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Maybe I should just get a CRT instead? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvRyVZWuvQ4 ItBreathes posted:You'll need a 2080ti and/or to turn down settings, depending on the game. Sadly, benchmarks at settings other than ultra are basically non-existent, so you're stuck with anecdotal responses. I've got my system hooked up to a 4k (2600, 1660ti) but I don't play super demanding games. It won't hold 60fps in destiny 2 at med-high settings, usually being in the 45-55 range. I think Gnumoic's post is the closest you're going to get to a concrete answer to your question, though other 4k goons may be able to chime in with their experiences. I see. Thanks.
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Dec 28, 2019 07:36
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maniacripper posted:I'm coming from a 4690K GTX970 PC that could still punch it out with most games but I just dropped 400 bucks on a 32inch 144hz LG that I wanted to start putting to good use. Some things I noticed having not built a PC in a while: quote:Are case manufacturers not putting speaker or power light LEDs on their cases anymore? I think the power wire is just linked to another wire but there's no POST beep codes, this is normal now? Chaos. I can't remember the last time I saw a speaker in a case going all the way back to mid 2000s. Beyond that whether or not the case has indicator LEDs or a reset button in addition to power are all things dependent on the case. One bit of happiness that seems to have happened in the last seven or so years is case vendors wiring all their front panel poo poo into a single dongle as is the case with the NZXT 510. In my build I was able to plug it straight into the motherboard and it was beautiful and angels sung and it was the best building experience ever. Prior to that it always involved carefully lining up ground wires and making sure I plugged them in aligned and completely with the motherboard pins. It wasn't difficult it was just stupidly tedious especially in the face of all these other completely standardized plugs and sockets. The audio POST beep codes are long gone but there are things to replace them: Fancier motherboards will integrate a port 80 read out right into the boards. This provides a small two digit display that will give you a hexadecimal code indicating what's going on. If things go wrong on the initial build it's really handy to have but only some motherboards have it. Others will use LED lighting schemes to indicate basic problems through colors or blink patterns. quote:Got a bad PCIe power cable that had me making GBS threads my pants for 5 minutes until I got to switching the cable to troubleshoot. Corsair, really? poo poo happens?  If you get a modular power supply you can at least try different cables and PSU ports just to be sure.quote:I had read before but had forgotten until I noticed in the BIOS that XMP still isn't an industry standard and that ASUS calls their something different apparently (DOCP). So I'm glad I noticed that because my buddy built a nearly identical system a few weeks ago and had no idea he was running his 3600 ddr4 at 2133. This is a good reason to make sure whatever RAM you buy is on the motherboard manufacturer's QVL list. It doesn't have to be on the list, but if it is and things don't work as advertised you have that fact working in your favor when you contact the memory manufacturer and/or motherboard manufacturer for help. quote:I'll find out how the audible the thing is under full load but that's for tomorrow when I actually put games on it. Game benchmarks will be good to see how the noise is on day-to-day use but probably won't max anything out. I suppose you could manually set fans at 100%, 80%, etc. to get a feel for what noise will be like in nightmare scenarios?
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Dec 28, 2019 09:22
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I'm playing Final Fantasy 12 Remaster in 4k maximum settings and it looks really good. But I think playing in 1080p looks 90% as good. I rather save the money and stick with $250 video cards.
