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Granite Octopus posted:
This is fantastic! I need a lathe!
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Aug 26, 2018 22:31
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Any advice on gluing this up? That's 40 4"-long triangular sticks. The plan is to glue them together and then cut slices off of the resulting "log" to use as an inlay. However, since they're triangular, and the overall shape is wider than it is tall, I'm not really sure what the best way to clamp them is. Right now I'm thinking I could do the central hexagonal portion with my strap clamp and/or some string, then once that's solid, clamp other bits to it. Any better ideas?
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Aug 27, 2018 01:39
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Any advice on gluing this up? You might rig up some cauls to offer more balanced pressure, and then be able to use regular clamps. I don't know if a single strap clamp will be enough.
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Aug 27, 2018 01:56
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A single strap clamp certainly won't be enough; if I were going to go the strap clamp route then I'd also use string/rope tightened down as tight as I can manage (e.g. tie a stick through the rope then twist it to tighten). Cauls would work if I just did the central hexagon and then added the rest on later. I don't see how it could work if I tried to do everything in a single glue-up. Put some catches on the long-edge cauls that the short-edge cauls can clamp to?  Central hexagon or no, I guess cauls are a lot more likely to give me flat faces to work with. Maybe use the strap clamp to hold things together while I get the cauls set up, though, because keeping clamping pressure balanced so the thing doesn't fall apart sounds like a nightmare otherwise.
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Aug 27, 2018 02:15
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Could you make a jig that circularizes or rectangularizes it so straps or clamps can grip? Or add a cap to make a full hexagon?
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Aug 27, 2018 02:32
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Maybe a flat layer at a time, and combine those afterwards. Strap clamps around the sticks, and something heavy on top to get it to stay flat.
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Aug 27, 2018 02:33
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Any advice on gluing this up? 3 or 4 6" F clamps with cauls will work. Make sure that you're not cranking really hard in any one axis.
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Aug 27, 2018 02:34
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I think I’d glue up each row across individually with cauls clamped to the top and bottom to keep them from sliding out of line. Once the rows are glued up, glue them all together in a stack, though keeping everything lined up will be tricky. If you’ve got a little extra meat on it, run them all through the planer to get the panels really flat before you glue them in a stack. Then you can use plain bar clamps for all of it and you’re dealing with mostly flat surfaces and working with a few small glue ups instead of a monster glue up. It would help to make a an extra half triangle caul for each side end of the rows so you have two parallel faces to clamp to. Edit: Once you had the rows glue up, a strap clamp would definitely help keep things lined up and give you some clamping force as well. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Aug 27, 2018 |
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Aug 27, 2018 02:36
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dupersaurus posted:Could you make a jig that circularizes or rectangularizes it so straps or clamps can grip? Or add a cap to make a full hexagon? Ah, if the caul for the long edges had angled sides and was the right length, it'd make the entire thing a hexagon. Then the shorter cauls would have slightly better angles to work with. That definitely sounds promising. Thank you! nielsm posted:Maybe a flat layer at a time, and combine those afterwards. Strap clamps around the sticks, and something heavy on top to get it to stay flat. I've thought about this approach, and my concern basically boils down to needing to balance the force provided by the "something heavy" against the force pressing the sticks to each other. If they're a bit out of balance, then I have a feeling the joints will slip or be loose. I think that doing it in layers like this would be more likely to result in imbalanced clamping forces and irregular pieces than doing it all at once would be.
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Aug 27, 2018 02:39
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I would make sides out of 1/8 ply for the 6 sides and use ratchet straps down the length of the "tube". Start with tape* so you know it has the shape you need then add the straps and ratchet it down nice and tight. *lay the six sides on the length of tape with enough room to fold them up, rough fit the shell first then start the layers folding the sides up as you go with the top being the final fold over and make it tight. As you ratchet the straps check the sides with calipers to make sure they are of equal distance down the length and tighten/adjust as needed.
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Aug 27, 2018 03:01
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What about a few big hose clamps?
