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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm going to my first proper timber yard tomorrow and I'm a lil excited! picking out the stringers?
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Apr 18, 2019 15:59
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Jaded Burnout posted:I'm going to my first proper timber yard tomorrow and I'm a lil excited! My wife and girls went with me on my first trip to the nice lumber yard last weekend and my wife got all wide-eyed like, "wait so you could just make a table out of ... THIS OR THIS? [pointing at large stacks of zebrawood and wormy maple and curly cherry]."
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Apr 18, 2019 16:01
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:picking out the stringers? yeah, and a sheet of ply for the risers, plus a couple of door linings to take home.
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Apr 18, 2019 16:08
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Jaded Burnout posted:Yeah I'm going down there specifically to pick out some boards and I've already called ahead and checked that they're OK with me then arranging delivery of those specific boards. A tip on stacking lumber that wasn't obvious to me: it's more important to make each layer as wide as the one beneath it, than it is to pack each layer as tightly as possible. If you pack each layer tightly, you will end up with a nasty pyramid instead of a nice rectangle.
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Apr 18, 2019 16:37
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, this whole cross-dowel thing is turning out to be way more of a pain just to get my hands on the hardware than I would have expected. McMaster-Carr has cross dowels, but only up to 1/4", which feels a little scrawny to me for this application. Home Depot and Lowes have even worse selection. The bolts of course are easy; any 3/8" 16TPI bolt would do the job fine. Out of curiosity, why do you need 10 instead of 8? Putting some in the headboard or something?
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Apr 18, 2019 16:59
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You don’t need the wrench. A standard 12 point socket will work on the square heads-I think a 7/16” or 3/8”? I use an impact wrench, but a plain ratchet works too. If the corners start to strip the 12 point socket won’t work and you have to rig up something square using the female end that’s square of a 3/8” adapter. Good to know about the wrench. And yeah, I want 10 because of the headboard. It's basically an extra rail with some curved boards running between it and the rail that supports the mattress on that side. I could probably get away with only a single bolt for the headboard if I permanently attached the two rails to a post, and then used the bed bolts to attach the post to the leg. But it feels cleaner and less work to just use an extra pair of bolts. (Oh yeah, and I misremembered the width of my rails -- they're 9/8", not 7/8")
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Apr 18, 2019 17:05
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hello woodworking thread, i want to build a table for my big green egg it will be stored outdoors, but kept under my awning so it wont get a lot of direct sunlight on it. I'm thinking something along the lines of this:   but i think i'll probably put a stainless steel top surface on it for ease of cleaning, like this:  i'd like this to last 10 years minimum but i dont think it deserves the cost of any sort of exotic wood. I'm not sure what kind of wood to use...i'm in the PNW so would cedar be a good option for durability and ability to show some nice grain? Prefer something red or could be stained red. thanks! OBAMNA PHONE fucked around with this message at 18:27 on Apr 18, 2019 |
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Apr 18, 2019 18:25
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Cedar and redwood are both good woods for exterior use. You can expect them to turn grey in the sunlight though.
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Apr 18, 2019 18:32
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Blessed serving board.  36” mesquite. Live edge. Hand forged iron handles.
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Apr 18, 2019 19:41
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Cedar and redwood are both good woods for exterior use. You can expect them to turn grey in the sunlight though. How do you suggest treating cedar for outdoor uses? I want to put up some new fenceposts and don't mind a weathered look but my area gets <10 inches of rain a year.
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Apr 18, 2019 21:29
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Blindeye posted:How do you suggest treating cedar for outdoor uses? I want to put up some new fenceposts and don't mind a weathered look but my area gets <10 inches of rain a year. It's naturally rot-resistant. In a dry environment I wouldn't expect any problems. You can stain or seal or paint it if you like, but the raw wood should last fine on its own.
