couple display shelves - 4ft long, 14ish deep (doesn't have to be too precise on that) with three simple shelf brackets. Trying to decide whether to laminate some red oak 1x4s together into the shelf or just use an MDF shelf. The biggest reason I am looking at doing the relatively more complicated wood option is that I don't have a tablesaw (or even a circular saw and guide, although I do have a miter saw) to break down MDF sheets, but I had a thought that I could probably just get two 8" wide MDF trim boards and glue them together along the long side and paint over the glue line. The plan is to paint them so I'll have to prime the 'backside' before painting but that didn't look too terribly difficult as long as I got the right primer/sealer. Am I approaching this entirely wrong or does this all seem reasonable? If so, any tips for sealing/painting MDF?
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May 21, 2018 21:24
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Whats a reasonable price to pay for an older model Delta Unisaw? Hes asking $400 img]  It looks like it was made in 87 http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=33970 The Spookmaster fucked around with this message at 02:13 on May 22, 2018 |
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May 22, 2018 01:42
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Pretty good price. If you are comfortable with the risks that come along with being a hobbyist and owning/using a table saw, I'd jump on it.
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May 22, 2018 03:12
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The Spookmaster posted:Whats a reasonable price to pay for an older model Delta Unisaw? That's a very good price for a saw that will outlive us all.
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May 22, 2018 03:34
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Good saw and probably a good price depending where you are and how common unisaws are near you. I have a somewhat older Rockwell of the same design and I must say the fence is not very good. I don't think those fences that rely on round rails are very highly regarded. Maybe the Delta ones are better though? The one on my rockwell gets way out of alignment very easily. To the point you have to basically square it up after moving it every time.
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May 22, 2018 03:41
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Anyone got a favorite stain / wiping varnish combo for pine? I just finished assembly of the catbox cabinet and gave it all a heavy coat of BLO. I wanted to get a bunch on the inside especially before I put the partition inside and hang the front plate on hinges so it would be easier to flip around while applying finish. My initial plans were to give it ~3 coats of BLO then 2 coats of a wiping varnish I saw from one of the finishing books recommended previously. That varnish would be 1 part BLO, 1 part paint thinner, 1 part satin finish polyurethane.  But, now that I put down the BLO I think it tinted it a bit more yellow than I might like. Wondering if anyone has a stain / tint recommendation that they like on pine that could potentially get mixed into this wiping varnish perhaps? I don't want it to be tons darker, just a bit browner actually, kinda somewhere between maple and white oak or so if possible. Just not really sure what options I have now that I put down a coat of BLO on it. Edit: on further reading looks like Tung oil would have been a better choice. Is there any issue with using tung oil here on out over a single coat of BLO? I don't reckon there is but not sure if I am setting myself up for disaster somehow. Still wondering about best options for hinges for the front lid as well. I grabbed some that by specs should work, but I have no idea what I'm doing in that regard yet. Project has been a lot of fun though, cut my 1st miters and used a spokeshave, rasp and files to round the edges of the cabinet front door and that part came out way better than I was expecting and didn't take that long at all. That Works fucked around with this message at 19:39 on May 22, 2018 |
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May 22, 2018 19:21
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I'm an inexperienced woodworker who wants to fix the floor in the cabinet under my kitchen sink. When we bought our house the floor of the cabinet under the sink was already taken out, presumably due to water damage. The actual floor is fine, but I'd like to rebuild the inside of the cabinet. Due to the divider between the cabinet doors though I'll likely have to assemble the frame inside the cabinet. I don't have a pocket drill jig and if possible would like to not have to buy one for this task. Any tips on how to drill the fame together inside the cabinet? I can't just drill it to the perimeter of the cabinet base because that's in poor shape. We'll likely redo our entire kitchen in a few years so this just needs to be something to get us through until then. I've attached a rudimentary diagram of what I'm trying to describe. Any tips or alternative suggestions are appreciated.
