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cyxx posted:Are there any resources to see rough averages of wood prices? I'm from southern california so I have no idea what wood should be costing in this part of the world. I was a little antsy about buying wood because I had no idea if I was spending too much. It varies a lot by location, presumably because transporting wood is expensive. Most of us I think just find a local lumberyard that has a decent selection and put up with what they charge, but probably if you're going through a lot of material (like, you're a pro cabinetmaker or something) then it pays to shop around. That said, I've never seen prices online that were remotely competitive with buying in-person. "Shopping around" would probably look like "go on a road trip to visit a bunch of lumberyards, figure out which one has what you want, then rent a U-Haul / ask them to send their delivery truck out."
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Nov 29, 2018 02:37
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cyxx posted:Thanks for the replies guys, I really appreciate it! I called the store and they confirmed that the prices were in bf (even though the tag at the bottom had a big L after the price so I thought it meant lineal feet). I'll go there this weekend and check out the boards and will decide which works the best. I do have a router and planer (I am one of those guys that buys poo poo that is currently way out of my skill and knowledge level because it's on sale), so I have more options that I thought. As a ballpark, for me on the Gulf Coast, buying wholesale (I'd expect retail to be 50+% higher?) and rough FAS 4/4 stuff I'm paying in the neighborhood of: Ash:$2-3/bf Cherry:$3.50-4.50/bf Cypress:$2-3 Soft maple (sometimes you can find curly in the paint grade pile!):$2-$3/bf Hard maple:$3.50-4.50/bf African mahogany/Sapele/Spanish Cedar:$4-5/bf Genuine Mahogany:$10-12/bf Red Oak:$2-3/bf White Oak:$4-5/bf Poplar-$1.5--2/bf C/Btr (Clear) SYP: $2/bf Walnut:$6-7/bf Edit: TooMuchAbstraction posted:It varies a lot by location, presumably because transporting wood is expensive. Most of us I think just find a local lumberyard that has a decent selection and put up with what they charge, but probably if you're going through a lot of material (like, you're a pro cabinetmaker or something) then it pays to shop around. That said, I've never seen prices online that were remotely competitive with buying in-person. "Shopping around" would probably look like "go on a road trip to visit a bunch of lumberyards, figure out which one has what you want, then rent a U-Haul / ask them to send their delivery truck out." Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 03:09 on Nov 29, 2018 |
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Nov 29, 2018 03:03
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There's two decent lumber yards in the Twin Cities, one more consumer- and one more business-oriented. Maybe it's because I'm in Minnesota and everyone here is Nice, but I've never had an unpleasant interaction with a lumber yard employee. Usually they're busy with their own things, so they answer my question or pull a stack off the wall for me and go back to their own thing. I've even spent literal hours sorting through some stacks, never heard a peep. Of course I always restack things when I'm done. Red oak's probably the cheapest hardwood. $100 for enough lumber for a table sounds like a good deal to me, even for red oak. My cabinet project came in well over $500 in white oak. I check the price list on the wall when I visit, just to choose primary and secondary materials from what they have available.
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Nov 29, 2018 03:23
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You guys are making me feel lucky I live in Dallas. I usually call 4-5 lumber yards to get pricing and go to best one. They are all in the same general area so drive time is all the same. There is also Rockler, Woodcraft, and Woodworld within 15 miles of me but I only hit them up for tools and turning kits as their wood prices suck for the most part. Price wise is about the same as you Kaiser but we have a ton of hickory/mesquite for cheap as hell (free all over craigslist).
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Nov 29, 2018 04:18
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On a different note, I live on a 5000-sqft lot with no trees (not since I hired someone to take down the cedars that were toppling one fence), and I'm scared of felling trees. And I still want the bandsaw mill in this video.
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Nov 29, 2018 05:05
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I’ve never actually worked with hickory-do you like it? There’s a mill here that cuts and sells it and a bunch of low grade swamp hardwoods for really cheap, but I’ve never bought any. I’ve thought about it for drawer sides/runners, but not sure it’s stable enough. I spent a few weeks working on a big pecan cabinet and that was the most awful, stringy, fuzzy (yet somehow still unpleasantly hard?) warpy wood I’ve every dealt with and it turned me off of hickory/pecan. I don’t think it was dried very well, but but it didn’t really look like much in any case-sort of like coarse grained streaky ash or something. I’ve had hickory axe handles and stuff turn a really nice pleasant amber/brown like chestnut and could see it really being pretty in the right use.
