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Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer

incogneato posted:

The amount you contribute is pre-tax (i.e. reduces your taxable income). You're effectively getting a discount equal your marginal tax rate. Just make sure you don't contribute more than you know you'll spend, as you already noted.

Nowhere near as flexible or good as an HSA, but certainly not terrible.
It's really best if you have, like, a prescription you know you're going to have to pay for (like insulin) or child care, or something like a pregnancy coming up (good luck getting the hospital to tell you how much that's going to cost, though).

For the most part, yeah, they're a loving ripoff. And for the love of God make sure you save each and every one of your receipts. They will use any excuse to gently caress you on it, and default deny even things that come from doctors.

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howdoesishotweb
Nov 21, 2002

literally this big posted:

Hello everyone, I'm about to get custody of a Merrill Lynch brokerage account, and I could use some help understanding everything I need to know about it. It's full of $BAC that my grandmother gifted to me >20 years ago, and has been DRIPing since then. I was recently sent an account statement that shows all the shares that were purchased and all the cash in the account, and I could use some help understanding a few things.

If I were to sell the $BAC, I'd need to know the cost basis to determine my gains (or losses) & taxes owed, correct? The statement shows all the shares in the account, when they were purchased, and their cost basis, so I could use that information to determine my gains & taxes.. However, this only applies to shares purchased after 2000. All the shares purchased pre-2000 have their Date Acquired, Unit Cost Basis, Total Cost Basis, and Unrealized Gains/(Losses) columns listed as "N/A":

Were these in her name, passed to you? If so you don’t have to pay gains on growth that occurs before inheriting. Cost basis step up.

If they were in your name all along and you were just made custodian, I would ask an independent accountant. They may not even charge you. It’s not difficult to look up a historical share price, but I’m not sure if the IRS will just accept an estimate for the day. E: or just call the IRS directly, the wait times suck but they’re usually helpful.

howdoesishotweb fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Jun 10, 2019

howdoesishotweb
Nov 21, 2002

Sab0921 posted:

My wife has an FSA available from her new employer - it seems like a ridiculous scam - what is the underlying point? You get to contribute your money to this account that disappears if you don't use it?

Some FSAs allow dependent care use. We used it for kids daycare, and $5000 was a guarantee. Easy couple grand tax savings.

100 HOGS AGREE
Oct 13, 2007
Grimey Drawer
the FSA at my work lets your roll over 250 bucks if you dont spend it all. I still don't put any money in it.

chupacabron
Oct 30, 2004


Guinness posted:

Bonuses are taxed as ordinary income. No different than your wages when tax time comes around.

They are withheld differently as an artifact of how most withholding calculations work. Between federal and state I’m guessing 13% is too low, though. Would have to know more details.

Well that's a slight relief, if it's taxed as regular income I'll save a couple bucks as compared to the flat 35% that I thought was the case. Thanks!

BarbarianElephant
Feb 12, 2015
The fairy of forgiveness has removed your red text.
Don’t get an FSA. The money you put in it evaporates if you lose your job.

Moneyball
Jul 11, 2005

It's a problem you think we need to explain ourselves.
I'm currently living in the Boston area, renting a room for cheap, and expenses low enough to save about 70% of my take-home pay. I'm toying with the idea of buying a home or condo and renting out one (or more) of the rooms to help pay the mortgage. But now that the standard deduction is high enough that I wouldn't itemize, is there a point? I don't hate where I live or having roommates, it's mostly financial. Would it be smarter to just keep the lower expenses and invest, or take the plunge? I can always use that money to buy in the future.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Simpsons Reference posted:

I'm currently living in the Boston area, renting a room for cheap, and expenses low enough to save about 70% of my take-home pay. I'm toying with the idea of buying a home or condo and renting out one (or more) of the rooms to help pay the mortgage. But now that the standard deduction is high enough that I wouldn't itemize, is there a point? I don't hate where I live or having roommates, it's mostly financial. Would it be smarter to just keep the lower expenses and invest, or take the plunge? I can always use that money to buy in the future.

