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Sockser posted:I’m assuming by Spax you’re referring to the ones that are Star-drive? You have to work pretty hard to strip star drives. You might just be driving them too fast and not putting enough pressure on the bit. Maybe switch your drill into first gear next time? Star drive are fine I doubt its that. More likely is that they are using a hammer drill to send screws, the action is different than a regular driver. Higher quality hammer drills have different settings so they can be used to send screws.
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Jan 16, 2019 02:52
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Sockser posted:I’m assuming by Spax you’re referring to the ones that are Star-drive? You have to work pretty hard to strip star drives. You might just be driving them too fast and not putting enough pressure on the bit. Maybe switch your drill into first gear next time? Harry Potter on Ice posted:Star drive are fine I doubt its that. More likely is that they are using a hammer drill to send screws, the action is different than a regular driver. Higher quality hammer drills have different settings so they can be used to send screws. It has a hammer mode/switch/whatever which was off, no need for that. It’s a cheap ryobi so it has only one gear, but apparently it’s too powerful. The problem was that, in retrospect, in conjunction with the way my dumb rear end built the shelves. There were two ways to do it and I chose the hard way, meaning the shelves sitting standing up on 2x4 uprights. Thus I was drilling behind OSB and underneath another 2x4, making it too difficult to get a lot of force on the screws even though I was standing over the drill and putting a lot of my weight on it. I realized halfway through that the drill was too big, but the cordless drill wasn’t doing it either, it would seize no matter what gear I used. Again I made sure there weren’t other screws in the way, I had better luck getting other screws into knots than I did getting these screws in. I still don’t know what the deal was with that, even on perfectly good screw heads and a new Spax bit I found in the box which apparently came with two.
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Jan 16, 2019 06:21
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Now I don’t mean to sound nudgementak when I say this, because I did the exact same thing boring pocketholes today, but did you have the drill in reverse
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Jan 16, 2019 07:15
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think Ikea is the least sustainable furniture in the world-anything you have to replace every 3 years is unsustainable, even if it is made out of recycled particleboard. I have some particle board book shelves from Ikea which are fine after 18 years of use and will probably stand up to another 30 by the look of them. Coffee table is their cheapest model and still looks new after 13 years. I could go on. Not saying you're wrong, we should all be buying better quality stuff and not have to replace furniture after 3 years, I'm just saying that you should probably point the fingers at other business than Ikea. Their success involves doing pretty good choices in the constant tradeoff between quality and cost control. There are many companies providing much worse quality at higher prices - mostly in the bottom segment of the market of course.
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Jan 16, 2019 10:26
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think Ikea is the least sustainable furniture in the world-anything you have to replace every 3 years is unsustainable, even if it is made out of recycled particleboard. I do alot of antique reproductions (hence the large quantities of mahogany), and I think they should last 200 years like the originals. Wood is the most sustainable building material we have-we just have to quit cutting it down faster than it can regrow itself. I console myself that wherever the wood comes from, I think I am putting it to a very good use that should last a very long time. I won't argue or disagree with what you've said except I and most people I know who've bought IKEA have got a decade or more out of most of it (plastic trinkets aside). Of course I'd prefer everything I owned was heirloom furniture made by skilled craftsmen but that's simply unaffordable for the overwhelming majority of people sadly. I'll pick up used if I can and try to learn to make things, hence my beginners-level participation in this thread.
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Jan 16, 2019 12:49
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Sockser posted:Now I don’t mean to sound nudgementak when I say this, because I did the exact same thing boring pocketholes today, but did you have the drill in reverse Lol yeah a couple times, realized it within a second or two though. Anyway, now to figure out what I can make with the leftover scrap. I have a long 2x8 piece of OSB and some smaller scrap OSB sheets. I used some leftover 2x4 as shims, but the longest leftover 2x4 is attached to the wall as an anchor for the shelf. That leaves me mostly OSB, which kind of sucks because I wish I had more 2x4 left to build something on the fly and probably gently caress up royally also.
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Jan 16, 2019 14:34
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life is killing me posted:Lol yeah a couple times, realized it within a second or two though. The good news is you can buy cheapo 2x4s from anyplace that sells lumber. My local big box stores sell 8' stud grade 2x4 for a little over $2. Sure, it's a little wet and can have a ton of knots, but if you search through the pile a little bit you might find something decent. It's just cheap enough where you can buy enough to make a stool or small bench and not have to tell anyone because it was less than my wife spends on coffee in a week. Maybe your wife doesn't drink coffee, so you'll have to find your own comparison.
