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Feenix posted:Can you link? I'm searching Home Depot with no luck, but I need a good reliable hand saw. https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Marples-Double-Edged-9-5-in-Fine-Finish-Cut-Pull-Saw/1000236029
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Feb 24, 2019 03:19
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https://m.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Marples-Double-Edged-9-5-in-Fine-Finish-Cut-Pull-Saw/1000236029 They do tend to wander a bit on long cuts, but that’s the nature of the beast with pull saws in my experience. With a $20 saw you don’t have to get mad if you hit a nail or something.
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Feb 24, 2019 03:20
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DevNull posted:So I am thinking of getting a small table top planer like Dewalt makes. https://www.dewalt.com/products/pow...s-planer/dw735x I run that exact planer in production, it's great. Anything specific you need to know about it that isn't in their docs, ask away.
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Feb 24, 2019 03:28
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Huxley posted:https://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Marples-Double-Edged-9-5-in-Fine-Finish-Cut-Pull-Saw/1000236029 Kaiser Schnitzel posted:https://m.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Marples-Double-Edged-9-5-in-Fine-Finish-Cut-Pull-Saw/1000236029 Thanks to you both! 
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Feb 24, 2019 04:04
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DevNull posted:Speaking of Hardwick's in Seattle, I guess they put this out 30 minutes before I bought it. Nice man! How much did it end up setting you back? I landed at the SCC wood center sale today, and it was filled with all kinds of fun woodworking goodies. There were a bunch of obscure wooden hand planes along with 100's of Stanley's. Feenix posted:
This ended up great man! Hopefully it brings some good money for your kids fundraiser. ColdPie posted:Had a good day in the shop today. I squared up the stock for the breadboard ends, then got the top of the tabletop most of the way ready for finishing, so I wouldn't have to try to awkwardly plane it with the cross-grain breadboard ends on. Last step will be scraping down the remaining plane tracks. Knowing I was going to have to scrape about 25 sq ft of tabletop, I bought a No 80 scraper at a tool sale a while back. Killing time waiting for the bus to go home, I sharpened it up today and tested it on some scrap. This thing is so nice compared to a regular card scraper. Some firm downward pressure and the plane tracks go away with tiny shavings. Great tool. So good to hear how well the No. 80 works. I was able to snag one for $10 today, but I need to pick up a blade for it. I'm super excited to give it a try. Like I mentioned above, I made it to a used tool sale in Seattle today. I was blown away with how much was being sold and loads of it was going for fantastic prices. The sale ranged from boxes of flea market quality finds, to Lie Nielsen tools. It was a blast though, and I wish I would have take a few photos. Here's what I ended up with for about $115. The planes are in great shape, the cabinet scraper does need a blade, but otherwise in great shape, and a little Ashley Isles gouge and a Veritas honing guide. 
Falco fucked around with this message at 08:11 on Feb 24, 2019 |
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Feb 24, 2019 08:09
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Falco posted:Nice man! How much did it end up setting you back? I landed at the SCC wood center sale today, and it was filled with all kinds of fun woodworking goodies. There were a bunch of obscure wooden hand planes along with 100's of Stanley's. It was $60, which seems a decent enough price for how good of shape it is in. The blade needs cleaned up a bit, but they restored the body pretty well. If I really like using it, I might try to find a different blade to use and keep this one to look pretty. Javid posted:I run that exact planer in production, it's great. Anything specific you need to know about it that isn't in their docs, ask away. I was looking more for suggestions like "Don't buy that, it is crap. Buy this instead." It sounds like it would be a good one to use though. I want something small enough that I can stick it on the corner of my shop and not have to worry about space. I just bough a Dewalt jobsite table saw for the same reason. DevNull fucked around with this message at 09:22 on Feb 24, 2019 |
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Feb 24, 2019 09:19
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That’s really looking good. No 80s are real thumbsavers. This is heresy, but if you’re lazy and hate using stripper like me, they’re great for stripping finishes off flat surfaces. Does anyone make a decent repro? They’re so dead simple you’d think there would be and old ones had gotten kind of expensive last time I looked. Lee Valley sells a clone for $70: http://www.leevalley.com/us/Wood/page.aspx?cat=1,310&p=46266 Along with a number of other scrapers in various forms. Falco posted:So good to hear how well the No. 80 works. I was able to snag one for $10 today, but I need to pick up a blade for it. I'm super excited to give it a try. ColdPie fucked around with this message at 15:07 on Feb 24, 2019 |
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Feb 24, 2019 15:02
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DevNull posted:I was looking more for suggestions like "Don't buy that, it is crap. Buy this instead." It sounds like it would be a good one to use though. I want something small enough that I can stick it on the corner of my shop and not have to worry about space. I just bough a Dewalt jobsite table saw for the same reason. Yeah it's a solid piece of kit. Jobsite saws, on the other hand, are wet poo poo for any kind of serious woodwork, imo.
