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McSpergin posted:I decided to get my act together on these cutting boards I've been planning I was under the impression that you weren't supposed to use oak for cutting boards because it has a tendency to absorb juices, etc..
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Oct 23, 2019 12:37
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McSpergin posted:I decided to get my act together on these cutting boards I've been planning What's interesting about that to me is how long the short grain glue joints will hold before it just snaps off. Unless there's an optical illusion in this picture. Dude, don't you know that's the 1st rule of wood?
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Oct 23, 2019 16:08
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Jaded Burnout posted:From an aesthetics standpoint I don't mind either, so long as the face frame doesn't make a lip that you have to lift things over when taking them in and out of the cabinets. That's entirely up to your design. You want an 1 1/2 bottom rail with no upper lip, you run the bulkhead 3/4 past the bottom shelf (which is 3/4" plywood) and glue/nail your 1 1/2" rail flush. If you want a 1" rail, just go proud by 1/4".
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Oct 23, 2019 16:12
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Easy fix mcspergin: ignore the haters, flip the slats
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Oct 23, 2019 16:12
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lmao 
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Oct 23, 2019 16:27
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Mr. Mambold posted:What's interesting about that to me is how long the short grain glue joints will hold before it just snaps off. Unless there's an optical illusion in this picture. Dude, don't you know that's the 1st rule of wood? Tbh I've only really done joinery without glue, just using pocket holes and traditional fasteners/nails. It's still in clamps (it's at my partner's house) so it may be an easy fix at this point, it just means I'll need to knock it apart with the dead blow, and then pre-thickness all the parts to ensure they're uniform before I reglue it This is also my first cutting board(s) so I'm definitely open to Internet Help / Guidance
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Oct 24, 2019 02:54
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McSpergin posted:Tbh I've only really done joinery without glue, just using pocket holes and traditional fasteners/nails. It's still in clamps (it's at my partner's house) so it may be an easy fix at this point, it just means I'll need to knock it apart with the dead blow, and then pre-thickness all the parts to ensure they're uniform before I reglue it Well, if it's glued, I don't think I'd knock it apart. I'd probably cut along the glue joints with a table saw to keep from pulling shards off the long grain pieces.
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Oct 24, 2019 03:55
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Mr. Mambold posted:Well, if it's glued, I don't think I'd knock it apart. I'd probably cut along the glue joints with a table saw to keep from pulling shards off the long grain pieces. I think for this exercise I'm gonna commit to finishing it as a learning experience lol
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Oct 24, 2019 09:52
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Mr. Mambold posted:Well, if it's glued, I don't think I'd knock it apart. I'd probably cut along the glue joints with a table saw to keep from pulling shards off the long grain pieces. Actually I did just realise that the red gum is connected by end grain but the blackbutt is along the dressed faces. So when I crosscut it to checkerboard it, I'll need to keep an eye on the grain. With the smaller board, only the red gum is via end grain but it's also not glued yet. All the other boards are on the dressed faces. So all it'd need would be for me to flatten and thickness the red gum and rotate it 90 degrees to be on long grain 
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Oct 24, 2019 14:02
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I am going to try and get into some more hand tool usage (hence the hand plane class I took last week). I already had some old chisels, so I decided to make a woodworker's mallet out of some scrap I had.   The head is sapele and the handle is maple. I also made a box to throw all my poo poo in at the end of the day out of some failed cutting boards I had kept around 
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Oct 25, 2019 11:39
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AFewBricksShy posted:I am going to try and get into some more hand tool usage (hence the hand plane class I took last week). Very nice! As a note, I've picked up a variety of wooden, rubber, and plastic hammers to test them out and the nylon-headed one has become my absolute go-to for chiselling, and most things that need a gentle tap. I use the wood mallet for seating wood-to-wood joints, the rubber ones for things that would damage the surface of the wood and need some give in them (black and white depending on the surface because of marking), and reserve my "normal" metal ones for hitting nails and nothing else.