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Dec 28, 2019 09:22
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Ugh the deal on the corsair 100 wasn't worth it, should have returned this when I noticed the optical bay was in the way of the cooler, got it all together but the power cables to the motherboard are in the worst spots and cable management is a nightmare. Spend more for a decent case always 
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Dec 28, 2019 14:28
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So I realized that if I go with the fractal define S2, the tomahawk max won't be able to plug the front USB c ports. Should I go for the Asus tuf 570 then? edit: looks like the TUF doesn't have USB-C front headers either. Recommendations for that? Lowness 72 fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Dec 28, 2019 |
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Dec 28, 2019 18:36
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Am I giving up anything by getting a MSI B450-A PRO MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard instead of the Tomahawk MAX? I gotta be honest, the only reason I care is because I think I prefer the normal-looking backplate compared to the X-TREME RED AND BLACK of the Tomahawk, but I have to admit, I don't care that much. The only difference I was able to tell is that the A PRO doesn't have hardware RAID, which I don't particularly care about. I've also heard that the VRM's aren't as good, but still servicable...whatever those are. My current part list, for reference. If nobody has an issue with anything on the list, I'll probably pull the trigger today or tomorrow. Unboxing Day fucked around with this message at 19:51 on Dec 28, 2019 |
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Dec 28, 2019 18:54
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Lowness 72 posted:So I realized that if I go with the fractal define S2, the tomahawk max won't be able to plug the front USB c ports. Should I go for the Asus tuf 570 then? The cheapest X570 board with a header for that is gonna be the Gigabyte Aorus Elite, for about $200. Or, like I mentioned in my edit before, just get a PCIe add-on card for the header and keep the Tomahawk Max.
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Dec 28, 2019 19:23
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Demostrs posted:The cheapest X570 board with a header for that is gonna be the Gigabyte Aorus Elite, for about $200. Or, like I mentioned in my edit before, just get a PCIe add-on card for the header and keep the Tomahawk Max. I'm sorry I didn't see your edit. That makes sense. Honestly I probably won't use it much as all my USB-C cables terminate in regular USB at the other end. I'm just gonna go ahead with the Tomahawk Max. Thank you!
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Dec 28, 2019 19:30
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Lowness 72 posted:So I realized that if I go with the fractal define S2, the tomahawk max won't be able to plug the front USB c ports. Should I go for the Asus tuf 570 then? Yeah I was having a similar issue because I think I really want the Define R6 (I'm an old man still using mounted HDDs, so I need the drive bays or I could probably go with the Meshify or something) but I can't find the non USB-C version of that case anywhere. Is it just out of stock, or did I pick a case they don't make anymore?
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Dec 28, 2019 20:58
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Saw this case and I physically could not stop myself from purchasing it. e: "case" may be a bit of an exaggeration
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Dec 28, 2019 22:21
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Jedi425 posted:Yeah I was having a similar issue because I think I really want the Define R6 (I'm an old man still using mounted HDDs, so I need the drive bays or I could probably go with the Meshify or something) but I can't find the non USB-C version of that case anywhere. Is it just out of stock, or did I pick a case they don't make anymore? It's been superseded by the usb-c version. They're literally the same other than the extra usb-c front port, though, so you're not missing anything by getting the newer version. You might even want to add a usb-c PCIe card to hook it up in the future, or keep the case for your next build!
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Dec 29, 2019 00:16
