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All I'm gonna say is you're gonna do way more work putting that kitchen together wrong than you would've by just doing it right. Your call tho.
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Jan 28, 2019 00:01
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Bob Mundon posted:After looking around for a first plane, eyeballing this guy. Look ok to you guys? Looks OK to me. Plastic knobs mean this was never a high-grade plane, though, but it's free shipping so I'd say $30 is about right. Wouldn't pay any more than that, though, and don't expect the quality of a vintage Stanley. Blindeye posted:For that matter, any thoughts on this absolute unit? No photo of the sole, and the rest of it looks very rusty. At a minimum I'd assume that iron is toast, and it'll be a lot of work to bring the body up to par as well. The price suggests it's being sold for spare parts or whatever and that's what I'd assume I'm paying for. e. add on the $20 shipping and that's a hard pass. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Jan 28, 2019 |
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Jan 28, 2019 00:54
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Javid posted:All I'm gonna say is you're gonna do way more work putting that kitchen together wrong than you would've by just doing it right. Your call tho. gently caress you, too?
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Jan 28, 2019 02:36
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My first project ever building sawhorses was going swimmingly....... until my drill battery died with the pilot bit all the way in which promptly snapped trying to wiggle out. Yay. Imaging having a few spare 1/8 bits is proooobably a good idea.
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Jan 28, 2019 02:41
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Bob Mundon posted:My first project ever building sawhorses was going swimmingly....... until my drill battery died with the pilot bit all the way in which promptly snapped trying to wiggle out. Yay. More like a spare battery. Also how do you break a drill bit in wood? I have done it in metal plenty but wood is softer than metal.
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Jan 28, 2019 03:07
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Need to, although wouldn't have helped me in this case. It stopped dead all the way in and didn't even have enough juice to get it to twist while pulling out. Snapped off from trying to wiggle it out (only a 1/8 bit but still). 20/20 hindsight would have been to unlock the bit from the drill, but wasn't expecting it to not take even a little wiggle in some 2x4s, barely anything and it just snapped. Oh well be back in action tomorrow.
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Jan 28, 2019 03:12
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JEEVES420 posted:More like a spare battery. I break the little bits predrilling for nails all the time. A knot, or even a small change in density can cause the bit to flex and break.
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Jan 28, 2019 03:27
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A couple of quick, blurry snaps of most of my good loot from the oakland museum white elephant sale today;  You can see most of the prices on the stickers. The blonde wooden corner-rounding plane on the bottom has no maker mark and seems kinda cheap, but I don't have another one like it, and it still has curls of wood on the edges of the blades, it's in perfect condition. It's odd that it has two blades, though. I'll take some better photos tomorrow when my phone isn't almost dead.
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Jan 28, 2019 03:29
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Stultus Maximus posted:I break the little bits predrilling for nails all the time. A knot, or even a small change in density can cause the bit to flex and break. Same. I just buy packs of quick-release 1/16th bits since a stern look can cause them to snap off. 1/8th is tougher but still brooks no foolishness.
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Jan 28, 2019 03:40
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Also learn to run the bit in and out of a hole as you work your way into the hole, to clear out the sawdust. Keeps the bit cooler and less likely to stick. So like, even with a softwood like pine, go in an inch, keep the bit moving in forward but pull it out of the hole, blow off dust, then back in for the next half inch, etc. With hardwoods or a knot, maybe just a half inch at a time. But yeah even doing that, 1/8 and smaller bits will break regularly when hand-drilling. Much longer-lasting in a drill press.
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Jan 28, 2019 03:56
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MetaJew posted:gently caress you, too? I just remembered another solution. Find a 3/4 pie cut lazy Susan with two shelves, redo the doors so they in set rather than overlay, and screw them to the shelves in the cut out.
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Jan 28, 2019 05:03
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Leperflesh posted:A couple of quick, blurry snaps of most of my good loot from the oakland museum white elephant sale today; Dang man those look like some phenomenal deals. What did you end up paying for the spokeshave? It looks like a Stanley 151. I went to a tool sale yesterday and most of the guys prices were pretty good, but he wanted $50 for a 151, which seemed really high. I did finally score a Bailey No 7 in great shape with a shock blade for $75.
