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Apr 17, 2019 06:06
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Motronic posted:All of my small poo poo "just works" since I started using trufuel or similar, and after replacing carbs form when I was running regular fuel with stabil in it. You may not know, but figured I'd ask you since you use Trufuel a lot and like it. Do you think it'd work in a 50cc 2-cycle moped engine? I have one from last summer that I just ride for fun, not for actual commuting, so the extra price negating the good mileage doesn't matter to me. But since I just got it out of storage and now have to clean out the carb and all that fun stuff to get it running again, it got me wondering if it would work...or maybe just have my last 'run' of the year use the engineered stuff to clear the gasoline out of everything? And as a corralary, can I get the 4 stroke fuel and add oil to make it two stroke, so I can use the same fuel for my lawnmower and snowblower? Or will I have to get both varieties?
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Apr 18, 2019 16:36
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DrBouvenstein posted:You may not know, but figured I'd ask you since you use Trufuel a lot and like it. I don't see why it wouldn't run fine in the moped, but I wouldn't really want to go mixing whatever 2 stroke oil with the 4 stroke formula. While I'm sure things would run fine on it, I don't know how that would alter it's longevity and frankly it's too cheap to bother experimenting with. You can get it in quarts, so it's not like you need to pay for 5 gallons of the stuff at a time.
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Apr 18, 2019 16:52
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Motronic posted:I don't see why it wouldn't run fine in the moped, but I wouldn't really want to go mixing whatever 2 stroke oil with the 4 stroke formula. While I'm sure things would run fine on it, I don't know how that would alter it's longevity and frankly it's too cheap to bother experimenting with. You can get it in quarts, so it's not like you need to pay for 5 gallons of the stuff at a time. I buy SEF fake gas in 5 gallon cans and mix it to make 2-stroke fuel. It works great. Same ratio as regular gas. I also run synthetic 2-stroke oil, which seems to run really well in my saws and strimmer.
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Apr 19, 2019 00:41
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Does anyone have a recommendation for a high quality small bench grinder? I'm trying to find one for shaping and sharpening model making tools, but everything I've found looks like junk or is hilariously underpowered. If all else fails I might just get a standard size and make/buy special tables for it.
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Apr 19, 2019 01:15
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for a high quality small bench grinder? https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/rikon-professional-low-speed-grinder.aspx Dremel clamped to a benchtop might work too if you need really tiny? I could see modifying a chainsaw sharpener or something too that runs a thin wheel. Grinders are pretty dead simple too though-even a cheap harbor freight one will usually do an okay job.
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Apr 19, 2019 01:29
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I got a new drill press, a Shop Fox W1848. It uses a pair of belts to set the drill speed; you change the speed by moving the belts between different wheels. In order to de-tension the belts so you can move them, you're supposed to push the motor against a spring. But my motor is already maximally compressing the spring; there's maybe a couple of millimeters of "slack": I emailed tech support, and they said: quote:When the W1848 13-1/4" OSCILLATING FLOOR DRILL PRESS is first setup for use the belts on the pulleys are very tight and the motor will be pulled to its most forward position. To change the speeds of the W1848 it will be necessary walk the belts off of the pulleys for any speed changes. As the belts wear and break in they will stretch and as they stretch it will be easier to change speeds, the motor can then be used to take up the slack by pulling it back.
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Apr 19, 2019 18:27
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Yep, pretty much what you described. I'd maybe use a wooden dowel (to avoid damaging the pulleys) to help pry things along.
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Apr 19, 2019 18:36
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I always use a long screwdriver to walk or unass a belt
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Apr 19, 2019 20:32
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I'm going to Burning Man and will be using 3/8" x 14" lag screws to anchor my poo poo to the ground. Various opinions online range from "eh, any old drill will be fine" to "if you don't have a 1/2" impact wrench with megatons of torque and batteries for days GTFO" I'd prefer it to be cordless.. I don't currently have any tools, so I can buy into any ecosystem. What should I get?
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Apr 19, 2019 22:20
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Do you prefer green, blue, red or yellow?
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Apr 19, 2019 22:32
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Ryobi is cheapest, my M18 mid torque impact wrench worked very well last year. 1/4 hex impact drivers will work but are slow. I'd bring an actual impact wrench if you're doing a full camp, but a hex driver is probably fine if you're just doing a few lags.
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Apr 19, 2019 22:41
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stupid puma posted:After struggling to keep my snowblower running all winter I vowed I’m never buying anything with a gas engine in it again. Electric snowblowers don’t get great reviews online but they HAVE to be better than loving around with a lovely carb in your garage for 30 minutes when it’s 5 degrees out. 1. Making an electric go-kart for my daughter and an electric go-kart fire truck for my son 2. Use those skills and batteries to make an electric battery powered snowblower I have no idea if I can actually do it (any), but I think I killed ANOTHER engine (snowblower this time) because it's either hydrolocked (but doesn't even turn over when I take out the sparkplug) or the bearings seized.