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What country are you in? USA What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? I am a programmer and the first priority for this computer is programming work.This means it must be powerful because of the billion things I have open at once. I work on various stacks, but basically my mac mini died and I think I now need to switch to linux. I have a windows computer that's decently powerful that I started with when I began programming, but now A LOT of stuff to work on databases don't work on windows, and only work on either mac or linux. I dont want to give apple anymore money for their underpowered computer so I'm going linux with the bonus that if something needs to be run in windows i can dual boot it. I am finishing up a big project for work now, and will have a few months of low difficulty work so I want to start getting into machine learning. I'd like to build a computer now that can be used as a starter for machine learning , but can be easily upgraded as time and requirements go on. What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. I think $1500-$1700 is enough to start If you’re doing professional work, what software do you need to use? What’s your typical project size and complexity? If you use multiple pieces of software, what’s your workflow? PyCharm/Webstorm, Photshop here and there, dozens of random small programming apps (github desktop etc) If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? I have a trip 4k 60hz monitor setup. I mostly run games now at 2k on 1 monitor with my 2070 super. It would be cool if I could get a stable 60 fps on 2k in assassins creed odyssey with this build, because the only other games I play are WoW and Hearthstone. AC:O is apparently CPU intensive. I read some guides on building a computer for machine learning, and used the high end build posted in OP and came up with this with a few notable changes PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor ($324.99 @ Newegg) CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i PRO 75 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($114.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus Prime X470-Pro ATX AM4 Motherboard ($143.98 @ Newegg) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($124.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Samsung 860 Evo 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($109.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: Asus GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER 8 GB Turbo EVO Video Card ($529.99 @ Amazon) Case: Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case ($179.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair HX Platinum 1200 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($249.98 @ Newegg) Total: $1778.89 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-28 18:30 EST-0500 The guide I read said to go with the 1920X because it has 12 cores, but I think the processor in the OP looked fine even though it only has 8 cores. I think the rule was 2 cores per GPU. I switched the mobo because with machine learning I understand that at some point I could feasibly need to put in 4 GPUs. The only mobo on pcpartpicker that supported 4 GPUs was $600+ and im not paying that so i found one that could support 3 and then if I need a 4th one I can replace the mobo. The reason I picked that PSU is because power requirements increase as you put more GPUs in and I do not want to have to install another PSU down the line. Id rather buy one that could handle multiple GPUs now, instead of buying less watts now and then spend more money on a new one down the line. I think I need that specific GPU because the machine learning guide I read said that the blower style was better for setups with multiple GPUs because you don't want the GPUs blowing on each other. That was the only RTX 2070 super I could find that had the blower setup. OPs guide said 16 gig is fine, but I need 32 gigs at minimum with all the crap I have open at once. Id rather pay the less for the 3200 because I need more if it. I picked the case for the same reason as a lot of the other reasons, it needs to be a big case so it can potentially fit more GPUs down the line. I dont want it to be a tight fit, it needs to be spacious because I want minimal hassle when I'm building the computer. Lastly, I went with that CPU cooler because I like how easy it is to install those liquid coolers instead of what I used to get which was the hyperx 212 cooler. That thing was scary as gently caress to install. On this build I got the same error message that was in OP: "Some AMD B450 chipset motherboards may need a BIOS update prior to using Matisse CPUs. Upgrading the BIOS may require a different CPU that is supported by older BIOS revisions." Do I need to worry about that? I absolutey refuse to update mobo drivers as part of the build process. It needs to be just assemble the parts together, and turn on. I'm not doing a bio update so how can I be sure mine doesn't need one? Any input and advice you guys can give would be greatly appreciated. I don't want to pull the trigger until I get some feedback.
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Dec 29, 2019 01:00
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The X470 boards might not be compatible out of the box depending on when it was manufactured. If it's a recent one it will have a sticker saying Ryzen 3000 ready on it.
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Dec 29, 2019 01:13
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Mu Zeta posted:The X470 boards might not be compatible out of the box depending on when it was manufactured. If it's a recent one it will have a sticker saying Ryzen 3000 ready on it. How can I tell that online and make sure that it has that sticker? I just clicked "View compatible motherboards" on the Ryzen and picked the one with 3 PCIe slots.
