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They have router bits especially made for doing just that. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/cmt-851-502-11b-bowl-and-tray-router-bit-with-top-bearing-1-2-sh-1-4-r-1-1-4-d-5-8-cl You'd cut a template out of MDF or whatever and ride the bit around the inside of it.
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Sep 6, 2018 12:18
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:We got contacted a few years ago to stain/lime/wax a buuuunch of old oak barn beams (that someone else had purchased) that were all powder post beetle eaten to go in a squilllion dollar house. We did our job off site at the contractor’s warehouse and it all looked great and they installed all the beams and everyone couldn’t have been happier. About a week later the owner and architect were doing a walkthrough and kept seeing all these little piles of wood dust under all their beautiful old wormy beams. Turns out nobody had fumigated or heat treated them and the architect was very surprised to learn that bug-eaten beams can in fact still be full of active bugs. They had to take them all back down, treat them, and then reinstall them. Well in the case of bark beetles, that was not a concern. Once the trees are dead the beetles have already vacated to live trees. Feenix posted:My fellow woods-people. If I wanted to make like, a steak board, and instead of routing a groove around the edges, actually wanted to, like, bowl it out, do I just do that with a ton of routing back and forth? Wish I could recall what we called the router we had that we'd clamp onto pieces and it would plunge to a set depth and we'd move it around like an etch-a-sketch. Mainly used it for mortices. Man but that thing was a godsend. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 15:39 on Sep 6, 2018 |
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Sep 6, 2018 15:36
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Pantograph? If I didn't have something like that on a raised guide, I'd start from the center and rough cut with a typical 1/2" straight bit. Then finish the outer cut using a template and ball mill bit.
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Sep 6, 2018 15:58
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Hasselblad posted:Wish I could recall what we called the router we had that we'd clamp onto pieces and it would plunge to a set depth and we'd move it around like an etch-a-sketch. Mainly used it for mortices. Man but that thing was a godsend. um, a plunge router? Or is this a 
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Sep 6, 2018 16:06
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Holy poo poo my first double post. I always wondered how that happens to others...I still don't know.
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Sep 6, 2018 16:06
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JEEVES420 posted:Turning the ring and using CA to finish it did give me some trouble sticking to the scrap wood I had it on. I might just get a stick of it to make a multi size ring mount that can go on one of my pen mandrels. That would cut down on so much time. I've got 4 more pen barrels ready, but am waiting on the kits to arrive. Got some maple burl, walnut burl, spalted tamarind (meh), and (my favorite) a bocote. Really going to have to resist the urge to keep the bocote one, it's going to look fantastic with a gunmetal vertex kit. Bocote is such a gorgeous wood. Wish it wasn't so hard on tools though.
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Sep 6, 2018 16:10
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JEEVES420 posted:Holy poo poo my first double post. I always wondered how that happens to others...I still don't know. Quote=/=edit
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Sep 6, 2018 16:14
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JEEVES420 posted:um, a plunge router? Or is this a https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8wZ1v4PIsYI
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Sep 6, 2018 16:25
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Hey, anyone near Rochester, NY that would like some vintage power tools? I am looking for a good home for a DeWalt radial arm saw, a Craftsman 24" scroll saw, and a Craftsman table saw. They need some TLC, since they have been exposed to the elements in my old garage and my porch, but AFAIK they are functional. I had a house fire, and I had to move as a result. I ended up just moving in with my girlfriend, and I don't have a place to store these machines. They aren't without value, but aren't worth the cost of storage for a year, and Craigslist sucks. Free to a good home, just come and get them before someone steals them for scrap metal. I already lost my floor jack to some piece of poo poo who stole it off my porch. PM me or reply or email me gromdul at gmail dot com
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Sep 6, 2018 16:39
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Whats a good finish for MDF that won't make it swell/distort at all? I've never really worked with MDF before (and hope not to again...) I made a quick little ink pad holder for my aunt. My original plan was to paint it for protection but she wants that "wood" look (even though its MDF). Since shes gonna have ink pads and bottles on it, I figure its inevitable she will spill something and ruin it. Spray lacquer okay?
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Sep 6, 2018 17:07
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JEEVES420 posted:um, a plunge router? Or is this a No it was a contraption that actually clamped to the wood and had movement done with wheels along rails, like a CNC mill but completely manual. Yes, it had a router/endmill but I am speaking about the rail and movement system. You literally moved the router with controls like an etch-a-sketch.
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Sep 6, 2018 17:44
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keep it down up there! posted:Whats a good finish for MDF that won't make it swell/distort at all? Definitely don't use anything water based. Could do a veneer, if its easily disassembled/not assembled yet. I'd just seal the edges and paint it.
