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Bob Mundon posted:Sharpening my plane today I noticed I was leaving some pretty bad toolmarks after, there's a few Knicks I just can't hone out. Is it possible for there to be some grit on my stone or probably just me sharpening badly? I think I'll have polished it out but then it just pops back up once it hits the wood. So after getting a nice edge and taking out all the nicks I'm back at it......and then it gets more. Is that just pine knots really taking it to my blade or what?
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Mar 10, 2019 00:31
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Hypnolobster posted:The Bosch does come with more accessories but they all feel like *~Baby's first router table~*. This was exactly the feeling I was getting, so I went and picked up the Kreg along with a set of featherboards. Haven't actually used it, but the build quality/etc seemed very nice while assembling. The predrilled holes for the miter track were hilariously off, and it was missing a screw, though.
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Mar 10, 2019 01:45
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:It occurred to me that I could use my new belt sander to help sharpen tools (or at any rate to grind away defects), so I looked up some videos...is there a reason why in this video the guy points the chisel blade opposing the direction of the belt sander? I'd be worried about it somehow catching the belt and cutting it apart; I feel like you'd want the first thing the belt encounters to be the backside of the chisel. But I'm not very experienced so it's entirely possible I'm missing something. I'm pretty sure this is so you sharpen and not round the edge. If you did it the other way you'd create a double bevel. You want to get rid of any tiny burrs on the push (the way hes doing it) not the pull. Any time I've hand sharpened a tool I've gone against the edge. Also be careful to not let it get too hot with a grinder, if it starts changing color you're going to lose the temper. Someone else who actually knows can tear this apart but that is my limited experience
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Mar 10, 2019 03:12
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I'm pretty sure this is so you sharpen and not round the edge. If you did it the other way you'd create a double bevel. You want to get rid of any tiny burrs on the push (the way hes doing it) not the pull. Any time I've hand sharpened a tool I've gone against the edge. Also be careful to not let it get too hot with a grinder, if it starts changing color you're going to lose the temper. Someone else who actually knows can tear this apart but that is my limited experience OK, thanks for the info. I knew to keep the chisel cool, but hadn't realized the importance of push motions for grinding.
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Mar 10, 2019 19:18
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Bob Mundon posted:So after getting a nice edge and taking out all the nicks I'm back at it......and then it gets more. Is that just pine knots really taking it to my blade or what? They can do. That leading edge is very thin and quite fragile. Are you slamming into the knots with any great force? I would re-sharpen, then try again but with a very low depth of cut, and run the plane at an angle so you can sorta slice the knots instead of coming head-on. If you are already doing all that... not sure. What plane are you using? What kind of blade do you have in your plane? What angle of bevel and do you put on? Card scrapers are a good alternative for this kind of situation if you don’t have to take a whole lot off.
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Mar 10, 2019 21:25
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Mr. Mambold posted:Go get this one. It's an Atlas, they were built like a brick shithouse, it'll probably outlast you.  it... is. Check out my thiccccc new shop addition. $150   It came with 6 gouges, Tookraft branded, long handles, some look recently sharpened, some not. I have no idea if these are a good brand, or if these 6 will cover me for basic spindle carving? Mostly just wanna turn some bench / table legs and drawer pulls etc. Nothing else planned with a lathe for a long long time. Honestly I have a lot of reading up to do before I even set this thing up. Given that, does anyone have a particularly good book / website / guide etc for someone completely new to wood turning?    Some other stuff that came with it. As we were packing it up, the guy asked me if I wanted this old belt sander. He did say that he had a hard time finding any belts that fit, but that it ran and would work fine if I could find any belts. This fucker weighs like 30+ lbs or something. It's a tank. Any thoughts on this? It was free, I figured I could just give it to my local antique store if nothing else.  Falco posted:Holy hell that is a steal! Please post pictures when you get it. I ended up with a 1960's Delta for $200, that I ended up pouring in another $300 in parts to get it in great working condition. To be fair some of that would have been fine without replacing, but I figured while I was in there, I would knock it out. It's even nicer than I thought, Delta 28-243. Came with a linkbelt, coolblocks already installed and about 10 blades, several of which are unopened in their boxes and the opened ones look like minimal use. The guy was retired and his house just got bought so was moving in a hurry out to California and selling off all his stuff in a bit of a rush. Super cool guy. $175  I can't tell if these are Urethane tire upgrades or not. Its very cold so they are quite solid, but could just be colder rubber? I have no idea and don't know enough about this to tell.    The whole thing was impressively pristine, just a little sawdust and surface rust that I'll take care of shortly. I bought the bandsaw book recommended itt the other day so once that arrives I'll give it a going over and tuning after getting my head around that. I'm pretty happy, all of this in like 24h for less than $350. I was budgeting $400 max for a bandsaw alone. Only thing left I really planned on getting for the shop was a jointer and even that is so far not strictly necessary.
