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bird with big dick posted:My wife bought one of these things (or similar, maybe there are different models or sizes): Not sure how much of my experience is relevent to Nevada, but here goes anyway: Turning is not necessary, it just makes things go faster. I have three similar sized composters and in this climate it takes around six months from a dead start before I can start taking finished compost out of the bottom. I don't turn; that's the worms' job. I only have one rule for contents: was it alive at one time? One modification for cat and dog poop - that gets "sheet composted" under the blackberries. Hopefully where the dog won't find it and run the cat poop through her own composting system. If the composter is open at the bottom worms and bugs will find their own way into the bin, otherwise I'd start with a 2" layer of the liveliest soil you can find - maybe the raised bed is full of worms? On top of that put in a similar layer of kitchen or garden waste, then seal it with just enough soil to cover it. After two or three iterations don't bother with the dirt anymore unless you're worried about odours, flies, or need to seal in moisture because of your dry climate. Adding large amounts of fresh cut grass can sometimes result in a matted layer that goes anoxic, looks and smells like cow barf, and refuses to break down until you fluff it up with a spading fork. Again, a bit of layering with other materials will prevent this. Keep an eye on the moisture level - the compost should be damp but not wet enough to squeeze water out of. Sprinkle if necessary. If you want fast compost you can geek out, buy a compost thermometer, start worrying about carbon/nitrogen ratios, and buy two more bins so you can turn from one to another. Too much work imo, but if you need compost NOW this is the way to go. My composters are designed to have finished compost removed from the bottom while the upper part continues to rot down and have new material added. That doesn't really work well - the stuff at the back is hard to scrape out effectively. Instead of that every six to nine months I empty the composter, using the finished compost and putting aside any unrotted material, usually the top 8". That gets put back into the empty composter along with a sprinkling of soil and the circle of life begins anew.
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Mar 24, 2019 05:27
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I have wild blackberries in my yard, and they definitely have thorns on the leaf petioles and midribs, so maybe see if you can locate a wild stand and liberate a cane and runner from there? My blackberries happened by pure chance, I found it growing from seed under my downspout- probably having been pooped onto my roof by some bird. I transplanted it next to the fence that faces the neighbor who killed the honeysuckle I'd tried to grow on that fence (the fence is 100% mine on my property but that doesn't stop them from pruning stuff on it or coming around the edge of it and mowing into my front yard flower beds, so this is a retaliatory blackberry with bonus of giving me fruit).
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Mar 24, 2019 11:17
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I regularly throw 10-20# of spent grains in my compost (when I have no other use for them), and that's really the only time I worry about mixing. Otherwise, I just turn the new stuff into the pile so it doesn't just sit on the top and it does decompose much quicker that way. I've taken temps, and the only time it gets below 120F is when it really freezes in the winter. I'm building a new one this week that's basically just wire sides, bottom and posts because the rats dug their way into the hard plastic ones I had similar to that. So maybe throw some chicken wire underneath it if you have an actual rodent problem like we do here. Makes a ton of compost every year though. (really just a few hundred pounds).
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Mar 24, 2019 17:49
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Ape Has Killed Ape posted:Anyone know a good place to buy a blackberry with thorns? I tried planting blackberries and raspberries last year, and they both did well until the deer found them. They ate all the leaves off the blackberry plants, but left the thorny raspberries alone. I'd like to put new blackberry plants in this year, but every variety is thornless these days. Where are you located? The several varieties of thornless blackberries we tried didn't taste like much and eventually died out. We did not mourn their passing. The Himalayan Giants otoh thrived and while the deer still browse them they carry on like a honey badger. Himalayan Giant is the classic alien invasive blackberry species in North America so nurseries might be a little leery about stocking it in amongst all the other alien invasives they sell. Our plants came from an abandoned homestead a couple of kilometres away so they would have gotten here sooner or later anyway. fake edit: I got curious and did a little Googling: there's lots of mail order sellers in the U.K. and an eBay seller offering Himalayan Giant bare root plants in the U.S. If you're not on the West Coast the plants might need special treatment - I'm told blackberries need to be carefully wrapped to survive the -40 Peace River winters for example.