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Dec 29, 2019 01:19
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UtahIsNotAState posted:How can I tell that online and make sure that it has that sticker? I just clicked "View compatible motherboards" on the Ryzen and picked the one with 3 PCIe slots. MSI have made this very clear by making boards with a bigger BIOS chip and by using the "MAX" suffix, I don't know if anyone else has done anything else similar (but they should)
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Dec 29, 2019 01:41
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UtahIsNotAState posted:How can I tell that online and make sure that it has that sticker? I just clicked "View compatible motherboards" on the Ryzen and picked the one with 3 PCIe slots. I don't think you can, but MSI motherboards with the 'MAX' designation like this one always support 3XXX cpus out of the box. That said, just about any computer store near you will flash the BIOS for $10 or whatever. edit: beaten
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Dec 29, 2019 01:45
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UtahIsNotAState posted:ML stuff. If you're doing anything beyond hobby-level work with ML and don't have the budget for a 5 figure workstation, you should be training your models in the cloud instead of building a ridiculous multi GPU consumer desktop. Also, dual booting is for suckers - you can install Linux directly into Windows now. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Windows_Subsystem_for_Linux
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Dec 29, 2019 02:16
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KillHour posted:If you're doing anything beyond hobby-level work with ML and don't have the budget for a 5 figure workstation, you should be training your models in the cloud instead of building a ridiculous multi GPU consumer desktop. I mean that's kind of exactly what I said. I'm learning machine learning with some free time i'll have coming up to build hobby projects which will hopefully become part of a machine learning portfolio that I can show to potential employers or clients. I had the exact plan you mentioned to just use cloud based services until I figured out my needs, but there are a lot of articles saying not to do that. Here are some: quote:Assuming your 1 GPU computer for Deep Learning depreciates to $0 in 3 years (very conservative), the chart below shows that if you use it for up to 1 year, it’ll be 10x cheaper, including costs for electricity. Amazon discounts pricing if you have a multi-year contract, so the advantage is 4–6x for multi-year contracts. If you are shelling out tens of thousands of dollars for a multi-year contract, you should seriously consider building at 4–6x less money. The math gets more favorable for the 4 GPU version at 21x cheaper within 1 year! https://medium.com/the-mission/why-building-your-own-deep-learning-computer-is-10x-cheaper-than-aws-b1c91b55ce8c quote:I later found that not only building an almost state-of-the-art machine pays for itself in about 4 months, but it is significantly faster than a cloud server (mainly because of local data transfer speed, since everything is in the same box on the same bus, while the cloud service might have the compute units and storage in different racks — so even if the GPU is faster, it can’t get the data fast enough to benefit from that speed).
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Dec 29, 2019 02:42
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KillHour posted:
So I heard about this, and the problem with microsoft is that they don't explain how this helps out the day to day life of programmers. Their documentation and tutorials on this thing are terrible and I don't know if it will magically fix all the issues I have trying to develop stuff on windows. If I knew how it to use that on a day to day basis I've wondered if it would solve the problem of trying to develop anything on windows.
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Dec 29, 2019 02:45
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I'd be sceptical that you can run a full Linux environment under Windows just as if it were a dedicated Linux box. Although I haven't tried WSL for a long time. Last time I used it, when it was new, you couldn't escape the Linux environment and traverse the full filesystem. I'd be more inclined to dual-boot or run Windows virtualized.
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Dec 29, 2019 04:52
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UtahIsNotAState posted:How can I tell that online and make sure that it has that sticker? I just clicked "View compatible motherboards" on the Ryzen and picked the one with 3 PCIe slots. I guess you can't. At this point it's very likely to have the new BIOS on it. They came out a few months ago. But the only way to be 100% sure that you don't need to do a BIOS update is to get an X570 board or one of the MSI Max.
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Dec 29, 2019 04:56
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apropos man posted:I'd be sceptical that you can run a full Linux environment under Windows just as if it were a dedicated Linux box. Although I haven't tried WSL for a long time. Last time I used it, when it was new, you couldn't escape the Linux environment and traverse the full filesystem. ”the WSL FAQ” posted:You can also access your local machine’s filesystem from within the Linux Bash shell – you’ll find your local drives mounted under the /mnt folder. For example, your C: drive is mounted under /mnt/c: I mean, they have been working on it. It may or may not be appropriate for a given use case but that limitation is long gone. E: they’re very clear it’s a Linux CLI and that GUIs won’t run, and that there are some other limits still, so it’s not a full Linux environment. But it’s not bad and avoids dual-boot/virtualization for people who’d prefer to boot Windows.
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Dec 29, 2019 05:00
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WSL is coming along nicely and for light workloads it really does make a VM or dual booting completely unnecessary. If you're depending heavily on software or tools developed specifically for Linux though, you'll very quickly end up with a full environment.