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Apr 18, 2019 21:33
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Good to know about the wrench. And yeah, I want 10 because of the headboard. It's basically an extra rail with some curved boards running between it and the rail that supports the mattress on that side. I could probably get away with only a single bolt for the headboard if I permanently attached the two rails to a post, and then used the bed bolts to attach the post to the leg. But it feels cleaner and less work to just use an extra pair of bolts.  You think you need a bolt there until you find out how damned strong a bed bolted mortise and tenon is. Having one definitely won't hurt except that you'll have a bolt hole cover in kind of a funky place. Feenix posted:Blessed serving board.  Since there was some Festool chat earlier, do any of y'all own or have used a Domino? I'm all about traditional mortise and tenon joints for the most part, but may be doing some funky angled stuff soon where it seems like a domino would be very handy if they're all they're cracked up to be, but they're stupid expensive?
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Apr 19, 2019 01:22
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Hello wood thread, I need to cut some stuff with a circular saw and since I've only done this a few times I would like ideas how to make it reasonably straight and not remove any limbs. This is just a garden box so I don't give any particular shits about it looking perfect. My thought is to just cut straight across as is, saw on the flat side, then flip it and cut across again to take the other piece off. Is there a better way I should be doing this or should that work?
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Apr 19, 2019 01:48
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think you'll be in much better shape with a 9/8" rail. I'd stick with the 1/2" tenon and the extra meat on the cheeks should help prevent racking. I don't usually put a bolt in the headboard, it's either solid or glued up as an assembly with two arms that go into the post, and the headrail (same dims as the other rails) holds it together like this (apologies for badly instagrammed picture): Thanks as always for the advice! I went ahead and ordered 2 8-packs of cross dowels from Woodpecker. I'll try the fit without extra bolts for the headboard, and if it feels solid then I can omit them entirely and have a full pack of extra cross dowels for some future project. By "two arms that go into the post", I take it you mean that the headboard attaches to the legs with mortise and tenon joints, they're just dry joints without any fasteners directly holding them in place? And they stay in position because the rail is bolted in place, which in turn keeps the legs from moving to release the headboard. I'm musing over bolt hole cover designs that I can do myself out of wood. Something simple like a 2"x2"x1/2" block of wood with an ogee profile around the edges and a circular plug glued on the underside, sized to fit the bolt hole. I know there's purchaseable covers that look like metal medallions held in place with a screw, but I'm really not big on visible metal in my projects. Something that gently press-fits into place and can be pried out if the bed needs to be disassembled seems more my speed. Grand Fromage posted:Hello wood thread, I need to cut some stuff with a circular saw and since I've only done this a few times I would like ideas how to make it reasonably straight and not remove any limbs. It's not clear to me exactly what you want to cut, but the rule for making good cuts with the circular saw is basically just to clamp a straight edge that you can run the side of the saw's shoe along. Then just make sure the workpiece is supported at two points on both sides of the cut (so that when you cut through it, the wood doesn't flip away from you) and you should be good to go. You shouldn't need to flip the piece over to complete a cut; just adjust the saw's cut depth so it goes 1/8" deeper than the thickness of the board you're cutting. TooMuchAbstraction fucked around with this message at 01:56 on Apr 19, 2019 |
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Apr 19, 2019 01:54
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edit nvm misunderstood
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Apr 19, 2019 01:58
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Grand Fromage posted:Hello wood thread, I need to cut some stuff with a circular saw and since I've only done this a few times I would like ideas how to make it reasonably straight and not remove any limbs. Are you trying to cut that piece of OSB to be a bottom for the box? Get it up on some sawhorses (or other garden furniture or whatever), make sure the piece you're cutting off will fall away from the bigger piece. Clamp a 2x4 across the sheet to act as a fence for the saw to ride against. Make sure to keep in mind the 2x4 won't be clamped along your cut line because you need to account for the distance from the edge of the foot of your saw to the blade.
