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Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Back when I graduated college, I made my own workbench out of a few 4x4s which I used for the legs, a piece of 3/4" plywood and some 2x4s for braces. That thing was so heavy and sturdy. The cost of materials was less than what it would have cost to buy a lovely one from harbor freight and it lasted me forever. The only reason I got rid of it was when I moved across the country and ]unsure of what kind of place I would be living in.

My old apartment had a basement with space for each tenant (3 units) and my space was very organized and built up for working on bikes/DIY stuff. They asked if the bench was going to stay and offered me $100 to leave it which I was planning to anyway.

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Bob Mundon
Dec 1, 2003
Your Friendly Neighborhood Gun Nut

Platystemon posted:

I got it for forty bucks and at that price I would recommend it, but I have to think there are better options in the vicinity of eighty.

Adjusting the table is annoying and the press doesn’t have a great depth capacity, so it’s frequently necessary when changing bits. It’s not the easiest to clamp onto.

It had no problem drilling ten-millimetre holes through mild steel, but I did stall it with dull forstner bits in hardwood. The motor gets hot after a few minutes, but I couldn’t smell it so it was probably within acceptable limits.


Actually just saw it only has a 2" range, consideringing I want to do mortises that doesn't sound great. Any reccomendations on Amazon that are better?

Falco
Dec 31, 2003

Freewheeling At Last

Bob Mundon posted:

Actually just saw it only has a 2" range, consideringing I want to do mortises that doesn't sound great. Any reccomendations on Amazon that are better?

That’s typically the crux of benchtop drill presses. Some of the large Jet or Grizzly bench top drill presses that have a really large head have a longer throw. What I really like about my Wen is it’s variable speed with a handle. I had a floor standing Jet that had a long throw and was awesome, but required changing speeds with a belt.

Thumposaurus
Jul 24, 2007

Endymion FRS MK1 posted:

Any thoughts on this small HF workbench? I've been used my ex's chest freezer as a makeshift work table for the past year and now that that is finally disappearing I'd like to replace it with an actual table. It seems to have good reviews and a great price.

We've got one in our kitchen here as an additional counter space/storage device.
When everything's tightened down properly it's plenty sturdy although the most of a work out it gets is rolling out of pie dough or something.
I slapped a piece of IKEA butcher block on one half of the counter and a piece of granite on the other side.

Target Practice
Aug 20, 2004

Shit.
Welp, my grandpa gave me his shopsmith:

mds2
Apr 8, 2004


Australia: 131114
Canada: 18662773553
Germany: 08001810771
India: 8888817666
Japan: 810352869090
Russia: 0078202577577
UK: 08457909090
US: 1-800-273-8255
I see its already set in the standard configuration.

Target Practice
Aug 20, 2004

Shit.

mds2 posted:

I see its already set in the standard configuration.

Haha, yeah. It made the trip from Idaho to socal in the back of a pickup truck cab. I got it at least put it out of the way in my garage:



It looks like it's a Mark V 510. I think I have everything that you could get for it, do to the shopsmith branded lathe tools and push sticks.

I feel like it can't be as good as having dedicated tools but it seems like it's going to allow me to do simple stuff that doesn't need a lot of precision (I'd like to get back into building bird houses and stuff like that.)

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Target Practice posted:

Haha, yeah. It made the trip from Idaho to socal in the back of a pickup truck cab. I got it at least put it out of the way in my garage:



It looks like it's a Mark V 510. I think I have everything that you could get for it, do to the shopsmith branded lathe tools and push sticks.

I feel like it can't be as good as having dedicated tools but it seems like it's going to allow me to do simple stuff that doesn't need a lot of precision (I'd like to get back into building bird houses and stuff like that.)

If you're doing bird houses with that, the thread demands a porch with fluted turned columns and antebellum style architecture.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED
Naturally, they didnt say they were making boring houses. That thing is a beast but still smaller than the individual pieces, lemme know how you like it.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

Harry Potter on Ice posted:

Naturally, they didnt say they were making boring houses.

