|
This is a cool idea: https://modelingmadness.com/review/allies/gb/fighters/miktem.htm
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2019 19:11
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 09:12 |
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:If anyone has a Michaels near them, check out their beading section for tools like that. I was surprised at how wide a selection Michaels had for beading tools that would work perfectly for modeling. Wait! Michaels can be the CHEAPER option for sourcing something? 
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2019 19:12
|
|
|
wait til you hear about their near weekly 50% off coupon
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2019 19:15
|
|
|
The Locator posted:You can also use brass, which is available in pretty much any size and starts straight! Unless you order your brass rod from Amazon and they just ship it in an envelope. 
|
|
#
?
Jan 10, 2019 19:53
|
|
|
Avenging Dentist posted:Unless you order your brass rod from Amazon and they just ship it in an envelope. Haha... somewhat related, but I had to buy a dowel rod at my local hardware store a few years ago back when I only had a motorcycle, and it only came in like 1.5m lengths. Snapped it over my knee roughly into thirds then stuffed it into my topcase (only needed really short lengths for replacing some broken ones on an IKEA bookcase, fortunately). The Locator posted:You can also use brass, which is available in pretty much any size and starts straight! This might have been more what I was thinking of. I realise I'm also going to need a way to braze/join it... what metal would play best with a soldering iron? I've got one of those fancier types with a digital temp adjust.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 00:04
|
|
|
Anything. Brass is one of the easiest things to solder. You could solder it with a match and an old random piece of solder you found on the floor.
|
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 00:59
|
|
|
I would suggest the minimum requirements for doing brass properly are: A soldering iron with a clean tip A tip cleaning sponge Electrical solder (i.e. with rosin/flux added) Leaded solder (with no rosin/flux) and liquid flux (i.e. phosphoric acid) Paintbrush A fibreglass pencil A flat needle file When the brass is etched there is a cusp all the way around, so gently file it flat with the needle file, then burnish any areas to be soldered with the fibreglass pencil. Cut a salami slice (or 10) of solder and put them on a heatproof surface Remember to plug in the soldering iron, then wait for it to get hot Use the paintbrush to apply a generous amount of flux to the two areas that are going to be joined pick up a dot of solder with the tip of the soldering iron and apply it to the pieces (which you are holding tight and together) and let it wick into place using the flux. You should see a tiny bead of solder on the opposite side of the join to where you are applying the iron Wipe the soldering iron on the sponge to clean off the flux (which is corrosive) Clean up with the fibreglass pencil again EDIT: the electrical solder is only used to 'tin' the bit if it starts going dull even after wiping Southern Heel fucked around with this message at 12:56 on Jan 11, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 11, 2019 12:21
|
|
|
For my brass I honestly prefer silver solder and a micro-torch. If I was a richer man, I'd just use a resistance soldering system, they are awesome (a friend of mine has one). Unfortunately, unless you are doing a LOT of soldering, they really aren't easy to justify - https://smile.amazon.com/American-B...+soldering+iron
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 03:09
|
|
|
So is Revell going whole-hog with being an E-retailer? The only shops stocking the He 177 and An-225 are European. It seems even hobbylink japan is cut out of the loop.
|
|
#
?
Jan 12, 2019 04:27
|
|
|
So I've been posting in this thread for nearly 9 years now (Page 8!) and I've done and posted quite a few kits and WIP, Battlestar, WWII, GW, historical and used various different scales and paint techniques. But now behold! My latest project! Not quite on topic but thought you nerds might enjoy to see progress anyway. Added banana for scale.   
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 21:21
|
|
|
Looks cool, what is it?
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 21:38
|
|
|
Is that a crawler?
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 22:05
|
|
|
It looks like a turntable. Either a shovel or mining equipment is my guess
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 22:10
|
|
|
I made some progress on the Ki-61: I'm slowly getting the hang on working with these tiny parts. The PE kit really makes the cockpit shine. It's a pity that the kit doesn't have an open-canopy option, so it's not going to be really visible in the finished model.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 22:16
|
|
|
big_g posted:So I've been posting in this thread for nearly 9 years now (Page 8!) and I've done and posted quite a few kits and WIP, Battlestar, WWII, GW, historical and used various different scales and paint techniques. I just put one of those together myself. Good fun. I won't spoil it for anyone 
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 22:56
|
|
|
Kurvi Tasch posted:I made some progress on the Ki-61: Really really nice job, that looks ace.
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 23:07
|
|
|
long-rear end nips Diane posted:Looks cool, what is it?
|
|
#
?