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Dec 29, 2019 05:52
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KillHour posted:If you're doing anything beyond hobby-level work with ML and don't have the budget for a 5 figure workstation, you should be training your models in the cloud instead of building a ridiculous multi GPU consumer desktop. But then you have to run windows all the time
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Dec 29, 2019 08:39
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Unboxing Day posted:Am I giving up anything by getting a MSI B450-A PRO MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard instead of the Tomahawk MAX? I gotta be honest, the only reason I care is because I think I prefer the normal-looking backplate compared to the X-TREME RED AND BLACK of the Tomahawk, but I have to admit, I don't care that much. The only difference I was able to tell is that the A PRO doesn't have hardware RAID, which I don't particularly care about. I've also heard that the VRM's aren't as good, but still servicable...whatever those are. Voltage regulator modules. Cheaper ones have issues providing good power to high-drawing CPUs, which the 3600 isn't, so it shouldn't give you any issues. I wouldn't go shoving anything more powerful into it, so you'd probably have to replace the motherboard if you wanted to upgrade to the 4-series late next year if it's still compatible, but both myself and a lot of others in the thread are in the same boat there. As for the rest of the build, it's fine! The 3600X is really basically no improvement over the 3600, and either kind of stock cooler will be a bit loud, especially in a mesh case, so spending a little on something like a Cooler Master 212 might be worth your while.
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Dec 29, 2019 09:31
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I have been browsing builds on PC Part Picker and I'm feeling both overwhelmed and frustrated by the focus on aesthetics that the builds get in place of technical discussions, so I'll post here again. I need to get this sucker ordered so that I can assemble it soon, as my current computer is hopelessly out of date (though I did get Updates working again... just in time for Win7 to stop updating): What country are you in? Canada What are you using the system for? Web and Office? Gaming? Video or photo editing? Professional creative or scientific computing? Web, Office, Gaming (older titles that I've missed out on, like Civilization games and Warhammer: Total War 1/2) What's your budget? We usually specify for just the computer itself (plus Windows), but if you also need monitor/mouse/whatever, just say so. ~$1000 CAD, I have what I think is an acceptable monitor and mouse and will use them until they need replacing. If you're gaming, what is your monitor resolution / refresh rate? How fancy do you want your graphics, from “it runs” to “Ultra preset as fast as possible”? Somewhere in between "It Runs" and "Ultra" I really don't care what the tower looks like, and would take an efficient yet ugly case over a see-through.
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Dec 29, 2019 12:23
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Unboxing Day posted:Am I giving up anything by getting a MSI B450-A PRO MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard instead of the Tomahawk MAX? I gotta be honest, the only reason I care is because I think I prefer the normal-looking backplate compared to the X-TREME RED AND BLACK of the Tomahawk, but I have to admit, I don't care that much. The only difference I was able to tell is that the A PRO doesn't have hardware RAID, which I don't particularly care about. I've also heard that the VRM's aren't as good, but still servicable...whatever those are. No usb-c port and a slightly worse VRM. The VRM difference is pretty small and would only be important if you’re overclocking a 2700x or a 3700x+. Don’t bother overclocking 3rd-gen chips, though - it’s not worth it.
