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Check youtube/google and see if there's a video or description of how to do it. It might save you a trip to the shop...might not, but it's worth a look. If you can get it out, you can try to dry the thing out with airflow as described, or throw a couple of desiccant packs in it for a couple of hours or something. There are a few ways to skin that cat.
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Sep 9, 2018 03:48
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Godholio posted:Check youtube/google and see if there's a video or description of how to do it. It might save you a trip to the shop...might not, but it's worth a look. Yeah, I've looked around, and on my Gen 4 Outback it would require removing the front bumper (2-3 hours in total for a first timer) and I'm not looking forward to doing that. But I will try packing some desiccant packs in when I replace the bulbs and inspect/seal whatever seals are visible. Hopefully that will get me through the winter.
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Sep 9, 2018 04:43
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Don't leave them in there...I am not paying your bills if that poo poo catches fire or something.
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Sep 9, 2018 05:54
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Godholio posted:Don't leave them in there...I am not paying your bills if that poo poo catches fire or something. Dessicant packs contain silica. Unless you're filling your headlights with fluorine, it's not going to burn.
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Sep 9, 2018 06:05
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Godholio posted:Don't leave them in there...I am not paying your bills if that poo poo catches fire or something. Oh poo poo, thank you for pointing that out. I totally would have left them in there for a few months.
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Sep 9, 2018 06:06
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Deteriorata posted:Dessicant packs contain silica. Unless you're filling your headlights with fluorine, it's not going to burn. paper wrappers?
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Sep 9, 2018 06:11
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Queen Combat posted:paper wrappers? Possible, but they'd have to be pretty close to the bulb. Several sites have actually recommended sticking dessicant packs in headlights to help keep them dry, so it's not a dumb idea. Some headlight designs leave more room than others.
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Sep 9, 2018 06:18
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theHUNGERian posted:Sylvania Silverstar H7. H7 bulbs have really short life in general. Rated life of a basic H7 bulb is 270 hours. Rated life of a silverstar or a silverstar ultra is 125 hours. A more normal bulb on other cars - like the 9006 has a life of 1000 hours. You can look at the reviews on Amazon for any kind of H7 bulb. You'll find Subaru and Mazda owners bitching about them on there. It's normal!
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Sep 9, 2018 07:10
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Additionally, if the bulb isn't shattering or deformed in some way, it's very unlikely to be the condensation causing it. Silverstars are short lived to begin with.
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Sep 9, 2018 08:09
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I think it's about time I started changing my own oil on my hatchback civic. I've got a flat paved driveway I can do it on. What's the basics I need to get going with it? My assumptions so far: - (2? 4?) jackstands - Some sort of tray/basin to catch the outgoing oil in and a sealable container to transport it - Find out where I can get rid of the old oil locally I've got a wide variety of tools including sockets and a torque wrench, but if there's anything specific that you find a must have that would be cool to know. (I'll check out a guide for my specific car beforehand).
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Sep 9, 2018 15:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:I think it's about time I started changing my own oil on my hatchback civic. I've got a flat paved driveway I can do it on. What's the basics I need to get going with it? If you are only going to do oil changes, a couple of ramps would be easier. Saves a ton of time and (assuming you buy decent ones) are perfectly safe. Rubber gloves and paper towels is a must, and a good stable funnel is gold. Don't use the paper ones that sometimes come with the oil, it's a mess waiting to happen. I use the containers that the new oil comes in to transport the old oil in. I'd get some of that oil spill graveldustwhatever it is in case you do spill some. Get proper oil collection pans, that preferably have some sort of good funnel built in / look like they can be poured without making a mess. If you don't want your paved driveway to get stained, get a tarp.
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Sep 9, 2018 16:02
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Sometimes you can't use the new oil container (like if you car needs 4 or 6L and you're buying 5L containers) Get one of these combo drainpan/container: https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/sca-oil-drain-container---8-litre/363985.html#q=oil+drain+pan&segment=1&page=1 Low profile so you don't need jacks, stands or ramps for most cars. Can take the old oil to the recycle depo to empty and don't need to mess around with the old type drain pan spouts and funnels trying to refill an old oil container. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:10 on Sep 9, 2018 |
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Sep 9, 2018 16:07
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Ramps are nice. Otherwise, a good trolley floor jack and at least two jackstands. Wrench to remove/reinstall drain plug Band wrench, or properly-sized filter head wrench to remove the oil filter. Lots of rags. I recommend a large "cookie sheet" (4'x2', available at most auto parts stores) to save your driveway. Three out of four times, some oil is liable to escape, despite your best efforts. If orientation enables it, pre-fill the filter with oil. Even if it's a side-install, fill it & pour the excess out (to put in the engine). Anything that helps the filter fill quicker means less time your engine runs without a goood supply of oil.