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Oct 25, 2019 11:43
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Jaded Burnout posted:Very nice! Thank you. I love the way sapele takes the finish (waterlox). It almost looks holographic as the light plays across the surface.
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Oct 25, 2019 12:34
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AFewBricksShy posted:I also made a box to throw all my poo poo in at the end of the day out of some failed cutting boards I had kept around Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
 Had a spare hour and some scrap plywood and tried to get closer to Roy Underhill zen of 'a place for everything and everything in it's place'  I'm sure it will be more tempermanent than I intend, but I should have done this 2 years ago. It's got me really thinking about building a big, life-changing, all-encompassing tool cabinet in the next few months if I have the time. I'd love to have all my chisels and marking/measuring stuff where they're not in a roll or drawer and are easily visible and grabbable. Something that closes up and wouldn't get instantly covered in dust would be pretty magical. Here's a big dumb cypress mantel I just finished. I'm pretty happy with the design overall, but I wish I could have put a real panel in the center (I had a perfect piece of wood with a nice eye/circle of grain) instead of just applying molding, but that would have made the mantel too thick. Cypress is such a pleasant wood to work with.  
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Oct 27, 2019 14:18
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Mantels are fun. I'm pretty sure I've never used cypress, and it looks like a pleasant material to work with. edit- dentil and fluting and plinths, Oh my!
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Oct 27, 2019 16:05
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I wish my box was this pretty! I love tumbling block everything. Alright I need to build something similar to hold everything, I'm getting tired of piles on shelves in my shop. What was the hardest part of that detail or the part that you never want to do again? Looks great! How many hours for that including design and layout? Killer stuff thanks for sharing. I think the detail on the dentil (maybe? I just googled what he said^) corners turning into it are my favorite I really like the pop you get on that reveal from just off center
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Oct 27, 2019 16:36
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My bandsaw blade is dying, so I decided to waste the rest of its life on making a gift for me a few years in the future. It's just pine, from a tree a neighbor was cutting back, but I like working with stuff I "milled" (freehanded through the bandsaw) myself. And the grain on the crotch wood is pretty cool:  Lots of work for some 15"-long slabs though.
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Oct 27, 2019 18:22
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I wish my box was this pretty! I love tumbling block everything. That's a beautiful mantle. Nice job!
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Oct 27, 2019 18:34
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Alright I need to build something similar to hold everything, I'm getting tired of piles on shelves in my shop. The dentils are actually pretty easy (crosscut sled with a dado and a little notch to index them in like a box joint) but gosh they are are a pain to sand, especially because cypress is kind of sappy and clogs sandpaper almost as badly as heart pine. I almost got screwed up where the dentils step back from the pilasters because it wasn't ending on a full space or tooth, but I fudged it a little (that's what molding is there for, right?) and it looks pretty even. TooMuchAbstraction posted:It's just pine, from a tree a neighbor was cutting back, but I like working with stuff I "milled" (freehanded through the bandsaw) myself. And the grain on the crotch wood is pretty cool:
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Oct 28, 2019 03:13
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I'm designing/building a medicine cabinet. The current plan is that the back of the cabinet is a sheet of plywood. The right side is a cabinet with a mirror door, and the left side is open shelves made from 1x6. I don't really have any good plans for joining the 1x6 shelves to the plywood back. My first thought was to pocket hole screw the shelves to the plywood, then my thought was to blind screw the plywood to the shelves, or maybe screw + glue, or maybe cut dados in the plywood to slot the shelves into either full-width or with a tab routed on, or... I don't know! What are good options for this? What are bad options? Can I/should I just screw + glue?
