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keep it down up there! posted:. They can, but if you overload an outlet, (which has been known to happen in a workshop), now you're walking around a shop full of dangerous tools in the dark looking for the breaker box. Plus the lights are unlikely to be on a 20A circuit, which is handy for power tools.
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Oct 10, 2018 18:07
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:What's the best way to stabilize some big rounds (~24" dia x 5-6" thick) of freshly-cut black walnut? I live in northern Colorado, so dry and quickly cooling off for the season.
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Oct 10, 2018 18:25
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One Legged Ninja posted:They can, but if you overload an outlet, (which has been known to happen in a workshop), now you're walking around a shop full of dangerous tools in the dark looking for the breaker box. Plus the lights are unlikely to be on a 20A circuit, which is handy for power tools. Yeah, I'd recommend keeping the lights on a separate circuit if you can. Also, make sure your circuits are all GFCI-protected. Especially if you're doing the wiring yourself; it's pretty easy to create a ground fault accidentally and much better to discover that by having the circuit disable itself as soon as you flip on the breaker, than by a fire starting or you zapping yourself.
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Oct 10, 2018 18:40
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think pretty much every major fuckup I�ve made or injury I�ve gotten has been after 4pm at the end of a long day when I should have been cleaning up or sanding or doing something mindless. Sometimes the most productive thing you can do is stop working. When I asked for an example of the type of bookcase they wanted they couldn't provide one and just said "Standard Wood" and "simple". Chamfers and a arch are about as Standard and Simple a look you can get. They really do add a bit of depth to an otherwise plain design.
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Oct 10, 2018 19:01
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You can brush a couple heavy coats of Pentacryl on every few days too. It’s like ethylene glycol but specifically formulated for wood and works well. Melted wax over the endgrain or a heavy coat of paint will at least help keep it from checking until you have time to really soak it in something. Keep it out of the sun in any case. Cool, thanks. Will it cause any complications with eventual sanding/staining/finishing?
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Oct 10, 2018 19:05
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Cool, thanks. Will it cause any complications with eventual sanding/staining/finishing?
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Oct 10, 2018 19:21
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Cool, thanks. Will it cause any complications with eventual sanding/staining/finishing? I was just looking it up because I have 6' of maple that I need to deal with. I figured I could take a few rounds before cutting the rest into short boards for something. My sisters are both really into the live edge finish right now, and the tree was cut down on family land, so it would make a nice gift if I can managed to keep it from splitting. quote:Once the wood is dry, it can be sanded, stained, wood burned, glued and finished (sealed). We recommend using oil or alcohol based stains, dyes and sealers as water based products may not dry properly and leave the surface of the wood tacky. Pentacryl™ will not discolor the wood, is non-hygroscopic and will not oxidize, decompose or migrate in the wood when exposed to different degrees of temperature and relative humidity. To determine how much Pentacryl is needed for your project, use our Wood Calculator.
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Oct 10, 2018 19:33
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Hm. The calculator tells me I'll need about 5 gallons of the stuff. Perhaps I'll just get enough to treat a couple rounds and hope the others don't split too bad. What's the word for that technique where you pound in a little bowtie-shaped peg to hold a split? Also, would end grain sealer do the same job? Or would I run the risk of the wood splitting as soon as I sanded through the end grain a few months down the road? Edit: I called a guy at the local specialty lumber store, where they do a lot of live edge slab and similar stuff, to see if they carried Pentacryl, and he recommended Anchorseal instead, plus drilling out the pith. Anybody got experience with it? HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 21:05 on Oct 10, 2018 |
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Oct 10, 2018 20:42
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:What's the word for that technique where you pound in a little bowtie-shaped peg to hold a split? Butterfly joint.
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Oct 10, 2018 21:03
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HenryJLittlefinger posted:Hm. The calculator tells me I'll need about 5 gallons of the stuff. Perhaps I'll just get enough to treat a couple rounds and hope the others don't split too bad. I can’t see how drilling out the pith would really help, but it might. Walnut pith is pretty soft and punky so you’d probably want to fill it anyway. The real problem is that wood shrinks faster tangentially than it does radially-the circumference tries to shrink faster than radius does. Something has to give and it splits radially. I can’t see how drilling out the pith would change that except maybe letting the wood dry from the inside out? Because it’s endgrain, I’m not sure a butterfly would help much strength wise, and could even cause more cracks if you fit it too tight and have to hammer it in. They do really look sharp though.