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Mar 10, 2019 22:53
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drat, that's one hell of a haul. Congrats! I feel like a jointer is a tool that you only really feel the benefits of if you're regularly working with large/thick boards. Otherwise, you can joint edges pretty quickly by hand, maybe with help from a router table with a straight bit. Given how big jointers are, I personally have felt basically no interest in getting one.
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Mar 10, 2019 23:27
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Granite Octopus posted:They can do. That leading edge is very thin and quite fragile. Are you slamming into the knots with any great force? I would re-sharpen, then try again but with a very low depth of cut, and run the plane at an angle so you can sorta slice the knots instead of coming head-on. Resharpening seemed to do the trick, will just have to be careful around those knots. Using a Sargent #4 and sharpening to 30 degrees, but I hadn't established the bevel until after it copied the first time.
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Mar 10, 2019 23:52
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Someone mentioned getting the aldi tablesaw. My local has them for $100 now. Are they worth picking up? I don’t have the room for a full size one so this might be ok if it’s not incredibly dangerous?
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Mar 11, 2019 01:31
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Where does Aldi sell tools? We have one locally but it's only a regular grocery store.
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Mar 11, 2019 01:41
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I decided my tapering jig was terrible so I made a proper one. Much stiffer, adjustable, and repeatable.
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Mar 11, 2019 01:59
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Bob Mundon posted:Where does Aldi sell tools? We have one locally but it's only a regular grocery store. I’m in Australia but I know they do the same kind of thing in the U.K. Every week they sell specialty items. Some times the same stuff comes back around once or twice a year. E.g this week it’s a bunch of mattresses and gardening stuff. Some stuff is actually pretty good. Paul sellers likes their chisels for the price but I’ve never seen them for sale here, and used ones are easy enough to find. Table saws are thin on the ground though. It’s either these light and cheap contractor saws for $300, used triton workcentres for $600-$1000, or imported American/U.K. brands for $1500+. Hardly anything on the used market.
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Mar 11, 2019 02:10
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:drat, that's one hell of a haul. Congrats! Face jointing is where jointers excel, because like you said, doing the edges is pretty easy and can be handled a number of ways. Jointing a face of a board is quite a bit more difficult and takes a lot more effort and skill.
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Mar 11, 2019 02:49
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That Works posted:
Noice, noice, very noice score. Those tires look exactly like the urethane upgrades I put on my old-timer Delta; I'd be confident that's what yours are. The belt sander is an old worm drive, they used to go for 350 or so back-in-the-day bucks. And I'm pretty sure the belts are standard. Make sure it's got oil in it.
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Mar 11, 2019 04:17
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Double post- Here's an oldie 6" Delta joiner my son-in-law got from an estate sale for basically free. He bargained them down from 125 to 100, paid, then found out contrary to what the sales guys said, that the motor didn't turn. It hummed. So he got his refund, less the tax. I talked him into moseying around for an $8 tool to cover, and the sales guy came over and said haul it off, we didn't know the motor didn't work, so now we can't sell it. It's HEAVY! And I'm thinking it's just got resin in the switch (check out that old switch) or sawdust in the contacts. Everything else about it is solid and works like it should. The badge is from a place in Dallas off Commerce, I think. Should have taken a pic of that.  I picked up this nice little score, a couple of Bailey planes. # 6 and what I'll call a Longboy. Had to have those tin shears, you can't find those anymore. The guy even had an old Yankee ratchet like the ones His Divine Shadow bought last week, and damned if I didn't pinch my finger in it tuning it up with WD-40 just like I used to 45 years ago. Brought a tear of...n-n-nostalgia, yeah. 
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Mar 11, 2019 04:23
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Mr. Mambold posted:Double post-
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Mar 11, 2019 04:33
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Mr. Mambold posted:Noice, noice, very noice score. Those tires look exactly like the urethane upgrades I put on my old-timer Delta; I'd be confident that's what yours are. The belt sander is an old worm drive, they used to go for 350 or so back-in-the-day bucks. And I'm pretty sure the belts are standard. Make sure it's got oil in it. Oh sweet, I was hoping that about the tires seeing the other upgrades already there. That's awesome. Good to know about the worm drive. I need to try to find a manual. Any idea about type of / how to oil one of those?