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Oct 29, 2019 16:09
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Bloody posted:I'm designing/building a medicine cabinet. The current plan is that the back of the cabinet is a sheet of plywood. The right side is a cabinet with a mirror door, and the left side is open shelves made from 1x6. I don't really have any good plans for joining the 1x6 shelves to the plywood back. My first thought was to pocket hole screw the shelves to the plywood, then my thought was to blind screw the plywood to the shelves, or maybe screw + glue, or maybe cut dados in the plywood to slot the shelves into either full-width or with a tab routed on, or... I don't know! What are good options for this? What are bad options? Can I/should I just screw + glue? Typical backing is only 1/4" to keep things from racking, less weight, etc. Glue is overkill and has a tendency to smear on your final assembly. Small screws or brads would work. Air driven staples at a not-high pressure is what I always used.
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Oct 29, 2019 17:11
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Why do I do this to myself? Wrestling a 4'-long log freehanded through a bandsaw that's not built for milling is not easy, and those slabs are pretty far from flat. They're also full of knots, though at least that means the grain is doing all kinds of funky things. I think I'm done raiding burn piles for a bit though.
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Oct 29, 2019 17:53
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Why do I do this to myself? I'm planning to do something similar not to far in the future, it's the reason I got a bandsaw with such a large resaw capacity (13"). Figuring out how to feed a log through straight seems to be the main challenge. I keep thinking some kind of jig that holds the log might be in order, did you think about using something like that? like this or similar https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mTYP4lH0TZM e. I don't like that it relies on driving screws into the stock though, I'm thinking some kind of adjustable arms that grips the stock at the ends, hmm. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 18:24 on Oct 29, 2019 |
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Oct 29, 2019 18:00
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That's a pretty clever jig, and would definitely help me produce flatter slabs that need less work, at least with the shorter logs. The big issue though with the longer logs is that the bandsaw table is very short, which means that most of the weight of the log is not on the table. I don't think a jig like in the video would help with that problem; you need infeed/outfeed tables instead. Pretty tall tables, since bandsaws are higher up than table saws as a rule. Driving screws is I think pretty unavoidable. With round stock at least, though, you won't be using that section of the log anyway because it's rounded and covered with bark. Just don't make the screws so long that they extend into the boards you do actually want to use...not least because you don't want the bandsaw blade touching the screws!
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Oct 29, 2019 18:53
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Speaking of short tables, y'all have any thoughts on infeed rollers or the like? I have a good outfeed table on my table saw but nothing for infeed. I have a bunch of cheap sawhorses but they're a) intended to grip wood, not slide it, and b) not tall enough. I've seen adjustable-height roller ones, but maybe they're overkill? I'd probably need a couple if they're sawhorse sized.
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Oct 29, 2019 18:57
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:That's a pretty clever jig, and would definitely help me produce flatter slabs that need less work, at least with the shorter logs. The big issue though with the longer logs is that the bandsaw table is very short, which means that most of the weight of the log is not on the table. I don't think a jig like in the video would help with that problem; you need infeed/outfeed tables instead. Pretty tall tables, since bandsaws are higher up than table saws as a rule. Jaded Burnout posted:Speaking of short tables, y'all have any thoughts on infeed rollers or the like?
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Oct 29, 2019 19:21
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Yup I have one roller stand (got it for metalwork) and I haven't tried it yet mostly because my garage floor is a little sloped and uneven, and also I'm using a mobile stand on the bandsaw to maneuver it out from its niche when I have long stuff to feed in/out and so it's in slightly different position on the floor each time I use it so I'd have to constantly adjust the roller to try and compensate (probably by shimming the feet since the roller itself does not have a lateral tilt adjustment). But that does seem to be the best option since I do not have an infeed or outfeed table, nor room to put one if I made one.