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Nov 29, 2018 05:13
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So right now I think I’m asking for the Kreg Benchtop router table seen here: https://www.kregtool.com/store/c35/router-table-systems/p141/precision-benchtop-router-table/ I need to figure out if anyone knows (or can tell me how I would determine) if my router would work. It’s this Ridgid: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ridgid-11-Amp-2-HP-1-2-in-Corded-Fixed-Base-Router-R22002/202739521
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Nov 29, 2018 07:14
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Lowes has a good deal on a 30 piece router but set https://m.lowes.com/pd/SKIL-30-Piece-Router-Bit-Set/1059237
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Nov 29, 2018 16:44
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coathat posted:Lowes has a good deal on a 30 piece router but set Are those bits decent? I need to get a router soon and bits as well.
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Nov 29, 2018 17:14
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They're not gonna be great bits, but they should be adequate. A set like that is a good place to start, considering that good bits cost $50+ apiece and you won't know which ones you actually want in high quality until you've worked with a router for awhile.
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Nov 29, 2018 17:19
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It's like a requirement that you have the generic router bit set, because everyone does. It's stuff to start with and then later on they will get you out of a pinch. Get a kit (pretty much any kit) and then buy good quality bits one at a time as you find out what you use often.
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Nov 29, 2018 17:24
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Hypnolobster posted:It's like a requirement that you have the generic router bit set, because everyone does. It's stuff to start with and then later on they will get you out of a pinch. Get a kit (pretty much any kit) and then buy good quality bits one at a time as you find out what you use often. This is true. Or you can be an idiot like me and just go buy a Diablo bit (or Rockler when Diablo doesn't have what you need) for 30-50 dollars a bit. It's not the best way to go for a beginner, but I keep telling myself at least I'm getting quality.... 
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Nov 29, 2018 17:32
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JEEVES420 posted:You guys are making me feel lucky I live in Dallas. I usually call 4-5 lumber yards to get pricing and go to best one. They are all in the same general area so drive time is all the same. There is also Rockler, Woodcraft, and Woodworld within 15 miles of me but I only hit them up for tools and turning kits as their wood prices suck for the most part. Price wise is about the same as you Kaiser but we have a ton of hickory/mesquite for cheap as hell (free all over craigslist). That's nuts that mesquite is so cheap there. It's pretty hard to get anything worthwhile out of a typical tree though, right? A rich rear end in a top hat around here ordered a bunch of mesquite flooring for a room in his hacienda and it was around  a foot 15 years ago. I think he had it milled in N.M.
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Nov 29, 2018 18:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:On a different note, I live on a 5000-sqft lot with no trees (not since I hired someone to take down the cedars that were toppling one fence), and I'm scared of felling trees. And I still want the bandsaw mill in this video. LOL. I actually unboxed and assembled that very same saw for my neighbour down the lake. I sharpen her blades, and she brings me free walnut logs. It's a pretty sweet deal.
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Nov 29, 2018 18:28
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:On a different note, I live on a 5000-sqft lot with no trees (not since I hired someone to take down the cedars that were toppling one fence), and I'm scared of felling trees. And I still want the bandsaw mill in this video. Feenix posted:So right now I think I’m asking for the Kreg Benchtop router table seen here:
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Nov 29, 2018 19:03
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cyxx posted:Thanks for the replies guys, I really appreciate it! I called the store and they confirmed that the prices were in bf (even though the tag at the bottom had a big L after the price so I thought it meant lineal feet). I'll go there this weekend and check out the boards and will decide which works the best. I do have a router and planer (I am one of those guys that buys poo poo that is currently way out of my skill and knowledge level because it's on sale), so I have more options that I thought. Did you see the Nick Offerman woodworking book, Good Clean Fun? His shop is in southern california, and IIRC he had some stuff to say about sourcing wood. One thing to consider is trying to find reclaimed/recycled/sustainable wood, which is more of a possibility here in california than in a lot of other places.
