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Hypnolobster posted:I'd say so. If you don't have some kind of stationary sander already, it's very easy to make a little stand that holds it upside down or on it's edge. Very handy for squaring up small pieces/rounding corners/etc. I think the Ryobi 3x18 is only like $50ish. Got a link to that one? I see a few when I google.
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Jul 24, 2018 22:41
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I've had very good results *smoothing* an end grain board with a sharp hand plane, even though it's no good for flattening.
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Jul 24, 2018 22:42
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Feenix posted:Got a link to that one? I see a few when I google. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-3-in-x-18-in-Portable-Belt-Sander-BE319/205216313 This is one of the various belt sander tables, probably one of the cooler ones. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DlElAkH6XGA And another one (and he mentions another good one in this video) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BHumZmQACMU
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Jul 24, 2018 22:47
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Hypnolobster posted:https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ryobi-3-in-x-18-in-Portable-Belt-Sander-BE319/205216313 Thanks! It's unlikely I am going to get around to building a table for all this, but I will keep it in mind. Let me ask you all this. If a Drum Sander burnt the poo poo out of my purple heart... I mean, is a belt sander going to just do the same? No? Why not?
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Jul 24, 2018 22:52
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Drum sanders are notorious for burning the hell out of things (especially above 80 grit or so) because it's a comparatively small circumference and everything is moving in a straight line at rather high RPM. The paper gets hot and can't cool down. Even with ultra light passes they can burn if everything isn't just right. Pitchy/oily wood or not-fresh abrasive just makes it worse. Even a little 18" belt sander has tons of time for the belt to cool down (and they spin slow), you're actively controlling the pressure by hand and constantly moving around. You could definitely cause burning with a belt sander if you tried, but it's not going to happen otherwise.
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Jul 24, 2018 23:05
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Alright. Sold I think. I will get that Ryobi tomorrow and give it a crack.  Thank you.Anything I need to know about very general operation of a belt sander?
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Jul 24, 2018 23:10
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Try and always start/stop with it sitting on the work, and be pretty active on the switch. The weight of the tool is plenty to get it to sand, so the only real job is to keep it flat, keep it moving and keep it from driving off into the distance. If you start turning it on and then setting it down on the work/pushing down like crazy, you'll gouge the crap out of things. e: it's endgrain, so you can just go wild. I usually sort of sweep left and right. Turning the board regularly will probably help with not over-sanding a certain part. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 00:25 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 24, 2018 23:15
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Hypnolobster posted:Try and always start/stop with it sitting on the work, and be pretty active on the switch. The weight of the tool is plenty to get it to sand, so the only real job is to keep it flat, keep it moving and keep it from driving off into the distance. If you start turning it on and then setting it down on the work/pushing down like crazy, you'll gouge the crap out of things. Roger that. What about my motions? Varied? Up and down? Then rotate the piece 90 degrees and more up and down? (front and back, I guess.)
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Jul 24, 2018 23:21
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Always sand with the grain (doesn't matter for end grain, obviously). Crossgrain belt sander marks are hard as hell to get out with an orbital sander. Always keep the sander moving, be careful not to tip it over at all or rock it sideways or you will gouge the work. As Hypnolobster said, the weight of the machine should be plenty-I do lots of one handed belt sanding. Be especially careful around edges not to let it fall off the edge slightly. I tend to go in long strokes the length of the work, overlapping each one by about half. There is a graphite coated fabric that you can put in the platten of the sander that helps prevent gouging and keeps the belts much cooler and just generally helps enormously. Belt sanders are sanders and are best used as the first step of the finishing process, not as a shaping/machining process. They're very good at removing milling marks/tearout and quickly making a surface smooth, but they are very bad at getting a surface flat or true, and especially in softer woods can very quickly make a flat, square surface into a giant mess. Edit: Oh and make sure you have a solid backstop behind the work or it will go flying across the room
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Jul 25, 2018 00:35
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So it’s been drum-sanded to good flatness and even-ness. I’m just going to use the belt sander for cosmetic removal of burns and grooving from the drum. I hear you on letting the machine’s weight do the work. What’s that cooling graphite thing? Does Home Depot have it?
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Jul 25, 2018 00:41
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Feenix posted:So it’s been drum-sanded to good flatness and even-ness. I’m just going to use the belt sander for cosmetic removal of burns and grooving from the drum. I hear you on letting the machine’s weight do the work. What’s that cooling graphite thing? Does Home Depot have it? This stuff https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-3601010509-Graphite-24-Inch-Sanders/dp/B000A8ST64 Woodworker's Supply also sells it by the yard if you want to make a dress with it or something. I doubt you'd find it locally. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:46 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 25, 2018 01:43
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Thanks everybody!!
