|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Aw I love it! About the most stable wood in service I know of. Did you get a hand full of splinters? It will make some nasty ones. I thought it would look nice as splines for a cherry picture frame took me forever to trim them up and it smelled awful
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 06:31
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 20:52 |
|
|
Harry Potter on Ice posted:What do you mean it isn't fun? Like you aren't getting good cuts or you don't feel comfortable doing it? No it worked great, was really happy about that. The blade that came with the saw was binding bad but once I put in another no issues. Just referring the time it took me to reclamp everything for a new cut I could have just about finished with a table or bandsaw. Everyone mentions here that cheap table saws ate best avoided, what about cheaper bandsaws? Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 13:26 on Mar 4, 2019 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 13:23
|
|
|
Get the biggest you can and a new blade.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 13:42
|
|
|
cakesmith handyman posted:Get the biggest you can and a new blade. Would a sub $200 or even $300 bandsaw leave me with nothing but heartbreak and despair? That is assuming i don't need to cut larger than it's capacity.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 15:06
|
|
|
Finished installing the Kreg router base for my table, turned out pretty good.   
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 15:16
|
|
|
Bob Mundon posted:Would a sub $200 or even $300 bandsaw leave me with nothing but heartbreak and despair? That is assuming i don't need to cut larger than it's capacity. If you want to rip boards do not buy a bandsaw, buy a table saw. You are better off spending 300-500 on a table saw.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 16:21
|
|
|
You can rip on a bandsaw just fine. The cut edges may need some cleanup with a hand plane, and the comparatively small table makes it trickier to hold a straight line, but table saws are not obligatory for ripping duty. That said, I don't have a feel for how useful the $100-300 bandsaws are.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 16:35
|
|
|
Holdfasts are black magic. Mine arrived, I drilled a hole, and then spent about 10 minutes holding down various scrap pieces and giggling like an idiot at how well it works.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 16:38
|
|
|
Bandsaws do rip fine (and much more safely than table saws) but unless you find a real deal on craigslist a $200 bandsaw is going to just make you sad, where a $200 table saw will do an alright job.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 16:39
|
|
|
I'm in the same boat re bandsaw. I need to occasionally resaw some 6" lumber but maybe less than 5 times a year. Not sure if that means I need to get a $600+ saw or just get a cheaper old one with a new blade and suffer through a few minimal resaws a year on maple / cherry. Thoughts?
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 16:42
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:You can rip on a bandsaw just fine. The cut edges may need some cleanup with a hand plane, and the comparatively small table makes it trickier to hold a straight line, but table saws are not obligatory for ripping duty. They can rip a board but not ideal and a 100-300 one is going to be poo poo at doing it. I would use a circular saw and straight edge over a bandsaw every day. That being said, stay away from 100-300 bandsaws. They are smaller, more finicky, and harder to keep a blade lined up on. For most hobbyist with a garage shop I'd break it down as: "I have a circular saw I want to replace/upgrade" - Buy table saw "I have a jigsaw I want to replace/upgrade" - Buy bandsaw
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 16:48
|
|
|
JEEVES420 posted:They can rip a board but not ideal and a 100-300 one is going to be poo poo at doing it. I would use a circular saw and straight edge over a bandsaw every day. Exactly what I needed to know. Only bandsaws (and table saws for that matter) I have experience with were the ones back in shop class. Something like this horrible if I'm fully expecting not to have perfectly clean cuts? SKIL 3410-02 10-Inch Table Saw with Folding Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003HIWQZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R9uFCbN87NG0P
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 17:17
|
|
|
That Works posted:I'm in the same boat re bandsaw. I need to occasionally resaw some 6" lumber but maybe less than 5 times a year. Not sure if that means I need to get a $600+ saw or just get a cheaper old one with a new blade and suffer through a few minimal resaws a year on maple / cherry. 18” is when bandsaws really start to have some power and rip/resaw capacity. Blade choice makes a huuuuge difference on bandsaws. I use a 2TPI hook blade which is very coarse and aggressive and cuts very quickly. The surface finish isn’t great and it takes a bit larger kerf, but anything that comes off the bandsaw is getting surfaced again anyway. These guys weld up great blades in any size for cheap with a huge variety, and they know their stuff. https://www.woodcraftbands.com/ z0331 posted:Holdfasts are black magic. Mine arrived, I drilled a hole, and then spent about 10 minutes holding down various scrap pieces and giggling like an idiot at how well it works.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 17:25
|
|
|
Even my butt-terrible (inherited) little 9-inch band saw is just a ton of fun to use. If I had to choose between replacing my bad $200 table saw or my bad $200 band saw, I'd probably go for the band saw just out of how much more I like using it. (What I'd actually do is keep both and replace the also-inherited benchtop router "table" that scares the piss out of me.) Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I can pick up my giant 250#+ roubo bench by one gramercy holdfast and it just makes me smile. I don’t know how I ever used to live without them. I've posted my little saw bench a few times here, and putting dog holes in it was worth it even if all it did was let me carry it around with holdfasts.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 17:35
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:These are great and reasonably common/inexpensive used http://vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?id=16117 I've been trolling craigslist around here for a couple months for various machinery, only thing under $500 has been 14" or less bandsaws. I don't think I've ever seen an 18" one for sale unless it was in the >$1000 range. I guess I am wondering if I can, with the right blade, get an older 14" saw to handle resawing 6" wide maple a couple times a year. Like, I am just making some furniture for the house. It'd probably be worth my while to pay and bring it out to be resawn vs buying a >$500 bandsaw if that will just always for sure be incapable of carrying it out. Either that or resaw either side on the table saw and knock out the last middle inch or two with a handsaw or an older bandsaw?