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Feb 24, 2019 16:04
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Plywood finishing question- Is it critical to get the same number of finishing coats on both sides of a plywood panel if only one will be seen? Basically, is plywood more stable than solid wood when it comes to warping? Waterlox is expensive, this panel is big, and I would rather not hit the back side with 3+ coats. Also, Second question. I have used waterlox a bunch of times. Usually on mahogany or cherry. I like the look of the finish but I don't like the feel. It always ends up a bit squeaky. Suggestions or another product to try? Sam maloof poly/oil then oil/wax? asmasm fucked around with this message at 20:23 on Feb 24, 2019 |
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Feb 24, 2019 20:16
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Man, domino cutter exponsive.
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Feb 24, 2019 20:16
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asmasm posted:Plywood finishing question- Is it critical to get the same number of finishing coats on both sides of a plywood panel if only one will be seen? Basically, is plywood more stable than solid wood when it comes to warping? Waterlox is expensive, this panel is big, and I would rather not hit the back side with 3+ coats. Yes plywood is massively more stable, that's kind of the whole deal with it.
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Feb 24, 2019 20:26
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asmasm posted:Plywood finishing question- Is it critical to get the same number of finishing coats on both sides of a plywood panel if only one will be seen? Basically, is plywood more stable than solid wood when it comes to warping? Waterlox is expensive, this panel is big, and I would rather not hit the back side with 3+ coats. Do you rub the waterlox out? It makes a huge difference on most any finish, even oiled stuff. The grey/ultrafine or maroon/fine scotch brite pads are good for that or 0000 steel wool. A good quality paste wax can help with the feel of a finish too. I wouldn't put oil over poly or poly/oil-put poly over oil if you're going to use both.
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Feb 24, 2019 21:33
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ColdPie posted:
That’s not a bad price at all. Too bad I just missed free shipping. How do you find sharpening the blade? From what I’ve read you sharpen it like a plane blade at 45 degrees and then turn the edge or it seems create a burr and leave it.
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Feb 24, 2019 23:39
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What do you guys use as a marking knife? Wishing I could just find single bevel utility knife blades but that doesn't appear to be a thing.
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Feb 25, 2019 01:00
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Bob Mundon posted:What do you guys use as a marking knife? Wishing I could just find single bevel utility knife blades but that doesn't appear to be a thing. Olfa 5019 snap knife and the Pfeil small marking knife (which is sort of overpriced, but it's on Amazon and it's well designed). The Olfa knife is probably my most used. It's double bevel, but that really doesn't make much of a difference with the thickness of the blade. It's harder to mark wood to wood, but for marking off a square it's fantastic.
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Feb 25, 2019 02:12
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Bob Mundon posted:What do you guys use as a marking knife? Wishing I could just find single bevel utility knife blades but that doesn't appear to be a thing. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/socket-awl-mini-size?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw9ev-O7V4AIVIbCzCh0SJg94EAQYBCABEgJTOPD_BwE
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Feb 25, 2019 03:50
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https://www.chefknivestogo.com/okeyakogatana.html I use this knife for utility and marking. It keeps a really nice edge for fairly long provided you hone it and don’t tip it by using it to pry things. I will probably never need to replace it and just sharpen it with everything else.
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Feb 25, 2019 04:13
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I just use a utility knife. Am I a bad person? 
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Feb 25, 2019 04:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I just use a utility knife. Am I a bad person?
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Feb 25, 2019 13:13
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OK, I have a dumb question. When I glue up two panels and end up with a little ridge down the middle where I've done a good-but-not-perfect job of aligning my boards, I've always been able to sand it down to being ALMOST imperceptible. But I want to step up to actual invisible. After I line up the grain and match the boards and do my glueup, what is the best way to make the board dead flat? Better sanding? A smoothing plane set up correctly for it (just a little bit of blade and a very tight throat, I think?). Or is this exactly the job of a cabinet scraper?
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Feb 25, 2019 17:59
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A hand plane or belt sander would be the best way to flatten the glued up panel if it won’t fit through your planer. To prevent any misalignment, biscuits help a lot. Sandwiching the panel between straight, flat 2x2 cauls (put packing tape on the side touching the glue) clamped perpendicularly to the glue joint will help keep the panel as a whole flat. This is just from the boards being misaligned right? Sometimes yellow/PVA glue can swell the area right around the joint temporarily, and then creep back out of the joint after you’ve surfaced it, creating a small but feelable little bump.
