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GoodBee
Apr 8, 2004


Stoca Zola posted:

I think you'll get on better if you are searching for information for requirements of a specific species of fish because there are a lot of different environments they come from and different water chemistry due to different geography.

This sounds like the way to go. Thanks!

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Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Anyone else itt doing high tech planted with pressurized co2?

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Enos Cabell posted:

Anyone else itt doing high tech planted with pressurized co2?

Here. Nice way to go, but trying to find suppliers for diffusers etc in Canada has always sucked

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


I'm trying to talk myself either into or out of buying a Milwaukee MC122 pH controller right now. Seems like for $130ish it would be super useful, but I dunno. I worry about over gassing my fish and that would give me a lot of peace of mind.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Enos Cabell posted:

I'm trying to talk myself either into or out of buying a Milwaukee MC122 pH controller right now. Seems like for $130ish it would be super useful, but I dunno. I worry about over gassing my fish and that would give me a lot of peace of mind.

Ph controllers seem like a whole crazy thing to figure out. I think a quality's 2 stage regulator should be enough generally.

I know I've always just made sure I have decent surface agitation and plant the poo poo out of my tank in case something happens to give myself wider margins of error. Might be worth the investment Depending on the value of your fish though, mine are all pretty cheap community tank fish so my worst case still isn't too rough

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

If you have good KH doesn't that mostly buffer the pH anyways?

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
The Gourami that was sick and seemed to bounce back for a few days died suddenly. Poor guy was bloated despite not eating, and in the last hours he couldn't swim and would float or sink

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


VelociBacon posted:

If you have good KH doesn't that mostly buffer the pH anyways?

I think so, but I'm still trying to figure out how everything works. Still waiting on my kH test to show up, but this is what the water quality report for my city shows:

pH (in pH units)7.59
Total Alkalinity (CaCO3) 189 ppm
Total Hardness (CaCO3) (13 grains per gallon)223 ppm

So looking at about a 10.5 dKH which seems to be on the pretty high side. My rift lake cichlids love this water, but plants is a whole new ballgame for me.

BONGHITZ
Jan 1, 1970

Such wizardry, have you considered the humble WonderShell? (can you OD on wondershells?)

Mozi
Apr 4, 2004

Forms change so fast
Time is moving past
Memory is smoke
Gonna get wider when I die
Nap Ghost

VelociBacon posted:

Okay so I have 4 male amano shrimp, what the hell is this because it looks like a berried shrimp to me:


Yeah that's berried. But amanos only reproduce successfully in brackish water so there'll be no babies anyways.

Stoca Zola
Jun 28, 2008

Phi230 posted:

The Gourami that was sick and seemed to bounce back for a few days died suddenly. Poor guy was bloated despite not eating, and in the last hours he couldn't swim and would float or sink

Aw, that sucks Phi - but I guess that confirms dropsy due to liver/kidney failure, it's really common for them to seem to bounce back right before the end. Once it gets to that stage there really isn't any cure :(

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007

Enos Cabell posted:

Anyone else itt doing high tech planted with pressurized co2?

I'm using pressurized CO2. What makes a tank high tech?

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

DeadlyMuffin posted:

I'm using pressurized CO2. What makes a tank high tech?



I think just pressurized CO2. Maybe with a regulator/timer programmed up technically?

(Nice tank)

Luneshot
Mar 10, 2014

drat, that's a gorgeous setup. I should post some pics of my (low-tech) shrimp tanks when I get home.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007

w00tmonger posted:

I think just pressurized CO2. Maybe with a regulator/timer programmed up technically?

(Nice tank)

Thanks! The wood is starting to get some algae growth but otherwise I'm really happy with it. I really wasn't sure about the hex, but I like it.

The regulator is a welding regulator off eBay with a solenoid and needle valve cobbled on. It works, but doesn't feel super high tech :-P

DeadlyMuffin fucked around with this message at 22:54 on May 16, 2019

Luneshot
Mar 10, 2014

Shrimp Tank: 5.5 gallons. A bunch of red cherries, a single Amano, and an irritating number of bladder snails. Plants trimmed a few days ago.