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Jan 16, 2019 15:23
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Hell, Home Depot has generic whitewood studs for $2.77 per, which is what I got for the shelf. Yeah many of them were knotty and bowed, even a couple I picked out were bowed. But still, I can work with bowed.
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Jan 16, 2019 15:32
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life is killing me posted:Lol yeah a couple times, realized it within a second or two though. Sounds like you’re new to this hobby. The solution to your current problem is to pile it all up in the corner and repeatedly trip on it and go buy new materials and throw the leftovers from those future projects into that pile until you’ve got a big enough pile that you can make entire projects out of it
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Jan 16, 2019 15:32
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Sockser posted:Sounds like you’re new to this hobby. The solution to your current problem is to pile it all up in the corner and repeatedly trip on it and go buy new materials and throw the leftovers from those future projects into that pile until you’ve got a big enough pile that you can make entire projects out of it I'm one year or so in and this is shockingly accurate.
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Jan 16, 2019 17:17
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Then, every 5 years or when you completely run out of space, clean it out and wonder why you were keeping all this crap. Followed by wishing you hadn't cleaned it up for a few months when you need 'that piece I know I put over here the other day'.
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Jan 16, 2019 19:29
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taqueso posted:Then, every 5 years or when you completely run out of space, clean it out and wonder why you were keeping all this crap. Followed by wishing you hadn't cleaned it up for a few months when you need 'that piece I know I put over here the other day'. That's exactly what happens with everything in my life. ... I know I had that one letter with the thing and the other thing, and I put it right there two months ago ... I need to clean up my usually unnecessary stuff more often. I finally cleaned up and assembled the blocks I made for an end grain cutting board from maple, and now I'm hand sanding it because my planes just try to leave gouges and I don't have anything electric but an orbital sander that doesn't seem to work half as fast as just doing it by hand. It ended up fitting together okay, in so much that there was only one small gap that needed filling. I ended up with 3/4" board in the end, which is not the 2" I was wanting, but it will be useful. Many lessons learned I guess.
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Jan 16, 2019 19:46
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Or alternately just continue to accumulate the scraps and offcuts of dozens of projects over the course of 20+ years, periodically solving the problem by moving to a place with more space. Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I come from a long line of foresters/loggers who would say that all lumber is sustainable and have inherited some of their worldview-I also just bought 200bf of African mahogany this morning so take all that as whatever grain of salt you like. I appreciate your lengthy response. Without trying to pick an argument, I'll just say that I somewhat disagree on a few points - demand certainly affects supply, so participating in the demand for something isn't guilt-free if the supply is problematic to produce. But I'm also aware that in some cases, old growth is being clearcut (or worse, simply burned) regardless, so we can either make use of the timber or not, but we're not saving that plot of forest by refusing. quote:There's a good bit of south american mahogany that is plantation grown now. quote:I think Ikea is the least sustainable furniture in the world-anything you have to replace every 3 years is unsustainable, even if it is made out of recycled particleboard. I do alot of antique reproductions (hence the large quantities of mahogany), and I think they should last 200 years like the originals. Wood is the most sustainable building material we have-we just have to quit cutting it down faster than it can regrow itself. I console myself that wherever the wood comes from, I think I am putting it to a very good use that should last a very long time. Agree with others that 3 years is hyperbole: but it's true that an heirloom can last 200 years. The vast majority of furniture made 200 years ago is gone, though; there is a survivorship bias (the lovely quality stuff fell apart after 10 years, the good quality stuff survived, and now we say "they sure don't make em like they used to" while looking at a tiny fraction of what they used to make). By far the majority of wood is used for structures and pulp products; the amount used for furniture must be a tiny fraction by comparison. If particle board is made from what would otherwise be a waste product, than it doesn't even matter how long it lasts, it's a net positive. If they're cutting down trees just to make particle board, then yeah it's a net negative compared to better quality furniture... maybe. Because the key thing about IKEA particle board furniture is that it's flat-pack, which allows for a far more efficient distribution system, which in turn means saving on carbon emissions in freight. It could well be that the net impact of shipping 10,000 assembled bookshelves from Norway vs. 10,000 flat packed bookshelves is larger than the net impact of those bookshelves lasting 15 years instead of 30. I'm honestly not sure, and it may be too complex of a question for anyone to actually answer with certainty. BUT ANYWAY my main interest is more specifically the hardwoods, especially exotic hardwoods, and given hardwoods take much longer to grow than softwoods used for cheap furniture, sustainability is still a real question. Trash pine may be wastefully used, but a plantation can produce a huge amount of clear white pine timber over the span of 30 years, while it can take considerably longer for hardwoods (mahogany is apparently a fairly fast-growing hardwood, reaching mature height in just 20 years). I more frequently see woods like rosewood, purpleheart, sapele, teak, cedar, wenge, etc. and I don't really know when I'm looking at this stuff whether a given species is "good" or "kinda bad" or "really really bad" to buy. I'm also kinda curious as to whether the general trend in hobby woodworking is to care a lot, or a little, or not at all. I've seen a big shift in a couple of the other hobby areas I've dabbled in - poison dart frogs, for example - where it used to be nobody seemed to give a poo poo and nowadays it's all about reputable breeders and well-documented sources and habitat preservation initiatives.