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Mar 24, 2019 18:13
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I'm in Northeast Tennessee, zone 7a, so there's pretty much no variety of blackberry that won't grow here. I'm honestly thinking I'll just go out into the woods around my house and clear a bunch of redbud and sapling hardwood, take a box of deck screws and build a bentwood fence around the area. If it turns out well I'll probably do a larger one around the main garden this fall.
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Mar 25, 2019 01:47
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It's amazing how fast some plants shoot up. I had pole bean seeds in for weeks with no signs of life, then over a couple days they're already so tall they were about to fall over. My Sichuan chili peppers have still not sprouted. At least it was only a few bucks down the drain but annoying.
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Mar 25, 2019 21:35
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Healthy pepper plants will start late unless you force them and then keep bearing faster and faster as it gets hotter until they finally get just the slightest bit too cold and it's a wrap. Pole beans just go ham until they freeze a few times.
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Mar 25, 2019 21:47
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I'll be starting a job soon where there's a gardening club and a bunch of plots on the campus. I'm hoping that I can get use of a plot or two since I'm living in an apartment. It looks like quite a few of the plots are listed as unused, so I'm hoping my chances are good! The plots are ~10'x17' which sounds like a good size for a first real garden plot for me. My plan was to go for a few veggies, with some annual flowers in the middle in an attempt to attract insects and the like. I'm thinking of growing a mix of winter squash and zucchini, and some pole beans. What kind of spacing is typical for squash/zucchini? I was going to attempt the classic corn-bean-squash intercropping with poles in place of the corn since it's a small plot. I want to grow some blue squashes. Is it more/less difficult depending on the fruit size? I can go for the hubbard with like 15 lb squashes, a medium-sized 5 lb, or a tiny 0.5-1 lb squash.
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Mar 26, 2019 18:35
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Eeyo posted:I'll be starting a job soon where there's a gardening club and a bunch of plots on the campus. I'm hoping that I can get use of a plot or two since I'm living in an apartment. It looks like quite a few of the plots are listed as unused, so I'm hoping my chances are good! The plots are ~10'x17' which sounds like a good size for a first real garden plot for me. All the info you need on different methods of growing three sisters (PDF): https://images.nativeseeds.org/pdfs/3_Sisters_Garden.pdf Includes frequently used alternative crops like amaranth, sunflowers, watermelon, and melon. Squash should be placed at least 2' apart, usually more like 4'. They sprawl a lot. Smaller squashes are always easier to get to maturity than big squashes, IMO. Lot like tomatoes and how hard it is to get a good beefsteak vs a good cherry tomato. For your 10 x 17 I'd go for the three sisters field layout and you'd probably still have space left over for some densely planted greens, root veggies, tomatoes, chillies, etc.
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Mar 26, 2019 19:13
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I live in a third story apartment. I have a decent sized balcony and as we move into spring I would like to get into growing things. I am feeling an irresistible urge to do this. However, I have little to no experience gardening. I currently have three tiny succulents I have not killed yet. Is there a good guide anywhere for ideas on how to start simple little balcony gardens? I would like to grow some herbs, some basic vegetables, and maybe a decorative vine for the rail. I get good morning light but I face the courtyard, so that's not ideal. I definitely want to grow some tomatoes and that seems easy enough. Ideas? Experience? Point me in the right direction?
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Mar 27, 2019 15:45
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I see a lot of balcony gardening posts on various Reddit subs. You might find some good starting info just reading around there. Since you're new, try live plants rather than starting from seed. So you can go to the garden center and buy a few herbs, some potting soil, and some pots that are a bit bigger than what the herbs come in. Move the herbs over to the pots, fill in around them with soil. Water only when the top inch or two of soil have dried out. You might struggle with light-hungry plants like tomatoes. Morning light is good, but how many hours of direct light are you talking?