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Mar 11, 2019 12:50
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We finally had nice weather this weekend (at least for Saturday) so I got a chance to move some of my projects to the next step. The one that I'm most excited for is this: This will eventually be a bass guitar. I completely stole the Gibson SG body style because I love it. I got a gorgeous 3" thick slice of cherry from my father in law. I cut it roughly to size, filled the crack with epoxy (with a metallic blue flake in it). The lumber yard I go to sliced it in half for me, so I have 2 blanks. Hopefully I don't make any mistakes on the first one, but if I do it's nice to know I have a backup. I threw a new blade on my grandfather's band saw and it did a spectacular job at cutting the curves. I realize guitars aren't end grain for a reason. I'm considering routing out the back and putting something to reinforce the neck when I mount it (maybe something to highlight it), but for now it's looking pretty good. Assuming it ends up looking at least halfway decent, I'll post it here when I'm done. I'm planning on just doing a natural finish.
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Mar 11, 2019 14:44
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Y'know what might look nice? If you sliced that in half and laminated it with another board running long grain. That'd add strength and a banding effect on the edges. I guess it'd be a little tricky to cut it cleanly at this stage though. In any event, good luck.
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Mar 11, 2019 14:54
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Granite Octopus posted:Someone mentioned getting the aldi tablesaw. My local has them for $100 now. Are they worth picking up? I don’t have the room for a full size one so this might be ok if it’s not incredibly dangerous? I haven't had a chance to use it yet, life got in the way, but I unboxed it and it has a riving knife and a blade guard. The fence is loose towards the far end, and the mitre gauge has a bit of slop to it, but it's $100.
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Mar 11, 2019 15:55
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AFewBricksShy posted:We finally had nice weather this weekend (at least for Saturday) so I got a chance to move some of my projects to the next step. The one that I'm most excited for is this: I think you could mitigated alot of these problems by using the cherry cookie as basically just decoration. Have a long grain ‘stick’ that runs through the whole thing-just a super long neck basically that runs through to the tailpiece. Have everything important attach to that through oversized holes drilled through the cherry so you have a stable, long grain axis to work off of. Route out the back of the cherry to accommodate it, and then screw/bolt the cherry to the stick. More support overall like a board glued long grain through the cookie would keep it from splitting, but you’re also going to run into more wood movement problems there. Old end grain/ostershell veneer is famous for not staying put for exactly this reason. It’s a really neat idea though and would look great and I’m probably worrying too much about the technical crap. People do make electric basses out of hockey sticks, after all.
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Mar 11, 2019 16:03
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think you could mitigated alot of these problems by using the cherry cookie as basically just decoration. Have a long grain ‘stick’ that runs through the whole thing-just a super long neck basically that runs through to the tailpiece. Have everything important attach to that through oversized holes drilled through the cherry so you have a stable, long grain axis to work off of. Route out the back of the cherry to accommodate it, and then screw/bolt the cherry to the stick. More support overall like a board glued long grain through the cookie would keep it from splitting, but you’re also going to run into more wood movement problems there. Old end grain/ostershell veneer is famous for not staying put for exactly this reason. The neck width is about 2.5". As I have the 2 blanks, I was considering doing the lesser of the 2 with just the neck attached (no electronics), string it up and see what happens over the course of a month or so. If I do the neck reinforcement, I was going to take some sapele cutoffs that I have (I'm fairly certain it's the hardest wood I currently have in my shop). Cut them to 1 1/4" wide strips, flip them 90 degrees and glue them up so I have a 1 1/4" thick by 2.5"x ~18" edge grain insert I'd rout out the channel for the back of that, which would leave me approximately 1/4" of cherry on the top. That would be glued in to place. The neck and the bridge would be attached to the insert, the cherry would still hold all of the electronics.  edit: Actually looking at this again after I uploaded it, since I'd have access to the inside edge of the cherry (where the countersunk screw is) I could probably do some sort of steel peg or something to further reinforce the meeting of the cherry and sapele, while simultaneously not having to have any visible screws. Edit2: Unless someone tells me this is an awful idea, I'm probably going to end up doing this anyway, because it will make wiring the pickups easier as well. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 17:16 on Mar 11, 2019 |
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Mar 11, 2019 16:43
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I like ToomuchAbstraction's suggestion for it. I can see that looking really nice and should help mitigate some of your other problems as described above I'd imagine.