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Jan 16, 2019 20:01
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I don't NOT care, but as you laid out it's a really big complex equation. Unless somebody wants to convince me that any one particular wood species can only be grown in dirt watered with the blood of refugee children or something, I'm going to use the minimal amount I use for my own projects and not worry about it. The vast bulk of what I go through is fir; if you look at this state in Google's aerial view, approximately 40% of the pixels in it are fir tree. I'm pretty sure it grows back faster than we can consume it, at least for now.
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Jan 16, 2019 20:25
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Leperflesh posted:
On that South American plantation mahogany note- I used what was called that some years ago for a project and it was actually eucalyptus, iirc. Quite hard and more dense and heavy than mahogany; and somewhat similar to mahogany color although the grain was quite regular and bland. A lot of the exotics being clear cut/burned are in developing countries for basic economic reasons. It's a disaster in Brazil because their hardwoods do not really enrich the soil over the centuries like North American hardwoods did- this is hearsay I read, so if someone has better info, etc, etc. Indonesia is another clusterfuck example of forests being clearcut to make room for a nut oil producing palm (?) based on the ethanol something-something alternative-to-fossil-fuels energy initiative. It's also got the side effect of increasing global warming dramatically from all the smoke being released as they clearcut vast forests.
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Jan 16, 2019 20:45
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I just use common US woods. Stuff like oak, maple, pine, and cherry in my latest project. I haven't checked, but I assume they're all US grown, and maybe even relatively local. I can't imagine building a project that would require exotic/questionably sourced woods. That said, I wouldn't look down on someone who does. I don't know enough about the issue to have an opinion.
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Jan 16, 2019 20:54
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Javid posted:I'm going to use the minimal amount I use for my own projects and not worry about it. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgsDWb0orSQ I tell people that wood turners have a weird love/hate relationship with trees. With the amount of waste you produce you have to hate trees on some level 
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Jan 16, 2019 20:55
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I've been doing a little googling and here's a (absurdly tiny, lol @ websites that force an 1024px wide column or something) site that goes into some detail about the species of mahogany, mahogany-alikes that are sold as mahogany, and the restrictions from various countries. http://www.rainforestrelief.org/Wha...M/Mahogany.html I suspect it's out of date. e. The plantation eucalyptus (hybrid!) species sometimes sold as a mahogany-replacement is "Lyptus" ( https://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/wood-conversations/mahogany/ scroll down to the bottom of the page) e. This comment on that article by a botanist is excellent and thorough: https://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/wood-conversations/mahogany/#comment-2877738458 quote:There has been a decline in the amount of genuine mahogany in the world over the last century, due to over-harvesting. Many red-colored woods have taken the place of mahogany by default, and the reasons why mahogany became the wood that the world fell in love with, have been lost in the saw-dust. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 21:07 on Jan 16, 2019 |
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Jan 16, 2019 20:58
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JEEVES420 posted:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LgsDWb0orSQ Good god dude, why don't you just use some veneer?  I used to really want a lathe, but then I started doing wheel work at my local pottery studio, and I find it scratches the same itch for me. Obviously the end products are for completely different purposes -- I'm not going to be making clay posts for use in furniture, for example. But you get a similar "I took this formless lump and made a pretty, symmetrical design out of it" kind of thing. And if you muck up the clay, a) it's not going to explode in your face (it does that in the kiln), and b) if it hasn't been fired yet, you can recycle it by adding water.