Jan 16, 2019 23:56
|
|
|
Disgruntled Bovine posted:I just put one of those together myself. Good fun. I won't spoil it for anyone Please do in spoiler tags because I have no clue what the gently caress that is other than being made out of lego.
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 08:40
|
|
|
Pierzak posted:A rotating photo stand? A rotating potato stand?
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 08:52
|
|
|
Bloody Hedgehog posted:A rotating potato stand?
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 12:02
|
|
|
It's the base section of the lego bucket wheel excavator: https://shop.lego.com/en-US/Bucket-Wheel-Excavator-42055
|
|
#
?
Jan 17, 2019 18:39
|
|
|
Finally got to the end of the thread. Kind of amazing to see that it's been going for 10 years. It's been really nice to see all the fantastic stuff people have made, and watch people's skills improve. I started in this hobby making snap together Gundam kits as a teen/early 20 something. Then I started watching formula 1 and got the idea into my head to do a scale model of them. I didn't think it through and walked in blind, which is just as well because if I had, I never would have done it. I started with a Revell 1:24 McLaren F1 car. Even some 5-6 years later, it sticks in my mind. My god the decals. Complex tiny decals over weird curved surfaces. It was a baptism of fire. In some ways it was great because everything after that was easy by comparison. I have a few pictures:   After the Revell kit I discovered Tamiya and built a few of those. As you can see my efforts were pretty poor. Minimal painting, sanding or preparation. No airbrushing of anything. Decals placed poorly. It's kind of weird because I bought an airbrush and compressor around that time, but never ended up using them. But I got the urge again recently so I've decided to do this properly. I've shelved the F1 kits for now and bought myself 2 1/72 aircraft. A Tamiya Zero, and an Academy P47. I'm doing the P47 first to shake off the ring rust and get some practice with my airbrush. I thought it looked like a pretty good kit until I saw the Tamiya P47 a few pages back. The difference in the quality of the kit is quite noticeable. But that's ok, I'm looking forward to finally doing a model properly. From prepping, construction to painting. For the Zero, I've bought some aftermarket resin bits and photo etch to try that stuff out. Should be fun.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2019 10:35
|
|
|
I’ve done that very same maclaren and the only thing I added was the correct Marlboro decals and not much more. I’m almost finished a Lancia Stratos and depending on if I find something on Sunday my next kit will be a BMW M6 GT3 done up in Bathurst 12hr colors. I was looking at a different version but decided it was worth the wait to get something decal wise that I’ve seen in the flesh and will get to see again in the next 2 weeks.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2019 10:48
|
|
|
I think these F1's look great. And you can't really compare to the top guys in this thread who have years of experience! I'm completely like you, maybe a few more kits under my belt, but barely. What I do now is buy cheapish kits to try or refine techniques (ignoring the poor fittings etc of cheaper models) ; they usually don't hold up very good and are not worthy displaying, so I just give them to my son. When I'm finally happy with whatever technique I'm working on, I go for a more expensive model like Tamiya's.
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2019 10:52
|
|
|
Furism posted:I think these F1's look great. Poor, distant photography hides a multitude of sins, but thanks for the compliment. I think my main problems were inexperience, impatience and poor tools/kit management leading to burnout. Definitely going to pace myself better this time. It's also probably worth noting that in the time since then I took up watch collecting/fettling as a hobby and turned this:  Into this:   So I learnt a lot about fine tweezer work. Springy PE parts don't scare me. 
Carth Dookie fucked around with this message at 11:24 on Jan 18, 2019 |
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2019 11:18
|
|
|
Carth Dookie posted:Poor, distant photography hides a multitude of sins, but thanks for the compliment. I think my main problems were inexperience, impatience and poor tools/kit management leading to burnout. Definitely going to pace myself better this time. Don't step into any quantum field generator test chambers
|
|
#
?
Jan 18, 2019 13:02
|
|
|
Some progress shots  
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2019 02:34
|
|
|
big_g posted:Some progress shots My guess is a NASA crawler-transporter
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2019 05:57
|
|
|
My guess is something loving awesome.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2019 18:11
|
|
|
I built one of those Lego sets, it was lots of fun. So I picked up a Dragon P-51 kit, it's...Interesting. The detail work on the parts is fantastic in some areas, and utterly poo poo in other. There's lots of mold lines that need fixed, and the fit is spectacularly dumb.  After glueing the engine and cockpit assembly to one fuselage side, you glue the sides together and...The interior parts are obviously hilariously far off. Like an eighth of an inch thinner than the interior volume. I suppose it's better than being larger, but god drat. I don't really care too much, as it's not that apparent except for the massive gap along one of the cockpit floor edges. I'll have to chop up some sprue bits to fill it in.  The body detail looks good, so does the engine and main engine mounts. Then the extra supports that frame around the engine are just blank. It's like one experienced guy and one moron designed this kit.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 02:03
|
|
|
The Meng Mk.V that's been cluttering up my workbench for nearly three months now is finally coming together. I must say, I'm not loving the engineering on this kit, especially the sprue attachment points on the rails where the major assemblies come together. Hopefully it's not noticeable from the outside.
|
|
#
?