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Sep 9, 2018 16:07
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A new crush washer for the drain plug is really nice to have. I've never used a torque wrench for that job, but if you re-use the old washer you need to tighten the plug much harder for it not to leak, sometimes to the point of being scary. They're really cheap too, like a dollar or less.
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Sep 9, 2018 16:19
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Yeah, always change the washer or plug (depending on design) when doing an oil change. E: Also save some thick and large cardboard boxes (a few of beer cartons will do) to have something to lay on and to save your driveway. More comfortable than a tarp or a tin "drip pan". E: if you don't drink litres of beer a week then maybe get some thin plywood? If you have storage space to keep dirty plywood somewhere that is. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 16:28 on Sep 9, 2018 |
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Sep 9, 2018 16:22
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Invalido posted:A new crush washer for the drain plug is really nice to have. I've never used a torque wrench for that job, but if you re-use the old washer you need to tighten the plug much harder for it not to leak, sometimes to the point of being scary. They're really cheap too, like a dollar or less. I've been putting on new plugs with washers every few oil changes, but bought a bag full of washers to save a bit of money not having the buy the whole plug. However, the washers that came with the plugs appear to be "captured" and I can't take them off and I don't know what to do about it. Example of the plugs on my VW:  Doesn't slide over the threads, doesn't "unscrew" from the thread. Guess I could use my Dremel to get them off?
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Sep 9, 2018 16:36
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0toShifty posted:H7 bulbs have really short life in general. STR posted:Additionally, if the bulb isn't shattering or deformed in some way, it's very unlikely to be the condensation causing it. Silverstars are short lived to begin with. Thanks guys. I guess I'll just keep replacing them and make sure I always have a spare pair with me. Edit: What's my best option for a bright, durable, and street legal H7 bulb if I were willing to sacrifice cost? theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Sep 9, 2018 |
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Sep 9, 2018 16:50
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This is all very useful info, thanks.MrOnBicycle posted:If you are only going to do oil changes, a couple of ramps would be easier. Certainly to begin with I'm focusing on the most frequent maintenance, maybe brakes later, but not just yet. MrOnBicycle posted:Saves a ton of time and (assuming you buy decent ones) are perfectly safe. What constitutes "decent ones"? Would these pass muster? MrOnBicycle posted:Rubber gloves and paper towels is a must, and a good stable funnel is gold. Don't use the paper ones that sometimes come with the oil, it's a mess waiting to happen. PainterofCrap posted:Lots of rags. Got 'em. I've also got a funnel I use for washer liquid filling. MrOnBicycle posted:I use the containers that the new oil comes in to transport the old oil in. MrOnBicycle posted:Get proper oil collection pans, that preferably have some sort of good funnel built in / look like they can be poured without making a mess. Fo3 posted:Sometimes you can't use the new oil container (like if you car needs 4 or 6L and you're buying 5L containers) Funky. I'll get one of those. Fo3 posted:Low profile so you don't need jacks, stands or ramps for most cars. Can take the old oil to the recycle depo to empty and don't need to mess around with the old type drain pan spouts and funnels trying to refill an old oil container. The car is already quite low profile so I'll want to have it lifted at least a little bit for me to get under it. MrOnBicycle posted:I'd get some of that oil spill graveldustwhatever it is in case you do spill some. MrOnBicycle posted:If you don't want your paved driveway to get stained, get a tarp. PainterofCrap posted:I recommend a large "cookie sheet" (4'x2', available at most auto parts stores) to save your driveway. Three out of four times, some oil is liable to escape, despite your best efforts. The drive as it stands is being ripped up in not too long so I won't worry too much about staining, but I'll do something like that when the new one is in. PainterofCrap posted:Wrench to remove/reinstall drain plug Got 'em. PainterofCrap posted:Band wrench, or properly-sized filter head wrench to remove the oil filter. Not got 'em, will get 'em. PainterofCrap posted:If orientation enables it, pre-fill the filter with oil. Even if it's a side-install, fill it & pour the excess out (to put in the engine). Anything that helps the filter fill quicker means less time your engine runs without a goood supply of oil. This is a bit of a question mark as I can't figure it out from internet searches, but it looks like it might be horizontal with a slight slope in the wrong direction. Invalido posted:A new crush washer for the drain plug is really nice to have. I've never used a torque wrench for that job, but if you re-use the old washer you need to tighten the plug much harder for it not to leak, sometimes to the point of being scary. They're really cheap too, like a dollar or less. Smart.
