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Lennox or Milwaukee.
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Dec 30, 2019 00:59
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sharkytm posted:Lennox or Milwaukee. The dewalt demolition/wood with nails in it ones are fine too. You basically get what you pay for with sawzall blades and you’re probably gonna rattle your teeth out or break your elbow when it binds no matter blades you use
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Dec 30, 2019 05:04
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coathat posted:I didn't have any good magnets and her house while solidly built and well insulated for the time it was made was also made by people with quite loose ideas of measurements and a strong disregard for doing anything the way a normal person would. Yeah, my house is the same way - literally no stud or joist has ever been where it has supposed to be in relation to another stud, anytime I've ever hung anything. Most reliable method by far has been a commercial magnetic studfinder.
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Dec 30, 2019 06:06
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Had a fun one the other day where I Very Cleverly referred to photos of when the wall was built to see where the studs were, and pointed out a choice spot for the electrician to put a gang box. Turns out another stud had been put in after the photo was taken and he cut straight into it.
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Dec 30, 2019 16:02
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You can't predict where studs are going to go.
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Dec 30, 2019 17:24
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I can't wait until some kind of ultrasound becomes as cheap as IR cameras have become so I can just have pictures of what's inside my walls.
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Dec 30, 2019 17:44
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That sounds terrifying.
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Dec 30, 2019 18:19
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stealie72 posted:I can't wait until some kind of ultrasound becomes as cheap as IR cameras have become so I can just have pictures of what's inside my walls. Take a lightweight hammer and thump it (the wall). Unless it's plaster and lath, you should be able to identify the thunk sound vs the thonk sound pretty easily.
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Dec 30, 2019 19:26
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Mr. Mambold posted:Take a lightweight hammer and thump it (the wall). Unless it's plaster and lath, you should be able to identify the thunk sound vs the thonk sound pretty easily.
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Dec 30, 2019 19:41
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I've had this guy for years now and I love it. Everything I had before it was 10 bucks though. https://www.amazon.com/Franklin-Sensors-FS71002B-ProSensor-Precision/dp/B0711JZS33/ref=sr_1_42?keywords=stud+finder&qid=1577732336&sr=8-42
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Dec 30, 2019 20:00
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Mr. Mambold posted:Take a lightweight hammer and thump it (the wall). Unless it's plaster and lath, you should be able to identify the thunk sound vs the thonk sound pretty easily. This becomes less useful in a world where studwork is arbitrarily mixed with plaster on brick, framing and plasterboard on brick, and dot & dab on brick, any of which can give false readings for the ol' knock trick.
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Dec 30, 2019 21:08
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Jaded Burnout posted:This becomes less useful in a world where studwork is arbitrarily mixed with plaster on brick, framing and plasterboard on brick, and dot & dab on brick, any of which can give false readings for the ol' knock trick. In that case, Take a
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Dec 30, 2019 21:34
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Mr. Mambold posted:In that case, Take a I prefer thumping my own head with one; clarity arrives sooner.
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Dec 30, 2019 21:52
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heffray posted:If the battery kit and tool are separate SKUs, you can also return the battery set separately: Home Depot prorates the discount across both items, and they'll each have a Max Return Value listed on the receipt. For example, with the current free tool promo with 2x 3Ah batteries, if you buy it with the 3 gallon wet/dry vac you're paying $49.50 for the vac and $49.50 for the battery kit. This is a nice observation. The best deal right now it seems is the $99 battery kit with the $120 brush-less sawzall for free. When you add them to your cart they're $45 and $55 respectively. I'm planning to buy them for the batteries at $45 and decide whether to keep the brusheless sawzall or not (I have the non-brushless one).
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Jan 1, 2020 17:06
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Mr. Mambold posted:Take a lightweight hammer and thump it (the wall). Unless it's plaster and lath, you should be able to identify the thunk sound vs the thonk sound pretty easily. Tools: you should be able to identify the thunk sound vs the thonk sound pretty easily
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Jan 1, 2020 19:49
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If you can stand drilling a hole, borescopes for your smart phone are cheap now.