Other Tank: 10 gallons. A single neon tetra, survivor of many mistakes. Also some shrimp, a bunch of Amanos, more bladder snails, a nerite, and an assassin snail.


Lighting looks funky because of the ever-present duckweed.

gay picnic defence
Oct 5, 2009


I'M CONCERNED ABOUT A NUMBER OF THINGS
Is there something I can do to speed up the growth of moss in my tank that won't upset my fish? I've got no idea what species the moss is, the two clumps came from rocks I found in a mountain stream around here. I tied them to a bit of wood and while the original pieces are looking a bit lovely I can see there's a little bit of new growth and fine green root-things starting to snake over the wood.

It's going to look loving sick when it's fully covered, it's just that at the current rate it could take years and I'm impatient.

Synthbuttrange
May 6, 2007

Unless it's java moss they're generally slow growin.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

gay picnic defence posted:

Is there something I can do to speed up the growth of moss in my tank that won't upset my fish? I've got no idea what species the moss is, the two clumps came from rocks I found in a mountain stream around here. I tied them to a bit of wood and while the original pieces are looking a bit lovely I can see there's a little bit of new growth and fine green root-things starting to snake over the wood.

It's going to look loving sick when it's fully covered, it's just that at the current rate it could take years and I'm impatient.

Basically adding CO2 is about it assuming you're already fertilizing the tank.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Guy selling 180 gallon tank, 90g sump, and stand for $100 Canadian

So cheap but so hard to find space for something like that. Dudes Facebook profile is him taking a picture of an envelope full of bundles of cash too so it feels so shady

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

w00tmonger posted:

Guy selling 180 gallon tank, 90g sump, and stand for $100 Canadian

So cheap but so hard to find space for something like that. Dudes Facebook profile is him taking a picture of an envelope full of bundles of cash too so it feels so shady

Surrey?

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Calgary

Stoca Zola
Jun 28, 2008

I started emptying fish out of my wet shelf tank this weekend in preparation for draining it and moving it, and it's been an absolute clown car of sterbai corys. Feels criminal to have been keeping so many fish in the one tank but I had no idea it was that bad. I never counted the fry going in, it was hard to see due to the thick plant cover and I have never had issues in that tank no matter how lazy I got with water changes. I just assumed all three of my 15 gallon grow out tanks had about the same number of fish in but this was way more crowded than I thought was possible. I have a mass of hydrilla in there filling up maybe the top 2 thirds of the tank so I think that must have been helping to keep the tank stable. It only has 2 sponges and a HOB for filtration but as well as that it does have a very mature substrate which has gone through 3 or 4 different tank configurations. I think what I will do is not break the tank completely down and instead empty out and move the bare bottom hospital tank which currently only has guppies in it and reuse that tank's stand as it should be the same size. It would be nice to preserve that mature substrate, tidy up the plants and have a tank ready to go for shrimp or growing out fry or whatever. Anyway right now the fish are spread out between three tanks and it looks way more reasonable.

Resting Lich Face
Feb 21, 2019


This case of an intraperitoneal zucchini is unusual, and does raise questions as to how hard one has to push a blunt vegetable to perforate the rectum.

w00tmonger posted:

Guy selling 180 gallon tank, 90g sump, and stand for $100 Canadian

So cheap but so hard to find space for something like that. Dudes Facebook profile is him taking a picture of an envelope full of bundles of cash too so it feels so shady

Just sell your couch. More tank room.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Resting Lich Face posted:

Just sell your couch. More tank room.

The issue is more 180 gallons of weight being supported by anything other than concrete

BONGHITZ
Jan 1, 1970

My male guppy has grown chesty and a neon tetra has begun the dance of death.

oversteer
Jun 6, 2005

SA I need help.