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Jan 28, 2019 05:22
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I got the spokeshave for $20, and it is indeed a 151. It's all to benefit the museum, so they price things to sell. People line up outside the preview sale at like 5 AM (we got there at 8) for a 10AM opening and then go runnign in to grab the best stuff. A dude who got to the tools before us had a couple of even better planes for similar prices, but he hadn't spotted the spokeshave. There's thousands of pieces of furniture, tens of thousands of items of clothing, thousand of pieces of artwork, etc. Antique dealers compete to get in there and grab the best pieces. A lot of stuff is underpriced, a fair amount is priced about right, and then random items are overpriced too... the people doing the pricing are all elderly volunteers, some of them know their poo poo but the sheer volume is too high to spend time researching much and the aim is to clear things out to make room. It's all donated stuff, too. They've been doing it for like 50 years or something and I look forward to going every year. I always find some good poo poo. I'll have to go through everything in detail - it's kind of a madhouse, so you don't have a lot of time to look things over before you grab them, but at those prices it's hard to go wrong.
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Jan 28, 2019 07:11
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Mr. Mambold posted:I just remembered another solution. Find a 3/4 pie cut lazy Susan with two shelves, redo the doors so they in set rather than overlay, and screw them to the shelves in the cut out. Well this works well enough for me.    Just installed the final drawer. Now I just have to clean up and install trim... And the backsplash. Thanks for coming to my TED Talk. 
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Jan 28, 2019 08:58
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That's a good solution.
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Jan 28, 2019 13:56
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Speaking of beginner planes, handled the cheap Kobalt one at Lowe's and noticed the grip is pretty cramped for me, would that be the case with most No 4s? Should I look for a 4 1/2 instead? *Edit* Just looked at prices, yikes. Maybe not. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 14:17 on Jan 28, 2019 |
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Jan 28, 2019 14:11
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Swapped the hardware on this box for antiqued brass. Makes a world of difference.  
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Jan 28, 2019 17:25
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Leperflesh posted:I got the spokeshave for $20, and it is indeed a 151. Wow that sounds like a great opportunity for the community to pick up stuff that they want for some great deals. Nice scores, I'm excited to see more details as you dig into them and start using them.
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Jan 28, 2019 23:52
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Leperflesh posted:
I had one of those roundover planes. It's called a Slick Plane. I hated it, actually threw it away last week. The two blades are so you can set one deeper than the other to keep from taking too much off at once. All mine did was jam up because it has no chip-breakers and the whole thing is just a jank fest. I've got several hand planes, ranging from all-metal Stanleys to the old wedge-set ones and I can get them to sing. That thing just chewed poo poo up. Good luck!
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Jan 29, 2019 00:39
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Yeah I found it online pretty quickly, this one hasn't got the normal slickplane branding but it sure seems like that's what it is. Maybe it's just finicky with adjustments or only useful on softwood or something? Anyway it was $5, so if it winds up being a bust, not a big one.
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Jan 29, 2019 02:20
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Guy's dad makes him a woodworking bench that is too nice to work on.  Link to ~40 pictures https://imgur.com/r/woodworking/3L6GYAS (which have enough detail an various angles to possibly replicate it)
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Jan 29, 2019 20:36
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JEEVES420 posted:Swapped the hardware on this box for antiqued brass. Makes a world of difference. Agreed, beautiful box!
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Jan 30, 2019 01:31
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https://twitter.com/trkg12/status/1090443081382588417?s=21 I’ve been staring at this for a long time to figure out how it was made and what the hell it is. There’s a lot of details like the lettering that are too small to be CNC’d, I think, but also too deep to effectively laser. I’m also pretty sure the background behind the WWE logo is stained oak? Which like, what the gently caress
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Jan 30, 2019 17:06
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It is done with a laser. I have cut through quarter inch Padauk, and engrave walnut all the time. Its all about speed and power. Slow it down and crank the power and it will cut deeper.