This is one of those areas where a lot of people have personal value systems that make giving advice tricky. Is this purely a financial decision, or do you want to own a home? There's a lot of work involved in home maintenance (and buying a "move-in-ready" home just means that it'll take a little longer before you realize what's wrong with the place; every home needs maintenance). Do you want to be a landlord?

If you care solely about the financial aspects of things then I'd recommend sticking to an investment that doesn't demand as much personal time.

literally this big
Jan 10, 2007



Here comes
the Squirtle Squad!

literally this big posted:

Hello everyone, I'm about to get custody of a Merrill Lynch brokerage account, and I could use some help understanding everything I need to know about it. It's full of $BAC that my grandmother gifted to me >20 years ago, and has been DRIPing since then. I was recently sent an account statement that shows all the shares that were purchased and all the cash in the account, and I could use some help understanding a few things.

If I were to sell the $BAC, I'd need to know the cost basis to determine my gains (or losses) & taxes owed, correct? The statement shows all the shares in the account, when they were purchased, and their cost basis, so I could use that information to determine my gains & taxes.. However, this only applies to shares purchased after 2000. All the shares purchased pre-2000 have their Date Acquired, Unit Cost Basis, Total Cost Basis, and Unrealized Gains/(Losses) columns listed as "N/A":




When I called my ML financial advisor and asked to be sent a statement, they said that they could only look up that info back to 2000, and that they couldn't look up anything further back than that. So how the heck do I get the cost basis on those pre-2000 shares?

To be honest, the advisor that I've been working with hasn't been very helpful throughout this process, and I can't wait to just get everything transferred to my Vanguard account. But I need to get is transferred from a Merrill Lynch to a Merrill Edge account first, and before that I need to get all the cost basis info.

howdoesishotweb posted:

Were these in her name, passed to you? If so you don’t have to pay gains on growth that occurs before inheriting. Cost basis step up.

If they were in your name all along and you were just made custodian, I would ask an independent accountant. They may not even charge you. It’s not difficult to look up a historical share price, but I’m not sure if the IRS will just accept an estimate for the day. E: or just call the IRS directly, the wait times suck but they’re usually helpful.
It's the latter. I believe they've been mine all along, but I'm just now getting custody of them.

So this isn't something I should expect Merrill Lynch to be able to look up? It seems like pretty pertinent information for my brokerage / financial advisor to know.

nelson
Apr 12, 2009
College Slice
If you can get the dates but not the prices, the IRS will accept the published closing price for those dates as an estimate. Technically they’re not “accepting” anything, they just use what you give them, unless there is an audit.

If there is an audit, you should be completely honest and tell the auditor you have no idea what the actual price was, and the exact information wasn’t available, but you tried your best by using the closing price on the day they were bought.

howdoesishotweb
Nov 21, 2002

literally this big posted:

It's the latter. I believe they've been mine all along, but I'm just now getting custody of them.

So this isn't something I should expect Merrill Lynch to be able to look up? It seems like pretty pertinent information for my brokerage / financial advisor to know.

Incompetence in the non fiduciary financial services industry? I’m shocked :monocle:

The closing prices are google-able. Probably easier this way.

Is there a reason you want to sell?

literally this big
Jan 10, 2007



Here comes
the Squirtle Squad!

nelson posted:

If you can get the dates but not the prices, the IRS will accept the published closing price for those dates as an estimate.
Any idea on how to go about doing this? I'll give my advisor another call, but I have a feeling they're going to give me the same non-answer. If that doesn't work I could ask my parents if they know anything about it, but they're probably just as clueless as I am. Grandma passed away recently, so I can't exactly ask her.

howdoesishotweb posted:

Is there a reason you want to sell?
I'd like to transfer them to my Vanguard account and then sell them to max my Roth IRA, pay down student loans, tax-loss harvest, and diversify the rest into VTSAX.

A few more questions:
1) Most of the post-2000 shares (and probably many of the pre-2000 ones) are currently losses so that means I wouldn't have to pay any capital gains tax on those, correct?
2) How exactly does tax-loss harvesting work? Is that something the IRS / brokerage keeps track of, or is that something I need to keep track of myself and keep for my records, to then apply to future capital gains?
3) Seriously, what do I do if I can't find out at least the dates of the pre-2000 lots?