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Jan 16, 2019 21:26
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There's a fucky character (or something) in that prhardwoods link, but if you fix that, it works, for anyone feeling disappointed: https://prhardwoods.com
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Jan 16, 2019 21:28
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I try to be informed about the kinds of wood I buy, and to that end it’s a bit easier in Australia since the only species we can easily get are radiata pine and eucalyptus. I did buy a small piece of huon pine when I was in Tasmania and I really feel bad about that. They grow extremely slowly, so large trees are 1000-2000 years old, with one being 10,500 years old. The forestry industry there is very politically influential, but they are still illegal to cut down. It was pretty obvious live trees were still being felled though.
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Jan 16, 2019 21:50
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Anyone else going to the Lee-Nielson hand tool event in Los Angeles this weekend? I'm debating making the drive from Bakersfield.
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Jan 16, 2019 22:04
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Target Practice posted:Anyone else going to the Lee-Nielson hand tool event in Los Angeles this weekend? I'm debating making the drive from Bakersfield. I went to the one in Seattle. Be warned that it was mostly old dudes buying $8000 worth of stuff and a few hipster looking dudes doing half rear end demos.
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Jan 16, 2019 22:23
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Exotic wood chat reminded me of a tree thing that happened during that job involving the faux mahogany/eucalyptus. Which I may have posted here before, but I can't categorize all the anecdotes I've posted and where, etc. So, let's call him Jim, Jim's an old buddy of mine from the hippie days, except he never outgrew that lifestyle. Which is ok enough. I mean, now that pot is legal everyone is getting into getting grow licenses, etc. but this guy used to grow down on the Washita River, which is supposedly some of the richest soil....I digress. He got us this job for his brother's company to build a showroom for their product. But his mind wasn't on it and his heart was 2000 miles away. He'd get a call on his flip phone and walk around freaking out....this went on for a week or 2, until he asked me if I could finish the job on my own with a couple of grunt hands. Turns out his current girlfriend- and he had terrible luck with the females. He could attract them, but couldn't keep one for any length of time- she was a treesitter out in the redwood forest. We're talking like 100 feet up in the air in a nest 24/7 to keep the logging companies from felling these majestic giants. And it was a real battle between the tree-sitters and the tree-sitter whisperer the company had hired to get them away from the trees by hook or crook. Anyhow, he goes out there and drags her back here for a time to rest up and get healthy, iirc. There was a lot more to the story, but I can't remember much more. I think there were youtubes of them and the guy who was their arch nemesis. edit- Granite Octopus posted:I try to be informed about the kinds of wood I buy, and to that end it’s a bit easier in Australia since the only species we can easily get are radiata pine and eucalyptus. I've seen some projects in wood magazines by Aussie dudes, and some of that lumber I've never seen anywhere else....beautiful stuff. Well probably all of it, you won't find anywhere else.
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Jan 16, 2019 22:35
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Pretty much the only woods I've used are oak, cedar, poplar, cherry, walnut, and purpleheart. And pine/fir/redwood, I guess. There's some cool-looking more exotic woods out there but the price is enough to drive me away for hobby work -- that, and the fear of loving up a $20/bdft piece of lumber.
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Jan 16, 2019 22:46
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All my exotic wood stock comes from the cutoff bin at the woodcraft when it goes on sale for $2/lb
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Jan 17, 2019 00:18
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Yeah, using a scrap of something that was already harvested anyway is always the low-guilt option. RIP the scrap bin at the hardwood place here that closed down and moved. 