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Jul 25, 2018 02:04
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Belt sanders are really good at removing a lot of material very fast and trying to get it completely flat is going to be real hard. Use higher grits and light passes, and check frequently which part of the board is high. Getting out the sanding marks is also going to be a bit of a challenge, too. I would say that it's something that only you'd notice in the end and to not worry about it, but considering your last food related wood project... 
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Jul 25, 2018 02:09
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I mean it’s ok as is, it’s just that the Purpleheart squares are fairly black in many of the squares, so, kind of a shame.. [Ed] should I be concerned about throwing it really uneven /out of wack with a belt sander? Feenix fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 25, 2018 02:57
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It'll remove more material than you'd think it could. Since it's flat, you might have to look around or order online since big box home centers only have 40, 60, 80, 120 grit belts, but I'd try to find a 200+ grit and start there and maybe go down to 180 if you're still having trouble. Just keep it moving and don't makes "lanes" (for the lack of a better term) like you would if you were vacuuming a room with carpet; e.g. - 2 or 3 up/down passes before going one width left/right. It's not that bad. Phone fucked around with this message at 03:08 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 25, 2018 03:05
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There's technique to using a belt sander, since it's got a lot of power and can gouge if you don't pay attention. Maybe start at a low RPM with a higher grit belt for practice until you get more used to its ways.Phone posted:It'll remove more material than you'd think it could. Since it's flat, you might have to look around or order online since big box home centers only have 40, 60, 80, 120 grit belts, but I'd try to find a 200+ grit and start there and maybe go down to 180 if you're still having trouble. I've never seen or heard of belt sander belts above, say 150, but 
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Jul 25, 2018 03:14
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Don't know the quality of the media but https://www.amazon.com/POWERTEC-110950-21-Inch-Aluminum-Sanding/dp/B002DSC95Q vOv
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Jul 25, 2018 03:23
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Feenix posted:I mean it’s ok as is, it’s just that the Purpleheart squares are fairly black in many of the squares, so, kind of a shame..
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Jul 25, 2018 04:09
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KingColliwog posted:I want to make my own version of this : Well, when a man and a woman love each other very much…
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Jul 25, 2018 05:46
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Platystemon posted:Well, when a man and a woman love each other very much… ...they decided a track saw and router are wise investments?
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Jul 25, 2018 06:01
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I decided to get into woodworking a little while back, but have hesitated as everything I want to do would be easier with a table saw, but the table saw we have is not in usable condition. It's an old craftsman 8" direct drive, this bad boy right here: https://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/user-manuals/113221611-craftsman-parts-manual The last time I used it was a decade ago, and it was loud as gently caress, but cut surprisingly well once you got it trimmed up. Well, well for an inexpensive table top saw from the 80s, I really wasn't expecting much. My dad still uses it occasionally for plywood, but hasn't in at least the last year. Ideally I want to replace it, but the problem is my project money just went into something else and it'll be a while before I have table saw money. My plan right now is to refurbish that old saw, which should be pretty simple. I think the only thing actually broken is the elevation handle, which I can just reattach with a set screw, or go super janky and just glue it on. Of course I'm going to go through the whole saw and make sure it is worth working on before I put any effort into it. I think the only thing I'll need to spend money on is a new blade, and it's probably not worth spending any more than that. Also looking to get a budget worked out for a new saw, and I've got a few options that I'm between. Space is at a premium, so a hybrid/contractor saw is as big as I can go. My family does this weird thing where we park cars in our garage, so it needs a mobile base. I'd prefer something new, but a good oldie with a mobile base and available parts would work too. Anyone have experience with these, or anything similar? Delta 36-725 $600 Good Fence, seems well reviewed except for some horror shows. My Realistic budget best pick Rigid R4512 $600 Better reviews, but the fence isn't as good. Still has horror show reviews, and it seems they don't do repairs you have to return the entire saw? Sawstop Contractor Saw $2000 with the base? Seem like the best of the contractor saws with a mobile base. Also out of my price range, but I like my fingers so I haven't ruled it out. Dewalt DW745S $300 well reviewed Jobsite Saw Nowhere near as capable as the other saws, but packs way smaller and I can chuck is in a closet. I think I would regret this as it would hold me back as much as my current saw would. Comedy Option Skil 3410-02 $200 Basically what the craftsman would be if I bought it today. Edit: Good idea, bad idea? Old Craftsman with what looks like all the parts. Asking $100 https://sandiego.craigslist.org/nsd/tls/d/sears-craftsman-10-table-saw/6632125279.html Bondematt fucked around with this message at 08:04 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 25, 2018 07:14