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Oct 10, 2018 21:41
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I’m looking for dog hole guidance. I’m sure it’s like most things that I’m overthinking it, but I’m rebuilding my table saw extension wing and wanted to add 3/4” dog holes to use with clamps, stops etc. What is the best way to make these? I originally thought a plunge router, but then I started seeing folks using metal drill guides with massive auger bits and others using a homemade drill guide out of wood. I do have a small drill press so I could make my own if that works, but I would still have to buy the auger bit. I also have a plunge router I could use or forstner bits with some sort of guide.
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Oct 10, 2018 21:59
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Falco posted:I’m looking for dog hole guidance. I’m sure it’s like most things that I’m overthinking it, but I’m rebuilding my table saw extension wing and wanted to add 3/4” dog holes to use with clamps, stops etc. What is the best way to make these? I originally thought a plunge router, but then I started seeing folks using metal drill guides with massive auger bits and others using a homemade drill guide out of wood. I do have a small drill press so I could make my own if that works, but I would still have to buy the auger bit. I also have a plunge router I could use or forstner bits with some sort of guide. I think you're overthinking it. I have 1" dog holes in my bench for holdfasts. I used a Wood Owl auger bit in a corded drill. For the first two or three holes I had my wife give me feedback with a combination square, but it quickly became routine.
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Oct 10, 2018 22:07
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You don’t need the precision of a drill press or specialty jig imo. I just used a brace with an auger bit, and stood my square up next to it while drilling. The same approach would work fine with a hand drill. I chamfered the inside of the holes by hand with a chisel but as you’d expect that didn’t look great. Once I bought a router I came back with a roundover bit and made all the holes look nice. They worked fine either way. Have you planned out placement for the holes? I started fairly conservative and drilled more as I needed them.
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Oct 10, 2018 22:09
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Every 3/4 hole I've had to make for dogs or holdfasts, I've marked my center, drilled a pilot, then used a just normal 3/4 speedbor bit. https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Woodboring-Drill-Bit/1000235545 The big spur in the middle will help you keep your bit from walking, and I've never had any issues.
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Oct 10, 2018 22:11
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I just did the dog holes in a 4.5 inch maple benchtop. Just took a piece of scrap wood about 2 inches thick and bored a hole with the drill press, used it as a guide for starting each dog hole, worked fine.
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Oct 10, 2018 22:39
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Lots of sawmills spray anchor seal by the drum on end grain, so I’m sure it does what it’s supposed to. Might be worth checking with them about finishing since a cookie will probably soak it in a lot deeper than a board or log. Thanks, I appreciate the guidance. I ordered a gallon of Anchorseal because it's a little cheaper and I'm kind of tight on fun money right now. This whole thing is an experiment anyhow. WRT the butterfly, I'm mainly interested in doing it just for the exercise and I assume one of these things will split eventually. I think it would look neat in a small round table.
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Oct 10, 2018 22:41
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I made a thing. It's not done yet, still need to make and hang the doors. I'm commissioning a friend to do the glass panels for the doors, and I'll hook up with a blacksmith I know about the door pulls. But today I'm going to drill some holes through the back and play some goddamn video games. 
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Oct 10, 2018 23:05
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ColdPie posted:I made a thing. It's not done yet, still need to make and hang the doors. I'm commissioning a friend to do the glass panels for the doors, and I'll hook up with a blacksmith I know about the door pulls. But today I'm going to drill some holes through the back and play some goddamn video games. This looks fantastic. That's an impressive amount of wood too.
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Oct 10, 2018 23:14
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ColdPie posted:I think you're overthinking it. I have 1" dog holes in my bench for holdfasts. I used a Wood Owl auger bit in a corded drill. For the first two or three holes I had my wife give me feedback with a combination square, but it quickly became routine. bobua posted:I just did the dog holes in a 4.5 inch maple benchtop. Just took a piece of scrap wood about 2 inches thick and bored a hole with the drill press, used it as a guide for starting each dog hole, worked fine. Huxley posted:Every 3/4 hole I've had to make for dogs or holdfasts, I've marked my center, drilled a pilot, then used a just normal 3/4 speedbor bit. Granite Octopus posted:You don’t need the precision of a drill press or specialty jig imo. I just used a brace with an auger bit, and stood my square up next to it while drilling. The same approach would work fine with a hand drill. Awesome thanks guys. I'll give it a go with what I've got first, and if needed I'll pick up an auger bit.
