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I finished my Maloof style pub table. I need to take some better pictures of it. 42" tall, 35" diameter top.
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Jan 24, 2019 16:53
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mds2 posted:I finished my Maloof style pub table. I need to take some better pictures of it. 42" tall, 35" diameter top. Looks great. What's the wood / finish?
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Jan 24, 2019 17:30
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Any of you own / ever use an old Craftsman jointer? There's a Craftsman 103 model nearby that looks decent from pics https://providence.craigslist.org/tls/d/lincoln-36-joiner-craftmans/6801883665.html Also there's typically a good 113 up in the listings every few weeks not too far away and replacement blades for those are under $20. I was just curious if anyone has / uses one and if they would recommend to stay far away or if they are fairly decent. I don't mind if they are a bit fussy to set up, I don't plan on daily or heavy use. I've got my 113 table saw up and running and even with the homemade fence I cocked up for it it's operating quite nicely with a new blade, belt and pulleys and microjig splitter. Hoping maybe one of these older jointers might be a similar case.
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Jan 24, 2019 17:59
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That Works posted:Any of you own / ever use an old Craftsman jointer? And don’t worry, all jointers are more than a bit fussy to set up.
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Jan 24, 2019 18:09
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I don’t know anything about craftsman jointers specifically, but thats pretty short for a jointer. The infeed table especially looks like it’s a foot long. It depends on what scale work you want to do-it may not matter if you just do small stuff- but the length of the tables on a jointer has a whole lot to do with how well it can straighten stock. That being said, it’s prety cheap and may be perfect for a first jointer. Thanks. Out of curiosity, about how long of a piece would a jointer like that be able to flatten properly? So far I've been doing mine with a jointer hand plane and winding sticks on one side then taking it to the machine planer but hey that gets a bit slow and I am not all that great at getting it "just right" without taking too much crap off of the board. E: also is this something one could feasibly build infeed/outfeed tables onto or is that just a futile effort? That Works fucked around with this message at 18:20 on Jan 24, 2019 |
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Jan 24, 2019 18:18
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That Works posted:Looks great. Solid walnut with BLO, shellac and a couple coats of poly on the table top.
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Jan 24, 2019 18:58
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The infeed table is the limiting factor for straightening stuff-I would say 2 to maybe 3x the length of the infeed table is probably a decent guess/rule of thumb for how long a board it will straighten. You could theoretically make table extensions, but I think it would be difficult in practice. Jointers are very picky about setup and only do what they’re supposed to do well if the tables are perfectly flat and parallel with each other across the length and width. If you just want to roughly face join stuff before running it through the planer you could probably do it, but if you were looking to make nice sprung glue joints I think your table extensions would probably work against you if they weren’t just perfect. The infeed table has to be able to move up and down too which complicates things as well. All that being said, if you’re face joining stuff by hand a $150 jointer, even if it isn’t perfect, is going to save you a ton of time.
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Jan 24, 2019 19:00
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:The infeed table is the limiting factor for straightening stuff-I would say 2 to maybe 3x the length of the infeed table is probably a decent guess/rule of thumb for how long a board it will straighten. Thank you for putting things in some relative perspective. Makes it easier to decide if it's worth it.
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Jan 24, 2019 19:05
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:A lot of people collect Stanley planes and it really drives up the prices on eBay etc. I’ve had good luck with old used Sargent planes and a lot of times you can get them much cheaper than Stanley. Yeah that's what I was thinking, but I'll key an eye out for different brands. Looking to spend south of $50 for a first plane so I guess the general consensus is keep your eyes peeled for an older one and skip the newer manufacture stuff?
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Jan 24, 2019 19:07
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That Works posted:Any of you own / ever use an old Craftsman jointer? Those old joiners were pretty ok. Check the knives for dings and maybe bring a piece of wood and see if he'll let you do a trial run.
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Jan 24, 2019 19:08
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Bob Mundon posted:Yeah that's what I was thinking, but I'll key an eye out for different brands. Looking to spend south of $50 for a first plane so I guess the general consensus is keep your eyes peeled for an older one and skip the newer manufacture stuff? Pre- Civil War, you say? https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/tls/d/oklahoma-city-carpenter-tools/6772610430.html Or how about a Rabbbbettt, doc? https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/tls/d/macomb-stanley-no-50-rabbiting-wood/6784222092.html
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Jan 24, 2019 19:11
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I got a couple early to mid 20th century Union planes that seem to be of equivalent quality to the old Stanleys, but a much less well-known brand.