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

literally this big posted:

Any idea on how to go about doing this? I'll give my advisor another call, but I have a feeling they're going to give me the same non-answer. If that doesn't work I could ask my parents if they know anything about it, but they're probably just as clueless as I am. Grandma passed away recently, so I can't exactly ask her.

I'd like to transfer them to my Vanguard account and then sell them to max my Roth IRA, pay down student loans, tax-loss harvest, and diversify the rest into VTSAX.

A few more questions:
1) Most of the post-2000 shares (and probably many of the pre-2000 ones) are currently losses so that means I wouldn't have to pay any capital gains tax on those, correct?
2) How exactly does tax-loss harvesting work? Is that something the IRS / brokerage keeps track of, or is that something I need to keep track of myself and keep for my records, to then apply to future capital gains?
3) Seriously, what do I do if I can't find out at least the dates of the pre-2000 lots?

1) correct
2) you should ask the long term thread. I believe you are limited to $3k per year
3) probably ask an accountant (honestly I would just use the historical date and "risk" it)

DeceasedHorse
Nov 11, 2005

BarbarianElephant posted:

Don’t get an FSA. The money you put in it evaporates if you lose your job.

You can still file claims incurred before you lost your job. Also, it you quit mid year you don’t have to pay your company back, even if you’ve used more than has been deducted from your paycheck.

Like most of the American healthcare system, medical FSA rules are arcane and silly, but if you have a known expense you can make them work.

Dependent care FSAs, of course work differently because of course they do.

literally this big
Jan 10, 2007



Here comes
the Squirtle Squad!

spwrozek posted:

3) probably ask an accountant (honestly I would just use the historical date and "risk" it)
I have a lawyer cousin that practices estate planning & tax law, so maybe they'd have some idea what to do here. But any number of those shares may have been gifted and/or purchased at any point from 1992 to 2000, so right now I have literally nothing to go off of.

Magnetic North
Dec 15, 2008

Beware the Forest's Mushrooms
So, my girlfriend is getting an inheritance of around 20k. We want to have it mostly invested, but with IRA limits, I wasn't sure what else to do with it in the interim. Any suggestions?

Luigi Thirty
Apr 30, 2006

Emergency confection port.

I have $10,000 in Apple stock that I’ve had since I was 8 (the cost basis is about $1000) and $6,000 in leftover credit card debt from moving across the country for a new job. I’m 28 and make $75k in Chicago now with $35k in a 401k and $2000 in savings.

Do I cash out the stock to pay off the CC debt? :ohdear:

Hoodwinker
Nov 7, 2005

Luigi Thirty posted:

I have $10,000 in Apple stock that I’ve had since I was 8 (the cost basis is about $1000) and $6,000 in leftover credit card debt from moving across the country for a new job. I’m 28 and make $75k in Chicago now with $35k in a 401k and $2000 in savings.

Do I cash out the stock to pay off the CC debt? :ohdear:
Let's flip this around: would you put $6k on a CC to buy Apple stock? I know the cost basis complicates things a little bit, but the principle remains.

Luigi Thirty
Apr 30, 2006

Emergency confection port.


Hoodwinker posted:

Let's flip this around: would you put $6k on a CC to buy Apple stock? I know the cost basis complicates things a little bit, but the principle remains.

Well when you put it that way, it’s obvious: don’t charge myself 18% because numbers in account look pretty.

Hoodwinker
Nov 7, 2005

Luigi Thirty posted:

Well when you put it that way, it’s obvious: don’t charge myself 18% because numbers in account look pretty.
Ding ding ding. The good news is you'll pay the LTCG rate on those gains so it'll only be taxed at 15%, for a total hit of around $1,350.

Xenoborg
Mar 10, 2007

Hoodwinker posted:

Ding ding ding. The good news is you'll pay the LTCG rate on those gains so it'll only be taxed at 15%, for a total hit of around $1,350.

Even better, if had lower income this year and are in the 12% marginal bracket (AGI 39,475 for single), you might not own any tax at all on them!