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Apr 19, 2019 03:24
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Grand Fromage posted:Hello wood thread, I need to cut some stuff with a circular saw and since I've only done this a few times I would like ideas how to make it reasonably straight and not remove any limbs. Yeah, that works. Cut slow and steady. If it's a right-handed saw, your body to the left, etc. Whatever you're using for a table or sawhorses, make sure the dropoff piece falls clear- i.e. you're not cutting between 2 sawhorses. If you've got it clamped to that box, then obviously your cut line needs blue sky below it....
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Apr 19, 2019 03:42
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think you'll be in much better shape with a 9/8" rail. I'd stick with the 1/2" tenon and the extra meat on the cheeks should help prevent racking. I don't usually put a bolt in the headboard, it's either solid or glued up as an assembly with two arms that go into the post, and the headrail (same dims as the other rails) holds it together like this (apologies for badly instagrammed picture): Dude, Idk about the Domino, never used one, but I really like your shop and especially that Crescent bandsaw. That's how old shop tool logos ought to look, like WWII bombers imo.
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Apr 19, 2019 03:45
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Mr. Mambold posted:Dude, Idk about the Domino, never used one, but I really like your shop and especially that Crescent bandsaw. That's how old shop tool logos ought to look, like WWII bombers imo. I love the modern European/Italian machinery, but it doesn’t have the style and the curves that good old American iron has. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Apr 19, 2019 |
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Apr 19, 2019 04:23
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Happy with my new plywood countertop (so far):
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Apr 19, 2019 05:22
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Hey, I made it by Easter. Yesterday I hauled it home from the workshop. Today I broke all the edges, applied finish (amber shellac; a coat of poly will be coming later; I ran out of time and don't want my house to stink while hosting Easter tomorrow), cut the legs to final length, and glued up the frame and attached the top with buttons. Busy fuckin' day. I'll write up a proper blog post for it later. Overall I'm real happy with this project. Flattening a 7'x3.5' surface with hand planes is a son of a bitch. Seats 6 comfortably and 8 with a little squeezing. Also fits our room dimensions far better than our previous table did. I'm eager to see how the cherry ages over the next couple of years in a brightly lit room.  Also bonus cat.
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Apr 21, 2019 01:39
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ColdPie posted:Hey, I made it by Easter. Yesterday I hauled it home from the workshop. Today I broke all the edges, applied finish (amber shellac; a coat of poly will be coming later; I ran out of time and don't want my house to stink while hosting Easter tomorrow), cut the legs to final length, and glued up the frame and attached the top with buttons. Busy fuckin' day. Props. That's a big old table you can be proud of.
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Apr 21, 2019 03:02
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That is a good-looking table, and it fits your chairs well. Nice work!
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Apr 21, 2019 03:11
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Also here to say the table is great. You should be proud.
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Apr 21, 2019 04:43
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 that's gorgeous.
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Apr 21, 2019 05:20
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ColdPie posted:Hey, I made it by Easter. Yesterday I hauled it home from the workshop. Today I broke all the edges, applied finish (amber shellac; a coat of poly will be coming later; I ran out of time and don't want my house to stink while hosting Easter tomorrow), cut the legs to final length, and glued up the frame and attached the top with buttons. Busy fuckin' day. Wonderful. You should be proud
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Apr 21, 2019 15:39
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Why didn't anyone tell me splitting and paring the cheeks off tenons was so fun? They probably won't fit worth a drat but hey, learning. *Edit*. Lol yeah they are way too loose. Good thing I started off with 3/4" tenons, can just switch to 1/2" and trim them down after doing the rest of the mortises. Bob Mundon fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Apr 22, 2019 |
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Apr 22, 2019 05:23
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What would yall pay for a good used bar clamp? I passed up 30+ at a garage sale years ago and found some again
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Apr 22, 2019 15:40
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It’s kind of amazing how much time a person can spend making an aesthetically pleasing solid block of wood. Having a gas fireplace installed in my basement, needed a mantel. If I wanted solid wood instead of a box, it was going to cost me $300-$600. But I know a guy, so I grabbed a $100 piece of walnut and cleaned it up myself. Forgot a full before pic, but here it is after running it over the jointer a few times and a couple light passes through the planer.  All cleaned up and sanded, ready for finishing:  The grain is clear but still has some nice figuring to it, should have a bit of chatoyancy once the finish is applied.  Final dimensions are 3.5” thick, 7” deep, and 52” long.