Jan 22, 2019 03:07
|
|
|
I’m thinking my next step in the hobby will be getting an airbrush after having another set of decals eaten by tamiyas clear spray from a can. The first two light coats didn’t affect them at all but the third one crinkled the decals which doesn’t look real flash on a race car that’s fully decaled. I figure I can get away with a cheapish compressor with a tank to start with then spend a bit more on a decent airbrush. Used setups are pretty difficult to come across so I’ll have to go for new. Any recommendations for the airbrush itself such as needle size and the like?
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 00:42
|
|
|
Dr. Garbanzo posted:I’m thinking my next step in the hobby will be getting an airbrush after having another set of decals eaten by tamiyas clear spray from a can. The first two light coats didn’t affect them at all but the third one crinkled the decals which doesn’t look real flash on a race car that’s fully decaled. .3mm dual-action, gravity feed is the recommendation for a general purpose airbrush, but you might consider larger needle sizes if you mostly paint 1/24 cars and other relatively large subjects. Certain manufacturers are cheaper in certain regions too, so thats another thing to consider. Badger is pretty cheap in the states, but more expensive in Europe. The inverse is true for Harder & Steenbeck. I'd avoid the Iwata Neo line entirely. Any of the Japanese airbrush brands, like Iwata, Mr Hobby/GSI Creos, and Tamiya should be more than enough for this hobby, though the later two are much less expensive than Iwata (They're all made in the same factory, apparently).
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 01:02
|
|
|
Symetrique posted:.3mm dual-action, gravity feed is the recommendation for a general purpose airbrush, but you might consider larger needle sizes if you mostly paint 1/24 cars and other relatively large subjects. I’m in Australia so pretty much any airbrush that isn’t a smallish Paasche or sparmax gets pretty expensive fairly quickly. I was thinking of a .5 needle might be too large but I generally do 1/24th cars so it might be a good option.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 01:13
|
|
|
Dr. Garbanzo posted:I’m in Australia so pretty much any airbrush that isn’t a smallish Paasche or sparmax gets pretty expensive fairly quickly. I was thinking of a .5 needle might be too large but I generally do 1/24th cars so it might be a good option. Have you ever ordered from a Japanese hobby site? I'm not sure how customs and shipping would affect things, but it might be a good idea to check HLJ or 1999/Hobbysearch.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 01:19
|
|
|
I'm just saying, but if anybody needs something from Europe, I'm okay to have it shipped to my office and then I could FedEx back to you anywhere in the world from my company's FedEx account (we have a rather large yearly volume so quite a good discount). You'd have to pay for the shipping of course but that'd probably be cheaper? I doubt Europe will be cheaper than anywhere else in the world but who knows.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 10:34
|
|
|
At the rate I ruined airbrushes when I was figuring it out, I was quite happy with the price of the Chinese jobbies you can find on amazon. Gosheer and the like.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 12:43
|
|
|
The cheapest one that didn’t look terrible was a hseng one which is a Iwata clone of some description. It comes with three different sized paint cups as well as three different sized needles which I figure might work for a bit till I decide to invest in something better.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 12:53
|
|
|
It may also be worth seeing who has parts available locally. I've had to replace needles etc a couple of times and it's really nice to just go to the store and be back in business an hour later rather than wait around, which is why I went with Badger. If nobody carries parts locally then this isn't a consideration.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 15:15
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 28, 2024 09:12 |
|
|
Still working on my P-51. I decided to go with a Tuskegee Airmen paint scheme over the raw aluminum. I don't believe they ever flew K models, but hey. Honestly the reason I got this kit was the engine and gun bay details, so I'm definately leaving it open. I'd love to do a little hanger diorama later for it.  The fit continues to be trash, getting the wings together was an affair of pinching the gently caress out of glued seams while watching youtube videos. I do like how all the flight surfaces are able to be set to whatever angle you want, even the trim tabs are seperate parts. Still some additional paint to do, a yellow stripe along the wings and propellor tips.  You can see how the gun bays don't even line up with the panels in the wings. They're so far off you can see past them into the wing where there was just no detail. So I cut a few extra bits of sprue and glued them in for wing ribs, it ended up pretty passable.
|
|
#
?
Jan 23, 2019 21:38
|
|