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Do you have a link to that knife holder? That looks like the solution to me wanting a magnetic knife strip but not living anywhere I can install one.
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Jul 26, 2019 14:46
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Invisible Ted posted:Do you have a link to that knife holder? That looks like the solution to me wanting a magnetic knife strip but not living anywhere I can install one. right here my friend
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Jul 26, 2019 14:51
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A bit of an odd request: Does anyone know where I can get a Shiro Kamo r2 270mm gyuto specifically from when Chef Knives To Go was selling them? Knives and Stones has them now, but they're clearly a bit different in ways I'm not as fond of (handle and choil shape especially). I've wanted one for years, and I don't think that CKTG is ever going to restock them, though they do have an old 240 1-of with a really pretty handle right now.
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Jul 31, 2019 23:22
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Yond Cassius posted:I'm sure someone could make a reasonably-priced factory-stamped set in France (if you're not married to the Laguiole design, Opinel sells a set of rather nice made-in-France steak knives for about $60), but I don't think anyone actually does. I haven't tried these, but I've used Opinel pocket knives for years and I love 'em.
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Aug 1, 2019 00:30
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There seems to be a tonne of cheap Chinese whetstones on Amazon. Are these a bad idea to get? Should I get a recognised brand instead?
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Dec 10, 2019 15:40
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I use Shapton stones. Like them a lot.
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Dec 10, 2019 15:51
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:There seems to be a tonne of cheap Chinese whetstones on Amazon. Are these a bad idea to get? Should I get a recognised brand instead? I got a huge Chinese one that was advertised as 3k. It's not as nice as my synthetics or other naturals. They cut slowwws
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Dec 10, 2019 16:14
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:There seems to be a tonne of cheap Chinese whetstones on Amazon. Are these a bad idea to get? Should I get a recognised brand instead? I make edged tools, and I might be jumping in late with contrary advice to what I've seen in this thread (for example I wouldn't bother with a waterstone on a kitchen knife at all) but yes, get a brand that you saw somebody say something good about. I use a lot of Norton stones and recommend them and their wheels, belts, sandpaper sheets, etc. without reservation. Crappy abrasive products are so terrible for the quality of your work that they're a bad deal even if they're free.
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Dec 15, 2019 04:39
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Myron Baloney posted:I make edged tools, and I might be jumping in late with contrary advice to what I've seen in this thread (for example I wouldn't bother with a waterstone on a kitchen knife at all) but yes, get a brand that you saw somebody say something good about. I use a lot of Norton stones and recommend them and their wheels, belts, sandpaper sheets, etc. without reservation. Crappy abrasive products are so terrible for the quality of your work that they're a bad deal even if they're free. what do you use for kitchen knives then?
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Dec 15, 2019 05:02
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:There seems to be a tonne of cheap Chinese whetstones on Amazon. Are these a bad idea to get? Should I get a recognised brand instead? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UZET0M/ I used that one for years, and I've given a couple out as gifts. It dishes pretty quickly, and it's easiest to just keep it submerged all the time since it needs to soak, but it's pretty good. That little blue rust remover thing is crap, though, it just falls off. Snap it off and throw it away.
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Dec 15, 2019 05:13
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Myron Baloney posted:(for example I wouldn't bother with a waterstone on a kitchen knife at all) Why not?
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Dec 15, 2019 08:32
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fart simpson posted:what do you use for kitchen knives then? I don't think going to a polished edge is needed for cutting foods. 1200 grit is as fine as I'd bother. If someone likes their polished edge and feels better using it in the kitchen that's fine, but I don't like unnecessary work. This is not so much about the "polished vs toothy" thing (although I think there's something to that with some foods) as it is about the right sharpening angles (15-17 degrees) and getting the wire edge under control. That is a function of knowing what you're doing and skill, not a function of how fine you sharpen once you get past 1000 grit. There are waterstones that would work for what I do but I'd rather use a silicon carbide stone that will show no visible wear after years of use. Waterstones wear fast, need to be flattened periodically, have to be saturated to work right (ie stored in water) and good ones aren't cheap. If I don't need a dead flat polished edge (plane irons, chisels, etc.) I don't use a waterstone, and even then I don't always use them. With stones (which I don't use often anymore on knives) I start with a 350 grit silicon carbide stone if I need to, then 800 grit aluminum oxide, then 1000 or 1200 grit aluminum oxide, then I strop a few strokes on leather or denim loaded with polishing compound to take most of the wire edge off. This takes like 5 minutes, although it takes practice and focus to get good results. I need fast sharpening because I sharpen often. With sandpaper (on a cheap EdgePro Apex jig knockoff) I use roughly the same grits. I use a sharpening steel in the kitchen before big cutting jobs. If you sharpen to a polished edge there's not much point in steeling, because there's less of a wire edge remnant to push back into shape - that's all a steel does. 90% of my knife sharpening is done on a cheap Harbor Freight 1" belt grinder. 800 grit belt first, maybe 400 grit before that for a really blunted edge or on very hard steel, then to a leather belt with white polishing compound or something similar. Shaving-sharp in 2 minutes even for big knives. Sharpening used to be a puzzle for me, not getting the angle consistent stroke to stroke or side to side, making the mistake of starting with fine instead of coarse grits, and after many minutes my knives were still dull as hell. I do a lot of hand work and imo keeping a consistent angle with a knife on a stone is a very difficult skill to develop. Using a jig like an EdgePro or Lansky is only slightly easier for me, same with angled stone/rod holders like the Sharpmaker.
