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You're not lying, you're just rounding up. Does anyone even take accurate measurements anyway? 9sqft is barely a cupboard.
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Jan 5, 2020 23:37
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I have crossed the Rubicon It needs another coat but I think it looks great so far!
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Jan 5, 2020 23:44
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Oh, you're THAT PO.
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Jan 6, 2020 00:07
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surf rock posted:My house is 991 square feet. I feel like whenever I go to sell, I'm going to get hosed by that missing 9 square feet as people set their minimum search parameters at 1000. What's the easiest way to add a small amount of square footage to my home? Aren't you down by the beach in California? It could be a pile of loose asbestos and lead paint powder held down by mercury, people will buy it.
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Jan 6, 2020 01:12
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Jaded Burnout posted:You're not lying, you're just rounding up. Does anyone even take accurate measurements anyway? 9sqft is barely a cupboard. Ya, round up for Zillow/Redfin, etc, and just be upfront. If someone asks, tell them it’s 991, and you rounded up to not be excluded by arbitrary internet filters. I’d be totally ok with that answer as a buyer.
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Jan 6, 2020 01:34
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MrYenko posted:Ya, round up for Zillow/Redfin, etc, and just be upfront. If someone asks, tell them it’s 991, and you rounded up to not be excluded by arbitrary internet filters. I’d be totally ok with that answer as a buyer. If someone asks go "huh, that's weird. I never trusted those sites anyways."
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Jan 6, 2020 01:44
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All actual interested buyers should be looking at the city assessors data anyway which has the real info. Trulia Zillow etc all lie on sq feet anyway and seem to inflate by including basements, while assesor data, at least in my region, always lists basements finished or not as separate sq foot items.
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Jan 6, 2020 01:50
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Been living in this house about 6 months and starting to notice this in the shower. This is mold right?  I have tried toothbrushing in baking soda with white vinegar but it didn’t seem to do anything. Suggestions?
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Jan 6, 2020 01:50
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How consistent around the shower is that? Reason being that it's common for showers to have been poorly installed, causing a massive dryrot headache when you pull it out.
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Jan 6, 2020 02:01
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Yep, that's mould and this is the best mould killer I've found: https://uk.hg.eu/products/mould/hg-mould-spray-05l
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Jan 6, 2020 02:03
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ntan1 posted:How consistent around the shower is that? When I have done tile (just floor and kitchen backsplashes, no wet floors), I used premixed grout with epoxy. I have no idea what was used here, but it wasn’t like this when we moved in and afaik the shower was done in 2009. I’ll see if I can find the stuff in the post after yours.
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Jan 6, 2020 02:10
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H110Hawk posted:If someone asks go "huh, that's weird. I never trusted those sites anyways." Sellers shouldn't be talking to buyers ever. Leave it up to your real estate agent after discussing your square footage concerns prior to listing.
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Jan 6, 2020 02:51
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Sirotan posted:I have crossed the Rubicon You missed about a foot up top OP (color is nice though. But I think you're gonna need alot of lights)
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Jan 6, 2020 03:36
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Took out the crawl space access hatch that was smooshed between a pair of 2' center ceiling joists and put in a pull-down ladder. Involved cutting two ceiling joists, reinforcing the beams with a 6'x30" box frame and putting in an additional crosspiece to get a 54"x26" opening. I quite enjoyed the Simpson strong-tie brackets, made everything super easy. Hung a pair of 2x4s under the new opening to rest the ladder assembly on while I attached it into the frame from in the attic, effectively boarding myself in Cask of Amontillado style, relying on the good graces of my wife to get me out. She stripped one of the screws and there was a few minutes of panic until we realized it was unscrewed enough to pivot the board around the screw and free me from my insulation filled prison. That's what I get for assembling it with the impact driver and expecting her to get it disassembled with a cordless drill. The joists are on 2' centers and there's 8' between the roof supports, so I'm getting a pallet of 2'x4' 3/4" plywood delivered to put down as floorboards, and we'll have added close to 350sqft of storage space. Not climate controlled, but that's what storage totes and vacuum bags are for. It'll be nice not having to store the christmas poo poo in the garage.
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Jan 6, 2020 03:54
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So I live in a cold state, moved in September, it gets cold in Oct and beyond. My previous house was raised ranch style, the garage was effectively in the basement under part of the living area. When I had that, the garage was always around 50degrees in winter, even though I kept the HVAC vents closed, stuff still leaked in. I consider this a good thing. I now have a house from the 80s with what I will say is a traditional attached garage, no hvac to it, it's drywalled so I presume there's some insulation there, but am not sure. It gets cold as gently caress, I would like to find a happy medium of price / temperature and am eyeballing garage heaters to keep it at 45deg or so so life sucks less in the morning when going to work. Has anyone else done this? Amazon has a crapload of natural gas as well as electric ones. gas obviously should be cheaper outside of the installation, but curious if anyone else knows what type of cost per month this would add, outside of the $1k or so for install ($500 heater + $500 to run gas lines?)