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Oct 29, 2019 19:37
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Sometimes they can be worse than useless and make stuff hard and sometimes they make the impossible easy. They can be a nightmare because if they are at all tilted and not exactly the right angle, they try and feed the stock in a direction other that ‘right against the fence and into the saw’. The ones with ball bearings instead of a single cylindrical roller aren’t as bad about that, but they also are kind of useless for narrow stock. Make sure the stand has some way to level it so that roller and saw table are parallel/coplanar. Maybe your floor is flat, but mine very much isn’t and it’s frustrating to have to set it back up if a move it a foot, so I don’t use one much for the infeed and have a table for the outfeed. Gotcha. I don't strictly want/need a rolling version, so perhaps a regular adjustable sawhorse-style thing would be best. Really I just need something to support long pieces during the initial feed in. When I trimmed down that gate post it felt at best inaccurate and at worst dangerous to have this big lever trying to pull the piece off the table.
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Oct 29, 2019 19:39
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Jaded Burnout posted:Speaking of short tables, y'all have any thoughts on infeed rollers or the like? They're really dangerous, in my experience. I made a couple for when I had long pieces I needed to run through a shaper, and it never failed when the piece came off the roller, it boinged and screwed up the pattern. With a table saw, there's a chance of your workpiece rolling on its own if you don't have hands-on, and you never want that with a moving blade. Just make an adjustable sawhorse or 2 without rollers, and maybe a scrap of carpet on top. also this: Kaiser Schnitzel posted:
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Oct 29, 2019 19:41
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I think some sort of simple sled a little longer than the log with uprights at each end you screw through into the log would be pretty simple and at least get you 1 fat surface you can ride on the table. Free hand a flat-ish one and then run that against the fence. It would only leave you with one live edge though if that’s a concern. An outfeed table or (or roller) is definitely a huge help on the bandsaw. It’s fun playing miniature sawmill and seeing how different cuts produce completely different grain and figure in the final sawn board. Yeah, this would probably do the trick. The first cut is important because if it's not flat then every board you cut will be twisted...and it's pretty hard to get a good first cut because you don't have any flat surfaces to work with! Double live edge is neat when you can pull it off, but I don't think it's generally essential. A few years ago, I tried to make an outfeed table like this one, but on my bandsaw there's no good way to attach the tabletop to the saw, that I could figure out. I should take another look at doing that now that I have more experience.
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Oct 29, 2019 20:05
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Yeah, this would probably do the trick. The first cut is important because if it's not flat then every board you cut will be twisted...and it's pretty hard to get a good first cut because you don't have any flat surfaces to work with! Double live edge is neat when you can pull it off, but I don't think it's generally essential. That’s a pretty clever table design. I would think you could pretty easily drill a few hole through the lip of your bandsaw table to put some bolts through. You could even put it all together with hinges so it just collapsed out of the way behind and below the saw table. I’m not that smart, so I built a cart with a laminate top and locking casters the same height as my bandsaw table and just park it on the outfeed side and it works well enough. I built one for the infeed as well, but it only really gets used for making pencil posts etc as it’s it’s not quite the perfect height with my wonky floor and suffers from some of the same problems as roller stands with trying to make wood go the wrong way.
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Oct 29, 2019 20:17
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Oh right, jointers exist.  One of those tools that I've never gotten around to trying to buy. Usually I deal with not having one by only buying lumber that's straight and limiting my resawing, but that doesn't work so well when I'm milling my own stuff!Good point on drilling my own holes. I should be more willing to customize my tools like that. Thanks for the suggestion!
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Oct 29, 2019 20:27
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Some pretty cool tools https://www.finewoodworking.com/2019/10/28/fitz-machine-envy
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Oct 29, 2019 22:11
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i cut some dadoes with my miter saw today and they've got very minor but visible blade ridges in them. How can I clean them up before I glue in the mating board? A dry fit of the mating board looks kinda messy right now
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Oct 29, 2019 23:47
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Bloody posted:i cut some dadoes with my miter saw today and they've got very minor but visible blade ridges in them. How can I clean them up before I glue in the mating board? A dry fit of the mating board looks kinda messy right now Use a chisel IMO. The ridges should come out without any trouble. coathat posted:Some pretty cool tools https://www.finewoodworking.com/2019/10/28/fitz-machine-envy That is pretty cool. Those things are huge!