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Mar 27, 2019 17:30
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FizFashizzle posted:I live in a third story apartment. I have a decent sized balcony and as we move into spring I would like to get into growing things. I am feeling an irresistible urge to do this. Sun and space are going to be your limiting factors. For sun, what direction does the balcony face, roughly? Keep in mind that the arc of the sun's path will, depending on your latitude, change dramatically in angle over the growing season (from lower on the horizon to higher as you get into summer). I have spots on my back patio that are full sun now that will be shade by July and vice versa. Because of the nature of balconies (assuming there is another floor above it) this is generally to their detriment as it means you'll be getting less sun penetrating deep into the area. For space you are simply limited in terms of how many plants you can have in the available sunlight at a time. Ideally you'll want to have your smaller plants (herbs, greens, roots) towards the edge and your larger ones (peppers, tomatoes, vines) towards the back to keep from shading one another; however, the larger plants also tend to be the more sun-hungry ones, so this is a bit of a tension. Depending on the amount of sun you get, I think that herbs, greens, and maybe things like carrots/radishes/beets are all quite doable. Peppers of various sorts if you have room, and tomatoes/cucumbers if you are very lucky with the sunlight/willing to put them front-and-center. I have been doing all-container gardening and in my experience the tomatoes were the primadonas of the garden, but the cucumbers and peppers were the real treasures and required much less work. Burpee has an index dedicated to container friendly vegetable varieties that is probably worth perusing. You can order plants directly from them, either as a 3-pack or as a mix-and-match pack of 3 different plants (for certain varieties). For tomatoes I would say that in my (limited) experience determinate/semi-determinate cherry tomatoes were by far the most rewarding in terms of flavor and yield, while I had a lot of frustration with the indeterminates I tried to grow -- low yield despite healthy foliage growth. I also have limited sun available due to surrounding trees, so that was probably a double-whammy for me. For growing environment, I made a bunch of sub-irrigated planters by getting a couple sets of large plastic/resin planters like these, placing a grow bucket lid in the bottom of each (drilling a bunch of drainage/air holes around the flat part) and drilling two holes in the side of the planter just below where the lip of the lid would sit. I then crammed a 1/2" rubber grommit into each drainage hole, partially to keep the false bottom from shifting/slipping and partially just to make it look nice. I then stuck an 18" x 3/4" piece of PVC into a hole in the false bottom that ran to the top of the planter to serve as my fill tube. For soil, I filled the bottom of each planter with a mix of clay pebbles (to ensure good aeration) and Coco Coir (to aid with wicking) up to just above the false bottom, and then topped the rest off with a mix of good quality potting and more coco coir. These planters have worked great so far for peppers, tomatoes, and cucumbers for me.They're plenty deep for root crops, and large enough to do nice little clusters of smaller plants (but not so large as to be a pain to move). e: Railing boxes are also a potential opportunity. Herbs would do great in there.
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Mar 27, 2019 18:00
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Because I am pound foolish, I bought some cheap “potting and raised bed” soil that turns out to be mostly wood mulch. I planted some raspberries in it with a healthy amount of sphagnum moss and perlite. I’m not that worried about the raspberries because they’re basically weeds; they’re hardy and I hear they’re not too demanding of fertiliser. Still, what’s a good fertiliser mix to counteract the sucking wood mulch?
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Mar 28, 2019 10:38
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I would like to say that #1 - Spider mites suck and I hate them #2 - Watering the plants backwards (spraying up from the bottom, hitting the undersides of the leaves) is much more effective than neem oil at keeping them under control, even though you look like some sort of slapstick routine while you are doing it.
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Mar 28, 2019 10:57
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Platystemon posted:Because I am pound foolish, I bought some cheap “potting and raised bed” soil that turns out to be mostly wood mulch. Decomposing wood mulch is going to be low in nitrogen mainly. A basic fish fertilizer can supply it, but it will smell awful and also not provide any other nutrients. Nearly all fertilizers will have three numbers on the front indicating their specific proportions of nitrogen, phosphate, and potash (potassium). If you don't have a specific deficiency, look for three numbers that are roughly the same and relatively low (<10) to avoid over-fertilizing. If you use an organic fertilizer (such as Espoma Garden-tone (3-4-4), it will take longer to break down and will act as a slow-release. If your plants start having specific deficiencies, Googling symptoms will usually help you figure out what's missing, and you can adjust your fertilizer to match. I keep Garden-tone and Tomato-tone (3-4-6, higher potassium for fruit and veg production) on hand for general fertilizing. They're granular and don't smell too bad.