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I have a Delta 36-725 and I'm very happy with it. In my area they would pop up used every once and a while. So I waited and got one for $200 without a fence, miter gauge or throat plate (obviously based on what they had they had purchased a Lowes return lot or displays). The Unisaw fences work on them so that was about $175, but an upgrade. Made a throat plate out of phenolic. Lastly, I was going to get a better miter gauge anyway. I find it a great saw for me. The base allows it to be mobile enough to store it against a wall and then put it in the middle of my shop for working. It only bogs down on really thick hardwoods and usually then I consider using my bandsaw if appropriate. Add this for consideration? https://www.sears.com/craftsman-10inch-table-saw-with-laser-trac-reg-21807/p-00921807000P?plpSellerId=Sears&prdNo=1&blockNo=1&blockType=G1
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Jul 25, 2018 13:27
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Bondematt posted:Table saw stuff My dad runs a craftsman from the 80s, maybe late 70s, and it’s a colossal piece of poo poo and everything is rickety and the fence doesn’t hold and I’m straight up loving terrified of using it but the man knows all the quirks to it and can get every cut to come out perfectly every single time and it’s absolutely amazing I went through the table saw shopping process recently, and I ended up with the Dewalt 7491 link I was committed to having a rolling stand because I kinda store it in my back sunroom and exclusively use it outside, so your usecase might be a bit different; it does store pretty conveniently. The rack and pinion fence is basically the best goddamn thing and is what sold me on it over the comparable Rigid or the Bosch offerings
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Jul 25, 2018 15:26
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I also gave the dewalt 7491 and I really like it. Especially good if you can’t leave it “out” 24/7
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Jul 25, 2018 15:57
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Bondematt posted:Good idea, bad idea? Hey, I recognize that big ugly beast!  If it's exactly the same, mine is the 1954 model. I love restoring old tools and actually using them but that saw is the one purchase I regret. It was a fun restoration project as it's indestructible and massively over-engineered, but it's essentially furniture now. There's the guard but no riving knife, which kind of freaks me out. Not that it's not included-- there's literally no option to have a riving knife without machining the underside of the table and fabricating your own. It's also fantastically heavy and the size with the motor/belt assembly hanging out in the back is a little unwieldy if shop space is tight. Mine now just sits in the corner as a glue-up table. If you have ample space, ample time for a restoration, a truck and two friends every time you need to move it five feet, a high tolerance for a bit of slop in your fence measurements, and an extra finger for while you get the feel for it, it's a good purchase. Otherwise, I personally wish I would have spent a bit more and gotten a basic modern table saw with safety features.
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Jul 25, 2018 18:37
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Anyone know where to buy breakaway nails? They are small pin nails about 3/4" long made of hardened steel that you hammer in, then hit sideways and they snap below the surface and just leave a tiny hole. Very useful for repairs. My old boss used to have some but I can't seem to find anywhere that sells them.
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Jul 25, 2018 19:13
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Anyone know where to buy breakaway nails? They are small pin nails about 3/4" long made of hardened steel that you hammer in, then hit sideways and they snap below the surface and just leave a tiny hole. Very useful for repairs. My old boss used to have some but I can't seem to find anywhere that sells them. Are these different than brad nails or finish nails like you would use for trim?
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Jul 25, 2018 19:22
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They are about the same diameter but instead of being wire and flexible, they are very hard and snap when you hit them sideways. The broken off bit goes flying off and invariably hits you in the eye, so I'm sure OSHA has banned them. They are for moulding etc. Googling just gets me a million results about fingernails.
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Jul 25, 2018 19:38
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Your google-fu is weak! Woodhaven wonder brads, e.g. http://aa1964bw1958der1844.blogspot.com/2012/01/woodhaven-5495-wonder-brads.html. But I can't find them still being sold anywhere with a quick search. Ah here we go, from another manufacturer: https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/wonder-brads-headless-wonder-brads-length-7-8.html https://www.amazon.com/handyct-Headless-Wonder-Brads/dp/B073RQCDYQ http://www.usknobs.com/Wonder-Brads-Headless-Wonder-Brads-Length-7-8.html Available in various finishes: http://www.whbagshaw.com/brads/ Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 19:45 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 25, 2018 19:42
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Thanks! That's exactly what I needed.
