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Depends on the seam line. Most modern kits just don't have them, but the older kits with large rounded areas (old gouf, Z'Gok, etc) I'll construct the part, sand out any seam lines with a nail buffing block, deconstruct then go on to the paint etc stage. Sometimes I'll rarely build a part and paint it built, but I've never felt the need to glue parts together or fill. It's entirely possible that it's just because I stick totally to MGs and PGs that I avoid the problem, though.
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Dec 14, 2018 19:37
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Yawgmoft posted:I love my stickered boys! Always use all stickers! MG Unicorn and derivatives I fully disassembled and had like three bins with a bunch of dividers to hold parts for each arm, leg, head, waist, and chest separately while I painted. Each grouping went in its own foam block on skewers and clips. Most kits don't demand that level of separation, though. Xaerael posted:Depends on the seam line. Most modern kits just don't have them, but the older kits with large rounded areas (old gouf, Z'Gok, etc) I'll construct the part, sand out any seam lines with a nail buffing block, deconstruct then go on to the paint etc stage. Sometimes I'll rarely build a part and paint it built, but I've never felt the need to glue parts together or fill. It's entirely possible that it's just because I stick totally to MGs and PGs that I avoid the problem, though. HG Astray M1 has a front ankle guard seam I can't figure out how to fix and paint with the leg panel underneath it.
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Dec 14, 2018 20:13
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I always construct first but I use a hobby knife to slightly widen the female ends so that it comes apart easily. It allows for deconstruction easier and makes it easier to clean up seam liens. Also makes priming less wasteful as I'm priming the completed kit, not each individual piece.
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Dec 14, 2018 20:17
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I've always painted each piece individually, usually with the frame pre assembled, depending on complexity. Seam lines be damned!
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Dec 14, 2018 21:22
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I just do OOB builds with panel lining. 
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Dec 15, 2018 06:20
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Arcsquad12 posted:I just do OOB builds with panel lining. Same. I haven't tried decals since my first master grade, it didn't end well for me. In other news, I got a Moon Gundam. I've heard it has no stickers and is pretty amazing for a HG, looking forward to snapping it together.
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Dec 15, 2018 06:35
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I don't paint all mine just a select few. Majority get an OOB build. Looking forward to building the Moon as well, it's supposed to be pretty rad. Narrative ver Stein is also an excellent HG build.
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Dec 15, 2018 08:43
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Arcsquad12 posted:I just do OOB builds with panel lining. That's all I did for a long time, but my housemate kept telling me I should paint some since I'm a capable model painter, and it just became the norm to paint them from that point. The upshot really is that a kit that would take me a day to make now gives me a number of weeks of entertainment, and it allows me to grow as a model painter while painting something other than wargaming minis. I'm not the sort to bash people who OOB though. It's supposed to be a hobby that suits people with different needs, wants and abilities, and I think it's the perfect example of hobby-accessibility.
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Dec 15, 2018 14:59
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On the topic of painting, if anyone's ever wondered how people get those amazing detail effects, I just found this utterly awesome vid of a guy decorating the PG Millennium Falcon... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_QosiFMKbA
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Dec 15, 2018 16:08
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Puddin posted:Seam lines be damned! I'm only filling seams on one project right now and it's a huge fuckin pain but man it's cool to see. Not worth it to me on 99% of builds but awesome on the ones I really care about
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Dec 15, 2018 16:20
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Welp, sub 100 pieces left to paint. Xmas hiatus time.
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Dec 17, 2018 02:05
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So can you do any decent painting with rattle cans? Or is that just not really worth the effort?
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Dec 17, 2018 02:25
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You can get better-than-raw-plastic results. I'd say it's worth it TBH. You're not going to get an airbrush finish, but it will look better. I've done some funky things with automotive spray paint in the past, and I know a bunch of people on the FB group I hang out in use Tamiya rattles a lot.. Consider your topcoats, though. I pretty much always Matte armour and semi-gloss machinery. That alone will make your finished piece pop. e. also, practice on a lovely kit first. You can easily gum up a kit by overspraying it to death. Blue tack is your friend when it comes to masking off joints and stuff. Just clog up pegs and holes with it, spray, then when it's all dry just pick it out with a toothpick. Xaerael fucked around with this message at 02:47 on Dec 17, 2018 |
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Dec 17, 2018 02:43
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I did the gold bits on my MG Sinanju with a Tamiya spray can, and went over the black bits with a Gundam marker. From personal experience, the results can be good but if you're into Gunpla and want to paint even more, then you may as well invest in an airbrush.