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Sep 6, 2018 17:48
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Quote=/=edit I wasn't quoting or editing, I hit submit and there was two. Hasselblad posted:No it was a contraption that actually clamped to the wood and had movement done with wheels along rails, like a CNC mill but completely manual. Yes, it had a router/endmill but I am speaking about the rail and movement system. You literally moved the router with controls like an etch-a-sketch. gotcha, we used to just make jigs with plywood and go wild in the space that needed to be routed out with a plunge router.
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Sep 6, 2018 19:14
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Follow up question regarding routing juice grooves into a board. I have the bit I need. What’s the simplest setup to kind of brace my hand router against something to do a juice groove around the edge but inside about an inch all around) on the board. [Ed] this is my router https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-11-Amp-2-HP-1-2-in-Corded-Fixed-Base-Router-R22002/202739521 Feenix fucked around with this message at 20:28 on Sep 6, 2018 |
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Sep 6, 2018 20:26
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Feenix posted:Follow up question regarding routing juice grooves into a board. A router fence would do it if the board is square and your router takes a fence. Doesn't look like it does, but you could screw or clamp something to the base and go real careful like. A pro could do it. If the board is curvy, you'd maybe attach 2 bearings to the base an inch from the bit and again, go real careful like and such.....
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Sep 6, 2018 20:39
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Mr. Mambold posted:A router fence would do it if the board is square and your router takes a fence. Doesn't look like it does, but you could screw or clamp something to the base and go real careful like. A pro could do it. If the board is curvy, you'd maybe attach 2 bearings to the base an inch from the bit and again, go real careful like and such..... Board is a rectangle. Square sides. Should I google “hand router fence”? I can do that.
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Sep 6, 2018 21:07
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Feenix posted:Board is a rectangle. Square sides. Should I google “hand router fence”? I can do that. They have edge follower/guides, but dunno how well that would work with having to re-position when you got to the corners. Perhaps get a bit with a bearing wheel and make a jig to plunge and follow?
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Sep 6, 2018 22:55
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I just used a guide wood and some clamps. Came out decent for a first attempt. Those overshoots weren’t on purpose but I guess after the first one I kinda had to make it symmetrical. 
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Sep 6, 2018 23:37
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Feenix posted:Those overshoots weren’t on purpose but I guess after the first one I kinda had to make it symmetrical. Figuring out how to make your mistakes look intentional is 100% an important woodworking skill. Looks nice, by the way.
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Sep 7, 2018 01:00
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Figuring out how to make your mistakes look intentional is 100% an important woodworking skill. I've been learning this a lot recently. And yeah it looks cool man! Bet with a little sanding even moreso.
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Sep 7, 2018 01:07
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Looks nice. Is it walnut or some kind of foreign wood?
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Sep 7, 2018 01:13
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next time just measure out where you need to end your cut and put a stop in so your router can't go any farther, nice work!
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Sep 7, 2018 01:23
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:next time just measure out where you need to end your cut and put a stop in so your router can't go any farther, nice work! Yeah I thought I’d feel it like, enter pre-cut territory and not have as much resistance but it was subtle. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Looks nice. Is it walnut or some kind of foreign wood? Just a scrap slab of Black Limba.
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Sep 7, 2018 01:49
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Figuring out how to make your mistakes look intentional is 100% an important woodworking skill. I made some marking knife lines on my last project that were too deep to plane out and too visible to ignore. So I widened and extended them into a pattern around the mortises they were laying out, which I then filled with contrasting sawdust to make a poor man's string inlay. It's kind of fun when you get used to it.
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Sep 7, 2018 01:57
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Hasselblad posted:No it was a contraption that actually clamped to the wood and had movement done with wheels along rails, like a CNC mill but completely manual. Yes, it had a router/endmill but I am speaking about the rail and movement system. You literally moved the router with controls like an etch-a-sketch. Pin router?
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Sep 7, 2018 02:45
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Feenix posted:Yeah I thought I’d feel it like, enter pre-cut territory and not have as much resistance but it was subtle. I was going to warn you to undershoot it by 1/4" first pass and you'll be able to see the bit into the next length, that's really gorgeous wood btw.
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Sep 7, 2018 03:06
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Mr. Mambold posted:I was going to warn you to undershoot it by 1/4" first pass and you'll be able to see the bit into the next length, Now I know :GIJOE: Thanks, yeah I really like it. Apparently used a lot for instruments. Hey so when you don’t have a plunge router, what’s a good technique for “entering” (heh) the wood top-down? I did fine, but it was a bit tense and hairy.