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Dec 15, 2019 18:30
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maybe forest from the trees here but a waterstone is less investment and space then a belt grinder. A diamond setup of stones or a DMT duel is what I'd get if time was a concern, they cutttt. Not as enjoyable as a stone tho. Unless you're doing single beveled you don't really need to flatten stones either you don't need a polished edge for a knife but it also helps with reactivity aside from being a pretty relaxing activity.
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Dec 15, 2019 21:20
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Yeah, whatever works for you. A 1" belt grinder from Harbor Freight costs less than lots of decent quality waterstones do though, believe it or not. Of course then you use belts up so there's a small ongoing cost there. DMT and other diamond stones are probably a worse buy in my eyes than either, their quality is spotty and they seem to wear out unreasonably fast for what they cost. I wore out 2 DMT lapping plates and gave up on them. I only bother to chip in because I suspect there are some people who are as discouraged by their sharpening results as I used to be, there are easier ways to get there.
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Dec 15, 2019 23:11
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This thread needs more petina. 
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Dec 17, 2019 05:48
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the Mods, they knew!
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Mostly asking out of curiosity, does anyone use Sakai Jikko knives? I’ve been working with one for most of this year and it’s held up really well but I never hear the name mentioned.
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Dec 17, 2019 06:29
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I'm lusting after a Sakimaru Takohiki. I have absolutely no need for such a knife and countless other designs would be better suited to the things I do. Please validate my coveting.
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Dec 17, 2019 14:01
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Does anybody have a good meat cleaver recommendations? I'm going to be doing some butchering soon (sides of lamb at Costco area good price/lb ) and don't want to wreck my knives.
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Dec 17, 2019 21:57
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Pablo Bluth posted:I'm lusting after a Sakimaru Takohiki. I have absolutely no need for such a knife and countless other designs would be better suited to the things I do. You can always start doing the things the knife is intended for in the future  Meaty Ore posted:Does anybody have a good meat cleaver recommendations? I'm going to be doing some butchering soon (sides of lamb at Costco area good price/lb ) and don't want to wreck my knives. A cheap one from a local Asian store.
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Dec 17, 2019 23:08
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Pablo Bluth posted:I'm lusting after a Sakimaru Takohiki. I have absolutely no need for such a knife and countless other designs would be better suited to the things I do. You have my blessing as long as you sign off on that maguro kiri bōchō that I've been eyeing. Why yes, I do plan to break down an entire bluefin tuna, as soon as I can get my hands on one.
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Dec 17, 2019 23:48
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Meaty Ore posted:Does anybody have a good meat cleaver recommendations? I'm going to be doing some butchering soon (sides of lamb at Costco area good price/lb ) and don't want to wreck my knives. Get a Kiwi or something, they're cheap and pretty good.
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Dec 18, 2019 08:12
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totalnewbie posted:A cheap one from a local Asian store. Raikiri posted:Get a Kiwi or something, they're cheap and pretty good. Thanks; I asked for one as a Christmas gift and will probably end up with a semi-pricey one, knowing my in-laws. I didn't realize that good meat cleavers were inexpensive the same way that good vegetable cleavers are. I assume they just need to be reasonably sharp and heavy?
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Dec 19, 2019 01:12
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Meaty Ore posted:Thanks; I asked for one as a Christmas gift and will probably end up with a semi-pricey one, knowing my in-laws. I didn't realize that good meat cleavers were inexpensive the same way that good vegetable cleavers are. I assume they just need to be reasonably sharp and heavy? Yeah, and usually a slightly softer steel (55-56 HRC). Edge won't last long between sharpening but they won't chip/crack like a harder steel.
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Dec 19, 2019 13:56
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https://youtu.be/5e56SnwL4aE
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Dec 20, 2019 04:37
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What’s people’s opinion on Burrfections recommendations? He recently was gushing over a messermeister knife with an olive wood handle. I really like the way the handle looked and that it was fairly low maintenance. I’ve had a Forschener victorinox 8” chefs knife for about a decade, and an anonymous calphalon that came when I got married, and have worked my way from pull through sharpeners up to a a couple of stones and steels and can get an edge that will pop hairs if I work at it. Is this a good choice for a prestige ‘daddy’s knife don’t touch’? Or is there something I will regret about it in short order? Messermeister Oliva Elite Chef's Knife (8-inch) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0073YEQ38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nb3.Db5CTA2GJ
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Dec 22, 2019 14:33
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Any suggestions on a good wooden cutting board? America's Test Kitchen seems to suggest this here. But wondering if there was something else out there you goons like. Edit: Also posted this on another knife thread, and was suggested this in replacement for a knife block. I'm thinking about picking it up, as I do not have a lot of counter space. Magnetic bar is also out of the question as our landlord doesn't want us to do anything to the kitchen.