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Jan 17, 2019 00:38
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Leperflesh posted:I've been doing a little googling and here's a (absurdly tiny, lol @ websites that force an 1024px wide column or something) site that goes into some detail about the species of mahogany, mahogany-alikes that are sold as mahogany, and the restrictions from various countries. If you want to make better choices, I would stay away from the rosewoods generally, and maybe stay away from most stuff coming out of Africa-I feel like Central/south america is a little better governed and regulated. In the past few years huge demand from the Chinese middle class for reproduction classical chinese furniture made of rosewood has driven a whole bunch of rosewood species onto the the IUCN red list and I think all Dahlbergias and bubinga are controlled under CITES II as of a year or two ago. There is lots of plantation grown teak, but it still costs $20/bf. Hopefully the high demand/cost for rosewoods and other exotics will incentivize the planting of plantations. It's my understanding that purpleheart is really pretty common and they make railroad ties out of it in South America. There are some problems growing tropical hardwoods in plantations that aren't a problem for growing pine trees or hardwoods in temperate climates. Insects/diseases tend to be much more prevalent in tropical forests, and in nature individual trees of the same species tend to be far apart (there are like a bazillian different species of trees in an acre of rainforest). Put a bunch of them together in a plantation and they get wiped out. For this reason, it's not uncommon for plantations of mahogany to be grown in SE Asia and teak plantations in South America-the pests that have evolved with them aren't present halfway around the world. There's a kind of exhaustive but really excellent book about trees called "The Tree" by Colin Tudge that touches on some neat stuff about tropical hardwoods. The problem with a lot of these woods is that they have desirable properties with no good substitutes. You just can't make pine have the same acoustic properties as rosewood or pernambuco or make oak as decay resistant as teak. Mahogany is a prime example-if you got everyone who works with wood or timber together to design an ideal wood, they would come up with something very close to mahogany. It is strong, stiff and dense without being excessively heavy, hard but not so hard that it is difficult to work. It is wonderfully dimensionaly stable and stays where you put it, is fairly rot and insect resistant and takes paint well. The trees grow tall and straight like a pine tree with a long bole free of limbs, and so it produces long, clear, straight lumber that dries easily without warping or checking. It bends reasonably well, can be stunningly gorgeous, and is, on top of it all, a very good carving wood and an incredible tonewood. If it has a flaw, it is it's open grain which occasionally requires filling before finishing. Boatbuilders, carvers, turners, furnituremakers, luthiers, patternmakers and millwork shops all love it, and there is no other wood (or even artificial material) which can supply all of it's excellent qualities. Recently, we've gotten a lot better at treating wood (acetylated wood/accoya), and that will hopefully reduce some pressure on mahogany for exterior millwork, but for a long time it was best option for exterior wooden doors and windows, and that represents a whole lot of wood. I might go through 5-600 bf of mahogany in a year, but there are millwork shops here that run through 2000 bf a week. I think lately woodworking as a hobby has moved away from exotics a bit. The Krenov kind of stuff that loved super figured exotics doesn't seem to be as popular, and federal style brown furniture (much to my chagrin) is not exactly in style either at the moment. The simple shaker and midcentury modern stuff that seems to be in style now lends itself well to domestic stuff like walnut and oak/ash and cherry. Schwartz et al. love white oak and milk paint on pine. Slab tables are still very in, and they make excellent use of wood from trees that wouldn't make very good lumber. A mill wants a tall, straight walnut tree that grew in a forest and will produce long, thick, clear boards, but that makes a pretty boring slab table. A field grown tree with a short, fat trunk and a bunch of branches makes a terrible sawlog, but makes a beautiful table full of cool crotches as swirls.
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Jan 17, 2019 01:34
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I always tell people that buying hardwoods is alot like buying fish-people will call anything grouper and anything mahogany. Apropos: I use the Monterey Bay Aquarium app "Seafood Watch" to find out what fish to prefer and what to avoid, because it's impossible to memorize whether e.g. this particular "rockfish" is good or bad (it's probably bad). I'd love a similar reference or app for wood species, something you can have in your pocket when you're at the wood store browsing the wood and you see that, say, Sepele is on sale and is that OK to grab some or what?
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Jan 17, 2019 02:18
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Sockser posted:Sounds like you’re new to this hobby. The solution to your current problem is to pile it all up in the corner and repeatedly trip on it and go buy new materials and throw the leftovers from those future projects into that pile until you’ve got a big enough pile that you can make entire projects out of it True. Over Christmas I made my daughters a toy chest entirely out of scrap.
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Jan 17, 2019 03:42
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If anything scraps are great for shop jigs and test pieces. I just made a quick and dirty spline jig for my tablesaw with scraps from over 10 years ago. You will eventually find a use for it (and make more along the way).