GoGoGadgetChris
Mar 18, 2010

i powder a
granite monument
in a soundless flash

showering the grass
with molten drops of
its gold inlay

sending smoking
chips of stone
skipping into the fog

Hoodwinker posted:

Ding ding ding. The good news is you'll pay the LTCG rate on those gains so it'll only be taxed at 15%, for a total hit of around $1,350.

You pay (any applicable) State-level LTCG too, right? I sold off a fuckload of stocks and was advised to hold on to 25% for taxes.

Hoodwinker
Nov 7, 2005

GoGoGadgetChris posted:

You pay (any applicable) State-level LTCG too, right? I sold off a fuckload of stocks and was advised to hold on to 25% for taxes.
In Illinois it would just be the flat 4.95% state income tax, so it's looking like that would up it to $1,796.

Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer

Luigi Thirty posted:

I have $10,000 in Apple stock that I’ve had since I was 8 (the cost basis is about $1000) and $6,000 in leftover credit card debt from moving across the country for a new job. I’m 28 and make $75k in Chicago now with $35k in a 401k and $2000 in savings.

Do I cash out the stock to pay off the CC debt? :ohdear:

Other question is: is the credit card debt on a 0% entry year credit card (or can it be moved to one), or is it accruing interest?

Magnetic North
Dec 15, 2008

Beware the Forest's Mushrooms
So forever ago, I asked for help getting the simplest credit card possible. I never got off my rear end to do that, but in the interim, I've been trying to decipher my lovely current card's website to give me categories and let me see where my money is going, and it's basically impossible. At the time, Duckman2008 kindly recommended the Citi Double Cash card, but does anyone with a Citi card know if there are any built in budgeting tools? If there aren't, are there decent and simple (non-rewards) cards that do have them?

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS
Don't rely on the card for that, use Mint to see where your money is going.

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Double cash is good and gives you a year break down. For tracking mint or personal capital.

PoorUser
Oct 12, 2008
I have an old student loan of 5.5k @ 3.5% and the ability to pay it all off now. But, I don't have much good credit to speak of.

Will it have a positive effect on my credit compared to paying it all off now to instead pay off all but $500 to $1k of the student loan and continue making minimum payments? I mean a positive effect in the sense that I am not closing an old credit line and can also use this to raise my percentage of on time payments (this part of my credit profile needs help).

Or would it better to just pay it all now and save myself some interest?

Thanks so much.

PoorUser fucked around with this message at 13:38 on Jun 28, 2019

Medullah
Aug 14, 2003

FEAR MY SHARK ROCKET IT REALLY SUCKS AND BLOWS

PoorUser posted:

I have an old student loan of 5.5k @ 3.5% and the ability to pay it all off now. But, I don't have much good credit to speak of.

Will it have a positive effect on my credit compared to paying it all off now to instead pay off all but $500 to $1k of the student loan and continue making minimum payments? I mean a positive effect in the sense that I am not closing an old credit line and can also use this to raise my percentage of on time payments (this part of my credit profile needs help).

Or would it better to just pay it all now and save myself some interest?

Thanks so much.

If you pay it off now, will you still be able to live comfortably with a decent chunk of savings?

If you don't pay it off, will you be able to get more than a 3.5% return on the money if you invest it elsewhere?

EAT FASTER!!!!!!
Sep 21, 2002

Legendary.


:hampants::hampants::hampants:

PoorUser posted:

I have an old student loan of 5.5k @ 3.5% and the ability to pay it all off now. But, I don't have much good credit to speak of.

Will it have a positive effect on my credit compared to paying it all off now to instead pay off all but $500 to $1k of the student loan and continue making minimum payments? I mean a positive effect in the sense that I am not closing an old credit line and can also use this to raise my percentage of on time payments (this part of my credit profile needs help).

Or would it better to just pay it all now and save myself some interest?

Thanks so much.

What do you need the credit for?

PoorUser
Oct 12, 2008

Medullah posted:

If you pay it off now, will you still be able to live comfortably with a decent chunk of savings?

If you don't pay it off, will you be able to get more than a 3.5% return on the money if you invest it elsewhere?

I could live comfortably, yes. I am not sure about the answer to the rate of return but I will be throwing it into a Vanguard mutual fund if I don't use it to pay debt down.

EAT FASTER!!!!!! posted:

What do you need the credit for?

