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Then what do people recommend?
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Nov 30, 2018 20:50
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MetaJew posted:For the wood glue and saw dust trick-- do you use a white glue, yellow glue? Yellow glue is good filler, if you mean white elmers it isn't strong. Titebond is good though. Also depends on if you need water resistance or not
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Nov 30, 2018 20:58
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JEEVES420 posted:is this for turning on a lathe or filling to make gaps disappear? Does it need to be food safe like for a cutting board? Do you want it clear or to take a finish? I just want something that I can put in clear to keep the wood from splitting entirely if someone were to bump it or something. I'll probably do the finish with oil, and it doesn't need to be food safe. Do you have any suggestions for a resin that might look good or at least a place to start? I've not looked at those before. I may end up going with the super glue like Kaiser suggested too. Everytime I use an epoxy for it, it never turns out very nice and it just ends up cloudy even if I polish the ever living everything out of it like I see people do in youtube videos. The bonus pic is of a cutting board that I haven't done anything but cut pieces. They don't fit well together, so I have to find the best configuration and get the fit nice and tight before I even think about glue for that. The little stocking stuffer projects are from excess pieces from making the cuts for that board. I don't have any checking in the pieces for the cutting board, it's in the offcuts from it though. It is dry, and I didn't have a chance to coat the ends as this was stored in my parent's garage 4 hours away.
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Nov 30, 2018 21:12
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MetaJew posted:For the wood glue and saw dust trick-- do you use a white glue, yellow glue? I use Titebond III for almost everything wood-related I do. I'll use superglue for when I need something that will wick into cracks, and I'll use epoxy for situations where the glue-up is awkward and I don't need a ton of strength (mostly this is for puzzle cubes and other toys). But yeah, for the wood paste, I use Titebond. If I recall correctly, Titebond III has a longer working time before it sets up compared to Titebond I, plus it's more resistant to moisture. I don't really see a compelling reason to use Titebond I or II.
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Nov 30, 2018 21:22
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Sorry, I wasn't specific enough. I think I've only ever used Titebond I or maybe II. I know that III is meant for applications that might get wet, like a cutting board-- and that they have longer setup times. What I meant to ask was do you mix your saw dust with something like Titebond I-III or a white colored wood glue, of some sort.
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Nov 30, 2018 21:39
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MetaJew posted:Sorry, I wasn't specific enough. I think I've only ever used Titebond I or maybe II. I know that III is meant for applications that might get wet, like a cutting board-- and that they have longer setup times. TooMuchAbstraction posted:But yeah, for the wood paste, I use Titebond.
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Nov 30, 2018 22:01
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cakesmith handyman posted:Then what do people recommend? Using lumber that weathers well. I'm pretty sure most of the finishes that are indoor suitable have something like 0% moisture protection, and idk how non-permeable you'd want the finish to be anyway. High grade paint will offer protection. There's also some epoxies or spar urethane that I think do also.
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Nov 30, 2018 22:18
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Deck stain/paint.
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Nov 30, 2018 22:22
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I've seen a lot of youtube woodworkers use a wood finish product called Monocoat. It seems pretty interesting/forgiving. This guy, for example mixes the two components, pours it all over the surface, and then seems to spread it around with a squeegee like you might use for apply bondo. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i08mUaaucdU&t=587s Have any of y'all used it before? I'm getting closer to the point of using my slabs to make a dining table, and this finish seems like a neat idea.