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Sep 9, 2018 16:53
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If your car is lowered (aftermarket) or just really low from the factory then most ramps aren't going to pass muster. Check before you buy any. Those ones you linked don't seem very high though, so they might be low enough for a low car just to get arms under there for an oil change . For my cars I just built ramps using lengths of wood 2x6", making a long gentle incline. E: Because I wanted high ones so I could get really right under the car for suspension and exhaust work and also the wood was free anyway. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 17:30 on Sep 9, 2018 |
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Sep 9, 2018 17:20
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It's not *low* low, but it is hits-some-speed-bumps low.
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Sep 9, 2018 17:32
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theHUNGERian posted:Thanks guys. I guess I'll just keep replacing them and make sure I always have a spare pair with me. https://store.candlepower.com/
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Sep 9, 2018 17:40
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Hi, I have a Dodge 2500 Ram 2002 Quad cab (suicide doors) 4x4 automatic with the 5.9L diesel engine and 147,000 miles. Bought it this year and, like an idiot, went to the fuel station and pulled up to the gas nozzle and pumped about 7 gallons of gas into my ~30 gallon diesel tank with 15 gallons of diesel in it. I realized my mistake and stopped pumping. Did not attempt to start the truck, instead waited for a tow. Towed it to my future in-laws house and looked up on how to empty the tank. Siphoned/pumped out all of the fuel with 5 foot of hose. Had to remove the tank to really get a good angle with the siphon. This tank is a pain in the rear end to get out, the two quick disconnect fuel lines and the electrical connection are very close together and at the top of the tank. Now I understand why some search results recommended removing the truck bed first. I had to partially lower the tank to get at the top of the tank. Rinsed the tank out with a gallon of diesel, emptied it again, and then filled it up with new diesel. My question is, what fuel additive should I put in there to make sure there is enough lubrication in the fuel system? From my searching online, Cummins recommends Power Service Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost. Any other options? Took me 4 hours to do this, compared to the estimated 2 hours, at least I saved around $800 (edit)instead of having a mechanic shop do it. The Gardenator fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Sep 9, 2018 |
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Sep 9, 2018 17:55
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The Gardenator posted:Hi, I have a Dodge 2500 Ram 2002 Quad cab (suicide doors) 4x4 automatic with the 5.9L diesel engine and 147,000 miles. Bought it this year and, like an idiot, went to the fuel station and pulled up to the gas nozzle and pumped about 7 gallons of gas into my ~30 gallon diesel tank with 15 gallons of diesel in it. I realized my mistake and stopped pumping. Did not attempt to start the truck, instead waited for a tow. Towed it to my future in-laws house and looked up on how to empty the tank. Siphoned/pumped out all of the fuel with 5 foot of hose. Had to remove the tank to really get a good angle with the siphon. This tank is a pain in the rear end to get out, the two quick disconnect fuel lines and the electrical connection are very close together and at the top of the tank. Now I understand why some search results recommended removing the truck bed first. I had to partially lower the tank to get at the top of the tank. Rinsed the tank out with a gallon of diesel, emptied it again, and then filled it up with new diesel. My question is, what fuel additive should I put in there to make sure there is enough lubrication in the fuel system? From my searching online, Cummins recommends Power Service Diesel Kleen +Cetane Boost. Any other options? Sounds to me like you've done it pretty much perfectly. I personally don't think you need to worry about an additive: the rule of thumb is that you can get away with 10% gas in a diesel engine and with all your conscientious work, it sounds like it would be a tenth of that at most. Keep it topped up for a couple of thousand mile if you want, but I doubt even that is necessary.