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 18:40
|
|
|
That Works posted:I've been trolling craigslist around here for a couple months for various machinery, only thing under $500 has been 14" or less bandsaws. I don't think I've ever seen an 18" one for sale unless it was in the >$1000 range. I guess I am wondering if I can, with the right blade, get an older 14" saw to handle resawing 6" wide maple a couple times a year. Like, I am just making some furniture for the house. It'd probably be worth my while to pay and bring it out to be resawn vs buying a >$500 bandsaw if that will just always for sure be incapable of carrying it out. Either that or resaw either side on the table saw and knock out the last middle inch or two with a handsaw or an older bandsaw? I have the Grizzly G055 14" bandsaw and have used it for this kind of duty. The stock saw has a resaw depth of IIRC 6.5" or 7" and could probably handle that in maple if you took it slowly with a 1/2" resawing blade. I got the riser kit (~doubles the resaw capacity) and a 3/4" blade and was able to resaw some green Japanese Maple with it; I don't recall the exact thickness because it was a double-live-edge piece, but at max probably around 12" wide. I've also resawn some fairly wide white oak that was fully dry, with no problems. The surface isn't remotely perfect, like Kaiser Schnitzel says, but you should expect to clean up surfaces after resawing anyway.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 18:49
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:I have the Grizzly G055 14" bandsaw and have used it for this kind of duty. The stock saw has a resaw depth of IIRC 6.5" or 7" and could probably handle that in maple if you took it slowly with a 1/2" resawing blade. I got the riser kit (~doubles the resaw capacity) and a 3/4" blade and was able to resaw some green Japanese Maple with it; I don't recall the exact thickness because it was a double-live-edge piece, but at max probably around 12" wide. I've also resawn some fairly wide white oak that was fully dry, with no problems. Thanks. And yeah I was totally expecting having to plane down the cut face after resawing etc.
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 18:51
|
|
|
I did a project workshop with my wife! She's usually really timid around tools but having someone there as an instructor helped ease her fears. We made a couple of planters from some cutoffs from their shop. I made mine out of maple, hers walnut. They look quite nice, but more importantly, I've talked her into letting me purchase a small bandsaw. Can the little Grizzly saw be beat? I'm not trying to resaw anything, my hopes would be in making jigs or cutting up something like a bandsaw box. Does anyone have this little guy? I don't really trust online reviews for tools at all (or see the irony in asking here). https://www.grizzly.com/products/Gr...-caArj-EALw_wcB
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 18:55
|
|
|
That Works posted:I've been trolling craigslist around here for a couple months for various machinery, only thing under $500 has been 14" or less bandsaws. I don't think I've ever seen an 18" one for sale unless it was in the >$1000 range. I guess I am wondering if I can, with the right blade, get an older 14" saw to handle resawing 6" wide maple a couple times a year. Like, I am just making some furniture for the house. It'd probably be worth my while to pay and bring it out to be resawn vs buying a >$500 bandsaw if that will just always for sure be incapable of carrying it out. Either that or resaw either side on the table saw and knock out the last middle inch or two with a handsaw or an older bandsaw? I saw a Rigid 14" one for 250 on CL, in good shape after reading your previous post. You'll hardly ever see the big, production ones for cheap there. But, a friend of mine used to lurk tool auctions at the giant local AF base and walk away with insane deals, albeit 3 phase. Like a 36" bandsaw for, hell I forget, 300 or 500. Absurd tool. THEY'RE YOUR TAX DOLLARS, RECLAIM THEM!
