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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I do them with a crosscut sled on the table saw with a stop for length. Radial arm saw does well too-you've just got to have a stop or you'll never cut both faces the same. Cut the shoulders that way and then rip off the cheeks on the bandsaw or an upright tenoning jig. If you want centered tenons you can also just do the whole thing on a crosscut sled with a dado set. Also on the table saw you can go ahead and cut the top and bottom off and it all comes out square so you've got a shoulder on all 4 sides. It's all "Indonesian mahogany" i.e. some random tropical hardwood that looks like mahogany for the most part. I got it really cheap off of Craigslist from a guy that must have had some access to wood they use for shipping heavy equipment or something. the wood is in boards about 7' long and around 2" square, thus the narrow laminations. I got 50 boards for around $200CAD so I won't be complaining about nail holes. Oh and for the legs and aprons I used wood I got from another guy claiming to be selling something similar but his was closer to 2" x 3". It was also in much worse shape as he had it just sitting stacked up in his yard out in the rain for who knows how long. Some of it was rotted and it definitely was a bunch of different species. If you were to inspect the legs and aprons closely you'd see they are all a bit different and some have bug holes in them. Oh, as for the tenon's. I did those pretty sloppy. I used a cross cut sled but the sled itself came with the saw and fits too loosely in the mitre slot so there is some slop plus I didn't use a stop block so I was just cutting to a line by eye. I definitely could have taken my time and done a better job there in retrospect.
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Oct 1, 2018 06:28
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| # ? May 31, 2024 11:45 |
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I'm building a Nicholson bench out of SYP. Is there any sense in finishing it for protection, or is the protection that my benchtop cost $12, so don't sweat it?
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Oct 1, 2018 13:27
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Light coat of BLO?
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Oct 1, 2018 13:32
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:The d8 is actually pretty trivial, because the cuts are all at 90 degrees. Zip off four faces, tape the faces back down to give support, flip the piece over, zip off the other four. The d10 is harder almost entirely because I can't align the cuts with a fence; I'm freehanding it. I'd really like to have a disposable hand or something that doesn't care if it touches the blade. Huxley posted:I'm building a Nicholson bench out of SYP. Is there any sense in finishing it for protection, or is the protection that my benchtop cost $12, so don't sweat it?
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Oct 1, 2018 13:51
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I usually pour out finishes that I'm using into small Tupperware cups so I don't contaminate the container. I can never guess how much finish I really need so any leftover, I brush off the bench and just wipe it on. Same for other heavy use shop furniture.
Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Oct 1, 2018 |
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Oct 1, 2018 16:15
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Speaking of finish I wanted some paste wax so I made some. When I bought the beeswax I picked up white, natural and some black wax, hoping I'd end up with three different finishes. In person there isn't a visible difference. On the plus side I've got a whole bunch of finish to use now, plus half a bottle of BLO.
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Oct 1, 2018 19:17
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Huxley posted:I'm building a Nicholson bench out of SYP. Is there any sense in finishing it for protection, or is the protection that my benchtop cost $12, so don't sweat it? I didn't bother.
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Oct 1, 2018 19:53
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This is kinda random, but I bought a teak bed frame from the 60s that uses cam locks and bolts (I think this is what they're called? similar to IKEA stuff?) and its in pretty good condition except it is squeaky as gently caress. The sides are not completely flush with the headboard and end boards (where the posts are) and a couple of the metal bolts that the cams lock into are a little loose. I don't THINK it's going to collapse but it sure sounds like it. Is there anything I can do to fix this or make it feel a little more solid? A friend suggested wood glue but that sounds like a good way to make it difficult to disassemble and wouldn't i need to make sure the ends were firmly pressed to make sure the glue had good contact?
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Oct 1, 2018 23:35
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If you take out the hardware and the wood is all in good shape, it's just wobbly when it's as tight as it'll turn, put a couple of big fat washers behind the cam bolts and tighten it back up. Repeat as necessary. If you've still got wobble because the frame doesn't meet the headboard flush, you can tighten it up then shim the gap gently. If it's loose because the wood is falling apart, it's a bigger issue, obviously.
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Oct 2, 2018 00:07
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Hi. I’m doing baby’s first cutting boards for Christmas presents this year. I’m using Purple Heart, oak and maple. Here is my status as of now, please ignore the saw blade burn marks.  The oak and the maple are not as contrasting as I’d like them to be. Is there any stain or finish, food safe, that someone can recommend that might make the oak darker than the maple?