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Nov 30, 2018 23:01
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Jhet posted:I just want something that I can put in clear to keep the wood from splitting entirely if someone were to bump it or something. I'll probably do the finish with oil, and it doesn't need to be food safe. Do you have any suggestions for a resin that might look good or at least a place to start? I've not looked at those before. I may end up going with the super glue like Kaiser suggested too. Everytime I use an epoxy for it, it never turns out very nice and it just ends up cloudy even if I polish the ever living everything out of it like I see people do in youtube videos. Unless you are looking for a smooth surface, the thin CA glue will work better. If you want to fill the voids then use resin. Neither the resin or the CA glue will take a stain/oil so anywhere you put it will be "bare" looking compared to the rest of the piece I am partial to Alumilite resins. They make several versions for clear coats to clear casting... it is expensive though. You are getting a cloudy look due to air bubbles in the epoxy. Epoxy is very thick and will hold on to micro bubbles as you mix the two parts. When you see people use a resin epoxy (not a glue epoxy) and hit it with a torch the heat brings the bubbles to the surface and pops them. Ideally with resin you want to either vacuum or compress the bubbles out while it is setting. If it is on a large piece you cant fit in a chamber then using an RO sander with no paper near the resin (ie on the wood or table) will help agitate the bubbles to the surface to then use the torch. There are also wood stabilizers that can help but I have not tried it on green wood. I have only used it to surface strengthen boards before a fill or with a vacuum chamber to prevent blowouts on the lathe.
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Dec 1, 2018 00:26
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cakesmith handyman posted:Then what do people recommend? TooMuchAbstraction posted:If I recall correctly, Titebond III has a longer working time before it sets up compared to Titebond I, plus it's more resistant to moisture. I don't really see a compelling reason to use Titebond I or II.
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Dec 1, 2018 01:05
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I actually called the manufacturer once about the differences between the three, and learned a few things. For one, TB3 makes a much darker glue line which can really show up on birch/maple. It's also a much more elastic glue than TB2 (part of why it is stronger than TB2), but that also makes it much more prone to creep-a problem PVA glues all have, but which apparently TB3 has worse than the other two. TB3 also doesn't hold up very well at higher (120F+) temperatures, which a west facing door can definitely reach in summer, and can fail or really creep when it gets that hot. TB2 is also more viscous and spreads a easier than the thicker TB3. All three are about 1.5x as strong as the wood itself, and are plenty strong given a good glue joint. For joinery, I mostly use TB2 because it is cheaper and urea-formaldehyde for glue ups because it doesn't creep and dries hard and doesn't clog sanding belts like PVA glue. When I first got into woodworking, most of my projects were cutting boards or other kitchen-adjacent things, so I just got the most water-tolerant of the Titebonds and stuck with it, but I guess it can't hurt to experiment with other options.
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Dec 1, 2018 01:57
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I did a shou-sugi-baby-sequel (ahaha autocorrect! I’m leaving it! Shoulda been ...ban-esque ,) burn on a little tray I’m making. I’ve bristle brushed out the loose carbon and sanded it to 220. It does not leave any coal or discoloration on my hands when I rub it I’m generally fond of mineral oil and wax for non-serious finishes. With that, do you think mineral oil rubbing is a good candidate for burned wood? Will it still absorb?
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Dec 1, 2018 05:17
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I thought the whole point of those was the burn was the finish? You can always burn a test piece and try a few different oils on it.
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Dec 1, 2018 05:36
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JEEVES420 posted:I thought the whole point of those was the burn was the finish? Yeah that’s why I referred to it as -esque. It’s not a super-deep burn.
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Dec 1, 2018 05:57
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Everything that I've read (read: schwarz) has said to put a coat of something on top and that shou sugi ban and BLO play nicely with southern yellow pine.
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Dec 1, 2018 08:23
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Thin viscosity superglue is great for checks. It wicks way down in the wood. If there are big voids, thicker superglue or epoxy. Neither are technically food safe, but I don’t think they’ll kill you either. Whenever someone asks if the tung oil or blo I use is food safe, I ask them how many cutting boards they eat per year?