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Jul 25, 2018 20:01
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Anyone know where to buy breakaway nails? They are small pin nails about 3/4" long made of hardened steel that you hammer in, then hit sideways and they snap below the surface and just leave a tiny hole. Very useful for repairs. My old boss used to have some but I can't seem to find anywhere that sells them. I've got a box of them. Case hardened for laminated flooring, yes? edit, nvmnd. Leperflesh posted:Your google-fu is weak!
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Jul 25, 2018 20:07
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Hypnolobster posted:If you do end up wanting to flatten it with power tools, a router is $70 at home depot, and a short 3/4" straight bit and sled will make flattening very easy and safe, and can actually remove any twist/warp. Thanks for this idea. I spent a little more on the router and used a loving $33 bit, but it worked really well!   I wish there were more contrast between the maple and cherry, or the maple were more consistent, since the pattern in the middle is hard to make out. But otherwise I'm happy with how it turned out. e: Now to get a shop vac. go for a stroll fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Jul 26, 2018 |
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Jul 26, 2018 02:43
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xwing posted:I have a Delta 36-725 and I'm very happy with it. In my area they would pop up used every once and a while. Thanks, that Delta is still the winner so far. The craftsman seems decent, but at that price I would probably just opt for the $300 Dewalt. Sockser posted:Dewalt 7491 That 7491 was actually the first one I was really thinking about, that fence and rip size is insane on a jobsite saw. If I had even slighlty less space that would have been the no-brainer choice. How stable do you feel it is, and does the smaller table size ever get in the way? Pissed Ape Sexist posted:Hey, I recognize that big ugly beast! This is all really good, I didn't realize how much that thing weighs, but according to google the saw itself weighs about 250lbs, I couldn't find if that was with or without the motor. The base it probably another 100 lbs. Trying to imagine solo moving that into the corner after using it all day. Also I feel like I would spend more time making it work than actually using it. Kinda funny how much denser a full cast iron saw is. The hybrids I'm looking at top out at 250lbs for the whole thing.
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Jul 26, 2018 02:51
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go for a stroll posted:Thanks for this idea. I spent a little more on the router and used a loving $33 bit, but it worked really well!
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Jul 26, 2018 02:58
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I don't know if you've oiled it yet or not, but that will definitely give more contrast between the cherry and maple, and age definitely will darken the cherry. A few hours in the sun will darken cherry a bit-it changes color very very quickly compared to most woods. I've found this to be a problem with my cherry, in fact -- I'll leave some boards stacked up somewhere, and the parts that are in the sun will change noticeably compared to the ones in the shade. Sort of like a sunburn.
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Jul 26, 2018 03:29
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Got a belt sander today... probably gonna get my first router tomorrow. Just seems to make more sense than paying for shop time at Rockler. (Still need them for drum sanding and planing and whatnot, though.)
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Jul 26, 2018 04:22
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Bondematt posted:That 7491 was actually the first one I was really thinking about, that fence and rip size is insane on a jobsite saw. If I had even slighlty less space that would have been the no-brainer choice. How stable do you feel it is, and does the smaller table size ever get in the way? It's not really that bad, other than the distance from the front of the table to the edge of the blade. There's lots of cuts that I feel fine doing on the fullsize Sawstop they have at my hackerspace that just feel weird when I've only got half a foot of lead space, like ripping really long pieces etc I still need to build sleds and stuff, though, so there's probably some stuff I could do to fix it I also have a neat little outfeed that just hooks onto the frame
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Jul 26, 2018 04:52
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looking to start up a baton fighting study group with some martial arts friends. We typically use 55" x 3/4" rattan but I was wondering how I could get my hands on a hardwood baton. I'm interested in ironwoods and hickory, but would love suggestions and recommendations for other types of wood, as well as recommendations for suppliers/woodworkers who could make it for me since I don't have access to tools.
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Jul 26, 2018 14:42
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I'm dumb and just bought a 25 gallon compressor off Craigslist for 50 bucks and got home and realized it's rated for 240 volts. Any way I can run it off of 120 I'm only planning to use it for brad/pin nailing and finishing every once in awhile?
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Jul 27, 2018 00:13
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The Spookmaster posted:I'm dumb and just bought a 25 gallon compressor off Craigslist for 50 bucks and got home and realized it's rated for 240 volts. Any way I can run it off of 120 I'm only planning to use it for brad/pin nailing and finishing every once in awhile? Transformers exist but a suitable one will cost more than $50 and given that the compressor was designed for 240 V, there is a strong possibility it will pull more current that your 120 V circuit allows.
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Jul 27, 2018 00:27
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