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Nov 29, 2018 19:03
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
I called. It comes with a blank phenolic(sp?) plate I can drill. As long as your router disc is 4+" you should be good. [edit] Is that Nick Offerman book good? I can ask for it for Xmas.
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Nov 29, 2018 19:31
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:The parts they don’t ever show you are the part when you stack the (heavy green) boards about 4 times, the part where you get powder post beetles in all of it, and the part where it warps really badly in drying (especially sweetgum). Yeah, that's fair. And I'm a very slow carpenter, so arguably I don't need large quantities of wet lumber anyway. But I like the idea of making my own pieces from a tree I cut down myself. It's like the people that buy gigantic pickup trucks to drive to their office jobs, except less environmentally unfriendly.
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Nov 29, 2018 19:35
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Feenix posted:I called. It comes with a blank phenolic(sp?) plate I can drill. As long as your router disc is 4+" you should be good. Do you like Nick Offerman? It's a fair amount of him being amusing, a dozen or so woodworking projects for the beginner to middling woodworker, and some random stuff. As an Offerman fan I liked it, but I would not view it as the one or best intro book for someone looking to get into woodworking.
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Nov 29, 2018 19:42
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Leperflesh posted:Do you like Nick Offerman? It's a fair amount of him being amusing, a dozen or so woodworking projects for the beginner to middling woodworker, and some random stuff. As an Offerman fan I liked it, but I would not view it as the one or best intro book for someone looking to get into woodworking. No no. Entertainment with a side of possible inspiration. I’ve got a bit of a recent man crush on Nick. Figured this would be a good stocking stuffer.
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Nov 29, 2018 19:48
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Yeah in that case you'll definitely like it! It will not fit in a stocking, though.
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Nov 29, 2018 19:55
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Leperflesh posted:Yeah in that case you'll definitely like it! It will not fit in a stocking, though. You clearly have not seen my Nick Offerman-esque MAN-STOCKING. (jk)
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Nov 29, 2018 20:20
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:They're not gonna be great bits, but they should be adequate. A set like that is a good place to start, considering that good bits cost $50+ apiece and you won't know which ones you actually want in high quality until you've worked with a router for awhile. I like to buy those kits for a "core" set and then spend a little extra on the specialty bits as I need them. If I need to replace one of the core bits I just buy another cheapo bit. Mr. Mambold posted:That's nuts that mesquite is so cheap there. It's pretty hard to get anything worthwhile out of a typical tree though, right? A rich rear end in a top hat around here ordered a bunch of mesquite flooring for a room in his hacienda and it was around poo poo is everywhere in Texas. Majority of it is chopped up and sold for barbecue wood. If you want anything in length you need to find it before it is felled/chopped up and offer to haul it off for free. People generally chop down as much as they can on their property as its an rear end in a top hat tree with long as spikes sticking out all over it.
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Nov 29, 2018 20:26
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I carved myself a sign out of cherry. What would be a good thing to rub on it? It's going to live inside and won't be in the line of fire, so it doesn't need to be durable.
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Nov 29, 2018 20:50
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JEEVES420 posted:
That was the impression I had. I knew it was good for smoking and barbeque, but that flooring of his was really richly figured, even the voids in it had character.
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Nov 30, 2018 04:14
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dupersaurus posted:I carved myself a sign out of cherry. What would be a good thing to rub on it? It's going to live inside and won't be in the line of fire, so it doesn't need to be durable.
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Nov 30, 2018 04:16
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Is BLO good for garden furniture?
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Nov 30, 2018 07:22
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Hypnolobster posted:It's like a requirement that you have the generic router bit set, because everyone does. It's stuff to start with and then later on they will get you out of a pinch. Get a kit (pretty much any kit) and then buy good quality bits one at a time as you find out what you use often. And if you're like me, that never happens because it hurts too much to pay that much for such a small thing. So you just hardly ever use the router.
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Nov 30, 2018 09:52
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think cherry is my favorite wood for an oiled finish and oil is my favorite finish for cherry. A few coats of plain boiled linseed oil is all it needs. Really? I think Cherry takes linseed oil terribly... not that it's blotchy, just that it doesn't do anything for it. At least linseed which is my go to. Mineral oil sure, but linseed hardly does anything to Cherry. Now Utile/Sipo Mahogany completely changes with linseed. From meh, to rich redish brown.