No, you'd need an auger for that.

Harry Potter on Ice
Nov 4, 2006


IF IM NOT BITCHING ABOUT HOW SHITTY MY LIFE IS, REPORT ME FOR MY ACCOUNT HAS BEEN HIJACKED

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

No, you'd need an auger for that.

Heyooo :golfclap:

Tim Thomas
Feb 12, 2008
breakdancin the night away
I am cutting aluminum panels to size. Should I:

- Use a cutoff wheel and track?
- Use a jigsaw, metal blade, and track?

Elem7
Apr 12, 2003
der
Dinosaur Gum
They make metal cutting blades for circular saws to so that's an option. I'm assuming these panels are relatively thin sheets.

Tim Thomas
Feb 12, 2008
breakdancin the night away

Elem7 posted:

They make metal cutting blades for circular saws to so that's an option. I'm assuming these panels are relatively thin sheets.

Max 1/8" thickness. I thought most of those were for thin sheet, like 18 gauge?

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Tim Thomas posted:

Max 1/8" thickness. I thought most of those were for thin sheet, like 18 gauge?

You can use a regular table saw or circular saw and carbide tipped blade if you don't push it through like a maniac. Aluminum is soft. I'd wear eye and breathing protection.

OBAMNA PHONE
Aug 7, 2002
what are you going to use the panels for?

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...
Funny story, I was using my fancy brand new double bevel compound miter saw, and didn't realize that when cutting with an extreme bevel you have to slide the cast aluminum guide bar over to give the blade clearance. I brought the saw down and didn't even notice until I heard a "clunk!" As a chunk of my brand new toy hit the back wall of my shop. The carbide-tipped coarse 10" wood blade I had just melted through like butter. It was so clean that, after the combination of panicked/angry swearing was through I was able to just JB Weld it back on. You could not tell anything ever happened without looking VERY closely.

So yeah, if you are doing sheets then I'd go with a circ saw+track. Be good about stabilizing the panels and have a sacrificial piece of plywood or something underneath it -- you don't want it flexing on you as you cut. Hell, if you have a table saw that might work even better? Otherwise, a jigsaw+track or bandsaw would do.

Hubis fucked around with this message at 20:16 on Sep 18, 2019

Nevets
Sep 11, 2002

Be they sad or be they well,
I'll make their lives a hell
I've cut 1/8" aluminum angle on my table saw with an 80 tooth blade no problem.

DrBouvenstein
Feb 28, 2007

I think I'm a doctor, but that doesn't make me a doctor. This fancy avatar does.

Hubis posted:

Funny story, I was using my fancy brand new double bevel compound miter saw, and didn't realize that when cutting with an extreme bevel you have to slide the cast aluminum guide bar over to give the blade clearance. I brought the saw down and didn't even notice until I heard a "clunk!" As a chunk of my brand new toy hit the back wall of my shop. The carbide-tipped coarse 10" wood blade I had just melted through like butter. It was so clean that, after the combination of panicked/angry swearing was through I was able to just JB Weld it back on. You could not tell anything ever happened without looking VERY closely.


I've never taken a chunk out, but yeah I've made the same mistake and have a nice notch in mine.

Mr. Mambold
Feb 13, 2011

Aha. Nice post.



Hubis posted:

Funny story, I was using my fancy brand new double bevel compound miter saw, and didn't realize that when cutting with an extreme bevel you have to slide the cast aluminum guide bar over to give the blade clearance. I brought the saw down and didn't even notice until I heard a "clunk!" As a chunk of my brand new toy hit the back wall of my shop. The carbide-tipped coarse 10" wood blade I had just melted through like butter. It was so clean that, after the combination of panicked/angry swearing was through I was able to just JB Weld it back on. You could not tell anything ever happened without looking VERY closely.