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Apr 19, 2019 22:50
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Happiness Commando posted:I'm going to Burning Man and will be using 3/8" x 14" lag screws to anchor my poo poo to the ground. Various opinions online range from "eh, any old drill will be fine" to "if you don't have a 1/2" impact wrench with megatons of torque and batteries for days GTFO" Get whichever of DeWalt, Makita, Milwaukee, Ryobi has the best Father’s Day sales.
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Apr 19, 2019 23:25
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oXDemosthenesXo posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for a high quality small bench grinder? https://tradesmangrinder.com/ https://tradesmangrinder.com/product/tradesman-6-machinist-dc-variable-speed-bench-grinder/ Bring your credit card, they're not cheap 
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Apr 20, 2019 00:18
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Well, I hosed myself over with the drill press. The slowest speed required the spindle's belt to be below the motor's belt, while it ships with them the other way around. So I removed both belts, put the spindle belt back on, then started stepping it down, which meant tightening it...and I didn't put the motor belt on to counter any of that tension. So the goddamn thing's wedged now. The center wheel is swiveled way over towards the spindle. In fact, it is swiveled so far over that it's rubbing against the bracket holding that other wheel (which is for when you want to use the drill press as an oscillating sander), as well as a little plastic gear.  It's wedged so tight I can't turn the wheels without using both hands, which makes it really goddamn hard to try to step the belt out of either of the tracks it's in. And when I do turn it I can hear the wheel grinding against the metal. It's also wedged in tight enough that I can't get the motor belt into any of the tracks on the center wheel; there's physically not enough space between the center wheel and the oscillating wheel to get the belt into place. loving $500 piece of equipment with the world's shittiest manual. Gives absolutely zero guidance on how to interact with it, just "here's the table of which belt settings correspond to which speeds, go to it." Doesn't mention that the thing ships from the factory in maximum tension, doesn't have any warnings that "oh by the way you can gently caress yourself over if you do this one thing that's easy to accidentally do, so don't do that." Doesn't physically stop the center wheel from impacting nearby obstructions, which I would think would be a pretty easy thing to do to make sure you don't destroy a lovely little plastic gear or wedge yourself into unrecoverability. Do I have any options here beyond cutting the belt off and buying a new one?
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Apr 20, 2019 00:39
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A friend moving means I am losing access to some awesome old Delta shop items - table saw, jointer, planer, bandsaw. I don’t think I have quite enough room for cabinet versions of each. Any experience with tabletop planers and jointers? Reviews online range from great to worst thing ever so I’m not sure about them. I still want to be able to buy rough lumber since s4s is pretty expensive compared to s2s. I think a cabinet table saw is probably the route I go, but if someone has rave reviews about a portable saw I am all ears. I’ve used a contractor saw a few times (10 years ago) and they felt like crap to use. Maybe they are good now since it looks like they come in much larger table sizes. Bandsaw I am pretty much convinced on a Rikon since someone else here posted there purchase. It looks awesome. I have a budget around $4000 all-in. I am lookin at going new or refurb. Craigslist has been pretty spotty and I like having a warranty. I make mostly larger sized furniture with hardwoods. What would you do for your shop?
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Apr 20, 2019 00:42
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stuxracer posted:A friend moving means I am losing access to some awesome old Delta shop items - table saw, jointer, planer, bandsaw. I don’t think I have quite enough room for cabinet versions of each. You could post this to the woodworking thread to get a bit more insight, but I'll offer mine. I've only ever used and owned a cabinet saw, so can't really recommend anything other than that. I'd stay away from benchtop jointers as they're usually pretty lightweight, have short beds, and usually a fixed outfeed table which is annoying. Benchtop planers can do the job, they leave an amazing surface compared to a floor model due to their universal motors running at like 6000rpm, and they use rubber feed rollers instead of serrated rollers which leave marks. That being said, they're loud due to said motor, and you need to take light passes so that means more time spent planing. I had a benchtop, then upgraded to a 15" floor model, and now I'm back to another benchtop due to moving to the city and having to downsize my shop a bit (the big planer is an hour away at my inlaws farm). If I ever get more space I'll keep my benchtop model and use the floor model for rough planing, then do the final pass on the benchtop. So you could go for a floor jointer and a benchtop planer. If you absolutely don't have room for the jointer, either joint by hand or build a jointing sled for your planer.