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Aug 27, 2018 07:34
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think I’d glue up each row across individually with cauls clamped to the top and bottom to keep them from sliding out of line. Once the rows are glued up, glue them all together in a stack, though keeping everything lined up will be tricky. If you’ve got a little extra meat on it, run them all through the planer to get the panels really flat before you glue them in a stack. Then you can use plain bar clamps for all of it and you’re dealing with mostly flat surfaces and working with a few small glue ups instead of a monster glue up. It would help to make a an extra half triangle caul for each side end of the rows so you have two parallel faces to clamp to. Yeah, this.
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Aug 27, 2018 16:13
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Are the blue/grey pieces dyed? I haven’t glued up much stuff that was already dyed, but you might want to make sure your glue doesn’t make the dye bleed. Water based yellow glue and water based dye might?
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Aug 28, 2018 14:53
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They're all solid wood; the gray is purpleheart, it just looks gray because it's rough. I decided to do things one row at a time. The glue-ups are still a pain to set up, but hopefully the result will be higher quality.
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Aug 28, 2018 16:04
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I'm looking into starting buying some basic hand tools (saws/planers/chisels). I remember seeing some beginner recommendations that didn't break the bank but cannot find them now. I remebr something about USA Irwin chisels Halp
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Aug 28, 2018 21:17
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I'm workshopping an idea for a headboard. I have sketched it out a bit on my blackboard, but wanted to kind of see it 3d. Is there an easy-to-use program for ipad or Mac that would allow me to sort of gin up a 3d Rendition?
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Aug 28, 2018 21:42
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I'm here with probably the worst advice, but for chisels I started with a set from Harbor Freight for $10. I've since replaced them, and my chisels now are much better, but I got a lot of use out of my first ones. I could get them nice and sharp, and I got a lot of practice with sharpening because they didn't hold a sharp edge nearly as long. I've also heard things about the chisel set at Aldi's being surprisingly good quality for the money, but I've never seen chisels there.
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Aug 28, 2018 21:46
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Feenix posted:I'm workshopping an idea for a headboard. I have sketched it out a bit on my blackboard, but wanted to kind of see it 3d. Is there an easy-to-use program for ipad or Mac that would allow me to sort of gin up a 3d Rendition? SketchUp will probably work for your needs.
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Aug 28, 2018 21:50
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Feenix posted:I'm workshopping an idea for a headboard. I have sketched it out a bit on my blackboard, but wanted to kind of see it 3d. Is there an easy-to-use program for ipad or Mac that would allow me to sort of gin up a 3d Rendition? "Easy to use" is subjective. Personally I hate sketchup and love Fusion360. Do you have any experience with 2D/3D CAD software at all? Had someone ask for a bookcase and when I asked for a reference picture for style they said "Standard wood bookcase" So I started on paper like you and then mocked it up in Fusion360 with all the joints, angles, lengths, etc. Granted in the render you don't see most of that, just what the finished product would look like.  To : 
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Aug 28, 2018 22:19
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JEEVES420 posted:"Easy to use" is subjective. Personally I hate sketchup and love Fusion360. +1 I hated sketchup, my native is SolidWorks. I wanted something for home, tried F360 and think it is great.
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Aug 28, 2018 22:26
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If you don’t have any preconceptions about how a 3D program should work then sketch up is fine. I am annoyed that it’s web based now but it works ok for doing basic stuff. Fusion360 is ok but I couldn’t get over how bad a Mac citizen it was. A lovely installer, it also put it in my dock, and the ui made no effort to be Mac-like.