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 19:11
|
|
|
At that price if you have the space a 36" and 3 phase converter would be well worth it.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 19:32
|
|
|
That Works posted:I've been trolling craigslist around here for a couple months for various machinery, only thing under $500 has been 14" or less bandsaws. I don't think I've ever seen an 18" one for sale unless it was in the >$1000 range. I guess I am wondering if I can, with the right blade, get an older 14" saw to handle resawing 6" wide maple a couple times a year. Like, I am just making some furniture for the house. It'd probably be worth my while to pay and bring it out to be resawn vs buying a >$500 bandsaw if that will just always for sure be incapable of carrying it out. Either that or resaw either side on the table saw and knock out the last middle inch or two with a handsaw or an older bandsaw? Are you the one in the Seattle area? I can find ~4-500 14" band saws in MI every other month or so.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 19:37
|
|
|
Super Waffle posted:Finished installing the Kreg router base for my table, turned out pretty good. Awesome! Is that in your table saw wing? I've been dragging my feet on cutting the hole in my table saw extension for months now. I'm trying to decide on the orientation. Orienting the long side of the router plate parallel to the table saw fence to build a router fence around that is the typical setup. But my table saw is pushed up against the wall 90% of the time, so I was thinking of rotating it so it could be used from the front of the table saw, and install T-track to add a fence for the router plate. Any thoughts so far on yours? And what are your thoughts on those leveling corners vs. recessing the table top with some extra material to push the leveling screws against?
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 19:48
|
|
|
I'm also looking for a bandsaw, similarly for occasional light resawing + all the other smaller stuff you can do with one. Is this a good deal? https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/tls/d/oakland-delta-bandsaw/6832739753.html 14" 3/4hp Delta 28-276 with stand, $400. e. This is a worrying review: http://www.thewoodnerd.com/reviews/delta_bandsaw_28-276.html Suggests this saw was only a little over $400 new, back in 2009. Surprising to me, since I thought Delta was a pretty good brand (my Delta table saw is great). e2. yeaaah, more googling shows this saw had a serious vibration problem for a lot of customers. Eventually they supposedly fixed it but if this is of the wrong vintage it'll need a new wheel and possibly other work. I think I'll pass. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 20:14 on Mar 4, 2019 |
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 19:49
|
|
Cannon_Fodder posted:Are you the one in the Seattle area? Rhode Island. Sadly basement shop ceiling might prevent a giant >20" surplus bandsaw
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 20:40
|
|
|
That Works posted:Rhode Island. Sadly basement shop ceiling might prevent a giant >20" surplus bandsaw Sounds like you're in the market for a 20" bandsaw AND a sawzall.
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 21:05
|
|
|
Falco posted:Awesome! Is that in your table saw wing? I've been dragging my feet on cutting the hole in my table saw extension for months now. I'm trying to decide on the orientation. Orienting the long side of the router plate parallel to the table saw fence to build a router fence around that is the typical setup. But my table saw is pushed up against the wall 90% of the time, so I was thinking of rotating it so it could be used from the front of the table saw, and install T-track to add a fence for the router plate. Any thoughts so far on yours? Thanks! Yes thats my table saw wing, I have the Delta 36-725 (Lowes Delta). I went with that orientation because it seemed to make the most sense for my tiny shop and how I used the router. It really doesn't matter as you're always going to want to feed wood into the bit from the same direction. I went with the levelers because my table is pretty thin and I didn't have confidence in being able to route a precise depth ledge. Also I had some gift card money so they were basically free 
|
|
#
?
Mar 4, 2019 22:34
|
|
Cannon_Fodder posted:Sounds like you're in the market for a 20" bandsaw AND a sawzall. 