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Jan 30, 2019 17:48
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I guess I’m always nervous about fires and stuff when I’m lasering, engraving like a quarter inch deep on oak seems like you’d just have a fire going immediately Unless, I suppose, it was done in several passes?
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Jan 30, 2019 18:20
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You run more a risk of smoking the lens then starting a fire. Good CO2 air flow prevents fires but is also why one of the rules at the space is you can't leave a machine running unattended. If there is a flame up just hit it with some CO2 to put it out.
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Jan 30, 2019 19:16
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I've been messing around with this giant patternmaker's lathe and trying to figure out the best shape tool to use. I started with the end of an old file just ground on two perpendicular faces like a scraper, and it works okay. I don't think I really need a wide flat surface since the tool is held so firmly-just using the corner of the scraper seems to be easier on the cutter, less chatter, and allows a more aggressive cut. Probably a good place to rig something up with carbide inserts. The tailstock moves perpendicularly to the ways and rotates, which combined with the tool holder lets you do tapers quite precisely. All in all, it's much slower than hand turning, but I can see it being very useful for sizing dowels precisely which is a pain. I've got a turn a bunch of long, thin stair spindles with a taper on them and try it on the taper. They tend to chatter alot, and since I can move the tool along the ways on handed (just turn a crank) I can use the other to steady the work-potentially much faster than setting up a steady rest (which aren't all that steady anyway). This thing also spins insanely fast and very slowly, but only has 4 speed settings. It's 3-phase so I'm looking into some sort of alternative speed control and a switch that will let me reverse it for better sanding. It seems to cut with alot less chatter at max speed- I guess the wood just gets cut so fast it doesn't bounce around. Usually faster seems to mean more chatter/whipping around, but I've never had a lathe that went this fast. The whole thing is cast iron and solid as a rock.   My very very high tech tooling.  The tapering really shows up when there's still a flat part on the work. I think patternmakers had to put very precise tapers on the patterns they made so they could be removed from foundry molds without screwing up the molds-hence the weird swingy tailstock. I once saw a patternmaker's jointer where the infeed table could be made to tilt slightly left or right for the same reason. Two videos which may or may not work: https://imgur.com/T8a086B https://imgur.com/wi9axdD
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Jan 31, 2019 02:10
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That's cool and very interesting. It looks like the perfect candidate for a VFD to control the speed and direction.
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Jan 31, 2019 03:11
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This has probably been talked about in the thread before so if there is a link to the discussion I would appreciate it, or a new discussion now. I am looking to install a dust collection system into a shop and want to know what you guys think are the best ones for the job for mid range costs?
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Jan 31, 2019 21:16
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Meow Meow Meow posted:That's cool and very interesting. It looks like the perfect candidate for a VFD to control the speed and direction. r00tn00b posted:This has probably been talked about in the thread before so if there is a link to the discussion I would appreciate it, or a new discussion now. I am looking to install a dust collection system into a shop and want to know what you guys think are the best ones for the job for mid range costs? Harbor Freight makes a very serviceable DC for like $200 (we have one with a cyclone and it keeps up with a big industrial 24” planer but that’s all it does), but changing bags is kind of a pain. Planning ahead definitely helps, but I know of a mom and pop cabinet shop that has their entire dust collection system made of black corrugated 6” landscape drain pipe duct taped together running off a not that great collector and it seems to do just fine.
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Feb 1, 2019 05:08
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Harbor Freight makes a very serviceable DC for like $200 (we have one with a cyclone and it keeps up with a big industrial 24” planer but that’s all it does), but changing bags is kind of a pain. Planning ahead definitely helps, but I know of a mom and pop cabinet shop that has their entire dust collection system made of black corrugated 6” landscape drain pipe duct taped together running off a not that great collector and it seems to do just fine. I don't have one, but I had read a few years ago about people buying the HF dust collector, throwing out the filter bag and replacing it with one of those fancy filters that's about 100% the cost of the DC. Then, the article I read, used a Thien baffle with a metal trash can to collect chips.