So yeah, if you are doing sheets then I'd go with a circ saw+track. Be good about stabilizing the panels and have a sacrificial piece of plywood or something underneath it -- you don't want it flexing on you as you cut. Hell, if you have a table saw that might work even better? Otherwise, a jigsaw+track or bandsaw would do.

Does JBWeld have a product for fingers? Asking for a friend.

edit- also, I"d disrecommend a jigsaw. Not carbide and the blade motion would tend to melt/clog aluminum into the teeth. Don't ask how I know this....

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it

Mr. Mambold posted:

You can use a regular table saw or circular saw and carbide tipped blade if you don't push it through like a maniac. Aluminum is soft. I'd wear eye and breathing protection.

First time cutting a lead lined door on a table saw the guy helping me went and got leathers and welding mask from the metal shop. Didn't tell me why till we started cutting and I got pelted with hot lead chunks. Had tiny cuts all over my arms and face.

Of course I wasn't even wearing eye protection, nobody wore PPE in that shop till the OSHA fine...well we all got PPE at that point but still nobody wore them unless people signaled an inspector was on site.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

JEEVES420 posted:

Of course I wasn't even wearing eye protection, nobody wore PPE in that shop till the OSHA fine...well we all got PPE at that point but still nobody wore them unless people signaled an inspector was on site.

Reminds me of a guy I knew at a biology lab who wore shorts and open-toed sandals every day. He had a pair of slacks and close-toed shoes in a drawer somewhere so he could change if the inspector was coming.

I mean, as far as safety violations in a biolab go that's pretty minor. I also knew people who kept snacks and booze in the wetlab drawers.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
I was in my highschool metal shop class in the late 90s. We were finishing up our welding test and my buddy at the time had a big knit sweater that was all pilly and spiked hair with gel in it. I was in the welding booth behind him working on my mig welds when all of a sudden I saw a huge blue poof. His sweater engulfed in one big flame. He lost all the body hair on his chest/stomach and we had to put his hair out because the alcohol in the gel made it ignite like gas. He popped his sweater off really fast and we got his hair to stop burning before it was too bad. He laughed it off and shaved his head the next day.

Later on in our foundry portion of the class, my casting partners' turn to pour. Pouring was a 2 person job. The device you use to grab the crucible takes 2 people, one on each side and its shaped like a Y. One person holds the skinny end and just holds. The other is responsible for pouring. Its all about communication and make slow and deliberate movements. We grab the crucible and lift it out of the furnace. We were making bench vices so it was a full pot of molten metal and pretty heavy. We get it out, carry it over to the castings and he pauses, looks up and away. He has one of those full body sneezes that drat near causes a seizure throughout his entire body and he drops his end of the crucible spilling liquid metal on the ground.

Its not surprising to me that they dont have shop class in schools anymore. I loved every second of it but I'm amazed nobody died. Watching kids lose parts into a bench grinder only to have them shoot across the room.

Tim Thomas
Feb 12, 2008
breakdancin the night away

BraveUlysses posted:

what are you going to use the panels for?

Frame panels for protection/EMI shielding/mounting on an 80/20 frame (other panels hidden):



also ps Fusion 360 is great insofar that it is cheap but hot damnety drat does it suck horribly at any decently sized assemblies, sheesh

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

Nevets posted:

I've cut 1/8" aluminum angle on my table saw with an 80 tooth blade no problem.

I regularly used to cut 1/4 plate on a 3hp unisaw. My miter saw cuts a lot of 2x2x1/4 angle and channel. Go slow, shoot a little WD on the blade, and it'll be fine. The metal cutting blades are awesome, just expensive in 10" size.