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Jan 7, 2020 17:24
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That's a cost per BTU per hour calculation, with inputs that are entirely unknowable. If you can ensure the garage isn't a leaky uninsulated mess it shouldn't be much different as compared to heating a similar square footage in your home to comfort temperatures. Assuming your heat source in there is at least as efficient.
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Jan 7, 2020 17:31
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I have also been made aware that this will require a drain, which my garage does not have. Unsure how to solve that problem. If i put some sort of pipe through/out the wall to the outside, I'd expect it would freeze, at which point I'd need.. yet another heater to heat that? Heater inception. I realize I didn't give a scientific value, but hoping that someone else lives in cold and can say if it costs $20 or $200 a month, perhaps also knowing their temperature.
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Jan 7, 2020 17:44
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Seeing drywall and assuming insulation is a pretty rear end-u-me situation. Drill a small hole and verify. Also make sure your door seals all the way around, and is itself insulated. Some rigid foam board can be generally added to a well tuned door for cheap r-value. If you have never cleaned or lubed the tracks it's time to do that. Well functioning modern garage doors are surprisingly quiet to operate. If there is a giant gently caress off spring and it's loud or at all jerky / rough going up or down a 1 time call out of a garage door repair company would be well worth your money. From there keep the tracks clean and lubed (white lithium spray).
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Jan 7, 2020 17:48
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falz posted:I have also been made aware that this will require a drain, which my garage does not have. Unsure how to solve that problem. If i put some sort of pipe through/out the wall to the outside, I'd expect it would freeze, at which point I'd need.. yet another heater to heat that? Heater inception. Condensate drains don't need to be heated and will work just fine if properly sloped. The real problem with a heater that needs a condensate drain in an otherwise unconditioned space is that you need to run it to keep the space it's in conditioned to at least above freezing or the condensate in the lines/pan will freeze and you won't be able to start it until it thaws. Unless you do stupid stuff like I've done to get around this (includes shoving a 100 watt light bulb inside the heater).
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Jan 7, 2020 17:48
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falz posted:So I live in a cold state, moved in September, it gets cold in Oct and beyond. My previous house was raised ranch style, the garage was effectively in the basement under part of the living area. When I had that, the garage was always around 50degrees in winter, even though I kept the HVAC vents closed, stuff still leaked in. I consider this a good thing. I live in North Dakota and have a similar situation as you. I installed this (https://smile.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F260560-MHU80NG-Natural/dp/B00KRFVJ4Y) about 6 years ago and it does a great job. I keep my garage at 60 and it doesn't add much to my gas bill in the winter. Maybe another $20. My garage is insulated pretty well and I upgraded my garage doors to a better insulated model. My garage also faces the west and we get a fair amount of wind to go with our temps well below freezing.
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Jan 7, 2020 18:38
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Faustian Bargain posted:Been living in this house about 6 months and starting to notice this in the shower.
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Jan 7, 2020 20:20
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God drat, got my electric bill for December, and because of weird chicanery at the power department and them charging me too much at first, then issuing a credit, then forgetting to send a bill in Oct, I could barely make heads or tails of my November bill to try and get an accurate assessment of how loving expensive it is to heat my loving home (which, as a reminder, is all electric, a rarity up here in New England for good loving reason.) $260. For a relatively MILD winter month. Going from previous places I've lived in that are about the same square footage, maybe $70 of that is my non-heating electricity usage, so sitting here at like $190 worth to heat my home, definitely more than when I had gas. Those were usually in the $90-$120 for December, then maybe like $110-$130 in Jan-Feb. And again, this is a mild month, I wouldn't be surprised to see a $300 bill for Jan and/or Feb. I also wasn't heating 2 of my rooms since they weren't getting used yet, but just finished the painting and renovation of one of the spare bedrooms and it's going to be getting used soon, so one more room to heat on top of that. I'm seriously looking into getting one of those cold-climate heat pumps...probably not for next year, have to take care of a couple other things first, but maybe for winter of 2022. Anyone have any experiences with those? I know that on really cold days I would likely have to still use some kind of supplemental heat, but it's not like it costs anything to just KEEP my current electric baseboards and just keep them off until the really cold days, so I could get by with a regular heat pump, I should 't need the kind that has its own built-in restivive heaters (unless they all just have those by default?) DrBouvenstein fucked around with this message at 21:11 on Jan 7, 2020 |
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Jan 7, 2020 21:08
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DrBouvenstein posted:I'm seriously looking into getting one of those cold-climate heat pumps...probably not for next year, have to take care of a couple other things first, but maybe for winter of 2022. Are you talking about a more conventional ducted air-source heat pump, or a mini split(s)? That is, do you have duct work? I actually have a 3 ton ducted heat pump and recently installed a 1 ton mini split for a room that had insufficient ducts. The Mitsubishi mini split is absolutely amazing, even on very cold days. Mitsubishi is the leader for these units, and their Hyper Heat models can do 100% rated capacity at 5F.