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Sep 9, 2018 18:30
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Uthor posted:I've been putting on new plugs with washers every few oil changes, but bought a bag full of washers to save a bit of money not having the buy the whole plug. However, the washers that came with the plugs appear to be "captured" and I can't take them off and I don't know what to do about it. You don't have to replace it unless it's a crush washer, a paper washer, or damaged. A lot of vehicles do NOT use crush washers. None of my cars ever have. Jaded Burnout posted:
I don't think it was your plan, but don't use the same one for both.
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Sep 9, 2018 19:33
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Godholio posted:I don't think it was your plan, but don't use the same one for both. You can clean the funnel if you want to use it for a different fluid. This is me being argumentative. Every car guy should own at least a dozen different types of funnels though 
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Sep 9, 2018 20:33
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Jaded Burnout posted:I think it's about time I started changing my own oil on my hatchback civic. I've got a flat paved driveway I can do it on. What's the basics I need to get going with it? Very important that you do not overtighten the drain bolt when putting it back on. Replace the oil filter when changing oil, always. Use rubber gloves and avoid draining hot oil if possible. No matter how hard you try you will drip a little bit so choose somewhere you don't care too much about or go with that cookie tray idea posted above. If you're planning on 3 or 4+ oil changes during your ownership time I'd invest in this drain attachment or similar.
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Sep 9, 2018 20:54
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Jaded Burnout posted:I think it's about time I started changing my own oil on my hatchback civic. I've got a flat paved driveway I can do it on. What's the basics I need to get going with it? I’m sure this already got mentioned, so I will repeat it, get wheel stocks and use them.
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Sep 9, 2018 21:20
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Godholio posted:I don't think it was your plan, but don't use the same one for both. Washer talking about? Oil definitely get another one. GEEKABALL posted:I’m sure this already got mentioned, so I will repeat it, get wheel stocks and use them. Nobody did, so thanks for doing so.
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Sep 9, 2018 21:48
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PainterofCrap posted:If orientation enables it, pre-fill the filter with oil. Even if it's a side-install, fill it & pour the excess out (to put in the engine). Anything that helps the filter fill quicker means less time your engine runs without a goood supply of oil. On my older cars I pull the EFI fuse and give it 10-15 seconds of cranking to build pressure and circulate oil before starting it. Most new cars have a clear flood mode where you can hold the gas to the floor to prevent it from starting while cranking to accomplish the same thing.
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Sep 9, 2018 22:11
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Electrical question here, vehicle is an 04 Ranger, 3.0L, automatic trans: An error code showed up a few days ago indicating both of my downstream O2 sensors were no longer giving data. I looked at the data in Torque and the upstream sensors on both banks are just fine, but the downstream sensors are now flatlining - I took a look and neither sensor's pigtail is damaged, and neither are the sensors themselves or the connectors(there's some oil on the outside and wires of one downstream sensor from my oil pressure switch crapping out and leaking, but the other one is clean, dry, and pristine). Both sensors are relatively new(replaced both simultaneously about 2 years ago) so the odds of both just flat-out breaking simultaneously are pretty low. The pigtails coming out of the harness towards the sensors themselves look alright, no obvious melting or abrasion going on. I disconnected one of my upstream sensors and viewed the live data through Torque, and it mimiced the symptoms the downstream ones have started experiencing - it's probably a broken wire somewhere. I got ahold of the wiring diagram for my engine sensors and it looks like the light blue/orange one is the common wire on the data side of the sensors(they're heated) - that ought to be the ground, and probably the correct place to start, right? I have a suspicion about where the breakage is likely to have happened, but has anybody else dealt with this before? Rooting around in the wiring harness is always a time-sucking bitch, so any prior experience or troubleshooting tricks for this would be much appreciated.
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Sep 9, 2018 22:56
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opengl128 posted:On my older cars I pull the EFI fuse and give it 10-15 seconds of cranking to build pressure and circulate oil before starting it. Most new cars have a clear flood mode where you can hold the gas to the floor to prevent it from starting while cranking to accomplish the same thing. That is an excellent solution. I am old; my primary owned vehicle is 52-years old, so I don’t think like that. I have to see if I can do that with my ‘new’ car (‘93 Roadmaster); should be some kind of fuse or breaker... PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 02:52 on Sep 10, 2018 |
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Sep 9, 2018 23:53
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Am I some kind of troglodyte for just slapping some oil-resistant RTV on the plug before I put it back on my TJ? It doesn't leak from the plug, anyway, just the rear main seal.