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Jan 6, 2020 18:09
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well my future mother in law sent us a battery snow thrower. but our snow is all compacted and hard from a partial thaw so i can't go play with my new toy 
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Jan 9, 2020 18:13
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So my dad bought me a WEN 10" Bandsaw for my birthday a while back: https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-3-5-Amp-10-in-2-Speed-Band-Saw-with-Stand-and-Worklight-3962/206587103 I'm trying to decide if it's worth keeping (eating up shop footprint) or returning for a gift card. I do some hobbyist wood-working and DIY home stuff. I've got a sliding dual-bevel miter saw and a cheap ryobi table saw (which I inherited from my father in law). I've also got a circular saw with a track system. Thoughts? If I wanted to reduce my shop footprint, which of the three (chop/miter saw, table saw, band saw) do you think is the most redundant given that I have a circular saw as well?
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Jan 9, 2020 18:50
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In my non-professional opinion, your redundancy would be the table saw if you have a track saw and a band saw.
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Jan 9, 2020 19:15
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AFewBricksShy posted:In my non-professional opinion, your redundancy would be the table saw if you have a track saw and a band saw. I would not say a table saw is and track saw are redundant but the Ryobi table saw is a piece of poo poo.
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Jan 9, 2020 19:24
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Hubis posted:So my dad bought me a WEN 10" Bandsaw for my birthday a while back: https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-3-5-Amp-10-in-2-Speed-Band-Saw-with-Stand-and-Worklight-3962/206587103 Whats the last big project or use you had for your table saw? You probably can get by without it if you're comfortable with the other tools
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Jan 9, 2020 19:27
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Hubis posted:So my dad bought me a WEN 10" Bandsaw for my birthday a while back: https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-3-5-Amp-10-in-2-Speed-Band-Saw-with-Stand-and-Worklight-3962/206587103 Always get rid of the most garbagey tools, no matter what other factors.
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Jan 9, 2020 20:10
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Hubis posted:So my dad bought me a WEN 10" Bandsaw for my birthday a while back: https://www.homedepot.com/p/WEN-3-5-Amp-10-in-2-Speed-Band-Saw-with-Stand-and-Worklight-3962/206587103 Most of your tools are great for making straight cuts or accurate angle cuts, the band saw is great for cutting curves, it can even do straight cuts if you have to. About the only thing I can think of that you can do on the table saw that you can not do with another tool is making rabbits or dados, but I think you could also do those better and easier with either a router table, or a hand held router. Specifically because you have the track saw and limited space, I would say remove the table saw. Your band saw is no doubt junk, but in that price range its the exact same junk as what is sold by Ryobi, Harbor Freight, Craftsman, etc. I own the lime green flavor and I
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Jan 9, 2020 22:07
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Whats the last big project or use you had for your table saw? You probably can get by without it if you're comfortable with the other tools I've actually never used the table saw (it arrived with a ton of his other stuff which all went into storage in the workshop area as well, which I'm only now getting around to clearing out so I can work on some stuff). Mr. Mambold posted:Always get rid of the most garbagey tools, no matter what other factors. I feel like this is the table saw. I had to go through and rub spirits on all the plastic/rubber knobs as they were super gummy and I put some wax on the sliding parts, but other than that I haven't given it a good inspection. It's your standard portable jobsite table saw. Crotch Fruit posted:Most of your tools are great for making straight cuts or accurate angle cuts, the band saw is great for cutting curves, it can even do straight cuts if you have to. About the only thing I can think of that you can do on the table saw that you can not do with another tool is making rabbits or dados, but I think you could also do those better and easier with either a router table, or a hand held router. Specifically because you have the track saw and limited space, I would say remove the table saw. Your band saw is no doubt junk, but in that price range its the exact same junk as what is sold by Ryobi, Harbor Freight, Craftsman, etc. I own the lime green flavor and I This is kind of my gut as well. I was planning on buying a jigsaw (which I may still eventually, just for the flexibility) but this feels like it fills that same niche. Rabbets and Dados I'd probably do with my hand router, and yeah I feel like putting together a table for it is probably one of my near future projects (thus the desire to free up space). A table saw would let me mess around with some "table saw ninja" stuff like a box joint jig. I kind of think the miter saw might be the least flexible tool, but I've also got it on wide stand w/ storage underneath that while nice eats up a lot of floor space. Maybe I'll refactor into something with fold-out work supports instead.