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Oct 10, 2018 23:40
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For hand drilling straight, I like a Big Gator V-Drill guide. Not expensive, small, easy to use, and helpful for finding the center drill spot on a pile or rounded tube. BIG GATOR TOOLS STD1000DGNP V-Drill Guide https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0061FY004/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ONOVBb3F25RZ1
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Oct 11, 2018 00:24
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So after sanding and varnishing this project had a hearty laugh at me. My queen sized box spring doesn't fit my new queen sized frame...  I don't have a third rail down the middle so buying a set of slats won't work I don't think. Is the simplest/cheapest option to buy 3 slats and power drill them in horizontally into the inside bottom of the side rails? What thickness do I need to get?
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Oct 11, 2018 03:00
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There's a lesson for you: don't trust the measurements in the plans. If you have something that needs to fit precisely between two things, or precisely around something, make it to fit what you already have, and drat the measurements. As for how to fix, I don't think I'd want to trust two peoples' body weight to three slats. My intuition is that you'd want something like a 33% "fill" (e.g. 4"-wide slats spaced every 12") if using something like .75" pine boards for the slats. I'd also be a bit more comfortable if the ledges that the slats/box spring rest on were wider; it looks like there's only an inch or so currently? But yeah, otherwise just screw those suckers down. For my own projects, I'm making progress on some model dinosaurs:  18 pieces cut, 24 to go. Then I get to remove all the carpet tape and residual adhesive (you can see some on the larger "horseshoe" on the left), clean up any rough bits, and apply finish. I'm making two models by stack cutting because it's not appreciably more work. I started out using a spiral blade; it worked fine, but made a godawful lot of dust. Traditional blades are a lot cleaner and frankly easier to do smooth curves with since there's only one possible feed direction. I can still see potential uses for spiral blades when doing small or really wiggly work though, so I don't regret having bought them.
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Oct 11, 2018 03:35
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:There's a lesson for you: don't trust the measurements in the plans. If you have something that needs to fit precisely between two things, or precisely around something, make it to fit what you already have, and drat the measurements. Thanks for the suggestion. Those slats would work even without a third rail down the middle? And the ledge it's sitting on is 1.5 inches wide. And you're right about the measuring, once it happened I kept repeating measure twice cut once for the next hour or so
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Oct 11, 2018 03:54
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Spikes32 posted:Thanks for the suggestion. Those slats would work even without a third rail down the middle? And the ledge it's sitting on is 1.5 inches wide. And you're right about the measuring, once it happened I kept repeating measure twice cut once for the next hour or so TooMuchAbstraction posted:
Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 04:15 on Oct 11, 2018 |
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Oct 11, 2018 04:12
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You could do slats across and a sheet of plywood on top of that (3/16" should be fine) to help distribute the weight of the box spring/mattress/people. I wouldn't screw the slats in just rest them and the weight of everything will keep them in place. I had a single (twin?) bed growing up that was like that. My parents still use it and my brothers identical one for grand kids. Also, you sure your bed is a queen and not a full?
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Oct 11, 2018 04:19
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Lacquer thinner will clean the carpet tape off but somehow just transfer the stickiness to your fingers in the process. What’re you making them out of? Thin plywood or thick veneer or something? They look fun. What did you wind up with for a scroll saw? My Internet research suggests that acetone or just a heat gun and scraping should also work for the glue. The material is a sheet of 1/4" cherry-veneered MDF. $80 for a 4'x8' sheet, of which I'm using half for this project. As for the saw, I got the DeWalt DW788 (per your suggestion, I believe). I'm pretty happy with it so far. It's definitely miles better than the creaky old one my dad has. The real trick, now that I have a scrollsaw, will be avoiding adding ridiculous ornamentation to all of my other projects. 
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Oct 11, 2018 04:19
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JEEVES420 posted:You could do slats across and a sheet of plywood on top of that (3/16" should be fine) to help distribute the weight of the box spring/mattress/people. I wouldn't screw the slats in just rest them and the weight of everything will keep them in place. I had a single (twin?) bed growing up that was like that. My parents still use it and my brothers identical one for grand kids. Thanks I'll see what's at home depot and how everything will price out. And yeah I'm sure it's a queen, had a full before this one.