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Feb 25, 2019 18:38
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I'm gluing up the presurfaced pine and poplar from HD, since I haven't invested in a proper lunchbox planer yet. And yeah, I just mean when I align the boards but still end up with a visible seam (independent of the grain aligning or whatever) because of a 32nd of lift somewhere on the seam between clamps. I've always been able to sand that seam down to nearly perfect but never dead perfect. It's always driven me crazy. I guess the actual answer is lunchbox planer and start buying proper wood from the lumber yard. Or learn to love my seams. Huxley fucked around with this message at 18:48 on Feb 25, 2019 |
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Feb 25, 2019 18:46
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Huxley posted:I'm gluing up the presurfaced pine and poplar from HD, since I haven't invested in a proper lunchbox planer yet. And yeah, I just mean when I align the boards but still end up with a visible seam (independent of the grain aligning or whatever) because of a 32nd of lift somewhere on the seam between clamps. I've always been able to sand that seam down to nearly perfect but never dead perfect. It's always driven me crazy. At a certain point though you'll be gluing up something wider than your planer can handle, I usually level my glue joints with a No.80 cabinet scraper followed by a card scraper.
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Feb 25, 2019 19:53
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Does anyone have some wisdom to share on freestyle cabinet / drawer design? I built this basic frame out of 3/4" ply to hold a drill press and it works well for that. It's 20" deep 30" tall and 12" wide at the outside edges and is sitting on 2" lockable casters. It's a bit top heavy but with some equipment and parts I plan to store in there when put in make it balance out well.  I want to build some drawers on slides for it with full cover false fronts that will be flush with the exterior trim hiding all the plywood frame. The drawers are going to be built out of 1/2" ply with 1/4" ply bottoms sitting in dadoes with the whole thing pocket screwed together. I haven't decided what to make the false fronts out of yet. What I'd like to know is, are there any real rules for drawer height vs false front height to consider? And are there any minimum distances I should leave between drawers above and below as well? Any sort of standard or formalized convention for this?
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Feb 25, 2019 20:33
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You can make drawers that are 1” high with a false front that’s 30” high if you wanted to, really. It’s a great way to hide garbage cans in a kitchen
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Feb 25, 2019 20:48
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Anybody deal with the bearing screws backing out on router bits? I have one flush trim bit that keeps doing this poo poo, no matter how well I tighten it. I'm about to gob it with blue loctite, but I'm not sure that's up to the vibration on the thing, so I'm curious if anybody has any better ideas. Like >1 work day has gone to poo poo because this god drat screw flew off into orbit and had to be re-ordered, I hate this loving thing e: it's one like this, I legit forget the brand but it is red and has two straight flutes https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Bearing-Flush-Shank-42-114/dp/B0000225YC I'm using it to make copies of a pattern for a couple complex and/or finicky parts we make a lot of, but it absolutely sucks to just cut through a board with, is there a better bit for this purpose?
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Feb 25, 2019 20:51
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Javid posted:Anybody deal with the bearing screws backing out on router bits? I have one flush trim bit that keeps doing this poo poo, no matter how well I tighten it. I'm about to gob it with blue loctite, but I'm not sure that's up to the vibration on the thing, so I'm curious if anybody has any better ideas. Does it have a lockwasher or summat like that? I think I've had that happen a time or 2 with an old set that had switchable cutters. That sounds like the ideal place they should have reverse threaded, right?
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Feb 25, 2019 20:57
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No, it's just bearing - flat washer - screw. I guess I could just throw red on it, it's not like I ever need or want to take that screw off again.
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Feb 25, 2019 20:59
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Huxley posted:OK, I have a dumb question. When I glue up two panels and end up with a little ridge down the middle where I've done a good-but-not-perfect job of aligning my boards, I've always been able to sand it down to being ALMOST imperceptible. But I want to step up to actual invisible. If you're not using a biscuit joiner for that, you've got time in your glue-up to smack boards level when you've got your clamps half tight. Especially in cooler weather. Obviously, if you're using soft pine, you may need a piece of scrap between your smacker and the panel board. I used a deadblow when I had one, a hammer and scrap when I didn't. And a scraper is a good way to level out, as others have mentioned....or if it has a lot of misalignment to make up, use a plane with just a bit of reveal, yeah....
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Feb 25, 2019 21:03
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Javid posted:No, it's just bearing - flat washer - screw. I would too, but also a lock washer.
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Feb 25, 2019 21:03
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That cabinet makes me nervous. It looks so perilously skinny, but I’m sure it’s actually fine. That Works posted:What I'd like to know is, are there any real rules for drawer height vs false front height to consider? And are there any minimum distances I should leave between drawers above and below as well? Any sort of standard or formalized convention for this?