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Apr 22, 2019 16:22
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That is a sweet block. I did a herringbone tile fireplace surround for a piece of walnut just like that and it looked great
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Apr 22, 2019 16:32
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:What would yall pay for a good used bar clamp? I passed up 30+ at a garage sale years ago and found some again How long and what are they asking?  is good
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Apr 22, 2019 17:14
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Anyone have suggestions on good coping and fret saws? I am willing to spend more money to get something higher quality.
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Apr 22, 2019 17:21
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:That is a sweet block. I did a herringbone tile fireplace surround for a piece of walnut just like that and it looked great Nice, I can picture a surround like that, it bet it looks nice. In this case, I ripped out a wood burner that we used precisely once when our heat went out a couple winters ago. Here’s what it looked like before:  Why yes, that is veneer thickness stone attached directly to drywall. Except at the very bottom, where there were some black tiles attached to the drywall, maybe as part of an old surround, and the stone was attached to that. Anyhow, I totally gutted that.  New gas unit is already installed, they’re coming out this week to install the hearth and put some framing in, then the rest of the stone after that some time. Final thing will look like this:  The hearth will be shimmed up to overlap the new floating floor I’ll be installing. Went to the stone shop the other day, hearth was all done, pretty happy with that:  And this is the actual stone they’ll be using for the main body of the thing, which will be bumped out with a final thickness of about 6”:  It’s a big project but I’m excited.
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Apr 22, 2019 17:30
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Mr. Mambold posted:How long and what are they asking? They look to be ~4' but I was wrong, I think they are those orange pony pipe clamps not bar
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Apr 22, 2019 18:26
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I've been hunting a sander and a bandsaw on craigslist. Yesterday, I hit paydirt. For $200 I walked off with a benchtop table saw (small 3-wheeled Grizzly), a Grizzly 12inch disk sander, a shop fox drill press/oscillating sander (didn't know that existed), and the stand for them. I also got a free 1960s Craftsman radial arm saw. The RAS needs some work, but gently caress it, for free? I certainly won't mind doing a spit shine and seeing if it works well. It came with every accessory under the sun. Plus, Everton thrashed Man U. What a weekend. OH! And the weather turned around! I spent 7 hours playing with power tools, cleaning out the shop, and working on some raised garden beds! Absolutely wonderful. EDIT: @Bad Munki:  Nice!
Cannon_Fodder fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Apr 22, 2019 |
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Apr 22, 2019 19:20
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DevNull posted:Anyone have suggestions on good coping and fret saws? I am willing to spend more money to get something higher quality. I got the knew concepts and love it, but the only other I've tried is whatever home depot sells.
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Apr 22, 2019 20:28
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Anyone in the northwest know anything about this? 
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Apr 22, 2019 20:32
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Anyone in the northwest know anything about this? I've heard really good things, and that you need to be there really early to get the good deals. Although I'm not sure HOW early that really is.
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Apr 22, 2019 20:54
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Falco posted:I've heard really good things, and that you need to be there really early to get the good deals. Although I'm not sure HOW early that really is. Lol from their faq: How early should I get to the tent sale? As early as possible. We have a huge customer turnout for our tent sales and have had some customers come several days in advance to get in line. Friendships have been developed between many early arrivals over the years, with meals and stories shared as they wait collectively for the gates to open on tent sale morning. Early arrivals also get a sneak peek as we bring merchandise out to the tents. Some customers bring binoculars to help them “focus” in on the exact machine they are looking for in the tents.
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Apr 22, 2019 20:58
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Lol from their faq: they have people camping out in tents for a tent sale? sounds intense
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Apr 22, 2019 22:13
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