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Jan 9, 2020 22:54
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I don't think you understand how lovely that tablesaw is. You can't do any of those things with it. The miter slot is not standard size and has protruding "hold downs" so you can't exactly build any proper sleds. The arbor is not long enough to hold a dado stack. It is literally a saw with a table on it. One nice thing I will say is that the saw will not die, I left mine outside for a year and the motor still spun up and being that its all plastic and aluminum there was no rust on it. Sell it on craigslist for $50-75, buy a Dewalt job site if that is all you can fit later.
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Jan 9, 2020 23:25
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JEEVES420 posted:I don't think you understand how lovely that tablesaw is. You can't do any of those things with it. The miter slot is not standard size and has protruding "hold downs" so you can't exactly build any proper sleds. The arbor is not long enough to hold a dado stack. It is literally a saw with a table on it. One nice thing I will say is that the saw will not die, I left mine outside for a year and the motor still spun up and being that its all plastic and aluminum there was no rust on it. Thank you. This is what I needed to be told.
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Jan 10, 2020 03:40
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What is the best way to cut through relatively thin (1-3") ice somewhat accurately? I have a pond with fish in it and I break the ice usually for them when it freezes but I also like to do Andy Goldsworthy inspired stuff with it and I have some big plans involving precise pieces. I'm tempted to break big chunks and set up for my circular saw but they get very heavy very fast. Handsaw and waders? Am I overlooking some easy solution? Walk out on the ice with a sawzall and cut a circle around myself?
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Jan 10, 2020 19:41
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Oxy-acetylene torch? Bringing a corded electrical power tool into a lake full of water doesn’t seem like a great idea? Don’t they do ice sculptures with chainsaws?
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Jan 10, 2020 20:24
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:What is the best way to cut through relatively thin (1-3") ice somewhat accurately? I have a pond with fish in it and I break the ice usually for them when it freezes but I also like to do Andy Goldsworthy inspired stuff with it and I have some big plans involving precise pieces. I'm tempted to break big chunks and set up for my circular saw but they get very heavy very fast. Handsaw and waders? Am I overlooking some easy solution? Walk out on the ice with a sawzall and cut a circle around myself? Post/username combo right here. Use your wand  Chainsaw?
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Jan 10, 2020 20:26
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There are saws designed for cutting blocks of lake ice, but the best place to find one of those is probably a history museum  e: googled "ice saw" and apparently this is a product that is still available! and yes, it's made by some guy in rural minnesota lol http://www.icesaw.com/ Lutha Mahtin fucked around with this message at 20:37 on Jan 10, 2020 |
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Jan 10, 2020 20:29
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^^holy poo poo! Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Oxy-acetylene torch? Bringing a corded electrical power tool into a lake full of water doesn’t seem like a great idea? Don’t they do ice sculptures with chainsaws? It should be cold enough that the ice will be completely clear and I was hoping to make a ~10' spire with some clean joints, I figured a chainsaw would just make a mess of things but after looking a couple of youtube videos up that looks really doable good call. I'll definitely have to use a torch or some heat source to connect the pieces before they freeze.
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Jan 10, 2020 20:32
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Battery powered sawzall imo. Torch wouldn't really give you a clean edge.
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Jan 10, 2020 20:39
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I'm 90% certain that you can do it by just ice skating in a circle around your foes.
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Jan 10, 2020 21:01
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Oscillating Multi-Tool? You just need to do a plunge cut into the ice and cut a neat block, and that's kind of their thing, right?
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Jan 10, 2020 21:32
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Hubis posted:Thank you. This is what I needed to be told. Seriously, I've been using a Ryobi TS for a couple years and have never been able to figure out how to use it in a way that feels safe, effective, or accurate. I just got a new Delta 36-725 and it's a completely different experience. Everything about the Ryobi TS is garbage. If you've got a good table saw that you use a lot, getting rid of the miter saw might be a better idea, since with a nice crosscut sled the table saw is probably just as good, if not better for crosscuts than the miter saw. I still like having a miter saw, especially for rough 2x4-style construction projects.