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Jan 25, 2019 00:49
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Leperflesh posted:I got a couple early to mid 20th century Union planes that seem to be of equivalent quality to the old Stanleys, but a much less well-known brand. I was given a Union Jack plane as a gift for officiating a wedding. It’s is one of my favorites. They are heavy duty versions of the Stanley Bedrock. Fantastic planes. Stanley bought out Union and closed them down. Edit: 
mds2 fucked around with this message at 19:21 on Jan 25, 2019 |
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Jan 25, 2019 00:52
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r00tn00b posted:So I went on my weekly antique shop romp looking for old blacksmithing tools and I found these two hand planars for sale, 8 and 4 dollars and figured it would be silly not to grab them at such a price. How much work (considering I have a ameture metal shop at my disposal for my knife making and blacksmithing) would it be to refurbish these guys to working condition? it looks like they might have sat on a wet surface for a while. Antique hand tool restoration is wonderfully satisfying and an excellent hobby. Once you get into practice, it becomes almost routine and you get a sort of production line mentality. Here's a good channel for interesting old implement restoration, and the video is plane-specific. He's much quicker than mere mortals, however! Plane restoration is addictive and if you get into it a habit can easily develop. Old tools are everywhere and, if you learn what to look for, you'll always have a wellspring of old rusty poo poo to refurbish. My latest is a $5 Bailey 5 from the old days before they merged with Stanley (iirc Stanley made blades, Bailey made tools), and it turned out pretty cool despite being in absolutely dismal shape with rust, pitting, and painted handles. You have to be careful about the blades, though, like mentioned earlier-- they do best with either a low-rpm, sharpening-specific grinder or hand-sharpening to avoid distempering. (Super sorry for huge and lovely phone post images.)   Old tools are super cool and good. Mr. Mambold posted:Pre- Civil War, you say? https://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/tls/d/oklahoma-city-carpenter-tools/6772610430.html loving WHAT Where did their dead grandpa get a Kikkoman bucket Pissed Ape Sexist fucked around with this message at 22:24 on Jan 25, 2019 |
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Jan 25, 2019 21:22
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Pissed Ape Sexist posted:Antique hand tool restoration is wonderfully satisfying and an excellent hobby. Once you get into practice, it becomes almost routine and you get a sort of production line mentality. Here's a good channel for interesting old implement restoration, and the video is plane-specific. He's much quicker than mere mortals, however! Man I must really not know where to look. I’ve stopped at antique stores, second hand stores etc, and I’ve come up completely dry. I would love to find a couple of old planes and fix them up.
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Jan 25, 2019 23:31
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Pissed Ape Sexist posted:loving WHAT Restaurant supply store. The one here has several different liquid condiments in bucket form, along with 3 foot long spaghetti noodles and entire skinned frozen goats.
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Jan 25, 2019 23:57
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Falco posted:Man I must really not know where to look. I’ve stopped at antique stores, second hand stores etc, and I’ve come up completely dry. I would love to find a couple of old planes and fix them up. Plus Ebay seems to suggest $70 when you include shipping is the low end for a decent bench plane....
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Jan 26, 2019 03:43
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Blindeye posted:Plus Ebay seems to suggest $70 when you include shipping is the low end for a decent bench plane.... Looks and a good pedigree are neat, but any ugly old plane from an antique store can be just fine and dandy for actual work if you tune it. Wherever you find it, all that matters is a flat sole, a sharp iron, and a properly adjusted chip breaker. Planes are the fussiest possible things to tune but once you get them right they sing in your hand and it's really pleasurable. It definitely takes some time, though, to find solid ones and get them to a usable state. (And don't get me started on saws, holy poo poo.)