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Aug 28, 2018 22:51
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I use SketchUp, but I don't have any particular love for it. Whatever tool you use, remember that it is a tool you will need to learn. If you just try to dive in, you'll waste your time. I found this great resource for SketchUp, you'll be up and running in an hour or two: http://sketchupforwoodworkers.com/djfooboo posted:I'm looking into starting buying some basic hand tools (saws/planers/chisels). I remember seeing some beginner recommendations that didn't break the bank but cannot find them now. I remebr something about USA Irwin chisels Stanley makes a good chisel set for about $70. It's nice because it comes with a leather case you can use until you build a place to hang them. As for other stuff, you'll mostly want to buy vintage. There are good modern tools (Lie Nielsen, Lee Valley), but they're expensive. The exception is Wood River, who makes good, modern tools for relatively affordable prices. That aside, buy vintage. I wrote about the tools I started with on my blog: https://www.smokingonabike.com/2017/01/01/hand-tools-for-a-newbie-woodworker/. It also has links to further reading. If you're in an area where they hold meets, MWTCA meets are fantastic places to get a good starter set for just a few hundred bucks.
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Aug 28, 2018 22:51
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djfooboo posted:I'm looking into starting buying some basic hand tools (saws/planers/chisels). I remember seeing some beginner recommendations that didn't break the bank but cannot find them now. I remebr something about USA Irwin chisels https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GPC74ZQ/ref=psdc_553148_t4_B0000224EV This is the most saw per dollar that money can buy. I've got some fancy saws that are absolutely wonderful, but this is the saw I reach for 75% of the time. I mostly just use the fine teeth because the bigger teeth kind of suck and it's harder to keep straight than a backsaw, but for $20 it's amazing and cuts wood very fast and its not going to ruin your day if you accidentally hit a nail. https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Marples-Double-Edge-Pull-Saw/1000236029 I would look for an old Sargent or Stanley in good condition on ebay or somewhere for just a plain bench plane. Whatever plane or chisels you get you are going to need some way to sharpen them sooner or later. This thing is a great value too with a leather strop or a black arkansas stone or buffing wheel for a final polish. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Smith-s-6-in-Tri-Hone-Knife-and-Tool-Sharpening-System/1266429 I absolutely love old tools and use a bunch of them daily and they can be an incredible bargain, but in my opinion they're not the best place for a beginner to start until you have some idea what you're doing. Without knowing how a tool is supposed to work and feel, its pretty hard to do the set up/sharpening that old tools usually require. Most new stuff is going to require a little tuning and honing to do it's best, but I think that's more easily handled than trying to sharpen an old saw or figure out why a plane does nothing but chatter. Start cutting some wood and you'll figure out pretty quickly what you need. Edit: Do definitely read Coldpie's blog post because it is great and you're going to need to know that stuff sooner or later. Roy Underhill's book "The Woodwright's Guide" is very old fashioned and pretends it is still 1830 but covers an awful lot of stuff in a very practical way. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 01:28 on Aug 29, 2018 |
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Aug 29, 2018 01:21
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ColdPie posted:I use SketchUp, but I don't have any particular love for it. Whatever tool you use, remember that it is a tool you will need to learn. If you just try to dive in, you'll waste your time. I found this great resource for SketchUp, you'll be up and running in an hour or two: http://sketchupforwoodworkers.com/ Seconding all of this. I have that chisel set and its great. Used the blog above as well as some of the other buying guides it (cribbed from / referred to?). Thanks again Coldpie. Just finally finished up my 1st frame and panel build. This took forever because halfway through I knew it was not going to work like I wanted and I started hating it and wanted to just burn it all and start over. That said, I'm glad I saw it through. Only power tool I used was a cordless drill to use a forstner bit to hang the hinges and used it to drill a few of the countersunk screw holes. These were the 1st miter cuts I ever made, the 1st time using a router plane and the 1st time cutting plywood with a dozuki. I made the plans on my own based on the dimensions of a previous lovely chipboard piece of furniture that fit the same space. There's a ton of mistakes and I learned some limitations for the tools I have and some things I can avoid for next time. Its functional, not totally ugly and fills a need for this rental place for now. Likely unless theres a similar spot for it later I'll just leave it here for the next tenants. Anyway, I'm fairly happy with it, but I think if I made it again it would be a shitload better.   
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Aug 29, 2018 01:22
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Looks great, man. Just curious, what'd you use to cut the grooves in the frames for the panels?