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Jan 7, 2020 22:18
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gently caress, I guess I screwed through some romex hanging my shutters
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Jan 8, 2020 03:40
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B-Nasty posted:Are you talking about a more conventional ducted air-source heat pump, or a mini split(s)? That is, do you have duct work? I was thinking a mini-split, I don't have any existing ductwork, but since my living room is like 1/3 of my total square footage, and is sort-of open with my kitchen, just a mini-split there would be good enough I think, and then like I said I still will have the electric baseboards for any additional heat needed if it's too cold and/or in other rooms. I have both an unfinished attic and basement spaces that could be used to install ductwork, in theory (I imagine basement is easier,) but it will take a few years to start seeing any ROI/savings on even just a mini-split (using my electric company's website, which adds in their rebates and estimates $4000 for a mini-split install, anywhere from 3 to 5 years), so I imagine paying for a larger system with ductwork would mean I might not see any ROI until maybe 8-10 years, possibly more.
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Jan 8, 2020 17:31
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There is currently a crew of about 8 in my basement putting in a perimeter drain, and one of the guys is using airpods as ear protection. 
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Jan 8, 2020 17:37
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DrBouvenstein posted:I was thinking a mini-split, I don't have any existing ductwork, but since my living room is like 1/3 of my total square footage, and is sort-of open with my kitchen, just a mini-split there would be good enough I think, and then like I said I still will have the electric baseboards for any additional heat needed if it's too cold and/or in other rooms. How open your house is was going to be my next question. Considering how well the minis work, there's almost zero compelling reason to run ducts, especially in smaller homes. Even in homes with ducts, like mine, it's pretty hard to get consistent temps upstairs/downstairs, large rooms/small rooms, etc., all problems that individual split heads solve nicely. Not to mention the fact that the efficiency of these units are so high, largely because they don't need to push huge volumes of air through uninsulated and leaky ductwork. Given your location, it sounds like it would be worth it to you to go with one of the higher HSPF and cold-weather units, because any heat the heat pump provides will be 2.5-4x cheaper than your baseboard heat. As a bonus, you get AC and dehumidification for those few months where it matters. As I mentioned, the Mitsubishi Hyper-Heat model lines are pretty much the Cadillac of mini splits, and I predict you will be very happy with one of these units.
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Jan 8, 2020 17:53
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Just make sure that if you go for a heat pump, it's rated to work in the coldest temperatures your area experiences. It's not going to do you any good if the pump is rated to -10F but those January and February cold snaps get to -15F or -20F. Just because it says "cold weather" on the label doesn't mean that it fits your needs. e: Unless of course you have a secondary heat source and are willing to use it when the heat pump kicks out.
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Jan 8, 2020 17:55
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PremiumSupport posted:Just make sure that if you go for a heat pump, it's rated to work in the coldest temperatures your area experiences. It's not going to do you any good if the pump is rated to -10F but those January and February cold snaps get to -15F or -20F. Luckily, you don't have to do your own calculations, the number used to figure this out is the 99% Heating Design temp, which can be found here: https://www.energystar.gov/sites/de...Homes_Rev10.pdf For most areas outside of Alaska, this temp is well above -20F. Obviously, you do need to consider supplemental heat for the extremes, but it sounds like DrBouvenstein has that covered with the baseboards.
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Jan 8, 2020 18:12
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Plus once you are at the set point temperature, assuming you designed your system correctly, they are shockingly quiet compared to forced air. Try not to futz with the setpoints all drat day, they work best when left alone at a comfortable temperature.
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Jan 8, 2020 18:43
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B-Nasty posted:Luckily, you don't have to do your own calculations, the number used to figure this out is the 99% Heating Design temp, which can be found here: https://www.energystar.gov/sites/de...Homes_Rev10.pdf Yeah, I just happen to be in one of the regions where a -10F heat pump just won't cut it and a -15F would be pushing it, so I have to be cautious when recommending them: Clay County Minnesota. Our 99% Heating Design Temp is -16F
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Jan 8, 2020 19:14
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B-Nasty posted:Luckily, you don't have to do your own calculations, the number used to figure this out is the 99% Heating Design temp, which can be found here: https://www.energystar.gov/sites/de...Homes_Rev10.pdf Literally one page on this 100+ page document is screwed up (table off of the page) and it's where I live. Neat.