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Mar 28, 2019 13:42
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I’m using some fertilizer right now (all 14s, IIRC). I thought I’d heard wood mulch was particularly bad for nitrogen, but when I googled, everyone just extolled the virtues of wood mulch. It’s good to have confirmation. I’ll supplement it with a little ammonium nitrate; that should be better for acidic soil than calcium nitrate or sodium nitrate.
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Mar 28, 2019 22:51
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I personally avoid wood mulch like the plague because of the high likelihood you’ll import termites (had em) and artillery fungus. I switched to shredded leaves because it’s free on my lot. You just have to replenish it every year.
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Mar 28, 2019 23:32
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So last summer I planted some kiwi seeds from store bought fruit, just for fun. I ended up with six plants that I slapped into nursery pots and mostly forgot about, expecting winter to kill them. It was an unusually harsh will winter for zone 7a (multiple weeks of below 10f and a foot of snow at one point), so I wrote off the kiwis as dead. Today I came to get those nursery pots to up pot a few things, and found a singular survivor.  I'm not really sure what to do with the little thing. Do I plant more kiwi to try and get at least one male and female plant? Or just chalk it off as a complete fluke and plant it to see how long it survives? Edit: I have no idea why the image isn't showing up. Imgur is hot garbage. Here's a tweet instead. https://twitter.com/Follow_Ape_Law/status/1111395288831414272 Ape Has Killed Ape fucked around with this message at 01:03 on Mar 29, 2019 |
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Mar 29, 2019 00:18
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Crakkerjakk posted:All the info you need on different methods of growing three sisters (PDF): https://images.nativeseeds.org/pdfs/3_Sisters_Garden.pdf Thanks! So is it best practice to place the beans on the perimeter of the squash plants? I was imagining that they were planted close together for some reason.
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Mar 29, 2019 15:26
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Ape Has Killed Ape posted:So last summer I planted some kiwi seeds from store bought fruit, just for fun. I ended up with six plants that I slapped into nursery pots and mostly forgot about, expecting winter to kill them. It was an unusually harsh will winter for zone 7a (multiple weeks of below 10f and a foot of snow at one point), so I wrote off the kiwis as dead. I'm developing a profound respect for kiwi vines. We've had a pair for years - only the male ever amounted to anything. The female disappeared in the weeds five years ago and got mowed accidentally. No sign of her when we rototilled the area and put in the asparagus bed. After being out of sight for at least two years she popped up on one edge of the asparagus. I dug her out this spring and ended up with three plants, the healthiest I planted where I want a kiwi and the other two ended up on the fence line where they can arm-wrestle blackberries and alders. Kiwis can be a bit finicky when it comes to flowering. We've never had flowers on either of our vines and a friend just ripped his out after getting tired of no results. If you want kiwis I'd suggest waiting until it flowers then buying the opposite sex from a nursery.
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Mar 29, 2019 16:17
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I’d love to grow kiwi, but am allergic (found out in adulthood there was a reason I wasn’t a fan growing up) it’s like eating razors
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Mar 30, 2019 06:57
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Eeyo posted:Thanks! So is it best practice to place the beans on the perimeter of the squash plants? I was imagining that they were planted close together for some reason. Beans go next to the corn (after the corn is already a couple inches tall, so the beans don't kill the corn), and trellis up the corn stalks. Squash gets planted after the beans are pushing out of the soil, because they will sprawl and crowd out the beans and corn if the other plants don't have a jump start to get above the squash. The squash acts as living mulch, shading the ground and limiting the number of weeds all three have to compete with. And the squash gets planted about 1.5 feet away from the esge of where you're planting the beans and corn. Crakkerjakk fucked around with this message at 16:45 on Mar 30, 2019 |
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Mar 30, 2019 15:42
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I planted pepper seeds this week. I'm late and I'm considering just abandoning seeding this year and buying plants, but with the peppers I just bought 6 kinds of peppers, pulled out the seeds, made a really good chili, and planted them. I've never done that before but if it doesn't work out all it cost me was that seeding pack and a really good pot of chili. I probably have time to start tomatoes since I doubt real spring starts until late April or early May at earliest. But I'm thinking I'll just buy my herbs grown this year since I had to last year when my seeds failed me. I'm not sure what else I'm doing. I'm gonna try pumpkins again. I think I'm late on that but they were growing pretty well last year when I was lazy and just threw them into dirt until the deer got at them. So this year I'll actually dig up the area, throw some good stuff down, and toss up a fence. Maybe I'll have a fun Halloween/Thanksgiving. Besides that I have no idea. Tomorrow I'll hit Lowes and buy some seeding kits and lumber to build my bed extensions/dividers. Then I'll figure out how much space I have so I can figure out what to plant. Every year I debate building an irrigation system with some PVC tubing but... I won't.