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Jan 26, 2019 05:43
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I just learned something new and miraculous today. Turns out some googling would have told me this, but it was news to me. I’ve never loved shellac as a finish entirely because it is a pain to sand-clogs any kind of paper in an instant even if it’s dried for weeks. I was sanding down some thick shellac I’d gooped on to fill grain and getting frustrated when I decided to try paint thinner instead of water as lube with 320 SC wet/dry paper. Game changer. Suddenly it stands beatifully-no clogging at all and leveled the whole thing out waaaay faster with just one piece of paper. Now I’m gonna have to try it on lacquer too-shouldn’t hurt it once it’s cured a bit.
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Jan 26, 2019 18:09
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Isn't that basically what a French polish is? Sanding with alcohol and shellac to relevel, grain fill, etc?
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Jan 26, 2019 19:41
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MetaJew posted:Isn't that basically what a French polish is? Sanding with alcohol and shellac to relevel, grain fill, etc?
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Jan 26, 2019 23:52
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Cool!
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Jan 27, 2019 01:02
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Well a saw finally got me. Resawing some cherry and hand slipped on the piece of scrap push stick. Thumb went into the blade about 1/8". 3 stiches in the tip of my thumb  I'm lucky it missed the fingernail.
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Jan 27, 2019 02:55
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JEEVES420 posted:Well a saw finally got me. Resawing some cherry and hand slipped on the piece of scrap push stick. Thumb went into the blade about 1/8". 3 stiches in the tip of my thumb Glad it wasn't worse. I always took/take those near misses as "paying dues, now leave me be, Accident Deity."
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Jan 27, 2019 03:09
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A couple of times now I've had my router table's bit start to climb out of the collet in the middle of a cut. That is, the bit actually changes position in the collet. Scary, to say the least. It's happened once with a 1/4" spiral bit, once with a 3/8" dovetail bit. I'm cranking the collet down as tight as I can manage. Is this the collet going bad or do I need to ditch the entire router? Or is this some "oh yeah, you need to do this bit of routine maintenance" thing that I'm not aware of?
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Jan 27, 2019 04:26
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:A couple of times now I've had my router table's bit start to climb out of the collet in the middle of a cut. That is, the bit actually changes position in the collet. Scary, to say the least. It's happened once with a 1/4" spiral bit, once with a 3/8" dovetail bit. I'm cranking the collet down as tight as I can manage. Is this the collet going bad or do I need to ditch the entire router? Or is this some "oh yeah, you need to do this bit of routine maintenance" thing that I'm not aware of? Make sure the collet and bit are clean and smooth. If there's any rust, clean it up with 600 grit-ish sandpaper. Also bit needs to not be inserted all the way, and definitely not inserted too little. You usually want between 1/8-1/4" between the cutter and the collet. Also if it's a 1/2" collet with an old school 1/4" reducer adapter, it's just sort of destined to be junk. Most modern routers have a separate nut and collet for 1/2 and 1/4. Really cheap bits can be undersize sometimes too.
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Jan 27, 2019 04:36
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JEEVES420 posted:Well a saw finally got me. Resawing some cherry and hand slipped on the piece of scrap push stick. Thumb went into the blade about 1/8". 3 stiches in the tip of my thumb
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Jan 27, 2019 05:19
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I only gave myself splinters doing this Give 'em the clamps
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Jan 27, 2019 05:38
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bandsaw; blade was kinda dull and I was putting more pressure than I probably should have on it. I made a stupid mistake and paid for it. I am glad it was after I got done teaching the wood shop 101 safety class this morning 
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Jan 27, 2019 07:13
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Huxley posted:What is it about woodworkers that make us build something beautiful, then go out of our way to point out to everyone the places we messed it up a little? I built a nice drawer insert for our kitchen with three wonderful dovetails, but I nearly tripped over myself pulling it out of the drawer to show my dad the one loose one. I’m no master builder, but I think it’s rooted in 2 places: 1) we long to point out where we’ve hosed up so as to recognize to others we are capable of doing it better, and this wasn’t “the best we can do”. 2) woodworking feels like a hobby that is very much about “learning” so it feels natural to kind of do post-mortems on your work...
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Jan 27, 2019 07:48
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Well hell. As I was assembling this door I thought to myself, "It should probably hinge from the right side so that you're not stuck between the fridge trying to use what will probably be a useless cabinet." Then I discovered that the "designer" who picked it out chose the "left hinge" door instead of the right so I can't change the configuration on the fly. I decide to go with it and see how bad it will be, and   Another trip to Ikea to try and exchange this expensive or at least tedious mistake. I really should've just chosen a deep corner cabinet like I have on the other side of the sink. 