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Feb 25, 2019 21:13
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Don't bother with a lock washer on anything that small (or at all really) just loctite it on.
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Feb 25, 2019 21:14
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Javid posted:Anybody deal with the bearing screws backing out on router bits? I have one flush trim bit that keeps doing this poo poo, no matter how well I tighten it. I'm about to gob it with blue loctite, but I'm not sure that's up to the vibration on the thing, so I'm curious if anybody has any better ideas. https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/collections/flush-trim-spiral-bits/products/rft5200 They should save you a lot of time (and therefore money) in cleanup sanding since they cut with little to no tear out vs. a straight pattern bit. Usually with pattern work you want to rough cut stuff to size on a band/jigsaw first and then use the pattern but to cut the last 1/8-1/4” and make sure all the parts are identical, but the spiral ones will do a much better job cutting full width than the straight ones in any case. Sockser posted:You can make drawers that are 1” high with a false front that’s 30” high if you wanted to, really. It’s a great way to hide garbage cans in a kitchen
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Feb 25, 2019 21:25
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That cabinet makes me nervous. It looks so perilously skinny, but I’m sure it’s actually fine. Thanks! I am thinking plywood false front rimmed in some leftover maple scrap or something. It makes me nervous as well. And like I mentioned unweighted it can definitely tip over. After I put in 25 lbs into it that was no longer an issue. Also, it will be standing in only 2 places, both of which either exist between a workbench and a cabinet bolted into a wall, or between a huge heavy caster cabinet and the wall. So fortunately, side to side tip is mitigated. Once I get it in use if it keeps bugging me or is still unsteady I might just bolt a wider plate and beefier casters on the bottom or something. Thanks for the tips! I'm going with side mounted slides.
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Feb 25, 2019 21:50
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Lockwashers that aren’t nordlocks are basically useless in 99% of applications. Blue lock tire should be fine and allow you to sharpen the bit later. Those two flute straight bits do suck for cutting through a board. I like the full carbide bits running as fast as they can if you can keep the feed rate high.
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Feb 25, 2019 22:16
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I cheaped out on this project and bought cherry veneer plywood from home depot instead of my local yard. I didn't need a full 4x8 sheet (only need a 30" square) and it saves me a long highway drive with poorly secured sheet goods in my half ton truck. The packaging was clearly not good enough, just a carboard box it banged around in, no foam corners. Also the way the veneer is flaking off is not confidence inspiring. Fortunately I can cut away all of the bad parts and still have enough left: asmasm fucked around with this message at 17:24 on Feb 26, 2019 |
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Feb 26, 2019 17:17
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I'm slowly catching up with the thread. Go back and read 546, it's super encouraging if you're a newer woodworker or lurker.  My buddy in CO is taking woodworking classes just got a job at a brewery that also has a woodworking element. I'm very excited for him and stupid jealous. He's got a year or 2 before he's done but I'm determined to get him a working set of hand-tools. He's inspiring me to get back to practicing woodworking. I slapped together a stand for some headphones and I've been reminded of how sweet a feeling it is to create again. It's a simple design. The wood comes from the wooden scaffolds used by power companies to run wire. They left a bunch in a friend's yard and there it sat for years until he offered it to me. The original stock (I'll see if I can get a pic of the other piece) looks like gray, cracked, beat up poo poo, but cleaned up super nicely. Here's a couple of the odd cracks I might need to address. https://i.imgur.com/3fYsnqC.jpg https://i.imgur.com/gNun7r9.jpg This isn't really a priority though.  I'm 1 year into owning a house and all my furniture is slap-dash. Does anyone know how I can finish this without using chemicals that would damage the leather headphone pads? I was also considering cutting some strips of felt and gluing that where the headphones contact the wood. I have a white, boring white corporate desk at work and these stand out like sore thumbs in the best way possible.  Dickhead Shill: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3883086 Here's my fishing attempt for the contents of my future care package. Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 17:58 on Feb 26, 2019 |
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Feb 26, 2019 17:47
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asmasm posted:cherry veneer plywood
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Feb 26, 2019 17:49
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The cherry veneer stuff my lumberyard sells is similarly veneer on MDF. Just don't get it wet and it's fine. I guess actual hardwood-veneer plywood is available somewhere, but it's probably a lot more expensive.
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Feb 26, 2019 17:55
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I know Harbor Freight isn't exactly a go to around here, but is there any reason to avoid something as simple as a rasp from them? https://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-rasp-set-33865.html At half the price of the 4 way rasps I'm seeing seems like it might be worth a risk.
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Feb 27, 2019 00:33
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