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Dec 17, 2018 03:17
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Vahtooch posted:So can you do any decent painting with rattle cans? Or is that just not really worth the effort? You can get decent results but it wastes a lot of paint since you can't really control how fast it comes out. A lot of the time they layers will be pretty thick which can be a problem for armor pieces that slide against each other. One time I tried to get a candy coat finish on an HG Red Frame Astray using only rattle cans. By the time I was putting on the topcoat, the paint was WAY too thick to really work with. I ended up painting the whole thing gold and using it as a trophy for a videogame tournament. Edit: Speaking of ruined builds, does anyone else throw away and remake kits they made like 10 years ago? Null of Undefined fucked around with this message at 03:44 on Dec 17, 2018 |
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Dec 17, 2018 03:41
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Argas posted:I did the gold bits on my MG Sinanju with a Tamiya spray can, and went over the black bits with a Gundam marker. From personal experience, the results can be good but if you're into Gunpla and want to paint even more, then you may as well invest in an airbrush. This. The control and color customization blow away rattlecans entirely.
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Dec 17, 2018 04:09
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I painted my first kit with rattle cans and found it to not be worth the effort. Paint just goes on way too thick compared to an airbrush. It obscured a lot of the panels lines and it was a huge struggle to assemble it afterwards. To me it would be a better investment to put that money towards a cheap airbrush, it not like rattle can paint is very cheap to begin with.
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Dec 17, 2018 04:42
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Old Swerdlow posted:I painted my first kit with rattle cans and found it to not be worth the effort. Paint just goes on way too thick compared to an airbrush. It obscured a lot of the panels lines and it was a huge struggle to assemble it afterwards. To me it would be a better investment to put that money towards a cheap airbrush, it not like rattle can paint is very cheap to begin with. Yeah this is sort of what I was worried about since they are still pricy. I'm just not sure I'd use it enough to justify even a cheap air brush. Should ask around and see if anyone I know has one I can test it out with.
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Dec 17, 2018 05:03
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Stolen from Twitter, PG Seven Sword's sword is the size of an actual knife. https://twitter.com/dendero_no/status/1074111811404759040?s=19
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Dec 17, 2018 08:40
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Old Swerdlow posted:I painted my first kit with rattle cans and found it to not be worth the effort. Paint just goes on way too thick compared to an airbrush. It obscured a lot of the panels lines and it was a huge struggle to assemble it afterwards. To me it would be a better investment to put that money towards a cheap airbrush, it not like rattle can paint is very cheap to begin with. Pretty much. If you're only going to build, say, one or two kits a year and you want to do some paint but not a complete paint job, and then rattle cans are going to be way friendlier for your budget, but the results are also extremely limited. As Midjack said, they result is pretty thick even in the optimal conditions and it would be incredibly costly/ugly to do a full paint job with them. For something like gold on my MG Sinanju, it was fine. I didn't care to paint the whole kit and it's way better than the stickers, but an airbrush would've done a far better job while being more efficient with paint usage. Honestly, I don't build kits enough these days to really get back into it but if I do get back into the hobby on a regular basis I'm definitely going to get an airbrush.
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Dec 17, 2018 09:07
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Argas posted:Pretty much. If you're only going to build, say, one or two kits a year and you want to do some paint but not a complete paint job, and then rattle cans are going to be way friendlier for your budget, but the results are also extremely limited. As Midjack said, they result is pretty thick even in the optimal conditions and it would be incredibly costly/ugly to do a full paint job with them. For something like gold on my MG Sinanju, it was fine. I didn't care to paint the whole kit and it's way better than the stickers, but an airbrush would've done a far better job while being more efficient with paint usage. Yeah that's the thing, just doing it super inconsistently means its not really worth doing. Though rattle cans for the gold on a strike freedom I have in my cupboard would work....
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Dec 17, 2018 09:17
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All the red parts on my painted builds are army painter spray can jobs. If it's going on so thick that you're obscuring detail/can't put it together then you're using bad paint or bad technique (quick light coats).