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Mar 31, 2019 01:34
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Starters are expensive enough that I just skip growing something if I miss the season. I started my peppers and tomatoes about 4 weeks late, but I should still be ok.
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Mar 31, 2019 04:02
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My dad got a gift card from a local plant nursery, and now we’re thinking about planting a fruit tree or two in our backyard. Is this the thread to ask questions about fruit trees?
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Mar 31, 2019 04:31
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It depends on where you are as to whether it's "too late". You can be late for peppers and tomatoes okay in a lot of places, they like it when it's warmer anyway. Pumpkins should be plenty fine right now. My mother grows them every year and doesn't even plant pumpkins and squash until closer to Memorial Day in zone 5. Plenty of them long before the end of October. I will say that some grocery store peppers are hybrids, so they may not be true to what you're expecting, but you may have peppers. I just started more peppers last week because of the random seeds on amazon fail (I'll keep searching drat it), and they've already mostly come up and I should have some Korean Dark Green peppers (the hot ones) and some Datil peppers which I'd never encountered before.
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Mar 31, 2019 04:33
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I'm New York Zone 5 (I think) and usually my peppers don't show up until August or September and I basically gamble each day that the weather will hold up for a good ripe harvest before the cold hits. I wanted to seed back in February to really get them going early and have good plants by the time they really get planted but... life and procrastination. I just felt like doing the fresh seed pepper mix. Bell, Red, Jalapeno, Habanero, Pablano, and Cubano. Just what they had in the supermarket that day. I've never grown from seeds I didn't get out of packets and I've never grown anything but bell so I wanted to give it a shot. Like I said, I'll probably buy another seeder and just toss in a mix of packeted tomato seeds and fresh ones (I'll make BLTs tomorrow or something). But I'm not really counting on them this year so I'm not gonna spend a lot of money or burn the energy on glow lights or anything. I'm just leaving them on my windowsill and seeing how it goes. Then when spring comes for real (which yeah, is probably near Memorial Day) I'll figure out what I have to buy. Gonna put a little more research and thought to fertalizer and mulch this year so maybe that will help me out. I have a plan and hopefully it leads to less wild growth and weeds and more actually fruit producing plants.
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Mar 31, 2019 04:48
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We started our seeds about two weeks back, sewing some in egg cartons parked on a warming mat, some into raised beds and some into long planter boxes for some greens. So far so good. Several varieties of tomatoes, basil, eggplant, collards, broccoli, lettuces and random flowers have sprouted. Still waiting on spinach, dino kale and peppers. Now that the seeds are sprouting I move the egg cartons into the sun during the day and back on the mat at night trying to get the rest germinated. Gonna rotate them out soon and start in some new seeds. Our lot has patches of all day sun but most of our back yard gets a lot of shade. We found some full sun plots at a community garden and cleared out the weeds. The previous tenant must have opened some seed bags and scattered then only to never come back. Underneath the weeds were tons of little starter sized chard plants. We thinned out the bed so a few could have some space to grow and still managed to take home a ton to replant. It’s an embarrassment of chard. Got all the work in we could in time for a week of rain. Just a small taste of spring, excited for the full thing. Yiggy fucked around with this message at 10:19 on Mar 31, 2019 |
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Mar 31, 2019 09:20
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I. M. Gei posted:My dad got a gift card from a local plant nursery, and now we’re thinking about planting a fruit tree or two in our backyard. You might have better luck in the Plants In General thread. I got some good advice about my pear tree there.