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May 24, 2018 17:28
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A picture would help, but you need to install a cabinet base in a cabinet that's already in place yes? Glue/screw bits of wood to the insides/front/back for your new base to rest on?
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May 24, 2018 18:27
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I'm having a hard time visualizing what your issue is beyond the divider which will be a problem when you try and put your new full sized base in. You said the base of the old cabinet is in bad shape, what is stopping you from drilling through the new frame into the floor? If its always going to be covered there is no reason to worry about damage to it. Be aware of water or electrical below where you are drilling. If this whole setup is temporary you definitely don't need a pocket jig, who cares if you have screw heads showing? If your question is just about the framing of the new base that looks fine
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May 24, 2018 18:55
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I did something similar last summer. I made two half size boxes and then covered it with one piece of 1/4 plywood so there were no seams. I didn't have the room to build it as one piece and drop it in but I was able to bend the plywood skin to fit in place.
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May 24, 2018 19:13
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Yea I did as well and I was able to get mine in the same way by taking out the plumbing and fussing with it.
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May 24, 2018 19:30
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I'll take some pictures tonight to try to explain it better. Basically I'm looking for ways to make a rectangular frame but I need to drill/attach from the inside of the rectangle. Pictures should help later.
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May 24, 2018 19:42
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Ah yea now the pocket jig makes sense. What about toenailing the screws in? You really don't need much strength, you can even pre drill if you're having issues getting them where you want
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May 24, 2018 19:44
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cakesmith handyman posted:Glue/screw bits of wood to the insides/front/back for your new base to rest on? This is what I'd do. Figure out how thick you want the bottom of the cabinet to be (1/2" plywood should work fine). Cut a bunch of 3/4"x3/4" sticks from whatever wood (not plywood or MDF) you have handy. Screw them to the interior of the cabinet such that the bottom will be at the right altitude, then just glue the bottom down to the sticks, or screw it if you want to be able to remove the thing later and don't mind the exposed screw heads. No need for pocket holes or anything fancy, just straight-up 90-degree joins.
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May 24, 2018 20:15
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:This is what I'd do. Figure out how thick you want the bottom of the cabinet to be (1/2" plywood should work fine). Cut a bunch of 3/4"x3/4" sticks from whatever wood (not plywood or MDF) you have handy. Screw them to the interior of the cabinet such that the bottom will be at the right altitude, then just glue the bottom down to the sticks, or screw it if you want to be able to remove the thing later and don't mind the exposed screw heads. No need for pocket holes or anything fancy, just straight-up 90-degree joins. yes but he said he can't do that already because the bottom of the old cabinet is in poor shape
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May 24, 2018 20:34
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put four bricks on the floor inside the cabinet and then put a piece of plywood on the bricks. no need to attach anything, and will work for a few years until you rip it all out as planned.
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May 24, 2018 21:55
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Here's the situation, the front of the cabinet (what's left) can't be drilled into without crumbling. Toenailing the boards as previously suggested will likely work.  
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May 24, 2018 23:20
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So I’ve given a couple of passes of jetting mineral oil soak into my black limba & purpleheart charcuterie board. It’s got a nice depth and detail. I splurged at Rockler on some Odie’s Wax. It’s apparently the good poo poo. I’m supposed to spread it on and buff it off 90 min later. Here’s my issue: the wax is hard as poo poo. It’s not dry or old or hosed. It’s just hard as poo poo. I left it in a sunny spot on my window sill, it helped a little... I put it in the oven a few min after my wife had turned it off. It helped... a little. How “soft” do I need this stuff? And how ‘thick’ a coating do I need? And I guess, is it a bad idea to forcibly warm it up more?
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May 25, 2018 04:27
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Can you not rub it hard with a rag and then apply it?
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May 25, 2018 06:08
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Can you not rub it hard with a rag and then apply it? Yes with undesirable results, quantity-wise vs how much pressing and effort I have to exert. And even then it kind of comes out a little crumbly. (Not dry, just kinda balls up.) I can eventually work it in, it’s just really not seeming to be easy it satisfying an experience. Rubbing in wax should be zen.