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Dec 2, 2018 06:34
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I have some general rough lumber related questions. 1. What do I need to look for for insects that might hitchhike on rough lumber from a mill yard and how do I protect myself etc? 2. Any hints on general storage / handling for the stuff described below would be appreciated. I was checking craigslist for lumber / free wood etc as sometimes I'll find a nice nearby pickup of stuff to tinker with and a small sawmill had a big sale going as they were moving to a new site and wanted to sell off most of their yard stock as their lease was ending in a few weeks. They had a lot of weird stuff like sassafrass and sycamore and a bunch of standard stuff too. Walnut was going for like $5/bf and they had cherry and soft maple for $2/bf and weren't putting much of a premium on slabs either. The walnut was picked over pretty heavily by the time I got there, but I got this whole haul for around $400. Cherry is the single stack on the left, soft maple the 2 on the right.  The wood was cut about 1 yr ago and has just been stickered sitting outside the entire duration. I stickered it as above and it's in my garage which is attached to the house but not climate controlled. I live in Rhode Island so the humidity is dropping now as it's cold. I wanted to move some of the larger slabs inside into the basement so they could dry further, but I didn't want to track in any bugs and don't know enough about that to even know what to look for. There's no obvious wood boring holes or bug activity on the pieces, but I didn't give them a careful look either. The cherry slabs look nice, about 6'x 2' for each, just under 2" thick.  And I wasn't going to get any maple, but the soft maple was all indexed and had a really beautiful grain to it (imo). I snagged 3x 13"x2"x8' planks and a bunch of smaller stuff and a good bit of this will ultimately be a trestle table for the dining room in our new house.  So yeah, still new to woodworking and definitely super new to this side of it. Anything I should / should not do right now and anything I should look for specifically wrt insect issues? My current plan was to put the biggest stuff inside and leave it for >6 months and pull some of the smaller stuff in ~3 months before I want to start dimensioning it.
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Dec 2, 2018 15:50
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Wow, nice haul. Best thing to do would be get a moisture meter and start tracking it over time. Measure once a week and see if they stabilize. If they've been outside for a year, especially in a climate that gets dry over winter, I imagine they're pretty close to as dry as they're going to get. I think it's best to store them where you'll be working with them, so they don't shift as much after initial dimensioning.
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Dec 2, 2018 16:29
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That's some pretty wood and you can't beat the prices.Feenix posted:I did a shou-sugi-baby-sequel (ahaha autocorrect! I’m leaving it! Shoulda been ...ban-esque ,) burn on a little tray I’m making. I’ve bristle brushed out the loose carbon and sanded it to 220. It does not leave any coal or discoloration on my hands when I rub it I used Tung Oil on my shou sugi ban bench. It absorbed like oil does on everything else. I'd use anything that was just oil, and BLO or Mineral Oil should both work fine. I then used a wax to give it a light sheen on top. From what I've read (not Schwarz!) the oil is traditional and the wax is just what I've done.
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Dec 2, 2018 16:31
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ColdPie posted:Wow, nice haul. Best thing to do would be get a moisture meter and start tracking it over time. Measure once a week and see if they stabilize. If they've been outside for a year, especially in a climate that gets dry over winter, I imagine they're pretty close to as dry as they're going to get. I think it's best to store them where you'll be working with them, so they don't shift as much after initial dimensioning. Thanks! Any recs on a moisture meter?
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Dec 2, 2018 17:04
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That Works posted:I have some general rough lumber related questions. As far as bugs, there's not really a whole lot you can do. You can treat the surface with Tim-Bor to keep wood boring insects out, but there isn't a good chemical control for anything already inside the wood. You can kill them by heating the wood to an internal temp. of 130F for an hour, but that's not really practical for big boards and can cause all kinds of drying issues. Kiln dried lumber reaches this temperature in the kiln and so should be free of wood boring insects, but if this is air dried you really can't know. Presumably/hopefully, the mill treats their lumber with Tim-Bor or some other insecticide before they set it out to dry. You can probably call the mill and ask them if/how they treat and if they've had any problems. Otherwise, you'll find out in a few years if you start seeing little piles of sawdust coming out of pinholes in the wood. In my experience, powder post beetles really only go for sapwood-soft maple seems to be a favorite since it is all sap, but I've also seen them in red oak, ash, and mahogany heartwood.
