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chiasaur11 posted:Even though I can see the logic (reused molds save money), it still feels weird that Build Divers and Narrative are getting MGs before IBO or G-Reco, and that side suits are getting MGs instead of the leads. Yeah, it never made sense to me that Barbatos of all things didn’t get an MG or and RG.
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Nov 28, 2018 14:16
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RillAkBea posted:Cat Weapons was apparently super popular, it's even getting a manga. I won't lie. I'm hyped.
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Nov 28, 2018 14:46
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double post :V
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Nov 28, 2018 14:46
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If the Build Divers guys had decent writers at all (or hell, just attempted to engage with Gunpla in any way shape or form), they'd have put the Cat Weapons in as a custom somewhere.
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Nov 28, 2018 15:12
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RillAkBea posted:MG AGE II Magnum Hope they fix the horrible knees on this kit (they won't) Speaking of transforming kits there's nothing like the sheer terror of attempting not to scratch the paint when putting together a completed transformable kit. I think you're a great design, mg delta plus, but gently caress your transformation.
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Nov 28, 2018 16:20
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Monaghan posted:Hope they fix the horrible knees on this kit (they won't) You've clearly never tried to transform the Zeta Plus.
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Nov 28, 2018 16:54
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Xaerael posted:You've clearly never tried to transform the Zeta Plus. I actually have that kit! it's more in general I hate transformable kits due to the high probability of paint scratching.
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Nov 28, 2018 17:21
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Null of Undefined posted:I've been building models for ages and I still can't remove nub marks with an Xacto knife without accidentally cutting too deep and making the surface uneven. How do y'all do it? I've finally found a good system with nipper with 1-2mm of plastic --> sand it down (i use metal sanders and go slow with repetitive motions) ---> xacto blade z-series (after using these I dont think i can go back to common blades) I used to just go nipper-->blade but the plastic seems to generally be a little too strong for it without leaving a flash mark, the newer the kit the less an issue this becomes though also putting the thinnest layer of tamiya cement on the nub/flash marks actually goes a long way to hiding the blemish, provided you didnt eat too far into the plastic
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Nov 29, 2018 20:31
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I'll share a secret re: getting rid of nubs... gentle needle file to remove most of it, then use the 4 sided nail buffing blocks you can find anywhere cosmetics are sold, and you can make the nub totally vanish, and get back to the original sheen on the plastic. Obvs, don't do this on clear.
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Nov 29, 2018 20:36
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Xaerael posted:I'll share a secret re: getting rid of nubs... Got a brand or Amazon link for the fashion impaired?
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Nov 29, 2018 20:54
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Sazabi posted:Got a brand or Amazon link for the fashion impaired? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10x-Prof...bHz5i:rk:3:pf:0 e: It has to be the 4 step ones, Beware of buying mono-grit ones.
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Nov 29, 2018 21:19
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oh yeah those things are handy one stop shops. I played with my wife's to figure out the grit. If you're interested, it's just 80,100, & 240 grit for the cutting side and 500-1000 for the buffing / polishing side. You can get a set of sheets all the way down to like 5000 at the auto shop for less than $5. The problem with all those buffing pads at that grit is that keratin won't clog the sheet, but ABS will (Although that doesn't mean they come clean, the FDA recommends not sharing emery or buffing pads, there is no way to sterilize them safely). I've also had more problems with the adhesive compared to the tamiya or auto shop brands, but none of them are fantastic.
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Nov 29, 2018 21:31
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I'm still pretty new to gunpla, so I don't know if this is another kind of stress mark, but sometimes I'm left with darker patches where nubs used to be after I'm done cutting/shaving/sanding/buffing. Any suggestions for avoiding this?
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Nov 29, 2018 21:33
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Napoleon Nelson posted:I'm still pretty new to gunpla, so I don't know if this is another kind of stress mark, but sometimes I'm left with darker patches where nubs used to be after I'm done cutting/shaving/sanding/buffing. Any suggestions for avoiding this? That will be basically go away after a matte topcoat. You'll only be able to see it if you knew where it was and get it under light. Even if you do perfect progressive wet sanding from 400 up to 2000 grit, you'll still see that. it's where the runner was once melted into the part and something something chemical stuff.
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Nov 29, 2018 22:08
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I've seen it too, I think it has to do with pigments and the cooling process of the plastic. Dunno if that's why, tho
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Nov 29, 2018 22:14
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It's called flashing. It's prevalent in all models kits pretty much. You'll see it more in darker colours as they show imperfections more than lighter colours.
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Nov 29, 2018 22:21
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It's actually material flow lines where the material at the narrower gate enters the more open part. It's difficult to avoid in certain colors especially with smooth surfaces. Flash is where thin material gets between the tool halves where it shouldn't be and leaves some extra on the parts after ejection.
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Nov 29, 2018 22:47
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Apprentice Dick posted:It's actually material flow lines where the material at the narrower gate enters the more open part. It's difficult to avoid in certain colors especially with smooth surfaces. Ahh I see! I always attributed flashing to the material flow as it looked like flashes of light nigh through the piece. It's been a productive couple of weeks and got through a few sets of my backlog. I'll have some pictures up but have done, HG Stein Narrative ver. HG Barbatos Iron Blooded coating. MG clear Gundam Base rx-78 3.0 MG F91 2.0 Almost finished RG Tallgeese. Rx-78 3.0 frame is really good, it's detailed enough but slightly different to. 2.0 frame think I prefer it. Stein Narrative is almost RG in quality. Doesn't have the joint mobility but the separation and detail is crazy good. Really fun build. RG Tallgeese is amazing. For an RG it has a pretty low runner count, another really fun kit. Im waiting on photoetch parts for the RG Sazabi to arrive and then I'll probably start that. It's box is as big as a MG box.