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Sep 7, 2018 03:20
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If you think of the router base as a clock and trying to route a line through 3 and 9, put 3 o clock on the work with 9 tilted up in the air and 12 against the fence. Turn it on, keep it against the fence, and slow drop the 9 o’clock side down with a firm grip so it doesn’t run away as it bites the wood. You can also make a very hand fence/jig by screwing a scrap of 1/4 ply or Masonite or whatever to the bottom of a thicker scrap. The thicker scrap is your fence. With whatever bit you want to use for this particular setup, with the router against the thicker scrap cut through the thin ply. Now you have a jig that shows you exactly where the bit is going to cut-the edge of the 1/4 ply is where the bit cuts. Make different ones for various size bits-they’re basically free. Very helpful for string inlay or dado/rabbets or any sort of straight groove you need. Saves trying to measure the from the edge of the bit to the fence or router base or whatever. Same principle works great for circular saws-use the tool to make the jig and it always comes out right. Edit: VVV That’s probably a safer idea VVV Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 04:09 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 7, 2018 04:00
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Drill a pilot hole with a drill bit the same size as your router bit (a hair bigger if you have it). Mark the drill bit with tape or a collar for the depth. Drill two holes touching each other so that your router wants to "walk" in the right path.
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Sep 7, 2018 04:06
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Thumposaurus posted:Pin router? Was this: https://www.ebay.com/i/283101158788...ad6f427fffeba55 One of my favorite tools. Hasselblad fucked around with this message at 15:40 on Sep 7, 2018 |
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Sep 7, 2018 15:34
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If I'm regularly getting sheets of thin plywood (no more than 1/2") that I need to cut down -- but buying a power saw isn't feasible -- what can I do to reliably make hand cuts? Cuts wouldn't have to be perfect, and I wouldn't be working with anything bigger than 24x30 max. Or do I just do bulk cutting sessions and make friends with someone with a table saw?
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Sep 7, 2018 20:19
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Most places that sell full plywood sheets also have panel saws and are willing to do a few cuts for you. Certainly your average big-box hardware store (Home Depot, Lowes, etc.) should.
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Sep 7, 2018 20:24
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That was my first thought but I'm not sure they sell the real good stuff (does Woodcraft do cuts for you?) and/or I might be getting it online
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Sep 7, 2018 20:34
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My local hardwood lumberyard also has hardwood veneer plywood and a panel saw. It can't hurt to check. Otherwise, I'd just drop the $40 on a cheap corded circular saw. That's about the same price as one 4'x8' sheet of nice plywood.
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Sep 7, 2018 20:45
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I didn't want to use any powertools yet and have been cutting 1/4" plywood with a big Dozuki saw (~$30) and it cuts it very well if you score it a bit beforehand. It's not as dead straight as you'd get with a table or track saw or anything, but it's pretty good. Cutting like 4' across only takes a minute or less and wasn't a lot of physical labor. Might not be the best option for you, but it worked for me.
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Sep 7, 2018 20:56
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dupersaurus posted:If I'm regularly getting sheets of thin plywood (no more than 1/2") that I need to cut down -- but buying a power saw isn't feasible -- what can I do to reliably make hand cuts? Cuts wouldn't have to be perfect, and I wouldn't be working with anything bigger than 24x30 max. Or do I just do bulk cutting sessions and make friends with someone with a table saw? What are you using it for? TooMuchAbstraction posted:My local hardwood lumberyard also has hardwood veneer plywood and a panel saw. It can't hurt to check. do this and if you aren't comfortable cutting straight make your own track saw with a level and 2 clamps, just offset it by 1.5" or whatever the guard is depending on which side you're cutting from
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Sep 7, 2018 20:59
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:What are you using it for? Making blanks for woodblock printing I may be able to sell the wife on a cheap circular saw since it should be cheaper than buying the pre-made blocks I've been getting...
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Sep 7, 2018 21:15
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Bottom tier circular saws cost next to nothing these days. I’ve also seen track saws for crazy cheap in bunnings here so they must be even cheaper in the US. Alternatively, do you have a hand plane? That would clean up the edge of a piece cut by hand real nice.
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Sep 7, 2018 21:56
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dupersaurus posted:Making blanks for woodblock printing If you're in the NW you can have my beat up old one
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Sep 7, 2018 22:15
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Any idea what wood this is? I thought it was camphor but it doesn’t smell like camphor (mostly smells like old lady), and seems too hard and looks too red/dark for teak. Thinking it’s maybe this stuff but Ive never seen any in person to compare to. https://www.wood-database.com/sissoo/ Thinking it is a native south Asian wood, as the piece it’s on is Anglo-Indian from probably the late 19th century.  Some poor bastard 150 years ago had to hand plane this very pretty moulding out of solid loving ebony. 
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Sep 7, 2018 23:01
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