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Dec 23, 2019 01:07
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There are so many people making cutting boards I'd buy one locally or from Etsy.
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Dec 23, 2019 02:45
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obi_ant posted:Any suggestions on a good wooden cutting board? America's Test Kitchen seems to suggest this here. But wondering if there was something else out there you goons like. I've always heard that teak is really rough on knives because of its high silica content. Googling seems to suggest people are divided. I'd go end grain maple.
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Dec 23, 2019 02:51
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I use this hinoki wood one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HFW1N3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 I'd have bought the bigger one but ehh.. the 16x10 is alright. But hinoki is a very soft wood so you can damage it with your knife if you're not careful. But no oiling required, not afraid of soap, etc. Very good.
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Dec 23, 2019 03:54
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totalnewbie posted:I use this hinoki wood one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HFW1N3S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 It also smells loving amazing, I would have everything in my house made from it if I could.
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Dec 23, 2019 04:31
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wormil posted:There are so many people making cutting boards I'd buy one locally or from Etsy. Seconding Etsy. I got a really nice end grain maple/walnut board off there for a fairly reasonable price. It’s a beast of a board and I love it.
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Dec 23, 2019 14:38
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obi_ant posted:Any suggestions on a good wooden cutting board? America's Test Kitchen seems to suggest this here. But wondering if there was something else out there you goons like. I have a Boos Block, they are not significantly cheaper than the one you linked but it's nice and I like it. This one is maple and is the same dimensions as the one you linked: https://www.amazon.com/John-Boos-R02-Reversible-Cutting/dp/B00063QBK4/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=boos+block&qid=1577108799&s=home-garden&sr=1-4
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Dec 23, 2019 14:47
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I got a Victorinox Santoku with the rosewood handle. The problem is the wood smells like pure rear end, and it gets on your hands and is difficult to wash the smell off. Apparently this is an issue with Indian Rosewood. I've washed it a few times, I've cleaned it thoroughly with Goof Off and then 95% rubbing alcohol. It still smells. I was going to give it a few more goes and then re-oil it with mineral oil. Any tips on getting the smell out? Should I return it for the fibrox handle? FogHelmut fucked around with this message at 18:29 on Dec 26, 2019 |
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Dec 26, 2019 18:22
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You may want to try some beeswax
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Dec 26, 2019 18:29
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FogHelmut posted:Any tips on getting the smell out? I would return it, that's not right. The Fibrox isn't pretty but it's a nice handle.
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Dec 26, 2019 18:37
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obi_ant posted:Any suggestions on a good wooden cutting board? America's Test Kitchen seems to suggest this here. But wondering if there was something else out there you goons like. I received a Larch Wood cutting board a few years ago as a Christmas present and it's spectacular. It costs far more than I would have spent on one myself, but it's definitely falls in the, "this is the last cutting board I'll ever need," category. It sees daily use, but I condition it with a mineral oil/beeswax blend about once a month and it's still in spectacular shape. One thing I'll say about wood cutting boards: you should consider buying one that's end-grain like the Larch board I linked. From what I've heard from chef friends, they stand up to abuse better because you're not cutting across the wood grain, are easier on your knives (again, because you're not cutting across the grain), and are generally thick enough that if you beat the poo poo out of them and/or they become terribly stained, you can pull out a power sander, refinish them and presto – you have a brand new cutting board all over again!
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Dec 27, 2019 19:46
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Could've sworn people were hyping up rubber cutting boards a few months ago. Was that just a fad?
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Dec 27, 2019 20:01
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horchata posted:Could've sworn people were hyping up rubber cutting boards a few months ago. Was that just a fad? I really considered one for myself and looked into getting one but: Good ones are really expensive They're very difficult to source in the US They do eventually wear out and need to be replaced. Some come with "layers" you can pull off but others just straight up need to be replaced.
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Dec 27, 2019 22:41
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horchata posted:Could've sworn people were hyping up rubber cutting boards a few months ago. Was that just a fad? Rubber/plastic always gets some attention because they're cheap, you can clean and sanitize them easier until they're too scratched up and you can toss them and buy another (and repeat that cycle a few times and still save money compared to a nice wood board).
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Dec 27, 2019 22:42
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I have several boards of this type (San Jamar) in a couple of sizes that have been previously recommended in this thread. They're great and I think they are best-in-class for plastic boards. https://www.amazon.com/San-Jamar-Sat-T-Grip-Co-Polymer-Standard/dp/B07JXV91TL They're not cheap but I love mine. I have no idea what anyone uses the hook for (hanging?) but they're terrific boards that don't slip and they have a handy ruler on them.
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Dec 28, 2019 17:40
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