I have inherited the contents of my brother's fishtank. Two catfish, some tetra and danio

It was a tropical tank, with a heater set to 30c/86f, but the water didn't feel very warm when I chased the fish about

He died a few days ago and I have no idea what state the fish or the water is in. I have saved about 60 litres / 15 us gallons of piss-yellow tankwater. I couldn't move the tank, as it was huge, so I need to find one locally today. There is a grimy filter and some flakes. Water is currently 22c/71f without a heater. What do I do next?

e: also I read somewhere to keep catfish separate as they generate some sort of mad poison when stressed. When can I move them back in with the others?

oversteer fucked around with this message at 16:21 on May 22, 2019

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


How large are the catfish? Have any pictures? Advice hinges pretty heavily on type of fish.

Stoca Zola
Jun 28, 2008

oversteer posted:

I have inherited the contents of my brother's fishtank. Two catfish, some tetra and danio. It was a tropical tank, with a heater set to 30c/86f, but the water didn't feel very warm when I chased the fish about

Some heaters aren't well calibrated, I would have said 30 was too hot for these fish but the heater might have been set taking that into account (or it could just be broken). 22 is a little cold, but not dangerously so and will do in the short term. I'd consider 22 to be sub-tropical, you probably want to aim for 24-26 depending on your specific fish. You want to aim for around 1 watt per litre of fishtank, round up if you live somewhere cold or round down if you live somewhere warm. Usually you can get heaters in 50w increments, so I've seen 50, 100, 150, 200, 300 watts for example. For a 200litre tank I think you're better off with 2 100w heaters though.

quote:

He died a few days ago
Wow sorry to hear that!

quote:

and I have no idea what state the fish or the water is in. I have saved about 60 litres / 15 us gallons of piss-yellow tankwater. I couldn't move the tank, as it was huge, so I need to find one locally today. There is a grimy filter and some flakes. Water is currently 22c/71f without a heater. What do I do next?

e: also I read somewhere to keep catfish separate as they generate some sort of mad poison when stressed. When can I move them back in with the others?

The water itself won't have a ton of beneficial bacteria in it. It could be yellow due to neglect (dissolved organics) but it could just as easily be from dissolved tannins which are beneficial to fish - if the original tank had driftwood in that is likely to be the cause. The filter's griminess in part is what is required to help process the fish's wastes. Try to keep it wet if you can, don't clean it in tap water, even just keep it running in your piss water might be okay to keep the bacteria alive. As a basic starting point you want to work out what size tank is suitable to hold the fish, and read about the nitrogen cycle to understand how to keep the fish alive in a new tank. If you can identify which tetras, danios and catfish (or even if you just guess) you might get some idea from https://www.aqadvisor.com on what size tank you need, and if you are interested in keeping more fish it can help you plan to make sure you have capacity for any future additions. The catfish could be bristlenoses (ancistrus), some other kind of pleco, some kind of cuckoo catfish or other synodontis, google image search should help you identify it. Almost every catfish has an amount of venom, but not all of them "soil" the water and the ones that do can easily poison themselves. I would say if you aren't physically messing with the fish ie trying to tickle it or net it, it isn't going to be releasing poison.

Things you will definitely need:
water conditioner/dechlorinator - seachem prime is strongly recommended. This will treat chlorine in your tap water to make the fish safe.
appropriately sized tank but even a big plastic tub is fine in the short term.
heater and floating thermometer to doublecheck the heater's setting
appropriately sized filter with biological media
Some kind of bacterial additive because you've got mature fish going into a not mature tank
Some way to get water in and out of your tank (new buckets not used for anything else but fishkeeping, gravel vac/siphon, etc)

If you're lucky you might be able to find something local second hand that has been or still is running and has wet, alive filter media, that could save you some hassles.

Things to worry about later:
Food

I strongly recommend don't feed the fish anything yet, they can go days without food and it will just add pollution to the situation and they'll produce wastes that you might not have a way of dealing with. Catfish often prefer wafers to flakes depending on what type of fish.

Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 17:25 on May 22, 2019

Phi230
Feb 2, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
My shrimp are moulting! Should I leave the shells in or take them out?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Phi230 posted:

My shrimp are moulting! Should I leave the shells in or take them out?

I leave mine in for a couple days then remove them. This gives them time to pick at the molt for mineral supplementation and still allows you to remove them before they're falling apart. I've never seen an ammonia spike from them and I have a 5g tank so you'd think it would happen if that were a concern. Make sure not to do a water change immediately after they molt.

oversteer
Jun 6, 2005

Stoca Zola posted:

lots of great stuff

thanks for this. Yeah it was a shock but we weren't close for many reasons. Died at 46 with nothing except two dogs and some fish.

so we went to the shop today and picked up, after advice, a 55 litre tank with all new kit (the old electricals were in a bad state, exposed wires etc). I have mixed some treated tap water and old tank water in about 50/50 mix and have set the thermostat to match the 22 degrees that the 'holding tanks' are at, and have been all day.

Should be up to temp in an hour and I'll start transferring them.

iPhone isn't the best at fast fish photography but ..

About 3cm long


same


a bristle nose catfish apparently

ChickenMedium
Sep 2, 2001
Forum Veteran And Professor Emeritus of Condiment Studies

oversteer posted:

so we went to the shop today and picked up, after advice, a 55 litre tank with all new kit (the old electricals were in a bad state, exposed wires etc). I have mixed some treated tap water and old tank water in about 50/50 mix and have set the thermostat to match the 22 degrees that the 'holding tanks' are at, and have been all day.

I suggest getting some live plants. I'm a big believer in planted aquariums generally, but your tank isn't going to be cycled so having live plants will help absorb some of the waste your fish are putting into the water.

schwein11
Oct 13, 2009



I've been derelict in posting since my pond thawed out this spring. Check my post history for year one of pond ownership - basically bought a house with a pond with goldfish in it, somehow didn't manage to kill said goldfish, even added one (a Comet) at the insistence of my kids, and then winterized the pond in the fall. I'm in northern Ohio, so some portion of the pond water froze for pretty much all winter, but I was told the water was deep enough that the fish would be fine in the unfrozen portion below.

Fast forward to this spring, once I was sure we weren't going to get any more freezing weather, I popped the screen (which was put there in the fall to prevent leaves falling into the pond) off the pond and all of the mature fish were still alive and appeared healthy (four mature goldfish). There was a fry in the pond that I found when I winterized it, but I have not seen him yet and am afraid he didn't make it. I think if I find myself in that situation again this fall I will try putting the fry in a tank inside for the winter (and it hopefully would then acclimatize itself back to the pond in the spring). One of my plants also may not have made it through the winter - I had four large potted plants that based upon prior owner's instructions I trimmed and kept on the bottom of the pond through the winter, three of them appear to now be doing well, but one (a water lily) thus far hasn't popped above the dirt (a second water lily made it fine however).

Last weekend I made it out to the specialty pond store near my place and bought some annuals that help keep the water clear - some floating water hyacinths and another thing that i don't know the name of but looks like seaweed that hangs around at the bottom of the pond. Both of those helped clear up the water last year and I'm hoping for similar results this year. While at the pond store, my kids of course convinced me to add another fish - a Shubunkin that so far seems to be doing well in the pond (they look really cool too - and different from the others I have).

The algae situation was getting a little out of hand a last week and my pH was pretty high (9) so I'm also adding some pond store suggested stuff to decrease pH and clarify water, which I never really did last year so I'm a bit nervous about.