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Dec 17, 2018 14:24
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RillAkBea posted:Stolen from Twitter, PG Seven Sword's sword is the size of an actual knife. There is no goddamn way that this kit's going to be able to hold these swords.
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Dec 17, 2018 17:42
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Monaghan posted:There is no goddamn way that this kit's going to be able to hold these swords. Well it's coming with action bases for the swords, right? RIGHT???
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Dec 17, 2018 18:28
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As someone who's built many scale models and is building his second gundam, I get why people don't fill in seams. The kits have incredible engineering already, and gundam are kinda weird in that the things they are supposed to look like are more or less designed to be a graded model kit in the first place, so even just constructing these things gets them drat close to the original. That said, I'm erasing lines and primering poo poo, because...this is how we do it? I'm building a HG Zaku Sniper. I have a few ideas for painting, no idea if they will work or not. Also question gundam nerds, do gundam get any wear or weathering? It seems to me they are made of space-age material and get as much maintenance as a F-14A. Nebakenezzer fucked around with this message at 20:42 on Dec 17, 2018 |
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Dec 17, 2018 19:32
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Depends on the universe/series they are from. unless it's SEED it at least gets chipped and roughed up.
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Dec 17, 2018 19:37
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Nebakenezzer posted:Also question gundam nerds, do gundam get any wear or weathering? It seems to me they are made of space-age material and get as much maintenance as a F-14A. It's not often shown in the animation, but yeah theoretically Gundams get worn over time 
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Dec 17, 2018 19:43
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Gripweed posted:It's not often shown in the animation, but yeah theoretically Gundams get worn over time I love the detailed still shots in 08th ms team, it really helps me trying to visualize weathering a mobile suit.
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Dec 17, 2018 19:47
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Everything is preference. For the most part I like my robits to look like they just rolled off the assembly line, as pristine as the creator/engineer envisioned.
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Dec 17, 2018 20:16
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I'm giving some thought to how I'll finish my Sazabi Ka. Considering doing a clear red over hot chrome.
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Dec 17, 2018 21:03
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Xaerael posted:I'm giving some thought to how I'll finish my Sazabi Ka. Considering doing a clear red over hot chrome. If you put the chrome over gloss black it’ll be really chrome.
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Dec 17, 2018 21:29
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Null of Undefined posted:If you put the chrome over gloss black it’ll be really chrome. I know. I've been doing that for years :P 
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Dec 17, 2018 21:43
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I'm working in my backlog and have made some progress but I'm at an impasse now. Should I work on the MG Jesta or MG Freedom 2 next?
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Dec 18, 2018 06:40
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Azubah posted:I'm working in my backlog and have made some progress but I'm at an impasse now. Jesta is a really good build.
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Dec 18, 2018 06:49
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Midjack posted:Jesta is a really good build. Seconded. It's not loaded down with fancy gimmicks, and I'd like a couple more weapons, but it's just an amazing build all around.
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Dec 18, 2018 07:47
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does jesta use a GM 2.0 frame? I built the 2.0 and it surprisingly is the best gundam i've built yet and would like more in that same vein (i already bought the two snipers MGs that came out recently, waiting until it gets warmer to build/throw paint on em)
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Dec 18, 2018 22:07
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tenderjerk posted:does jesta use a GM 2.0 frame? I built the 2.0 and it surprisingly is the best gundam i've built yet and would like more in that same vein (i already bought the two snipers MGs that came out recently, waiting until it gets warmer to build/throw paint on em) IIRC the Jesta is its own unique frame
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Dec 18, 2018 22:50
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The Jesta's a great kit but the freedom 2.0 is in my top three of best master grades I've ever made.
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Dec 18, 2018 23:37
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Monaghan posted:The Jesta's a great kit but the freedom 2.0 is in my top three of best master grades I've ever made. I'll have to promote that one in my backlog!
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Dec 18, 2018 23:57
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Monaghan posted:The Jesta's a great kit but the freedom 2.0 is in my top three of best master grades I've ever made. Yeah. I’m not a huge freedom fan but I bought the special edition on some recommendations. It is just a fantastic kit, fun to build, easy to pose. Made me buy the justice too, and I’m kinda hoping for a new Strike Freedom.
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Dec 19, 2018 02:42
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