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Sep 10, 2018 01:25
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theHUNGERian posted:Thanks guys. I guess I'll just keep replacing them and make sure I always have a spare pair with me. I like the Phillips Xtreme Vision, but you're going to run into the same issue of them burning out faster than stock (anything brighter will sacrifice bulb life for brightness). They're supposed to be on par with the Osram Nightbreaker that everyone has a hard on for, with the bonus that they're easily available on Amazon in the US.
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Sep 10, 2018 07:57
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Also worth noting with Silverstars, the reason their lifespan is so short is they're what is commonly referred to as "blue bulbs" - the glass on the bulbs has a blue tint that is supposed to generate "whiter" light. This is largely marketing fluff. Halogen bulbs generate the majority of their light output on the warm/yellow end of the spectrum, and tinting the glass blue dramatically cuts down on the bulb's output. To overcome this and get output into the bulb's spec the filament must be over-driven to generate more light to overcome the blue tint. Which substantially reduces the bulb's lifespan, and in addition you still end up with a bulb whose output is towards the lower end of the output spec. At the end of the day you're paying more for a bulb that outputs less light, and has a noticeably shorter lifespan. Honestly I'd just get a plain, clear glass bulb from a reputable manufacturer. Geoj fucked around with this message at 17:09 on Sep 10, 2018 |
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Sep 10, 2018 17:07
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Is it possible that one brand new tire on and AWD car (2010 Subaru Impreza) could damage one of the other tires due to having a different tread level? I put four new tires on last fall, but I had the front right tire replaced (for free) last month after somebody smashed into me and hosed up that tire. Yesterday, towards the end of a ~300 mile drive, the right REAR tire went flat on me. I couldn't find any punctures in it, so I'm not sure what happened. That one replacement tire last month was part of some work that's under warranty by State Farm (the dude who me's insurance). Mostly I'm wondering if I'd have a case of I went back to them and asked to have all the tires replaced like I probably should have asked for to begin with.
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Sep 10, 2018 17:50
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Any tips to remove a super stubborn bearing from inside of a knuckle? I've tried a bearing puller, putting a bead of weld on the race, beating the poo poo out of it with a cold chisel and hammer, cutting through and hoping it cracks, and all I managed to do was ruin the knuckle. I still have 3 more to do and don't want to buy 3 more new ones
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Sep 10, 2018 19:45
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Stevie Lee posted:Is it possible that one brand new tire on and AWD car (2010 Subaru Impreza) could damage one of the other tires due to having a different tread level? Not likely. How many miles have you put on the other tires? If they were worn the gently caress out, it might mess with things like the ABS and such. But you probably don't have much to worry about.
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Sep 10, 2018 19:53
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the other tires had less than 8,000 miles on them since last fall. I'm trying to get state farm to replace them all now, though. I doubt they'll go for it, but it's worth a shot. Supposedly the repair shop was supposed to explain to me the importance of the 2/32" tread difference that Subaru recommends/requires and possibly have me sign a waiver of some sort about only replacing one tire, but they didn't mention it. The state farm dude put me on hold and called the shop and got told that they just don't measure the tread at all there. during that repair, the same shop managed to wire a headlight replacement in a way that the turn signal light turned on instead of the headlight (but not at all when I used the blinker), and the high beam didn't function at all. they sent it out of the shop and told me it was good to go, only for me to discover that poo poo once it got dark. oh, and the one tire that they did put on has had a slow leak since I picked it up.
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Sep 10, 2018 20:19
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The Door Frame posted:Any tips to remove a super stubborn bearing from inside of a knuckle? I've tried a bearing puller, putting a bead of weld on the race, beating the poo poo out of it with a cold chisel and hammer, cutting through and hoping it cracks, and all I managed to do was ruin the knuckle. I still have 3 more to do and don't want to buy 3 more new ones Do you have access to an acetylene torch? I'd try heating the knuckle around the race and then try to drive it out with a BFH.
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Sep 10, 2018 20:29
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Stevie Lee posted:Is it possible that one brand new tire on and AWD car (2010 Subaru Impreza) could damage one of the other tires due to having a different tread level? Your tires won't be harmed by the mismatched diameters, but your drivetrain really doesn't like it. Press for all new tires or get the new one shaved to match.
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Sep 10, 2018 20:33
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