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Dec 2, 2018 17:13
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I hope those sticker stains are just surface and didn't permeate through because that sucks. I've seen too many like that where the guy stickered with some non-neutral wood or w/e that bled into the new boards over time and it goes all the way to the bone.
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Dec 2, 2018 17:13
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Sassafras is actually some neat wood-kind of soft, but it smells really nice and is very rot/insect resistant. Very easy stuff to work. Quartersawn sycamore is also gorgeous, but it can be tricky to work because it has nasty interlocked grain. What you brought home looks great. Stickered inside the garage is good-you might want to bring individual pieces into your workshop a week or three before you intend to work on them. Thanks! I'll call them and ask. If it is contaminated is it risky to have it in my shop at all or my house? I don't want to end up with all my other wood and potentially the house itself becoming compromised. Not sure how nasty they get.
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Dec 2, 2018 18:01
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Mr. Mambold posted:I hope those sticker stains are just surface and didn't permeate through because that sucks. I've seen too many like that where the guy stickered with some non-neutral wood or w/e that bled into the new boards over time and it goes all the way to the bone. Yikes, what kind of wood does that?
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Dec 2, 2018 18:12
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That Works posted:Thanks! Any recs on a moisture meter? Not really. I think pinless is a big perk. I borrowed a pinned meter before I bought mine, and those pins leave a mark. I have a Lignomat SD, but if that's too pricey there are other options.
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Dec 2, 2018 18:32
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Yikes, what kind of wood does that? Not sure what causes it, but I'd guess something to do with extra sappy wood or maybe excess iron or other minerals. One would hope that stickering with the same type lumber as you're drying would be safe, but I don't know enough about it to opine on that either. Just know I've run into it a few times and it sucks to get a batch like that.
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Dec 2, 2018 18:34
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Mr. Mambold posted:Not sure what causes it, but I'd guess something to do with extra sappy wood or maybe excess iron or other minerals. One would hope that stickering with the same type lumber as you're drying would be safe, but I don't know enough about it to opine on that either. Just know I've run into it a few times and it sucks to get a batch like that. This is a good but fairly technical article about it by a guy who knows his stuff. http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/Causes_and_cures_for_sticker_stain.html That Works posted:Thanks! I'll call them and ask. If it is contaminated is it risky to have it in my shop at all or my house? I don't want to end up with all my other wood and potentially the house itself becoming compromised. Not sure how nasty they get.
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Dec 2, 2018 20:15
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Fortunately the sticker stain only seems to be on 2-3 pieces at all, and not on both sides. The stickers look like white oak mostly, with some red oak too. I'll have to wait until it goes through the planer and maybe put a bit of oil on the line between the stickered area vs clean and see if it shows up on some of the worst ones. Hopefully even if it is bad its just on a couple pieces and not on sides that matter much.
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Dec 2, 2018 21:33
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I set my pops on the hunt for wood tools in need of restoration because he likes to go to flea markets and I’ve been following hipster woodworkers on Instagram. He brought me these the other day.  The axe appears to be handed. It’s a Plumb. Any guesses on age?  There’s also another plane, but the mechanism in the frog is broken. I’ll be waiting to find a replacement, maybe for a long time, before I tackle it. Dad also gave me a bitchin Bosch variable speed angle grinder with a shock absorbing handle and a bunch of discs. One of them has a chainsaw chain around the circumference and it’s terrifying. There were a bunch of flapper discs which will make my handle making projects move a lot faster.