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Apr 20, 2019 01:44
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stuxracer posted:A friend moving means I am losing access to some awesome old Delta shop items - table saw, jointer, planer, bandsaw. I don’t think I have quite enough room for cabinet versions of each. The dewalt planer everyone gets(not the lunchbox one) is awesome, and you can even throw a helical head in it. Those benchtop jointers that some chinese company makes and everyone sells under their own paint job BLOW. I want a real one with a helical head so bad:(
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Apr 20, 2019 02:01
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Do I have any options here beyond cutting the belt off and buying a new one? OR, going for the stupidest solution, take apart the oscillation assembly and that will move that plastic gear. Other than that... I got nothing. For the future, make a metal bar that stops the idler arm stops before the pulley can possibly hit the gear.
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Apr 20, 2019 02:23
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Thanks. I manage to fix it. It helps to get some food and to cool down for a bit, but I still need a pair of locking pliers (to get leverage to turn the middle wheel) and a big screwdriver to lever the belt off. I don't know if the plastic gear still works. I guess I'll find out when I try to use it as a sander. Good call on inserting a block to keep the wheel from moving too far over.
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Apr 20, 2019 02:48
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Does anyone have an old fluke multimeter they want to sell me? Barring that, what's a good/forgiving meter I can buy for my brother who just moved into his first home? It doesn't need many fancy features... Just want to get him something that'll last and would prefer something that won't melt if he accidentally tries to measure resistance on a live circuit.
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Apr 20, 2019 05:12
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stuxracer posted:I think a cabinet table saw is probably the route I go, but if someone has rave reviews about a portable saw I am all ears. I’ve used a contractor saw a few times (10 years ago) and they felt like crap to use. Maybe they are good now since it looks like they come in much larger table sizes. I've just bought the dewalt 745 which was close to $1000. I've never used a table saw before so i can't speak from a place of authority, but for a jobsite saw it seems pretty decent. It does have a certain amount of slop in pretty much all aspects which I'm going to have to take into account and improve upon myself, but the next step up to a full size saw was another $1500 and I'm just not going to use it that much. It's up to you and your budget I guess but my conclusion was it was better for me to buy a high end site saw than a low end shop saw (the term "cabinet saw" doesn't apply quite so directly to the UK market).
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Apr 20, 2019 10:41
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Jaded Burnout posted:I've just bought the dewalt 745 which was close to $1000. I've never used a table saw before so i can't speak from a place of authority, but for a jobsite saw it seems pretty decent. It does have a certain amount of slop in pretty much all aspects which I'm going to have to take into account and improve upon myself, but the next step up to a full size saw was another $1500 and I'm just not going to use it that much. I think you were robbed, m8?
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Apr 20, 2019 16:10
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Jaded Burnout posted:I've just bought the dewalt 745 which was close to $1000. A dewalt 745 costs under $300 my dude
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Apr 20, 2019 16:47
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Maybe 749 in a different country than the US?
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Apr 20, 2019 17:01
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I misremembered a little, $583: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000Y8TZV8
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Apr 20, 2019 17:58
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TheBananaKing posted:Barring that, what's a good/forgiving meter I can buy for my brother who just moved into his first home? It doesn't need many fancy features... Just want to get him something that'll last and would prefer something that won't melt if he accidentally tries to measure resistance on a live circuit. If it's just for testing basic household stuff, just grab one of the Harbor Freight freebies (https://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/7+FUNCTION+DIGITAL+MULTIMETER). It's plenty good/accurate enough for testing 120v circuits, car batteries, and it even has a load tester for testing common alkaline batteries (more accurate than just their voltage.) I have one that still running on the original batteries and is almost 7 years old. Fluke's are overkill for probably 90% of the people that use them. If you use your meter daily to put bread on the table, go ahead, but most users would be better off saving the money to buy tools where paying for quality makes a difference in their usage.
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Apr 20, 2019 19:23
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B-Nasty posted:If it's just for testing basic household stuff, just grab one of the Harbor Freight freebies (https://www.hfqpdb.com/best_coupon/7+FUNCTION+DIGITAL+MULTIMETER). It's plenty good/accurate enough for testing 120v circuits, car batteries, and it even has a load tester for testing common alkaline batteries (more accurate than just their voltage.) I have one that still running on the original batteries and is almost 7 years old. I agree with 95% of this, but I've had terrible luck with the <$5 bargain bin meters. Nearly every one I've owned has gone haywire or burnt out after like 20-30 uses, even though I've only used them for 120ac and 12v dc bullshit. Not gonna lie, I probably connected at least one or two to a hot circuit on the wrong setting, but some of them have died completely of their own accord. Meanwhile the fluke 75 I've had for 15 years is still going strong even with near daily use. And it's accurate enough to get reliable millivolt readings on car sensors where that occasionally matters. TheBananaKing fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Apr 21, 2019 |
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Apr 21, 2019 00:36
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TheBananaKing posted:I agree with 95% of this, but I've had terrible luck with the <$5 bargain bin meters. If you're dead-set on it, I have, and really like the UNI-T UT210E ($40). It can do milliamp DC readings on the clamp or up to 100A. It also has a nice non-contact voltage meter that displays strength as you approach the source. It's true-RMS and can do capacitance as well. Pretty much the best value in multimeters I've found, and it's very tiny and convenient. If you want fancier than that, I'd open your wallet and bend over for big yellow.