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Oct 2, 2018 00:30
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How thin is it? I like the pattern
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Oct 2, 2018 00:35
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:How thin is it? I like the pattern Each strip is 22 mm wide. I gained an appreciation for the metric system while working on these.
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Oct 2, 2018 00:53
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AFewBricksShy posted:Hi. I’m doing baby’s first cutting boards for Christmas presents this year. I’m using Purple Heart, oak and maple. Test scraps first with whatever finish you are planning on. Wood does funny stuff once you start rubbing oil on it and it may turn out fine. Especially oak, which can get trippy finished anyway.
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Oct 2, 2018 00:53
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Yeah, once you put finish on it I'd wager that the contrast will be significantly stronger. Looking good, in any case! I don't usually use oak for cutting boards; its grain is a little too open for my tastes. But it looks great!
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Oct 2, 2018 00:57
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AFewBricksShy posted:Hi. I’m doing baby’s first cutting boards for Christmas presents this year. I’m using Purple Heart, oak and maple. Today I remembered why I always try and rip big chunks of solid wood on the bandsaw. 8" wide 10' long 8/4 african mahogany board (which is normally very stable?) bowed open 3" when I ripped it. Fairly straight, even grain too, but I guess it was secretly some funky reaction wood or had a bad time in the kiln. 
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Oct 2, 2018 01:15
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My sister knows she’s getting this for Christmas and has already said she’s most likely going to use it as a serving tray, but I’m sealing it with food safe mineral oil and beeswax anyway, so I’m not too concerned about the porosity of the oak so much. I’m head over heels with the purple heart though. Here’s the one I did for my mom.  That is maple, Purple Heart and walnut. I still need to sand and seal it though.
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Oct 2, 2018 01:19
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Huxley posted:If you take out the hardware and the wood is all in good shape, it's just wobbly when it's as tight as it'll turn, put a couple of big fat washers behind the cam bolts and tighten it back up. Repeat as necessary. I guess I assumed that the bolts would be permanently affixed and I’m not sure why. They would just be screwed in then and I should be able to safely unscrew them/tighten them?
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Oct 2, 2018 02:26
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
I hate fuckers who flash dry lumber for a quick turnaround buck. Not saying that happened here, but it's what I had similar situations with.
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Oct 2, 2018 03:06
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Huxley posted:Test scraps first with whatever finish you are planning on. Wood does funny stuff once you start rubbing oil on it and it may turn out fine. Especially oak, which can get trippy finished anyway. TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, once you put finish on it I'd wager that the contrast will be significantly stronger. AFewBricksShy posted:My sister knows she’s getting this for Christmas and has already said she’s most likely going to use it as a serving tray, but I’m sealing it with food safe mineral oil and beeswax anyway, so I’m not too concerned about the porosity of the oak so much. Gorgeous! One thing I noted (although I had “black” walnut, was that once I mineral oiled it, the walnut and Purple Heart became almost equally dark. That is to say, the contrast all but disappeared. I (maybe ignorantly) assume it has to do with how the purple heart is so loving dense and the walnut was not, thus could retain much more oil. Just a thing to note. If your sister wants it to be more serving trayish, and you want more of a sheen on it... (A finished look) you can put on mineral oil, and sand with successively higher and higher grits. So basically: 80 120 Wet it (water) 220 Mineral oil let sit for 5 min Sand oily 400 (wipe clean) Mineral oil 5 min Sand oily 800 (wipe clean) Mineral oil let sit for 5 min Sand oily 1000 (wipe clean) Mineral oil 5 min Sand oily 2000 (wipe clean) Wait overnight Beeswax/paste You can get it to have a pretty nice, lacquery look if you want. ========= My question: I’m ready to seal my stained red oak and cherry headboard. I’m not trying to cut corners here but it’s cooling off and getting damp in the PNW. How few coats of poly can I get away with and still have good “headboard levels”* of protection? * like, for a table I’d do lots of coats, because it needs to take a beating. Does a headboard?? And do you think poly is the way to go? I’m just looking for simple, durable, and ideally, low off-gassing time.
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Oct 2, 2018 03:40
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Feenix posted:* like, for a table I’d do lots of coats, because it needs to take a beating. Does a headboard?? Depends on who's using it. 