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Jan 17, 2019 06:54
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I was wondering if any of you could give feedback on a used bandsaw? This one: https://boston.craigslist.org/nwb/tls/d/westford-jet-14-free-standing-bandsaw/6795873967.html It's about a 1.5h trip each way for me to get it, so wanted to at least try to get some opinions. Reading up on it sounds pretty good. Jet JWBS-14 for $275. Any particular questions I should ask about it before deciding? Not sure if those models have a particular fault or weakness and don't want to get up there to find out something obviously broken etc that I could have asked about beforehand. Thanks! Also, I'm building some frame and panel cabinet doors for a project. The panel is 1/4" plywood and the frames are going to be butt jointed 3/4" thick soft maple. I need to cut the grooves for the 1/4" panel and I'm trying to figure out the easiest / best / safest method. The horizontal frames can be through dadoes but the vertical frames need to be stopped dadoes. I've done this before with a hand router plane, but I have some power tools now and am building this project to learn more on using them. Looking through some of the Norm Abram books I have he just pushes the stile against his table saw fence and gently sits it down over a moving dado stack. I don't have a dado stack, so I could do this ~3x at changing fence depths, but honestly I'm scared to do this right now on my table saw. I have a router and a plunge base for it but no router table yet. Is there a good way to set that up to cut a 1/4" stopped dado in a 20"x3/4" piece of maple? Looking around on my own as well, but always like to get an opinion from the experience itt.
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Jan 17, 2019 14:34
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Do you have an edge guide for your router?
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Jan 17, 2019 14:46
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simble posted:Do you have an edge guide for your router? Yes, I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Deluxe...la-434417410753 I've not used it yet other than as a way to mount a dust collection hose while I used a roundover bit on a bunch of MDF.
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Jan 17, 2019 14:48
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So assuming that it will reach the dados you need to cut, which I’m sure it will. Grab some scrap, clamp it to something that will support the guide adequately and give it a whirl.
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Jan 17, 2019 14:53
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Or if the dados are too close to the edge, put a straight edge on the inside of the dado and use the flat side of your routers baseplate as your guide.
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Jan 17, 2019 15:04
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simble posted:Or if the dados are too close to the edge, put a straight edge on the inside of the dado and use the flat side of your routers baseplate as your guide. Looks like that edge guide will accommodate what I need to do without any spacers or tricks, just need to clamp the piece along the edge of my bench and edge it over from the top. Thanks for walking me through it a bit. Just am very unfamiliar with this kind of setup and hadn't gotten my head around what I have at my disposal now to work with.
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Jan 17, 2019 15:53
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Router with straight bit and edge guide is probably the way to go. Depending on what sort of joinery you’re using to hold your butt joints together, you could also run the dados the full length of the styles (vertical part) and then put a stub tenon on the end of the rails (horizontal part) to fill the dado. It’s not a bad baby step into mortise and tenon joinery if you haven’t done that before.
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Jan 17, 2019 16:17
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Router with straight bit and edge guide is probably the way to go. Depending on what sort of joinery you’re using to hold your butt joints together, you could also run the dados the full length of the styles (vertical part) and then put a stub tenon on the end of the rails (horizontal part) to fill the dado. It’s not a bad baby step into mortise and tenon joinery if you haven’t done that before. Ah that's a nice idea I hadn't considered putting stub tenons to cap the rails like that. Thanks! I've built a frame and panel / mortise and tenon cabinet before just this past year as one of my 1st real furniture projects, but just did it entirely with unpowered tools and a router plane. Just wasn't thinking right about edge guide use on the powered router.  That Works fucked around with this message at 16:39 on Jan 17, 2019 |
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Jan 17, 2019 16:22
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Sockser posted:Sounds like you’re new to this hobby. The solution to your current problem is to pile it all up in the corner and repeatedly trip on it and go buy new materials and throw the leftovers from those future projects into that pile until you’ve got a big enough pile that you can make entire projects out of it The shelf was my first big project, second only to the...tiny bathroom drawer dividers/organizers I made with pallet planks which I heavily sanded. It's still sitting in the garage the way I left it because building the shelf required me to move all my poo poo and park my car outside, and clean out the closet seen in the photo because that was the original intended location for the shelf. But I had moved my Husky toolbox in there which was no small feat, and I didn't want to move it back out, so all the random poo poo I haven't yet found a place for is sitting in the loving garage on my side and when I started to do organization I said gently caress it. I still have a hanging shelf I need to install, but will need help with that for sure. Too much poo poo, sun rocks for landscaping, power washer, mower, other garden and lawn tools and all sorts of poo poo I have no place for and boxes of poo poo in the closet I can't throw away yet until bulk trash pickup. It'll probably be this way for another month before I get around to messing with it, if I had to guess. My yard isn't big enough for a workshop.
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Jan 17, 2019 16:50
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