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Jan 8, 2020 19:28
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PremiumSupport posted:Yeah, I just happen to be in one of the regions where a -10F heat pump just won't cut it and a -15F would be pushing it, so I have to be cautious when recommending them: Clay County Minnesota. Our 99% Heating Design Temp is -16F Having never lived inside of a chest freezer myself, what is the most common way to heat homes there without breaking the bank every Winter? It seems like unless you have access to natural gas, have a really small home, or one insulated to PassivHaus-level standards, you're looking at either chopping wood or crying when the oil/propane guy shows up again for the 3rd time in a month.
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Jan 8, 2020 19:39
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Having a great time at home today https://i.imgur.com/qnqVBO8.mp4 yes there is sound, turn it up to 11 to accurately replicate what I'm listening to right now   And in what is possibly the best timing possible, the magical stump elves stopped by yesterday and spirited away the rest of my hideous stump (I didn't even know they were coming so it was a complete surprise):  which made this guy's life infinitely easier:  Anyway yeah I've been here the whole time, holed up on my second floor with a space heater (furnace is off and it's 21F out) and my guinea pigs who are all freaked out. This is a three day job but supposedly they will be done with all the digging today.
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Jan 8, 2020 21:01
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Sirotan posted:Anyway yeah I've been here the whole time, holed up on my second floor with a space heater (furnace is off and it's 21F out) and my guinea pigs who are all freaked out. This is a three day job but supposedly they will be done with all the digging today. I spent months working from home with this sort of thing going on (headphones under ear protection at my desk) and, yeah, it loving sucks. Never doing that again.
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Jan 8, 2020 21:13
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B-Nasty posted:Having never lived inside of a chest freezer myself, what is the most common way to heat homes there without breaking the bank every Winter? It seems like unless you have access to natural gas, have a really small home, or one insulated to PassivHaus-level standards, you're looking at either chopping wood or crying when the oil/propane guy shows up again for the 3rd time in a month. Forced air natural gas or propane is probably the most common in recent construction. Electric baseboard was popular back in the 70's and 80's when everyone was convinced that cheap electricity was just a few years away, but a pretty expensive option these days. Older construction tends to have propane, natural gas, or fuel oil boilers and hot water heating. It's also not like it's always that cold out. We just have a few weeks a year, usually in January and February where it is. Most of the time it's around 20F outside in the winter months.
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Jan 8, 2020 21:36
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PremiumSupport posted:Forced air natural gas or propane is probably the most common in recent construction. Electric baseboard was popular back in the 70's and 80's when everyone was convinced that cheap electricity was just a few years away, but a pretty expensive option these days. Older construction tends to have propane, natural gas, or fuel oil boilers and hot water heating. Wood isn't uncommon. My parents first house in VT had an insert to the fireplace to make a woodstove for the bottom part of a raised ranch. Not bad, but not great. When they bought the colonial, they had a full chimney put in. The first dedicated woodstove was okay. Replacing 90s carpet with 1' square tile helped create radiant floor heating, which was a boost. Replacing the stove with a Jotul was amazing. When I was there on break or after grad school and stayed up late, we could keep that sucker running 24/7, since it had a cleanout tray. That heated all of the first floor, and some of the second. There was a small woodstove in the basement for the entertainment room, but that wasn't run nonstop. They have an oil furnace (and the sellers had a coal furnace that we eventually got rid of), but fuel oil prices combined with an steep, insane, lovely driveway, 5 cords of wood worked pretty well. I have friends who live quite a bit further out, and they have propane, plus a pellet stove, and an array of batteries to run the pellet stove for 2-3 days if they lose power.
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Jan 8, 2020 21:49
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Hell yeah they ruptured my water line
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Jan 8, 2020 22:33
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Alarbus posted:Wood isn't uncommon. My parents first house in VT had an insert to the fireplace to make a woodstove for the bottom part of a raised ranch. Not bad, but not great. When they bought the colonial, they had a full chimney put in. The first dedicated woodstove was okay. Replacing 90s carpet with 1' square tile helped create radiant floor heating, which was a boost. Replacing the stove with a Jotul was amazing. When I was there on break or after grad school and stayed up late, we could keep that sucker running 24/7, since it had a cleanout tray. That heated all of the first floor, and some of the second. There was a small woodstove in the basement for the entertainment room, but that wasn't run nonstop. Wood isn't really sustainable as a primary heat source in my area, but there are a few houses that use it. We're on the plains, and while there are trees, most of them are either in narrow corridors around rivers or were planted as windbreaks by farmers. We don't have huge forests close by. A hour or so away in Lakes country though it's a different story. Many cabins out there are heated by wood. Here though back in the day everyone used coal, shipped in by the railroad from western North Dakota. The boilers and furnaces that used the coal have been replaced over the years by oil or gas burning appliances.
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Jan 8, 2020 22:59
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Sirotan posted:Hell yeah they ruptured my water line hell yeah friend
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Jan 9, 2020 00:31
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