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Feb 1, 2019 08:25
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Passed up a $10 Stanley block plane at an estate sale yesterday, was looking for a No 4 but in retrospect on an idiocy scale 1-10 is that an 11? Also just read something about card scrapers, how has their existence eluded me my entire life? It seems impossible something that looks like a piece of sheet metal does what it can do, does anyone here use one?
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Feb 2, 2019 19:26
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Bob Mundon posted:Passed up a $10 Stanley block plane at an estate sale yesterday, was looking for a No 4 but in retrospect on an idiocy scale 1-10 is that an 11? its a smart move if you aren't really into restoring old tools or it wasn't in decent condition in the first place. Old planes aren't that rare, if you look out for them you'll see more. This wasn't a once in the lifetime miss Card scrapers are great if you're worried about tear out, they don't take off much material
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Feb 2, 2019 19:34
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I use a card scraper all the time, amazing little tool. I also have a Stanley 81 which is essentially a card scraper on steroids.
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Feb 2, 2019 19:35
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Scrapers are wonderful tools, but take a bit of practice to learn to sharpen and they will wear your hands out and turn your thumbs purple if you use one for a while. Stew Mac makes these things: https://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Types_of_Tools/Scrapers/StewMac_Ultimate_Scraper.html and they are phenomenal and sharpen really quickly just on the grinder. Because they’re thick and stiff, they don’t wear your hands out as much either. I cut up old wide bandsaw blades and grind the teeth off and grind them into all sorts of funny little shapes for custom scrapers for mouldings etc. It’s good steel and they’re usually serviceably sharp with the burr right off the grinder and they are free. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 20:12 on Feb 2, 2019 |
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Feb 2, 2019 20:10
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Card scrapers are supposed to be flexible, though, I thought? I've started using a set and I do like them a lot. If you're doing hand planing and stuff they're great for cleaning up the last few streaks from planing without taking off much wood and without losing that super smooth finish from the plane like you would with sandpaper.
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Feb 2, 2019 22:08
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I think they're mostly flexible so you can bend them and make them into a curve so the corners don't scratch and you can just work small areas with them. The stewmac one is rounded on one side and the corners aren't sharp anyway, so it mostly replicates the same effect while saving your poor thumbs. Because it's rigid, it doesn't bounce over bumps as much and seems to help level stuff out a bit. I still grab a flexible card scraper sometimes too. They're just right sometimes and great for stripping old finishes off of flat surfaces. I was thinking a cheap big box store hand saw blade might make good stock to make odd shaped scrapers from, but with impulse hardened teeth are they still decent steel?
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Feb 3, 2019 00:51
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^^^ Ahh, my thumbs always go purple. Also the bandsaw blade is a great tip, I used one to make a scratch stock for beading and it worked real slick.
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Feb 3, 2019 01:24
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My parents' 30-year-old Japanese Maple died, so I took a hunk of trunk home to play with. Cut some sections with my bandsaw into short/fat boards, more or less 2x4s. The base of the trunk is going to require the chainsaw though; it's far too wide to fit my bandsaw. The wood doesn't appear to be at all sappy, and it looks pretty nice and clear. But cutting wet wood got little chunks of sawdust all over the bearings and of course the blade. The blade I'm not worried about, it's old and due for replacement anyway. Maybe I can make some scrapers out of it. Any advice on cleaning off the bearings though?
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Feb 3, 2019 02:10
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Without knowing the first place to start is this a decent choice? Also has a thicker model for a few bucks more and there are multi packs that are different shapes too. Seems too much like black magic that I could probably just cut up a cheap hand saw. DFM Tool Works Blue Cabinet Scraper MADE IN USA - QTY 1 EA - 0.032" x 2.5" x 5" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079BH3W7B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YyKvCbWGXKFA7
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Feb 3, 2019 02:49
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