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Jan 10, 2020 22:48
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:What is the best way to cut through relatively thin (1-3") ice somewhat accurately? I have a pond with fish in it and I break the ice usually for them when it freezes but I also like to do Andy Goldsworthy inspired stuff with it and I have some big plans involving precise pieces. I'm tempted to break big chunks and set up for my circular saw but they get very heavy very fast. Handsaw and waders? Am I overlooking some easy solution? Walk out on the ice with a sawzall and cut a circle around myself? Serious question- though, why? MRC48B posted:Battery powered sawzall imo. Yeah. Drill a 1" starter hole with your handy drill (not set on hammer) and just cut.
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Jan 11, 2020 00:43
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more falafel please posted:Seriously, I've been using a Ryobi TS for a couple years and have never been able to figure out how to use it in a way that feels safe, effective, or accurate. I just got a new Delta 36-725 and it's a completely different experience. Everything about the Ryobi TS is garbage. If you've got a good table saw that you use a lot, getting rid of the miter saw might be a better idea, since with a nice crosscut sled the table saw is probably just as good, if not better for crosscuts than the miter saw. I still like having a miter saw, especially for rough 2x4-style construction projects. With the benefit of hindsight, I think I would try and pare down my tool set to: Decent table saw Lunchbox Planer Router Table Drill Press + various handheld tools (jigsaw, trim router, circ saw w/ track) People talk up the benefits of having a good band saw (and I can see why) but I'm not sure how much I would end up re-sawing thick stock and that kind of seems like their main thing.
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Jan 11, 2020 03:07
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I'd say that the bandsaw's big strengths are resawing (or just generally cutting through really thick material), curved cuts, and easy and safe tenons. None of these are particularly essential jobs, so yeah, unless you're like me and refuse to have a tablesaw in your shop, bandsaws aren't really essential. If you don't have / don't want a table saw, then bandsaws also become your default ripping tool. They can't crosscut the middle of the board of course. Personally, I'd rank a miter saw above a drill press, making my workhorse tools the bandsaw, miter saw, router table, and lunchbox planer. Miter saws are great for accurately crosscutting boards. Sure a table saw can do that, but running a 6'+ long board through a table saw is not my idea of a fun time, and they're also not great for precisely shaving off a bit off the end of a board. I'm still figuring out the main uses for a drill press; until I got one, I mostly just used a guide jig and a drill when I needed to drill straight into something. Hogging out material from the middle of something is an obvious and nice use, but it's nothing that can't be done with just a chisel (which you'll need anyway to clean up the edges after the drill press is done).
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Jan 11, 2020 03:27
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I'd say that the bandsaw's big strengths are resawing (or just generally cutting through really thick material), curved cuts, and easy and safe tenons. None of these are particularly essential jobs, so yeah, unless you're like me and refuse to have a tablesaw in your shop, bandsaws aren't really essential. If you don't have / don't want a table saw, then bandsaws also become your default ripping tool. They can't crosscut the middle of the board of course. Those are all some really good points. The table saw does seem like it can do a ton of different things, but I actually had an opportunity to try some of the exact things you mentioned (ripping long/sheet goods, wide cross-cuts, shaving to sneak up on a fit) and it was incredibly awkward. A variety of sleds / guides / feed tables could make it easier, but in all cases I'd probably have been better off with either a miter/chop saw or a track/band saw. E: haha Google just recommended this to me, which actually seems like a stunning argument against the "use a table saw for everything!" mentality https://www.manmadediy.com/how-to-use-your-table-saw-as-a-planer  
Hubis fucked around with this message at 04:03 on Jan 12, 2020 |
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Jan 12, 2020 03:54
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Mr. Mambold posted:Serious question- though, why? We don't get cold enough to get thick ice here often so when we do I like to make "art" sculptures with it and then it melts and disappears, its great! No clean up required. If you want to see someone do it really well in my opinion look up the fella's ice art I mentioned in the post you quoted
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Jan 12, 2020 04:08
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