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Dec 29, 2019 12:33
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Professor Shark posted:I have been browsing builds on PC Part Picker and I'm feeling both overwhelmed and frustrated by the focus on aesthetics that the builds get in place of technical discussions, so I'll post here again. I need to get this sucker ordered so that I can assemble it soon, as my current computer is hopelessly out of date (though I did get Updates working again... just in time for Win7 to stop updating): This would be a decent start PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.99 @ Walmart) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H) Memory: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($39.99 @ Amazon) Video Card: *MSI GeForce GTX 1660 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card ($199.99 @ Newegg) Case: Phanteks P300 ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair CXM 550 W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($69.98 @ Amazon) Total: $744.92 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available *Lowest price parts chosen from parametric criteria Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-29 09:10 EST-0500 ~$200 for both the CPU and video card is about the sweet spot when it comes to bang for your buck. The price difference between 8gb and 16gb of RAM is rather negligible nowadays, so there isn't much reason not to get 16gb. MAX boards are supposed to be able to handle 3xxx gen Ryzen processors out of the box. Whether or not you need/want onboard wireless is something to consider. What kind of storage you need can vary, if you need fast load times you'll want to get a SSD (make sure it's compatible with the board & case slots) E: Older Corsair CX units were known to have issues, but I believe they've been fixed in more recent ones, you'll probably want confirmation on that. Syenite fucked around with this message at 15:30 on Dec 29, 2019 |
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Dec 29, 2019 15:19
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Professor Shark posted:I have been browsing builds on PC Part Picker and I'm feeling both overwhelmed and frustrated by the focus on aesthetics that the builds get in place of technical discussions, so I'll post here again. I need to get this sucker ordered so that I can assemble it soon, as my current computer is hopelessly out of date (though I did get Updates working again... just in time for Win7 to stop updating): ^^^^edit: huh, we ended up with a pretty similar list! I obviously hugged closer to the budget, but prices can vary if they want to just go to one retailer anyway. I felt that the Tomahawk is probably a little overkill for this build, and factored in a decent SSD and bigger storage drive. I go for 80 Plus Gold PSUs at a minimum, but it looks like a limited time deal so who knows. We agree on the case, though! Really, it's hard to find bad cases anymore, unless you go super cheap. I hate the look of really cheap ones anyway, they're all awkward and have bits that stick out everywhere. If you spend a bit more you can find something sleek and inoffensive, but it's really up to personal taste. Here's a cheapish list, with a Ryzen 5 3600 and a 1650 Super graphics card that'll run most stuff at 60fps on a 1080p monitor at high settings. You've got a 500GB SSD for Windows/programs and 2TB HDD for storage. Don't worry about the compatibility warning - MSI MAX motherboards can support 3XXX CPUs out of the box. You don't need a separate CPU cooler, since the 3600 comes with one, but it's known to be loud, so something like the 212 is a good aftermarket option. If you have any spare cash, put it into the graphics card - a 1660 Super or Ti can help push up your graphics settings further. Coucho Marx fucked around with this message at 15:55 on Dec 29, 2019 |
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Dec 29, 2019 15:49
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To note, not all CPU coolers come with AM4 mounting hardware out of the box, so if you get an aftermarket one you'll want to check that.
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Dec 29, 2019 16:16
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Last thing I need to order for my (first) build is the graphics card. I have an EVGA XC Ultra Black on my part pickers list but it is sold out everywhere I look. Any reason not to just go with the SC Ultra or XC Ultra? They seem to be close in price, with the same part number. https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jprm8M
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Dec 29, 2019 17:52
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UtahIsNotAState posted:I mean that's kind of exactly what I said. I'm learning machine learning with some free time i'll have coming up to build hobby projects which will hopefully become part of a machine learning portfolio that I can show to potential employers or clients. You're trying to get a job out of the stuff you're working with, and that goes a step beyond hobby. 1: You can train trivial/toy models on consumer GPUs, but you're going to run out of memory on anything modern and practical. The stuff you can do on one GPU is the stuff you can reasonably do at home. Once you've outgrown that, buying more graphics cards isn't going to help because it will speed up training times but not increase the complexity of the models you can build. Training speed isn't really important unless you're either getting paid or working towards a degree where you have a deadline to submit a paper. 2: That $800/month figure is bullshit. That's what you'd spend to have a dedicated server spun up 24/7. If you're doing this in your free time, figure out how many hours you'll actually need to train in a month. 3: Real companies don't do this stuff on a workstation. You need to be learning this on the actual platforms companies use if you want to translate this into a career. AWS has its own ML stack, different from Azure and different from GCS and you can't just emulate that at home. It's more important to understand the workflow of building, training and deploying your model in a cloud environment because that's what you're going to be doing IRL. 4: Companies don't care about projects or portfolios because they aren't going to spend the time going over your GitHub code. They want to see a vender cert or a degree. If you're not working towards one of those, you're not furthering your career in a meaningful way. Pick a cloud stack, find what certs they offer and put your budget towards getting that. I'm not saying don't build a computer and play with ML on it. I'm saying don't drop 3-4 grand on a multi GPU consumer setup in TYOOL 2020.