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Nov 29, 2018 23:07
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Puddin posted:Rx-78 3.0 frame is really good, it's detailed enough but slightly different to. 2.0 frame think I prefer it. I have to say I reeeally hate the 3.0 frame. The ankles can't do any sort of dynamic angle. The shoulder joints on the torso are weak and pop out of the polycap too easily. Between these and a few other things I much prefer the more solid 2.0 frame and apparently the techs at Bandai do too as it's the 2.0 they're still using now.
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Nov 30, 2018 02:49
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RillAkBea posted:I have to say I reeeally hate the 3.0 frame. The ankles can't do any sort of dynamic angle. The shoulder joints on the torso are weak and pop out of the polycap too easily. Between these and a few other things I much prefer the more solid 2.0 frame and apparently the techs at Bandai do too as it's the 2.0 they're still using now. This makes me feel a little better about the 2.0 I never got around to building before the 3.0 came out
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Nov 30, 2018 17:09
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I really don't like how the 2.0 gundam looks but its frame is god drat incredible so I'm more than happy if they keep reusing it
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Nov 30, 2018 17:32
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I made a robot https://imgur.com/a/d0Ni21V
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Dec 1, 2018 17:44
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That’s a badass robot
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Dec 1, 2018 17:48
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Droyer posted:I made a robot Why the cloak?
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Dec 1, 2018 22:08
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Nebakenezzer posted:Why the cloak? Apparently it has some kind of beam diffusing property, but the actual reason is to give it a Lawrence of Arabia vibe, cause the pilot has that kinda thing going on.
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Dec 1, 2018 23:34
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My friend is in the JET programme right now and he sent me snapchats of him looking at the MG Banshee Norn and the Sazabi Ver Ka. He's so close.
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Dec 2, 2018 02:45
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 That silhouette looks familiar...  http://gundamguy.blogspot.com/2015/05/1100-gundam-deathscythe-hell-customized.html
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Dec 2, 2018 04:10
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TaurusOxford posted:
I can go for another Deathscythe TV version.
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Dec 2, 2018 04:57
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I just finished making the MG Jegan and it's really nice. It's got exceptional color separation and the proportions are great, so visually it's fantastic. The construction though, is a little.. curious? It may just be the fact that I built this after the MG GM Command, which uses almost the entire RX-78 2.0 frame, but the joints felt a little more HG than MG. There's no polycaps, which is almost always a good thing, though there's no ABS either so it's a very light model. The inner frame is made from the softer PS that most people are probably more familiar with from the HG-IBO series, and though it's extensively detailed, unlike 2.0 style frames which have moving armatures and pistons, all the detail on the Jegan frame is molded only, and all the joints are simple peg and hole hinges. It works very well and they even managed to fit an extra secret joint in the elbow design for a full double joint. For a new fully original MG though, it just feels oddly simplistic, even the conduits on the binders are hard molded plastic, where some wire and braided pipe could have looked really spiffy. On a side note though, never have I seen more separation points on runners. They designed those layouts specifically to churn out P-Bandai variants (though we'll probably see one or two pop up on general release as inbetweener MGs some day) and I will probably buy them... Having access to PB is exactly as bad as not having access to PB. 
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Dec 2, 2018 15:44
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Thats really good to know. Sometimes it's nice building a simple MG. I just don't like the mint green colour of the Jegan. Other than that it looks super cool though.
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Dec 2, 2018 21:55
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what's the compressor and airbrush set everyone reccomends for beginners
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Dec 2, 2018 22:37
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dudermcbrohan posted:what's the compressor and airbrush set everyone reccomends for beginners 
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Dec 2, 2018 22:45
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dudermcbrohan posted:what's the compressor and airbrush set everyone reccomends for beginners https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-COMPRESSOR-Training-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ Plus whatever gravity feed airbrush you want.
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Dec 2, 2018 23:43
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dudermcbrohan posted:what's the compressor and airbrush set everyone reccomends for beginners Also watch this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fkqCwc5-tbA and avoid every single mistake I made when I started airbrushing.
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Dec 3, 2018 00:32
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TaurusOxford posted:
*backlog of SN kits intensifies* So looks like they survived the bandai lawsuit
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Dec 3, 2018 02:08
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New on PB today MG Astray Red Dragon https://p-bandai.jp/hobby/special-1000009685/ One the one hand aww yiss. On the other hand 75 bucks.
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Dec 3, 2018 05:02
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RillAkBea posted:New on PB today MG Astray Red Dragon That is sick as. Maybe that's the one for me to try getting a third party shipper to get it to Aus. Anyone ever bought from P-Bandai down here?
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Dec 3, 2018 06:11
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Puddin posted:That is sick as. Maybe that's the one for me to try getting a third party shipper to get it to Aus. I've used Gentei Kits a couple of times and had good experiences. You end up paying comparable prices to what you often see on equivalent general release kits locally in Aus. Shipping is the real killer as you might expect.
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Dec 3, 2018 06:52
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Puddin posted:https://www.amazon.com/Airbrush-COMPRESSOR-Training-Published-Exclusively/dp/B001738DXU/ This is the correct compressor answer. Buy a few cheapass airbrushes and accept you're probably going to wreck them. When you're confident, get an Iwata Eclipse HP CS.
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Dec 3, 2018 09:30
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If there's an airbrush with finer pressure control, let me know.
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Dec 3, 2018 17:01
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