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Oct 2, 2018 11:38
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Might as well have built a door because I walked right into that one...
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Oct 2, 2018 14:52
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Stultus Maximus posted:Depends on who's using it. 
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Oct 2, 2018 15:46
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:
This! I overlooked this post, but red oak specifically is verboten because of the open grain.
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Oct 2, 2018 16:25
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Stultus Maximus posted:Depends on who's using it. Mr. Mambold posted:I hate fuckers who flash dry lumber for a quick turnaround buck. Not saying that happened here, but it's what I had similar situations with.
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Oct 2, 2018 16:29
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Mr. Mambold posted:This! I overlooked this post, but red oak specifically is verboten because of the open grain. I’m 99% sure that it is white oak
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Oct 2, 2018 17:44
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:We made a lot of 4-poster beds where I used to work, and there was always this awkward moment when we moved the old bed at delivery of "what're we going to find under/behind this mattress." I also learned never to ask what happened when someone brought a broken bed in to get repaired. Speaking of, I tripped and fell against the footboard of my bed. The bed looks kind of like this:  The horizontal turned piece on the footboard cracked, but not all the way through. Is there anything to do about this?
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Oct 2, 2018 23:01
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Stultus Maximus posted:Speaking of, I tripped and fell against the footboard of my bed. The bed looks kind of like this: Dab some glue into the crack with a toothpick or something.
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Oct 2, 2018 23:18
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Dab some glue into the crack with a toothpick or something. if its a large crack use a tourniquet to "clamp" it while the glue dries.
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Oct 2, 2018 23:21
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Dab some glue into the crack with a toothpick or something. AFewBricksShy posted:I’m 99% sure that it is white oak
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Oct 2, 2018 23:40
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:And if it's a hairline crack too small to get a toothpick in, get some really thin viscosity superglue at a hobby shop and it will wick way up in there. Razor blades are nice thin glue spreaders in cracks too. I use 2p-10 thin a lot and its crazy to see how strong the capillary action can be
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Oct 2, 2018 23:44
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I made a thing that doesn't wobble!  Still gotta make the deadman, but it's pretty much done.
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Oct 3, 2018 01:22
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bobua posted:I made a thing that doesn't wobble! oh hell yeah
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Oct 3, 2018 01:26
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bobua posted:I made a thing that doesn't wobble!  Great work man
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Oct 3, 2018 01:39
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That's a good-looking bench. Any idea how much it weighs?
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Oct 3, 2018 01:46
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That's a good-looking bench. Any idea how much it weighs? Thanks! I don't really have any idea. Its about 80 inches long, 24 inches wide, and a little over 4 inches thick. Each leg is 3.5x4 i think, hard maple and walnut.
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Oct 3, 2018 01:55
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bobua posted:I made a thing that doesn't wobble! Very nice
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Oct 3, 2018 02:13
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I know red oak is known to be very very porous for end grain, etc, but is it ok enough used edge grain for a non cutting food surface? Like a serving platter thing.?
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Oct 3, 2018 02:41
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Pretty much done this cabinet, just need to add drawer bottoms. This will be the last piece of furniture I build at this shop, we're moving at the end of the month to a new city so everything is being packed up to move. Hopefully I can take some nice pics of this before we move, but until then this crappy pic will do. It's cherry with quilted maple for the drawer fronts and panels. 
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Oct 3, 2018 02:51
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Feenix posted:I know red oak is known to be very very porous for end grain, etc, but is it ok enough used edge grain for a non cutting food surface? Like a serving platter thing.? Depends on if the food is anything moister than crackers. It's porous on the face, everywhere it has pores. Maybe put a bartop finish on it, idk. edit Meow Meow Meow posted:Pretty much done this cabinet, just need to add drawer bottoms. Yowza. You rule.
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Oct 3, 2018 02:57
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Meow Meow Meow posted:Pretty much done this cabinet, just need to add drawer bottoms. This is outstanding and inspiring! Mr. Mambold posted:Depends on if the food is anything moister than crackers. It's porous on the face, everywhere it has pores. Maybe put a bartop finish on it, idk. Yeah maybe I’ll just have to stain and varnish it alongside my headboard and make it a little keys tray or something... thanks!
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Oct 3, 2018 03:23
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