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Mar 31, 2019 14:20
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In a strange twist of events. not a single one of my pepper or tomato seeds has sprouted yet, but most of my luffa have... I kind of figure the opposite would happen, also I'm gonna end up with twice as many luffa as I was hoping for, but that's probably ok, because they got into shock if you look at them funny.
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Mar 31, 2019 23:05
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This weekend I have been beaten up by two separate plants: a rose that scratched my forearm to pieces in the gap between sleeve and glove, and a baby apple tree that I was trying to repot into a larger container. To be fair, that last one was self-defence on the tree's part, as it was quietly budding away to itself in its ridiculously small pot until I somehow managed to poke myself in the eye with it? I'm seriously considering paying for a tetanus booster. The NHS only gives it to travellers and I don't think the end of the garden is quite far enough. My pepper and tomato seedlings are quite sizeable now, and would be ready to go into the greenhouse if I had built it. That'll be next weekend's job. Lady Demelza fucked around with this message at 00:26 on Apr 1, 2019 |
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Apr 1, 2019 00:19
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I. M. Gei posted:My dad got a gift card from a local plant nursery, and now we’re thinking about planting a fruit tree or two in our backyard. The answer to whatever your question is "Yes, plant Peach trees!"
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Apr 1, 2019 03:20
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God I love home grown peaches and plums.
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Apr 1, 2019 03:31
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bengy81 posted:In a strange twist of events. not a single one of my pepper or tomato seeds has sprouted yet, but most of my luffa have... I kind of figure the opposite would happen, also I'm gonna end up with twice as many luffa as I was hoping for, but that's probably ok, because they got into shock if you look at them funny. Peppers like a little heat it seems, a heat pad made mine pop
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Apr 1, 2019 04:15
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Peppers like a little heat it seems, a heat pad made mine pop Yeah, I have them all on a heat mat under a light system. I'm not too worried, it's only been 6 days since I put them in soil, if they dont pop by the end of the week then I'll probably need to figure out a plan B.
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Apr 1, 2019 04:26
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Crakkerjakk posted:God I love home grown peaches and plums.
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Apr 1, 2019 04:55
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So I know parsley is biennial -- is the second year growth still good for culinary uses, or should I just dig up the nubs I've got that are starting to sprout again and plant anew?
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Apr 1, 2019 13:27
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It’s still good the second year. It will probably start to flower at some point and make fewer leaves and die, but not for a few weeks or months. If I leave them alone and let them flower and set seed, occasionally they reseed themselves but not as reliably as basil or cilantro. The roots are good in a stew or stock. They have a nice parsley/parsnip/carrot flavor.
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Apr 1, 2019 13:41
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cheese posted:Go for it. Good because one of the trees I want to plant is a peach tree (the other is a gala apple tree). What’s a good peach variety to grow in northeast Texas, Zone 8B, in an area that averages 750-800 chill hours per year? Based on what I’ve read, I think I’m looking for a yellow-flesh variety, maybe a freestone, with every potential food application out there. What varieties do they grow in Georgia? I. M. Gei fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Apr 2, 2019 |
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Apr 2, 2019 04:17
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Last week saw a few very windy days followed by two days of consistent rain - the first real rain we've had this year. That lead to us coming home to a very depressed looking balcony: All of our tomatoes were standing at least a foot or two higher than that before the 'storm.' Good news is that all the plants are still hearty and producing fruit. After an afternoon with some twine and some posts, here's the updated balcony:  and we moved the one that was buried furthest back in the corner to its own spot off to the side, where it's not competing for space:  The everglades cherry tomatoes are still producing like crazy, and we're picking about 10 little tomatoes every day. Temperatures are starting to consistently get above 90, and at the moment we're still only watering them once a day. The plan is to switch to twice a day soon, and hopefully keep the tomatoes alive and happy until May, or it just gets too hot for them and they give up. It's been a good growing season so far. In other plant news, 2/5 pepper plants have started to put out flowers. The hope is to keep these alive through the summer.    Not sure precisely what kind of pepper they are- I bought peppers from the grocery store, took out seeds and started a bunch from seed. This is the first time I've grown peppers, and also the first successful batch of tomatoes we've done. I guess December is a good planting time in Dubai, though we may move it up to November next year to get a few more weeks of early growing in before it warms up.
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Apr 2, 2019 07:58
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