|
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 00:17
|
|
|
As far as bandsaw stuff, this book is great and your local public library probably has it. https://www.amazon.com/Bandsaw-Book-Lonnie-Bird/dp/1561582891 Lots of good stuff in there about what to look for in a saw and how to set it up properly. Like jointers, bandsaws take a bit more tuning (especially with the guides) than a tablesaw or planer or something. That Works posted:Rhode Island. Sadly basement shop ceiling might prevent a giant >20" surplus bandsaw
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 00:32
|
|
|
Randomly stumbled on this dude making a pretty gnarly guitar from scratch using 99.9% hand tools only: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=40CZe6bo9C8
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 01:46
|
|
|
Leperflesh posted:Randomly stumbled on this dude making a pretty gnarly guitar from scratch using 99.9% hand tools only: Man, I absolutely empathize with how he threw the saw down after finishing those long rips. If there's one job that power tools make vastly easier, it's long cuts. Question about that video, and projects in general -- if it were me, I'd've gotten maybe 10-15 minutes in and then gotten way too scared of screwing up the work I'd already done and basically gotten paralyzed on the project. How do y'all overcome that? I only ever seem to manage to finish my projects once I get so sick of them lying around half-completed that I don't care if I screw up any more, I just want them done. But that's not exactly a good strategy.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 03:06
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:
This is seriously how I am on far too many projects. Yet I was able to completely tear down and rehab a 1960’s Delta Bandsaw and it’s the absolute tits now. Funny what we have confidence on and what we don’t.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 04:15
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Man, I absolutely empathize with how he threw the saw down after finishing those long rips. If there's one job that power tools make vastly easier, it's long cuts. Double check your measurements, do everything you know how so you dont gently caress up, but realise that even if you do gently caress up its perfectly fine and everyone fucks up somewhere on a project. There is a reason a lot of woodworkers tell you to accentuate your mistakes and turn them into a feature.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 06:12
|
|
|
In some niches, small flaws add value, as they indicate it was created by a human and not a cnc router or something. Gunstock checkering is one example.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 06:40
|
|
|
Javid posted:In some niches, small flaws add value, as they indicate it was created by a human and not a cnc router or something. Gunstock checkering is one example. I call them "maker's mark"
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 06:51
|
|
|
TooMuchAbstraction posted:Man, I absolutely empathize with how he threw the saw down after finishing those long rips. If there's one job that power tools make vastly easier, it's long cuts. That obviously wasn't his first or second rodeo. Dude freehanded his sketches and knew widths of laminates he wanted. He's gonna have very well earned arthritis in his hands one day. 45 years ago a buddy of mine went to a school in, I think, Phoenix to learn how to build instruments, esp guitars, iirc. He paid for the 6 month tuition from his agricultural profits. Built a very nice acoustic, an electric, and a mini guitar for his little son. Came back to their mobile home one day and thieves had broken in and gotten all the guitars. He never built another instrument. He moved to Portland 7 or 8 years ago because his son and son's family are there.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 17:47
|
|
|
On the topic of having the confidence to finish things, I've found it useful to pick something small and quick out of your to-do pile and using it as an opportunity to practice techniques you feel like you want to branch out into on larger jobs. My house is full over ludicrously overbuilt and overfinished drawer organizers and baby-doll furniture because I said, "I would really like to build a new dresser for our bedroom, but yikes at doing [whatever task] for the first time on something that big and expensive." Having little people helps this, because someone always wants a bassinet for a babydoll or whatever. But building a 1/4-sized bed before you tackle a full-sized one, or building something with one drawer before attempting a chest of drawers, can help you over the hump of feeling like you bit off more than you can chew.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 17:57
|
|
|
See also: shop furniture
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 18:02
|
|
|
Learn to call things good enough and rather than go into perfection paralysis mode instead try to focus on learning what didnt go perfect in your mind and be comfortable knowing in the future you wont make the same mistakes. Make marks not excuses
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 18:26
|
|
|
Perfect is pretty, but done is beautiful. Pretty much the only thing you can’t fix is cutting a board too short, and even then you can actually stretch a board. Learning to do repairs is invaluable, and learning to hide your mistakes teaches you lots of good skills. Glue the wrong board in the middle of a tabletop and it’s got a big knot showing? Time to patch in a dutchman, and guess what, you just learned to do inlay work. Boards different colors when you start finishing? Time to learn a little more about staining, toning and finishing. You’re gonna screw stuff up-everyone screws stuff up occasionally-so learn to fix it and move on. In the process, you’ll probably quit screwing up so much.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 18:38
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 29, 2024 20:52 |
|
|
Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Perfect is pretty, but done is beautiful. I'm getting my rear end kicked trying to do a simple cherry box. I feel I'm gaining skills and learning to use a plane much better than before. I'm still horrified of loving up my stock, but I already did (tore out some odd grain in the face and off the end while trying to square a side  ). I think I'm learning but man, does my stomach drop whenever I gently caress something up.
|
|
#
?
Mar 5, 2019 18:56
|
|