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Mar 11, 2019 17:30
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
The Japanese used to do something similar to that and called it a "neck-through" construction. Look it up on ebay, I think you'll get some idea. 1 piece of like 42" maple stock or whatever from headstock to base and glued 2 wings to it. They're rather sought-after, supposedly superior tone. Don't even rout the cherry just split 2 wings away from the 2 1/4" wide or whatever the neck was going to be and ditch that, glue the wings to the long grain neck, and carve away. edit- here's one with the natural grain showing so you get the idea- https://www.ebay.com/itm/HSH-GUITAR-neck-thru-double-horn-body-solid-wood-with-inlay/183171076337?hash=item2aa5d8d0f1:g:QBYAAOSwvmNbGdPg
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Mar 11, 2019 17:52
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Mr. Mambold posted:The Japanese used to do something similar to that and called it a "neck-through" construction. Look it up on ebay, I think you'll get some idea. 1 piece of like 42" maple stock or whatever from headstock to base and glued 2 wings to it. They're rather sought-after, supposedly superior tone. Don't even rout the cherry just split 2 wings away from the 2 1/4" wide or whatever the neck was going to be and ditch that, glue the wings to the long grain neck, and carve away. I love that look and that idea, but I'm nowhere near good enough to do my own neck just yet. I'm getting one from Warmoth, at least for this project.
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Mar 11, 2019 18:05
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AFewBricksShy posted:I love that look and that idea, but I'm nowhere near good enough to do my own neck just yet. I'm getting one from Warmoth, at least for this project. I'd lose that entire stub then, and half-lap it into the body like regular bolt-on necks are done. That should eliminate the end-grain stress. Pretty sure that if you look at the Warmoth or other kit bodies, they don't have a stub like that either.
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Mar 11, 2019 18:14
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Mr. Mambold posted:I'd lose that entire stub then, and half-lap it into the body like regular bolt-on necks are done. That should eliminate the end-grain stress. Pretty sure that if you look at the Warmoth or other kit bodies, they don't have a stub like that either. I'm not sure what you mean by stub. If you're talking about the one on the fretboard, that's coming from their site.  http://www.warmoth.com/Bass/Necks/faq2.aspx Basically I'd be making the pocket into the sapele, which I think is the part you're saying to half-lap. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 18:23 on Mar 11, 2019 |
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Mar 11, 2019 18:19
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AFewBricksShy posted:Rain away, the criticism is part of why I posted it here, I knew I'd get some good info. And necks are easy! Get a spokeshave and a rasp and go to town. It’s the fretboards that are hard-I’ve always bought them for the banjos I’ve made. I guess with a bass they’re usually one and the same though? That Works posted:I like ToomuchAbstraction's suggestion for it. I can see that looking really nice and should help mitigate some of your other problems as described above I'd imagine. If the moisture content of the wood could be kept constant, you’d have no problem, but that’s easier said than done. I know under a vacuuming people do impregnate small bits of wood with epoxy or other resins, but I don’t know practical that would be at this scale. A very very thick epoxy finish could probably eliminate most of the MC changes too.
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Mar 11, 2019 18:24
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:And necks are easy! Get a spokeshave and a rasp and go to town. It’s the fretboards that are hard-I’ve always bought them for the banjos I’ve made. I guess with a bass they’re usually one and the same though? You're absolutely right. I was considering the fretboard and the neck to be the same thing, because they come already put together on the warmoth necks.
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Mar 11, 2019 18:27
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AFewBricksShy posted:I'm not sure what you mean by stub. If you're talking about the one on the fretboard, that's coming from their site. The cutoff chicken neck between the horns. The sapele neck will half lap into a pocket in the body, you don't need the protruding part. Like on this LP body, there's no protruding, and its grain is running the right way, so it'll almost certainly never crack- https://www.ebay.com/itm/RELIC-EPOC...W8AAOSweTFceGw~ Depending on how many pickups- 2 is pretty standard, you've still got room to scale your bridge properly.
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Mar 11, 2019 18:40
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Mr. Mambold posted:The cutoff chicken neck between the horns. The sapele neck will half lap into a pocket in the body, you don't need the protruding part. Like on this LP body, there's no protruding, and its grain is running the right way, so it'll almost certainly never crack- AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 18:49 on Mar 11, 2019 |
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Mar 11, 2019 18:47
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I think just make sure the entire surface of the cookie is sealed with several layers of nonpourous sealant and it'll hold still for you OK. The issue then becomes making sure you work quickly and don't leave your project lying around for a few months unfinished, or it may split on you on your workbench.
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Mar 11, 2019 18:57
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While I've got my 10" 80t fine sawblade off my tablesaw with the dadostack running, I figured it might be a good idea to clean up some of the plywood resin / gunk that's starting to dirty up the front and sides of the teeth. Any ideal solvent to use for that? I was thinking of just using some mineral spirits and cloth and dampen it and wipe down after sitting for a few. Just wasn't sure if there was something more bulletproof for this. Figured keeping the blade clean would help me later on.