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Apr 21, 2019 02:01
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I also use a UNI-T. I wouldn't use it on anything over 240v, but everything below that it works just fine.
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Apr 21, 2019 02:08
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I've had pretty good luck with the Klein meters that you can find at Home Depot. I think the one I have currently was maybe $50-60ish. I wouldn't think twice about using it on any high voltage, and it's survived drops off lifts/ladders that were up 20-30 feet multiple times.
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Apr 21, 2019 03:49
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~Coxy posted:Why? Big box store like Lowes or HD just pushes the return back onto the manufacturer who is the ultimately responsible party for the defective tool anyway. I dislike people who knowingly return missing stuff just because my store handles it so poorly, and in the case of the table saw I would be happy if he return it to the proper merchant but that is a pain in the rear end with Amazon. My comment was tongue in cheek, I would do the same in this case, but I would at least make sure to tell them the knob was broken when returning it. Not Wolverine fucked around with this message at 16:54 on Apr 21, 2019 |
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Apr 21, 2019 13:54
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I deal with that all the time with Amazon warehouse. I order a pair of forklift fork guards, and the box shows up with only one guard... Cosmetic damage was what the description said. I'm sure they'll take them back or let me keep it, but still, it sucks when people are dishonest. I don't buy tools there anymore, because the package checkers don't know the difference between Proto and Pittsburgh.
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Apr 21, 2019 22:22
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sharkytm posted:I buy SEF fake gas in 5 gallon cans and mix it to make 2-stroke fuel. It works great. Same ratio as regular gas. I also run synthetic 2-stroke oil, which seems to run really well in my saws and strimmer. To continue this, is ethanol free gas not widely available everywhere? Its typically $0.40 or more than ethanol blended fuel per gallon, but that is still much cheaper than the prices I see for premixed fuels.
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Apr 25, 2019 09:20
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The Gardenator posted:To continue this, is ethanol free gas not widely available everywhere? Its typically $0.40 or more than ethanol blended fuel per gallon, but that is still much cheaper than the prices I see for premixed fuels. There isn't ethanol free gasoline from a pump anywhere near me in MA. You can go to the airport and buy avgas for $6/gallon. I just checked PureGas, and I don't think I missed any. Pure Gas now shows every place that has canned fuel, so it's not as useful as it used to be.
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Apr 25, 2019 12:27
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The Gardenator posted:To continue this, is ethanol free gas not widely available everywhere? Its typically $0.40 or more than ethanol blended fuel per gallon, but that is still much cheaper than the prices I see for premixed fuels. I'm in San Antonio and it's just starting to hit some of the Murphy's USA gas stations in the area. It's been available at some stations close to boating areas, but until recently really hasn't been a thing in my area. My first time seeing it at a pump was on a road trip on Oklahoma years ago.
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Apr 25, 2019 16:37
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The Gardenator posted:To continue this, is ethanol free gas not widely available everywhere? Its typically $0.40 or more than ethanol blended fuel per gallon, but that is still much cheaper than the prices I see for premixed fuels. It can be spotty. If you live in a coastal area, or an area with a lot of boating, you'll often find it as marine fuel, but inland it can be hit or miss. https://www.pure-gas.org/ is great for locating stations with ethanol free fuel though.
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Apr 25, 2019 16:40
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They are much harder to come by these days even in the northwest. Seattle has lost a few just in the last year.
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Apr 25, 2019 17:09
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| # ? May 31, 2024 22:44 |
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The Gardenator posted:To continue this, is ethanol free gas not widely available everywhere? Its typically $0.40 or more than ethanol blended fuel per gallon, but that is still much cheaper than the prices I see for premixed fuels. Ethanol is a real dumb idea that was supposed to be a good idea environmentally, then ironically turned into a horrible idea environmentally, but now it's entrenched politics. Even though pure gas is more at the pump, mileage tests have shown it's 20-25% more better mileage than ethanol blends.
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Apr 25, 2019 17:57
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