I don't have a credit card at the moment which would be good to keep for emergencies and also I want to purchase a house in the next 2 to 3 years if life permits.

PoorUser fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Jun 28, 2019

Duckman2008
Jan 6, 2010

TFW you see Flyers goaltending.
Grimey Drawer
The downside to the economy is upon us. I got an email from Ally:

“Your interest rate is going from 2.2 to 2.1.”


Nooooooooooooooooo

Magnetic North
Dec 15, 2008

Beware the Forest's Mushrooms

Medullah posted:

Don't rely on the card for that, use Mint to see where your money is going.

So, I started looking into this. I thought it was like a calorie tracker where I tell it where my money went, but I guess you give it your login information and it does it automatically. That sounds neat, but I'm paranoid if that is secure. Has anyone tried using it just on credit cards and not bank accounts so you can see the money going out? I mean, if Estonian hackers get my credit card, that sucks, but if they get my bank info, that sucks a whole lot more. I only have one income stream, so I could probably manually add the few things that don't go through a credit card (rent, student loans).

Fezziwig
Jun 7, 2011

Magnetic North posted:

So, I started looking into this. I thought it was like a calorie tracker where I tell it where my money went, but I guess you give it your login information and it does it automatically. That sounds neat, but I'm paranoid if that is secure. Has anyone tried using it just on credit cards and not bank accounts so you can see the money going out? I mean, if Estonian hackers get my credit card, that sucks, but if they get my bank info, that sucks a whole lot more. I only have one income stream, so I could probably manually add the few things that don't go through a credit card (rent, student loans).

Mint is amazingly secure and only grants read access to your accounts. I don't believe there is a way for someone to get access to your Mint account, and through that, access to any of your other accounts, as long as they don't have the same log in info.

100 HOGS AGREE
Oct 13, 2007
Grimey Drawer
definitely use two factor auth tho

spwrozek
Sep 4, 2006

Sail when it's windy

Password manager also a good idea.

Magnetic North
Dec 15, 2008

Beware the Forest's Mushrooms

100 HOGS AGREE posted:

definitely use two factor auth tho
As far as I know, my bank does not offer this, at least not for sign in, just for password changes. I don't use their app, so I could be wrong. I am meaning to get a new bank (probably Ally?) but laaaazy.

spwrozek posted:

Password manager also a good idea.
This I have. I use Password Safe, so I should generally be decently okay as far as normal drive-by-hacks. It's just data breaches that get me worried. if Mint loses all that info somehow. Obviously, you hope they know what they are doing, but how far can you actually trust any of these large corporations even when it's in their rational self interest?

colachute
Mar 15, 2015

Duckman2008 posted:

The downside to the economy is upon us. I got an email from Ally:

“Your interest rate is going from 2.2 to 2.1.”


Nooooooooooooooooo

same with amex. bout to be a run on the bank.

colachute
Mar 15, 2015

drive me nuts to school posted:

Mint is amazingly secure and only grants read access to your accounts. I don't believe there is a way for someone to get access to your Mint account, and through that, access to any of your other accounts, as long as they don't have the same log in info.

I just downloaded Mint yesterday and got everything set up with my accounts. Two questions: does it allow for stock monitoring (outside of any of my portfolio information -- I just want to see what Amazon is trading at, for example)? and if I change a category of a transaction (like changing CVS from Pharmacy to Grocery) will it eventually remember to categorize it as that in the future, or am I fighting an endless battle?

Same questions for Personal Capital.

e: whoops double post

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balancedbias
May 2, 2009
$$$$$$$$$

colachute posted:

I just downloaded Mint yesterday and got everything set up with my accounts. Two questions: does it allow for stock monitoring (outside of any of my portfolio information -- I just want to see what Amazon is trading at, for example)? and if I change a category of a transaction (like changing CVS from Pharmacy to Grocery) will it eventually remember to categorize it as that in the future, or am I fighting an endless battle?

Same questions for Personal Capital.

e: whoops double post

Mint for investment monitoring has not worked for me since inception.
As for the categories sticking, it's a coinflip. In a bizarre way, I don't mind because I prefer to track categories myself anyway.

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