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Oct 30, 2019 00:21
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Bloody posted:i cut some dadoes with my miter saw today and they've got very minor but visible blade ridges in them. How can I clean them up before I glue in the mating board? A dry fit of the mating board looks kinda messy right now Chisel or shoulder plane or scraper or router or sanding block. Chisel is probably easiest/fastest if you don't have a shoulder plane, followed by sanding block if you don't have a chisel. coathat posted:Some pretty cool tools https://www.finewoodworking.com/2019/10/28/fitz-machine-envy I never quite 'got' modern Euro machinery vs. old american iron until I got an SCMI planer and all the sudden it made sense to me, and SCM is not even at all the top of the heap. Martin probably is. I can't imagine how much fancier Martin is than SCMI, because I really can't imagine how anything could be better. There's a window shop here with a Martin T-12 shaper and for him its invaluable being able to break down a set up and then reset it perfect to the thousandth of an inch, but he also is probably running $150,000 worth of windows through it a year. I think one of those T-45s planers new are like $30k, and their joiners are legendary too. I've seen people asking 5 figures for ones 30 years old. It's a real testament to the build quality of that stuff , and the American manufacturers that are still around like Northfield and Tannewitz, how well it holds its value. My planer had run in a millwork shop for 20 yrs old and it's still in great shape and cost half what it was new. East Asian stuff you can hardly give away used and with no warranty.
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Oct 30, 2019 00:33
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Why do I do this to myself? If you got some angle grinder chops its pretty fun using those to shape and/or flatten wood. Also of course a belt sander will do work on those. I forget, you were thinking a serving tray or something with them right?
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Oct 30, 2019 00:34
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:If you got some angle grinder chops its pretty fun using those to shape and/or flatten wood. Also of course a belt sander will do work on those. I forget, you were thinking a serving tray or something with them right? These are destined to sit around for a couple years drying out, but yeah, I have some other live-edge stuff that I have sitting around waiting for me to get back to it. The plan there is to make a small, portable table that people can put drinks/snacks on while watching TV and then tuck away when it's not in use. Kind of like a step stool but longer.
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Oct 30, 2019 00:46
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Bloody posted:i cut some dadoes with my miter saw today and they've got very minor but visible blade ridges in them. How can I clean them up before I glue in the mating board? A dry fit of the mating board looks kinda messy right now A long chisel, it will help you keep a flatter cut so you don't dig in. Don't use a mallet with it, just scrape the ridges off with a sharp chisel. In case you or anyone reading wonders why you get the ridges:  Most blades use an alternating angle teeth. What you want for cutting dados is a flat top.
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Oct 30, 2019 02:00
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JEEVES420 posted:Most blades use an alternating angle teeth. What you want for cutting dados is a flat top. Even most dado stacks won't give you a totally flat dado. Usually the outside blades have a bit of bevel to help prevent chipout and you end up with "ears" that sort of look like a batman head. I follow up with a router plane to make them totally flat. A box joint stack would give you totally flat dados on a table saw.
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Oct 30, 2019 02:35
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Bloody posted:i cut some dadoes with my miter saw today and they've got very minor but visible blade ridges in them. How can I clean them up before I glue in the mating board? A dry fit of the mating board looks kinda messy right now  I'm guessing it's a radial arm type miter saw. That's pretty typical of blade cut dadoes, and don't worry about cleaning it up, it's going to (most likely) receive short grain anyway. The walls of the dado are the only part where glue will actually grab from. Unless your shelves are really weird.Meow Meow Meow posted:Even most dado stacks won't give you a totally flat dado. Usually the outside blades have a bit of bevel to help prevent chipout and you end up with "ears" that sort of look like a batman head. I follow up with a router plane to make them totally flat. A box joint stack would give you totally flat dados on a table saw. Best clean cut is router cut. And the short grain issue still exists.
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Oct 30, 2019 17:20
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