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Oct 11, 2018 04:51
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'm making two models by stack cutting because it's not appreciably more work I was wondering how your project is going the other day, glad to see its working out. Also little tricks like doubling your output without increasing the workload is really cool
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Oct 11, 2018 04:53
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Spikes32 posted:So after sanding and varnishing this project had a hearty laugh at me. You could likely get away with 3 notched T-slats that way dividing it up in quarter sections, but you're probably safer going every foot.
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Oct 11, 2018 06:54
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1st garbagewood project nearly complete,  I made the legs then when dry clamped the legs and top together and left them to dry. I came back and found my daughter sat reading on it, hence it's slightly canted to one side. No harm, it's just to raise some plant pots up, it's since had a coat of some outdoor fence product we had in the shed. It's about 30cm high and easily supports my weight, I may make another as a bench for the kids.
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Oct 11, 2018 09:56
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Anyone have strong opinions on Veritas vs. Lie-Nielsen for a 3/4"w shoulder plane? My prior shoulder plane experience has been limited to an ancient Stanley #92 that could be made to mostly do its job, but didn't do it very comfortably or particularly well. I know either is going to be a ton better than that. Leaning towards the Veritas because I don't really like A2 steel which is what the Lie-Nielsen comes with. Any experience with the Veritas PM-V11 steel? The internet says it's the best thing since sliced bread, but I tend to prefer ease of sharpening over edge life and mostly use oilstones for sharpening.
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Oct 12, 2018 01:30
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Finished bookcases. I was kinda happy to not have to put a finish on them but now I really want to just to see the finished product.   Bonus old fireplace project in the background, bought the hardware obviously.
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Oct 12, 2018 02:05
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Anyone have strong opinions on Veritas vs. Lie-Nielsen for a 3/4"w shoulder plane? My prior shoulder plane experience has been limited to an ancient Stanley #92 that could be made to mostly do its job, but didn't do it very comfortably or particularly well. I know either is going to be a ton better than that. Leaning towards the Veritas because I don't really like A2 steel which is what the Lie-Nielsen comes with. Any experience with the Veritas PM-V11 steel? The internet says it's the best thing since sliced bread, but I tend to prefer ease of sharpening over edge life and mostly use oilstones for sharpening. I have 2 PM-V11 irons and one O1 for my Veritas low angle planes and I much prefer sharpening the O1 by a good margin. That said, on something 3/4" wide just about anything should cut fast, particularly since it's premium quality and the back should be perfect, and PM-V11 will probably stay sharp in a shoulder plane for a comically long time. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 02:37 on Oct 12, 2018 |
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Oct 12, 2018 02:33
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Hypnolobster posted:I have 2 PM-V11 irons and one O1 for my Veritas low angle planes and I much prefer sharpening the O1 by a good margin. That said, on something 3/4" wide just about anything should cut fast, particularly since it's premium quality and the back should be perfect, and PM-V11 will probably stay sharp in a shoulder plane for a comically long time. I love all my PM-V11 tools, I have a couple planes, a chisel and a shoulder plane. I use diamond stone to sharpen and things seems to go pretty fast. I don't think I've sharpened my shoulder plane in over a year.
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Oct 12, 2018 02:48
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I have the Veritas low angle set all with O1. I have no complaints at all, they really hold their edge well. I use diamond stones to sharpen too. edit: heres my big saw. forgot to post it. Can anyone point me to a good online resource for Disston parts? I'd like to replace a few of the studs on another saw and possibly replace the handle. 
mds2 fucked around with this message at 14:38 on Oct 12, 2018 |
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Oct 12, 2018 13:20
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   Mic drop 
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Oct 13, 2018 03:38
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Nice work!
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Oct 13, 2018 04:07
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   What have I gotten myself into HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Oct 14, 2018 |
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Oct 14, 2018 00:44
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Protip: stick a lowercase 'L' at the end of an imgur image name (right before the '.') to make it not break the fuckin' forums. That sure is a lot of cookies. What're you planning to do with them?
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Oct 14, 2018 00:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Protip: stick a lowercase 'L' at the end of an imgur image name (right before the '.') to make it not break the fuckin' forums. poo poo, sorry, thanks. Tables, maybe? Seal the end grain and forget about them for now. I promised a couple to my dad. He's getting a lathe, so maybe I'll have him turn me some legs. HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 01:45 on Oct 14, 2018 |
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Oct 14, 2018 01:42
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