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Mar 11, 2019 19:23
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I've heard pine sol is great for that. Dilute in some water, not sure of the exact mix. It basically already contains ideal solvents for dissolving pine pitch. e. Regardless of what solvent you use, be sure to lightly oil the blade after, to prevent surface rust. Solvents are great at making steel highly vulnerable to corrosion. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 19:30 on Mar 11, 2019 |
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Mar 11, 2019 19:28
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That Works posted:While I've got my 10" 80t fine sawblade off my tablesaw with the dadostack running, I figured it might be a good idea to clean up some of the plywood resin / gunk that's starting to dirty up the front and sides of the teeth.
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Mar 11, 2019 19:30
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Ok sweet I have pinesol and naptha both. *not using them both at the same time.
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Mar 11, 2019 19:32
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Leperflesh posted:I think just make sure the entire surface of the cookie is sealed with several layers of nonpourous sealant and it'll hold still for you OK. The issue then becomes making sure you work quickly and don't leave your project lying around for a few months unfinished, or it may split on you on your workbench. What is this nonporous sealant of which you speak? That Works posted:While I've got my 10" 80t fine sawblade off my tablesaw with the dadostack running, I figured it might be a good idea to clean up some of the plywood resin / gunk that's starting to dirty up the front and sides of the teeth. Oven cleaner.
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Mar 11, 2019 19:38
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I posted a bit ago about trying to do some dovetails on cherry. I've failed catastrophically. One attempt,  I dimensioned my stock incorrectly and realized I set myself up to cut dovetails into long, not endgrain.One attempt, I cut some aesthetically pleasing dovetail spacing, only to realize I didn't have a chisel that fit in the gaps for cleanup. One attempt, I miss-measured from the edge and hosed up my dovetail widths. gently caress it, I re-marked and cut again, I'll figure out how to sand/fix the faces later. Last attempt, I'm running out of stock. The end is nigh. I fully expect to gently caress it up, but the box I'm making is for a gift tomorrow. Good thing the local grocery store is 24/7 and I can have a nice long cry, then buy wrapping paper. 
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Mar 11, 2019 19:50
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That Works posted:While I've got my 10" 80t fine sawblade off my tablesaw with the dadostack running, I figured it might be a good idea to clean up some of the plywood resin / gunk that's starting to dirty up the front and sides of the teeth. I've used Simple Green and Totally Awesome from the dollar store, and both have done the trick. I would rather use something like this, than something with heavy fumes.
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Mar 11, 2019 20:19
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NPR Journalizard posted:I haven't had a chance to use it yet, life got in the way, but I unboxed it and it has a riving knife and a blade guard. The fence is loose towards the far end, and the mitre gauge has a bit of slop to it, but it's $100. Sounds about right :P if you get a chance to try it out let us know how it goes! I bought the aldi bandsaw and between the blade drift and thin sheet metal table, the fence is totally useless Cannon_Fodder posted:I posted a bit ago about trying to do some dovetails on cherry. These don't all sound quite so catastrophic! Cannon_Fodder posted:One attempt, Not really sure what you mean by this... Did you dimension a board with the grain going the wrong way? This one probably isnt recoverable if that's the case. I guess maybe you cut the dovetails into the long grain on the incorrect edge? Cannon_Fodder posted:One attempt, I cut some aesthetically pleasing dovetail spacing, only to realize I didn't have a chisel that fit in the gaps for cleanup. I do this all the time. Pretty easy to deal with though, I just used a utility and marking knife to cut out the waste where my chisel wouldnt fit. You can still do the oudside edges of the pins and tails with a chisel at least. Cannon_Fodder posted:One attempt, I miss-measured from the edge and hosed up my dovetail widths. gently caress it, I re-marked and cut again, I'll figure out how to sand/fix the faces later. If you are marking out and cutting your pins after you cut your dovetails this isnt a big deal either - they might just be off on one corner, and no one would notice. Cannon_Fodder posted:Last attempt, I'm running out of stock. The end is nigh. I fully expect to gently caress it up, but the box I'm making is for a gift tomorrow. Good thing the local grocery store is 24/7 and I can have a nice long cry, then buy wrapping paper. Good luck! Also it sounds like you didnt at least remove the non-waste portion of your dovetails yet, which seems to be a rite of passage for most woodworkers!  Granite Octopus fucked around with this message at 21:36 on Mar 11, 2019 |
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Mar 11, 2019 21:23
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