I don't have any new pictures to share, but I'll try to get some soon.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004


Rainbows showed up today. 3 of the 24 didn't make it unfortunately, but everyone else seems healthy.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

schwein11 posted:

I've been derelict in posting since my pond thawed out this spring. Check my post history for year one of pond ownership - basically bought a house with a pond with goldfish in it, somehow didn't manage to kill said goldfish, even added one (a Comet) at the insistence of my kids, and then winterized the pond in the fall. I'm in northern Ohio, so some portion of the pond water froze for pretty much all winter, but I was told the water was deep enough that the fish would be fine in the unfrozen portion below.

Fast forward to this spring, once I was sure we weren't going to get any more freezing weather, I popped the screen (which was put there in the fall to prevent leaves falling into the pond) off the pond and all of the mature fish were still alive and appeared healthy (four mature goldfish). There was a fry in the pond that I found when I winterized it, but I have not seen him yet and am afraid he didn't make it. I think if I find myself in that situation again this fall I will try putting the fry in a tank inside for the winter (and it hopefully would then acclimatize itself back to the pond in the spring). One of my plants also may not have made it through the winter - I had four large potted plants that based upon prior owner's instructions I trimmed and kept on the bottom of the pond through the winter, three of them appear to now be doing well, but one (a water lily) thus far hasn't popped above the dirt (a second water lily made it fine however).

Last weekend I made it out to the specialty pond store near my place and bought some annuals that help keep the water clear - some floating water hyacinths and another thing that i don't know the name of but looks like seaweed that hangs around at the bottom of the pond. Both of those helped clear up the water last year and I'm hoping for similar results this year. While at the pond store, my kids of course convinced me to add another fish - a Shubunkin that so far seems to be doing well in the pond (they look really cool too - and different from the others I have).

The algae situation was getting a little out of hand a last week and my pH was pretty high (9) so I'm also adding some pond store suggested stuff to decrease pH and clarify water, which I never really did last year so I'm a bit nervous about.

I don't have any new pictures to share, but I'll try to get some soon.

What do they eat all winter? Crazy.

Stoca Zola
Jun 28, 2008

VelociBacon posted:

What do they eat all winter? Crazy.

They become dormant and don't eat, they can't digest anything anyway once the temperature goes under I think it's 10 degrees? So if you fed them at that temperature it would rot in their guts and kill them. Fish don't really store food as fat, I think they just grow or stop growing depending on how the food supply is. A starved fish will become wasted looking but will bulk out again when fed but I think they gain and lose muscle not fat. In winter they're not really growing or moving all that much, just waiting around for it to warm up again.

quote:

Oversteer's fish photos
In that first picture the bigger fish with the black tipped fin and vague hint at a black spot on the tail looks like a rosy barb or some other barb, and the smaller dude with the black tail looks like a platy. Really not sure what the others are (I can see another tail spot of a barb in one of the next pictures) but the bristlenose is a spot on ID, as a rasping fish I think they will require a piece of driftwood to munch on to help their digestion. They are likely to be your biggest poopers and waste makers but a 55g sounds fine to get a good amount of dilution. Rosy barbs are a subtropical fish, they can do fine in both tropical temperatures and slightly cooler but are quite likely to eat plants you add to the tank, hornwort or Anubias or java fern might be safe though.

Stoca Zola
Jun 28, 2008

Oh yeah! My avatar is a rosy barb in good condition, their scales get a real shine to them. When they are stressed the orange dulls down and the black becomes paler but they are a really tough fish so should come good I reckon.

oversteer
Jun 6, 2005

well they all survived one night in the new tank :toot:

I appear to have
- Rosy barbs
- Olive danios
- Platys
- and two Bristlenose catfish, who hid in a pot all day then crept out at night to explore

Seems that about 24c is a good range for everyone, so will bring the tank up to that over the next day or so.

There are some tiny platys and I see they are livebearing so I guess they’re recent. Wonder if we’ll get any more! Next step is to add some more plants and get some proper food, I have flakes but i guess a wider variety can’t hurt (and the catfish will need something that drops down to them?)

Thanks all again.

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

The plecos will like algae/vegetable wafers which are cheap.

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