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Jan 27, 2019 07:56
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After looking around for a first plane, eyeballing this guy. Look ok to you guys? https://www.ebay.com/itm/SARGENT-HERCULES-NO-1409-SMOOTH-PLANE-W-HERCULES-GOLDEN-CUTTER-/202505757785
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Jan 27, 2019 16:31
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Bob Mundon posted:After looking around for a first plane, eyeballing this guy. Look ok to you guys? For that matter, any thoughts on this absolute unit? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Wood-Working-Sargent-VBM-18-Long-x-2-7-8-Wood-Plane/312436859419?hash=item48beb0221b:g:C4cAAOSw~~5cRN8H
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Jan 27, 2019 16:59
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MetaJew posted:Well hell. As I was assembling this door I thought to myself, "It should probably hinge from the right side so that you're not stuck between the fridge trying to use what will probably be a useless cabinet." I tolja the fridge there would kill that corner...But, Noooooooooo...
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Jan 27, 2019 17:10
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Hypnolobster posted:Make sure the collet and bit are clean and smooth. If there's any rust, clean it up with 600 grit-ish sandpaper. Also bit needs to not be inserted all the way, and definitely not inserted too little. You usually want between 1/8-1/4" between the cutter and the collet. Also if it's a 1/2" collet with an old school 1/4" reducer adapter, it's just sort of destined to be junk. Most modern routers have a separate nut and collet for 1/2 and 1/4. Thanks for the advice. I knew about how to properly install bits, and this was a 1/2" collet. But I took it apart and there was a decent amount of rust and miscellaneous gunk (probably old sawdust) which came off when I attacked it with sandpaper and my dremel's wire wheel. I've run ~15 feet of wood through the router now and so far the bit's staying put. Fingers crossed, I guess.
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Jan 27, 2019 18:36
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Mr. Mambold posted:I tolja the fridge there would kill that corner...But, Noooooooooo... You were too late either way, hombre.
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Jan 27, 2019 20:46
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MetaJew posted:You were too late either way, hombre. I'd think about leaving the doors off, but you probably don't want to do that. Here's a thought- there's track hardware that will let the doors slide back into the cabinet, but you lose a couple inches on either side, and the hardware's expensive. I only used it on entertainment centers where they wanted the doors to slide out of the way from a big screen tv.
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Jan 27, 2019 22:48
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Mr. Mambold posted:I'd think about leaving the doors off, but you probably don't want to do that. Here's a thought- there's track hardware that will let the doors slide back into the cabinet, but you lose a couple inches on either side, and the hardware's expensive. I only used it on entertainment centers where they wanted the doors to slide out of the way from a big screen tv. I had thought about keeping the doors off. Maybe pull out the carousel and make it the feeding station for my cat. Heh. I think when the designer planned the kitchen, her model assumed I had a cabinet depth fridge... And I don't want to spend the money on that at the moment. I'm going to try to exchange the door today and see if the opposite side hinge fixes the problem, at least as a stop gap. Can you link me to that type of door hardware you mentioned? I had also thought something sort of like that could fix it but I don't know what my options are.
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Jan 27, 2019 23:01
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MetaJew posted:I had thought about keeping the doors off. Maybe pull out the carousel and make it the feeding station for my cat. Heh. Flipper door hardware or cabinet pocket door hardware are the keywords- it's tricky poo poo because you have to have vertical wooden braces also, but it's a good feeling when you get it right. https://www.cshardware.com/hardware/furniture-hardware/entertainment-center-flipper-door-hardware https://www.rockler.com/ez-pocket-door-system-pocket-door-slide
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Jan 27, 2019 23:12
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Mr. Mambold posted:Flipper door hardware or cabinet pocket door hardware are the keywords- it's tricky poo poo because you have to have vertical wooden braces also, but it's a good feeling when you get it right. Thanks! This looks like it might be a good, if  fix. I'll look into it if the opposite Hing doesn't fix my problem.It does seem more efficient for accessing the cabinet than an outswinging door. Ikea's cabinet hinge hardware is pretty nice Blum stuff. I wonder if they already sell something like this.
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Jan 27, 2019 23:50
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