Endymion FRS MK1
Oct 29, 2011

I don't know what this thing is, and I don't care. I'm just tired of seeing your stupid newbie av from 2011.
So I ended up buying the Harbor Freight workbench:



For $80 I'm impressed. It's surprisingly solid. Building it was painless for the most part, only problem was a couple of the holes in the solid pieces didn't quite line up, but I ended up jamming the bolts in and it worked. Also the fluorescent bulb it came with was dead but I was gonna put a cheap LED on there anyways

canyoneer
Sep 13, 2005


I only have canyoneyes for you
That's the Harbor Freight-est review there is.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Any suggestions on a reasonably priced set of calipers? I only really need precision of 0.5mm and accuracy of 0.1mm, but all the ones on Amazon seem to be (per reviews) inaccurate carbon-copy imports.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib
iGauging work great.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Jaded Burnout posted:

Any suggestions on a reasonably priced set of calipers? I only really need precision of 0.5mm and accuracy of 0.1mm, but all the ones on Amazon seem to be (per reviews) inaccurate carbon-copy imports.

RS.
841 2530 £30 for 145mm verniers
841 2537 £11 for 150mm dial, your choice.

E: I won't vouch for the accuracy but Screwfix also do a vernier for like £12

cakesmith handyman fucked around with this message at 13:49 on Sep 23, 2019

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Thanks both!

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


cakesmith handyman posted:

RS.
841 2530 £30 for 145mm verniers
841 2537 £11 for 150mm dial, your choice.

E: I won't vouch for the accuracy but Screwfix also do a vernier for like £12

Looks like those RS products don't have the accuracy I need, so I went for this one instead (without the £40 calibration):
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/calipers/8412518/

coathat
May 21, 2007


https://www.homedepot.com/p/Erickson-Tailgate-Sawhorse-Kit-4-Pack-7610/308542289?MERCH=REC-_-homepagehorizontal1_rr-_-NA-_-308542289-_-N

This seems like a neat idea that could very easily break but i do want one.

Super Waffle
Sep 25, 2007

I'm a hermaphrodite and my parents (40K nerds) named me Slaanesh, THANKS MOM

I thought this Jeremy Clarkson doing a bit

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Super Waffle posted:

I thought this Jeremy Clarkson doing a bit

Same. I expected there to be another picture of a crooked shack and Jezza standing proudly next to it as it collapses under its own weight.

JEEVES420
Feb 16, 2005

The world is a mess... and I just need to rule it
I want to see the tailgates with saw marks in the top.

Not that its a horrible idea but you could also just use your tailgate to cut the ends off of boards. leave boards in the bed of the truck and cut parallel with the tailgate.

coathat
May 21, 2007

Oh I’ve done tons of work that way but i’ve had plenty of times where I’d like to clamp a board down easier and it seems like I could cut some plywood on it which would be nice.

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




The bed liner in my truck has slots that take 2x4s and create a perfect platform on top of the wheel wells
Then I can screw another 2x4 underneath connecting them and I have a beautiful plywood sled

And then I can use the bits that stick out of the tailgate as sawhorses already

I wish my bed liner wasn’t all cracked and hosed up though.

Jaded Burnout
Jul 10, 2004


Sockser posted:

The bed liner in my truck has slots that take 2x4s and create a perfect platform on top of the wheel wells
Then I can screw another 2x4 underneath connecting them and I have a beautiful plywood sled

And then I can use the bits that stick out of the tailgate as sawhorses already

I wish my bed liner wasn’t all cracked and hosed up though.

A truck is one of those things I feel like is missing to give me the freedom to go buy whatever whenever. Like you get a car and suddenly you can go to out of town shopping centers or whatever, but if you want an 8 foot sheet of something, back on that garbage delivery train, getting raked over the coals on cost because someone has to drive a pallet to your house.

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Bad Munki
Nov 4, 2008

We're all mad here.


Jaded Burnout posted:

A truck is one of those things I feel like is missing to give me the freedom to go buy whatever whenever. Like you get a car and suddenly you can go to out of town shopping centers or whatever, but if you want an 8 foot sheet of something, back on that garbage delivery train, getting raked over the coals on cost because someone has to drive a pallet to your house.

You can get a trailer suitable for sheet goods for <$500

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