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Dec 29, 2019 20:36
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Coucho Marx posted:^^^^edit: huh, we ended up with a pretty similar list! I obviously hugged closer to the budget, but prices can vary if they want to just go to one retailer anyway. I felt that the Tomahawk is probably a little overkill for this build, and factored in a decent SSD and bigger storage drive. I go for 80 Plus Gold PSUs at a minimum, but it looks like a limited time deal so who knows. We agree on the case, though! Really, it's hard to find bad cases anymore, unless you go super cheap. I hate the look of really cheap ones anyway, they're all awkward and have bits that stick out everywhere. If you spend a bit more you can find something sleek and inoffensive, but it's really up to personal taste. I mostly agree with the choices for this build, but I pushed it all the way to the $1000 CAD mark with some tweaks (cheaper EVO cooler clone, only SSD storage, 1660 vs 1650S, and a PSU with a 10 year warranty vs 7). If the storage situation is going to be pressed because of only having 1 TB, you could fall back to the 512 GB version of the SU800 and add that WD Blue back in: PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($239.00 @ Canada Computers) CPU Cooler: Deepcool GAMMAXX 400 74.34 CFM CPU Cooler ($19.99 @ Canada Computers) Motherboard: MSI B450-A PRO MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Canada Computers) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($76.99 @ Newegg Canada) Storage: ADATA Ultimate SU800 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($119.99 @ Canada Computers) Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1660 6 GB OC Video Card ($279.00 @ Canada Computers) Case: Phanteks P300 ATX Mid Tower Case ($74.98 @ Amazon Canada) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Canada Computers) Total: $999.93 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-29 14:37 EST-0500 I also agree that if $1000 isn't a hard cap, get a 1660S. It's the best price/perf card on the market right now.
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Dec 29, 2019 20:39
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Professor Shark posted:I have been browsing builds on PC Part Picker and I'm feeling both overwhelmed and frustrated by the focus on aesthetics that the builds get in place of technical discussions, so I'll post here again. I need to get this sucker ordered so that I can assemble it soon, as my current computer is hopelessly out of date (though I did get Updates working again... just in time for Win7 to stop updating): Demostrs posted:I mostly agree with the choices for this build, but I pushed it all the way to the $1000 CAD mark with some tweaks (cheaper EVO cooler clone, only SSD storage, 1660 vs 1650S, and a PSU with a 10 year warranty vs 7). If the storage situation is going to be pressed because of only having 1 TB, you could fall back to the 512 GB version of the SU800 and add that WD Blue back in: This is pretty close to what I'd recommend, but this Gigabyte 1660 Ti for $330 is a better value than decent 1660 super models in Canada right now. If you like turning up graphics settings, I'd consider that upgrade for Warhammer 2 - it's pretty demanding on the graphics card and over the lifespan of the card I'll suspect you'll probably play some games that are more graphically demanding still. The 3600 is a great value, but if you want to cut costs a bit I'd consider moving down to a 2600. On a 60hz monitor there's not going to be any difference in performance currently, and it'll likely be a long while before there will be one. Because AMD cpu prices tend to go down, you could always drop in a cheap 8+ core 3rd- (maybe 4th- if it's compatible) gen Ryzen five years down the road. A 2600 plus ASRock B450 Pro4 would save ~$90 over the 3600+A Pro. The 2600 also doesn't have the 3600's boost fan revving issue, so the stock cooler is a little quieter. I'd also consider spending the extra $25 for a Fractal Design Meshify C. The P300 is decent, but the Meshify C has better airflow, better stock coolers, better build quality, and is a breeze to work in. There's also a solid panel version if you're willing to pay another $15 to avoid glass. Syenite posted:Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($39.99 @ Amazon) If there's one hard-and-fast rule of pc building in almost-2020, it's "always always have an SSD". Even if you're building a $200 pc for Grandma, spend $150 on a used Optiplex and then $50 on a 500GB SSD to pop in! Dealing with game loading times on spinning rust might be okay, but the nasty boot/wake times and thrashing whenever you're loading resources from multiple parts of the drive make running Windows on an HDD is a miserable experience. Stickman fucked around with this message at 21:21 on Dec 29, 2019 |
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Dec 29, 2019 21:19