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May 25, 2018 06:13
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I'd suggest you write the manufacturer and ask about it, https://www.odiesoil.com/contact-us/
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May 25, 2018 08:08
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Totes. I can do that. Was just looking to see if general practices had folks warming their waxes to make them more workable. 
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May 25, 2018 15:10
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Anyone have a ridgid ts3650? Found one for $250 but i don't know about the build quality of older ridgid stuff?
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May 25, 2018 20:50
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From Tuesday:  Another 3 short weeks and I'll finally be done!!!! (it comes off as really sad when it took roughly 2 hours to do half of the marking, 16 shoulder cuts, and 8 choppings; but real talk, it'll be finshed sometime next week with only 3-4 hours left)
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May 26, 2018 05:22
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The Spookmaster posted:Anyone have a ridgid ts3650? Found one for $250 but i don't know about the build quality of older ridgid stuff? I have one that I got cheap as it's missing the wings and the mobile base. I'm overall happy with it, the only real thing is that dust can gum up the screw that tilts the blade and if you try turning it to hard it'll bow out the right side of the saw. That happened to me but it hasn't affected the usability of the saw. Dust collection is merely okay stock, just using a shop vac. I cant imagine it's any worse than any other contractor type saw.
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May 26, 2018 16:08
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Popular Woodworking has some great sales this weekend: free shipping on all items, up to 75% off DVDs and 50% off video downloads, and most interesting to me, a free 7-day subscription to their streaming video service (with a paid subscription that you can cancel before it starts). A lot of the video downloads are also included in the free subscription, so you can use the free subscription as a sample, and then purchase the videos at 50% off to keep. Watching other people working has been one of the best ways for me to learn. Just seeing how others work and mimicking their techniques in my shop is how I learn most these days, so I'm going to be taking advantage of this sale.
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May 26, 2018 20:11
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dyne posted:I have one that I got cheap as it's missing the wings and the mobile base. I'm overall happy with it, the only real thing is that dust can gum up the screw that tilts the blade and if you try turning it to hard it'll bow out the right side of the saw. That happened to me but it hasn't affected the usability of the saw. Picked it up today and somehow got the whole thing into my Honda fit hatchback. My god was it heavy.. thanks for the input
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May 27, 2018 18:57
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Started this shop built slot mortiser like 5 months ago, been working on it on and off. Still not even remotely close to done, but it's to the point where I could actually make some cuts. It's technically functional, just missing a lot of features.   
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May 28, 2018 03:35
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Why didn’t you just go all out and make a pantorouter
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May 28, 2018 04:04
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The pantorouter is cool, but they're somewhat cumbersome to set up (they're getting better all the time though) and don't have a ton of range/stiffness. I'm probably in for about the cost of the base hybrid pantorouter, but I'd prefer to have this machine. I've got a 10" vertical range and 8" in XY, and will do everything the pantorouter does except dovetails and rounded tenons (it'll do square tenons!). Still needs a DRO on the vertical and horizontal axis and some improved stops/limiters for keeping multiple setups dialed in at the same time. Eventually it'll get rebuilt again and I'll add a template system like the JDS Multirouter for cutting rounded tenons and boxjoints horizontally.
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May 28, 2018 04:59
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| # ? May 30, 2024 07:09 |
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Hypnolobster posted:The pantorouter is cool, but they're somewhat cumbersome to set up (they're getting better all the time though) and don't have a ton of range/stiffness. I'm probably in for about the cost of the base hybrid pantorouter, but I'd prefer to have this machine. I've got a 10" vertical range and 8" in XY, and will do everything the pantorouter does except dovetails and rounded tenons (it'll do square tenons!). Why not just save up for a handheld CNC router and make a table to accommodate doing work like this in that (i.e. fixtures and clamping slots) Itd be able to do this and a million more things.
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May 28, 2018 12:53
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