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Dec 3, 2018 01:31
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I’m pretty new to woodworking (so far I have made a sloppy picnic table and a sloppy workbench) but I’d like to get better. I found this ”Idea Shop 6 guide” from Wood magazine I’m going to follow. Not so much the budgeting as I already have some of the stuff they recommend, but I like the idea of learning as you go by building functional items for the shop. Actually I just bought all of the stuff in this pic except the saw. I bought it used last year for $25 from a guy on Nextdoor who used it to build a deck and then wanted to get rid of it. I had never changed the blade and it was difficult, the lock button was jammed until I oiled it up a bit. First builds are a couple of cutting guides, hopefully this week. It will be nice to cut straight for once. You can kind of see on my bench where I cut right into the side accidentally. If anyone has any advice or things I should watch out for let me know. 
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Dec 3, 2018 06:16
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I would say that that Diablo is a good blade, but with only 24 teeth it is indeed for "framing" and not any kind of fine woodwork. You'll probably get splinters and tear-out galore. Maybe budget for a much higher tooth count blade, when you can afford it.
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Dec 3, 2018 06:54
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Leperflesh posted:I would say that that Diablo is a good blade, but with only 24 teeth it is indeed for "framing" and not any kind of fine woodwork. You'll probably get splinters and tear-out galore. Maybe budget for a much higher tooth count blade, when you can afford it. The new one in the saw is 40, should I go higher?
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Dec 3, 2018 06:59
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So in case anyone was wondering, building a workbench with nothing but hand tools when you barely know what you're doing is kind of difficult! I've been (very) slowly working away at a Knockdown Nicholson. It is way harder than I even expected to get flush surfaces and clean cuts with hand tools. The shelves of my leg assemblies are hilariously not straight, so I'll probably have to take a chisel to some parts to try to flatten things out. Also, surfacing/smoothing and joining six-foot lumber takes a lot of time. That said, I think I'm getting better at it, and also have been able to use a Tormek grinder for sharpening. It won't get things super scary sharp, but it works well enough for now. So far I have the bench top glued up and three legs done and am working on the fourth. Next I'll get to the aprons. My Lowe's didn't have 2x12s in anything under 10 feet, which won't fit in my car, so I'm going to have to glue up 2x6s. But, my dad gave me a biscuit joiner he doesn't use anymore, so I guess it's a chance to try that out.
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Dec 3, 2018 15:30
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z0331 posted:So in case anyone was wondering, building a workbench with nothing but hand tools when you barely know what you're doing is kind of difficult!  I did the same thing with the KD Nicholson as well. The bench ended up coming out good. Now a year later and a few more projects under my belt I'm starting to realize how crap a lot of that work was. No matter though, the bench performs just great and works as intended. At worst I might make a new top for it later on or something.
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Dec 3, 2018 16:07
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My continuing adventures is carving is taking me down a path requiring some mild jointing so I'm looking at baby's first plane. What's a good size to get if I'll be working with boards around one or two feet long, .5-.75" thick?quote:
Thanks for the chat, I'm going to leave it in a window for a while and see what happens.
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Dec 3, 2018 16:11
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about cherry
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That Works posted:
I'm actually fairly proud of how smooth my bench top mostly came out. I've been doing the rest of my work on it across a couple saw horses. One end has a slight disparity between the boards and it was difficult getting a plane to hit it. I have to figure out a way to get at it or maybe just cut it off.
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Dec 3, 2018 16:22
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z0331 posted:
I started much the same. Yeah it takes some time but its well worth it in the end. And it’s a bench, it doesn’t need to be perfect. Why don’t you just get them to cut it down for you? That would be way easier than laminating two pieces. If they won’t do it just bring a handsaw and do it in the parking lot.
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Dec 4, 2018 03:10
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Granite Octopus posted:I started much the same. Yeah it takes some time but its well worth it in the end. And it’s a bench, it doesn’t need to be perfect. I could have...but then I don't get to try the biscuit joiner.
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Dec 4, 2018 14:53
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z0331 posted:I could have...but then I don't get to try the biscuit joiner. You totally don't need to use a biscuit joiner on that unless you are just looking for an excuse to use one.
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Dec 4, 2018 18:39
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