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Okay, here's my final build. I took the 3600 suggestion into account and decided to get a Deepcool cooler instead. I also decided to stick with the TOMAHAWK MAX because I couldn't tell if the B450-A PRO MAX was black or actually brown, which since my case was going to be a see-through was a little more important to me. Probably going to buy the lot tonight unless there are any other suggestions. Thanks for your help, thread. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.99 @ Walmart) CPU Cooler: Deepcool GAMMAXX 400 74.34 CFM CPU Cooler ($20.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H) Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($71.50 @ B&H) Storage: Mushkin PILOT 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($199.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 8 GB PULSE Video Card ($329.99 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $1112.42 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-29 16:00 EST-0500 EDIT: After running the build by a discord, someone on the discord thought that $1.1k for a 5700 build is a "ripoff", and pulled this build out. I gotta be honest, I do not enjoy working on my current machine primarily because it's a microATX board and things are way too cramped. But it is a good deal cheaper than the TOMAHAWK. It also looks like they found some cheaper 3200-16 RAM and went with a Corsair CX power supply, and was able to put that saved money into a 5700 XT. Unboxing Day fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Dec 29, 2019 |
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Dec 29, 2019 22:02
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I wouldn't make any major changes but I think it's worth upgrading to the 5700xt. Maybe downgrade the 2tb drive to a 1tb for now (you can always add a SATA ssd later) and use the savings to get the XT. I would stick with everything else. The Corsair RMx has a 10 year warranty while the CX is 5. The PSU is the one place I wouldn't try to save money on. What kind of monitor do you have? It might be moot if you're on 1080p. Mu Zeta fucked around with this message at 22:42 on Dec 29, 2019 |
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Dec 29, 2019 22:29
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I really love working with Mini setups but man you definitely do pay a premium for the privilege.
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Dec 29, 2019 22:47
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Okay, I downgraded to the 1TB mentioned earlier, swapped out some cheaper 3200-16 RAM and got an 5700 XT and came in below my previous price. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($194.99 @ Walmart) CPU Cooler: Deepcool GAMMAXX 400 74.34 CFM CPU Cooler ($20.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX ATX AM4 Motherboard ($114.99 @ B&H) Memory: Team T-FORCE DARK Z 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($54.99 @ Newegg) Storage: HP EX950 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive ($126.99 @ Newegg) Video Card: Sapphire Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB PULSE Video Card ($403.98 @ Newegg) Case: Fractal Design Meshify C ATX Mid Tower Case ($99.98 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair RMx (2018) 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg) Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit (Purchased For $0.00) Total: $1096.90 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-12-29 16:45 EST-0500 Mu Zeta posted:What kind of monitor do you have? It might be moot if you're on 1080p. I'm on a 1920x1200 monitor right now, and if I get a new monitor it's going to be 1080 @ 144hz, not a higher resolution. However, I also have an Oculus Quest VR headset as well, which runs at VR resolutions at 72 hz, and upgrading to a 90hz headset is not out of the realm of possibility. So frankly, I'm not sure if I need the XT or not. Unboxing Day fucked around with this message at 23:42 on Dec 29, 2019 |
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Dec 29, 2019 22:49
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You can save slightly more with the HP EX920. It has way more user reviews so i trust that one more.
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Dec 29, 2019 22:58
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The ex950 is a great drive that uses the same controller as the Adata sx8200 Pro. It outperforms the ex920 in a number of ways, but for gaming and most applications you won't see a difference. At equal prices I'd recommend it over the ex920, but unless you running applications that can take advantage of it's small performance boosts it's not worth the extra $10.
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Dec 30, 2019 00:06
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