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Aug 29, 2018 02:11
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ColdPie posted:Looks great, man. Just curious, what'd you use to cut the grooves in the frames for the panels? Lee Valley Router plane with a 1/4" bit. It was very satisfying to do by hand.
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Aug 29, 2018 02:17
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That Works posted:Lee Valley Router plane with a 1/4" bit. It was very satisfying to do by hand. I like it a lot, tell me more about doing the miters by hand
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Aug 29, 2018 02:34
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Yeah did you mortise and tenon the miter’s or what? That’s a real bitch to do well-whatever you did looks good and tight.
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Aug 29, 2018 04:07
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That Works posted:Lee Valley Router plane with a 1/4" bit. It was very satisfying to do by hand. Wait, you cut the panel grooves with a router plane? I tried that with 1 project before stalking eBay for a Stanley 45, and the doors I made on that one project sucked. Do you have some sort of technique? Constantly adjusting the depth got old really fast.
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Aug 29, 2018 04:13
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Leperflesh posted:Potentially you could accumulate a small collection of hand tools for woodworking, that would pack OK and be shippable for not an outrageous amount? Japan is renowned for its hand-tool woodworking traditions, so there's bound to be places you can get e.g. small pull saws, planes, chisels, and the like. Yeh I'll have to have a look around for some hand tools. The woodwork here is crazy good, there's actually a village near me that displays their woodwork and is proud of how the houses are built with no nails and just the wood joints, they fit seamlessly, it was really cool to look at. There are craft villages all across Japan, if you're ever here I'd recommend visiting one because the stuff they make is awesome.
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Aug 29, 2018 06:06
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Been working on the axe shaft now and it's almost done, some material near the bottom that needs to be removed yet, and perhaps the sides should be slimmed further. I used another small axe that I usually keep next to the stove to make kindling to roughly shape it, it's a good tool for this kind of work and it's what this axe will be used for later.
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Aug 29, 2018 06:14
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I’m going to be making a headboard. We’ve wanted one for a long time. I’m trying to do a variation of a very simple design. Imagine 2 “legs” (The posts) and 3 or 4 slats across the front. And a mantel-like top. Ok? Got that image in your head? It’s pretty basic. Now imagine that top slat is mounted on the back of the legs while the rest are in the front. And between the front and the back is a horizontal board, making an inlaid “shelf.” Does this sound viable? Any issues with the design that anyone can think of? 
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Aug 29, 2018 06:18
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Were it me, I’d totally turn over in the middle of the night or struggle to turn off my alarm in the morning and bust that top piece right off
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Aug 29, 2018 06:52
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It might look a little wierd above the front boards where the legs become visible because of the depth of the front boards, other than that it looks fine.
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Aug 29, 2018 07:34
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Spring Heeled Jack posted:Wait, you cut the panel grooves with a router plane? I tried that with 1 project before stalking eBay for a Stanley 45, and the doors I made on that one project sucked. Just set the fence up where it would middle out for 3/4" stock and then did super thin shavings for 3-4 passes then opened it up a full turn on the depth gauge each time after that. It was a lot more 'zen' than tedious once things got into a groove (pun maliciously intended). Basically just do a long pass, unlock the blade, turn the depth gauge about a full turn, relock, repeat another pass. I'd say the long boards took about 5 mins each, so all of the planing took just a little more than an hour or so of actual work. I broke it up into 2 days just doing a little after dinner. Harry Potter on Ice posted:I like it a lot, tell me more about doing the miters by hand I got an old Stanley 358A miter saw / box on ebay for super cheap and set it up there. It was just the 1st time I had ever cut miters or anything to speak of other than some practice moulding before. "by hand" just meant 'without power tools', sorry. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Yeah did you mortise and tenon the miter’s or what? That’s a real bitch to do well-whatever you did looks good and tight. I just kinda framed it around the plywood. I routered in my 1/4" grooves in the mitered door panels then cut the plywood as close to full size as possible (length of each interior side + 1", each groove was 1/2" deep). From there I glued the plywood into the groove on one long face and let that set up. Then I added in the short top face, glued it up to the plywood and each miter face to each other and set it with a corner clamp. After those were set I just repeated for the other short opposite face then had to do just a tiny bit of sanding to get the last long vertical stringer into place. The hardest part was clamping it up without encouraging the whole door to twist. That's partly why I did one corner at a time, each time I would flip it opposite any direction a twist started to form and put a weight on it when re-gluing and applying a clamp. It seems pretty solid. There's a shitload of surface area of glue between the plywood inside each groove. Like I said originally, up close it's still a bit gnarly. Those miters aren't perfect, paint and sanding did me a lot of favors and the door still has a tiny bit of twist to it, but not enough to make me too angry at the finished bit. Couldn't have built this without all the nice help, suggestions and answers from this thread. Thanks all. That Works fucked around with this message at 11:49 on Aug 29, 2018 |
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Aug 29, 2018 11:46
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Feenix posted:I’m going to be making a headboard. We’ve wanted one for a long time. I’m trying to do a variation of a very simple design. Imagine 2 “legs” (The posts) and 3 or 4 slats across the front. And a mantel-like top. Ok? Got that image in your head? It’s pretty basic. Another, "were it me," 1) I'd set your faceboards a half inch high to give your shelf some lip 2) Consider routing the edges of those faceboards to sit a little closer to the legs (I feel like a full 3/4 overlap might look a little fat from the side) 3) Some kind of support midway across that shelf, probably hidden behind the face board depending on how you want it to look Also, doodling at it this is all the drawup I would do. The time you spend learning CAD you could build like, 5 more headboards. I'd probably bother learning it for paid work, but even then just to show clients before work began. If I'm doing something halfway complicated, sometimes I'll draw it up on a piece of graph paper, do my math and buy/cut list then sit it aside. The next day do the same thing on a new sheet of paper and see if my numbers match. Then just get to work. 
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Aug 29, 2018 14:32
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That Works posted:I routered in my 1/4" grooves in the mitered door panels then cut the plywood as close to full size as possible (length of each interior side + 1", each groove was 1/2" deep). From there I glued the plywood into the groove on one long face and let that set up. Then I added in the short top face, glued it up to the plywood and each miter face to each other and set it with a corner clamp. Ahh, so your plywood isn't floating, and is in fact helping to hold the frame together. That'll probably work fine, but usually frame-and-panel construction has the panel floating to allow the frame to move around. For similar reasons, the panel is slightly undercut (so it doesn't completely fill its groove).
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Aug 29, 2018 14:35
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Ahh, so your plywood isn't floating, and is in fact helping to hold the frame together. That'll probably work fine, but usually frame-and-panel construction has the panel floating to allow the frame to move around. For similar reasons, the panel is slightly undercut (so it doesn't completely fill its groove). Yep, it's floating in all the other panels and they are all more undercut, but for the door the soft pine / narrow stringers seemed pretty flimsy for that length and initially trying to nail across a test joint with some brads did not seem encouraging with regards to strength. I could have probably rigged up some fasteners through the backside of the miter facing the interior but this seemed to be solid and light as-is. It'll be interesting to see if wood movement becomes an issue for the way its built. If I had used hardwood for my framing I probably would have done it with a floating panel and some more robust joinery to help the miters. The pine was just splitting down on the ends if I looked at it wrong so... The only other option I considered was making it a 2 part panel with a mortised cross brace just like the side panels, but that didn't look near as cool imo.
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Aug 29, 2018 14:42
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Thanks for the feedback everyone! The point may be moot and I may end up doing a more flat/flush/simple headboard with just a manteled top because to make what I proposed above would end up pushing the foot of the bed too far down (like 6+ inches) which would block a window.
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Aug 29, 2018 14:46
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What does everyone recommend for a topcoat on milk paint? I see split recommendations for either some sort of poly or a wax. This is for a kids toybox, so I woudn't doubt that parts of it could end up in a mouth at some point.
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Aug 29, 2018 15:09
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