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Nov 30, 2018 14:40
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The only thing that does anything to cherry is time and UV. It's pretty much hideous until the salmon color goes away, and then it's gorgeous.His Divine Shadow posted:And if you're like me, that never happens because it hurts too much to pay that much for such a small thing. So you just hardly ever use the router.
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Nov 30, 2018 15:55
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cakesmith handyman posted:Is BLO good for garden furniture? No.
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Nov 30, 2018 16:47
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Hypnolobster posted:The only thing that does anything to cherry is time and UV. It's pretty much hideous until the salmon color goes away, and then it's gorgeous. I just found out there’s a store near me that carries the full line of Whiteside router bits. It’s been bad for the bank account and good for the wood. I got a 2” spiral carbine pattern bit and it’s changed my life (for only $104!) xwing posted:Really? I think Cherry takes linseed oil terribly... not that it's blotchy, just that it doesn't do anything for it. At least linseed which is my go to. Mineral oil sure, but linseed hardly does anything to Cherry.
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Nov 30, 2018 17:00
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Can someone point me to a good way to clear fill cracks in some maple? I'm turning some off cuts of this tree that I'm cutting up into little things and have some checks to contend with. They look cool, and they're just decorative pieces, so I just want to fill them before I finish them. Here's the puzzle I get to put together now for an end grain cutting board. I'll may use some walnut for an edge, but I might use some more maple and use the walnut for another cutting/serving board. 
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Nov 30, 2018 19:04
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Resin/epoxy?
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Nov 30, 2018 19:06
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Phone posted:Resin/epoxy? Can you be more specific? I'm having a hard time sorting through the options.
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Nov 30, 2018 19:07
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Jhet posted:Can someone point me to a good way to clear fill cracks in some maple? I'm turning some off cuts of this tree that I'm cutting up into little things and have some checks to contend with. They look cool, and they're just decorative pieces, so I just want to fill them before I finish them. Is this a dry-fit or is that glued up already? The gaps in that photo are gonna be hard to fill in cleanly, so if that's post-gluing, I think your main lesson here should be to get some cauls and more clamps so that next time you get a better glue-up. Usually for filling gaps, I recommend mixing fine sawdust with some wood glue to make a paste. Just puddle some wood glue on a scrap or some paper, and mix in fine sawdust until it gets pasty. Then fill it into the gaps with a toothpick, and wipe clean the surface with a damp cloth or paper towel. It blends in well, assuming you use the same kind of wood for the sawdust as the wood the piece is made from. It also takes a finish well.
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Nov 30, 2018 19:26
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Jhet posted:Can you be more specific? I'm having a hard time sorting through the options. is this for turning on a lathe or filling to make gaps disappear? Does it need to be food safe like for a cutting board? Do you want it clear or to take a finish? I do a good bit of work with resins but want to figure out what exactly your wanting in the end instead of just posting a wall of text about the different types, processes, finishes, etc. Shamelessly posting a bowl I turned with resin filled fractal burns. 
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Nov 30, 2018 19:38
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Is this a dry-fit or is that glued up already? The gaps in that photo are gonna be hard to fill in cleanly, so if that's post-gluing, I think your main lesson here should be to get some cauls and more clamps so that next time you get a better glue-up. The way I read it was its dry fit and its green wood so they are trying to fill the cracks from the checking
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Nov 30, 2018 19:41
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Jhet posted:Can someone point me to a good way to clear fill cracks in some maple? I'm turning some off cuts of this tree that I'm cutting up into little things and have some checks to contend with. They look cool, and they're just decorative pieces, so I just want to fill them before I finish them.
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Nov 30, 2018 20:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Is this a dry-fit or is that glued up already? The gaps in that photo are gonna be hard to fill in cleanly, so if that's post-gluing, I think your main lesson here should be to get some cauls and more clamps so that next time you get a better glue-up. For the wood glue and saw dust trick-- do you use a white glue, yellow glue?
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Nov 30, 2018 20:43
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