|
dis astranagant posted:Probably have the connectors upside down. I tried both ways but the problem was that I wasn't using enough force. They went on fine with some coercion.
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 08:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 08:13 |
|
|
After 10 years on a Q6600, I'm ready to build a new computer Country: USA Purpose: Gaming and hobbyist gamedev (think Unity, Unreal, Maya, etc) Monitors: Reusing 1080 @ 60hz + 1280*1024 @ 60hz, targeting "decent-to-good" image quality, and may get into VR in 6m-1y Games: SWBF2 (2017), Witcher 3, GTAV Budget: -CPU $200? could go up to 250 for something that will last longer -GPU plan on reusing my 760 for a few months then upgrading later -Mobo $150? -RAM ??? targeting 16g -Case reusing CoolerMaster 690 + some arctic fans, unless someone has a good reason i shouldnt -PSU: Planning on reusing my corsair HX620W and upgrading in a few months -Total, $500 ish? I do indeed live relatively close to a Microcenter and Frys, but I hear both may be closing(?) Thanks! Phraggah fucked around with this message at 09:42 on Jan 19, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 09:38
|
|
|
Phraggah posted:After 10 years on a Q6600, I'm ready to build a new computer With VR in mind, I think you should go down to Microcenter and pick up a Ryzen 3600 + ASRock Pro4 mobo + a 2x8 kit of 3200 MHz DDR4 RAM. Normally it'd be a bit of a concern recommending that mobo with 3000 series AMD processors, but the box will have a sticker on it saying if it came "Ryzen 3000 Ready" from the factory. Otherwise, we just normally tell people to look for the MSi B450 Pro-A MAX or Tomahawk MAX, as those models were released after the Ryzen 3000 launch specifically for compatibility. Since this comes out to about $310 before tax, I think you should really look into replacing that PSU sooner rather than later. It being a decade old and only 80+ White worries me, as it's the most destructive point-of-failure in a computer and modern power supplies are more efficient anyway. Microcenter charges a bit more than Amazon or Newegg for them and are obviously limited by shelf space in terms of what they stock, but you can still find 80+ Gold, fully modular PSUs with good warranties like the Corsair RMx, Seasonic Focus, and EVGA G+/G3 series. You can also normally get a manager to pricematch with places like Amazon. Your old build is probably ancient enough that it doesn't have an SSD in it unless you dropped one in a few years back too, so I'd pick up a 512 GB version of the Inland Premium NVMe drive to round out everything. It will easily be the biggest performance leap for your whole system if you don't already have one! In terms of closing, Fry's is all but buried in their grave at this point, but I don't think Microcenter is in danger's way. I heard the Bay Area location closed down, but it was because of a lovely landlord jacking rent up rather than where Fry's is at, with empty shelves and no people coming in.  (This screenshot doesn't show the -$20 you get from buying the CPU and mobo together) Demostrs fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Jan 19, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 10:14
|
|
|
Demostrs posted:Cool reccomendations Awesome recommendations. Has motherboard sizings changed in the last decade? Will it fit my OG coolermaster 690?
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 10:42
|
|
|
Phraggah posted:Awesome recommendations. Has motherboard sizings changed in the last decade? Will it fit my OG coolermaster 690? Nah, everything is still ATX/micro ATX/mini ITX. You may have to move some standoffs around for the specific size (the motherboard in that screenshot is just a mATX), but you could put basically whatever in.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 10:56
|
|
|
Klyith posted:That cooler is frequently called out ITT as a whole lot of heatsink for the price. Yeah, I'm basically trying to decide between that Scythe Mugen 5 and the ARCTIC Freezer 34 duo. The Mugen seems quieter but the Freezer 34 seems to perform better while also being way cheaper where I'm from (60 vs 40), so I guess I'll go with the latter.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 16:46
|
|
|
Has anyone heard anything about when Noctua is releasing the newly revised NH-D15 for the new Threadrippers? They announced it over a year ago and said it was supposed to be available at the end of 2019 but I have not seen anything to suggest its is available. https://www.anandtech.com/show/14578/noctua-shows-off-updated-140mm-cpu-coolers
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 18:00
|
|
|
Elman posted:Yeah, I'm basically trying to decide between that Scythe Mugen 5 and the ARCTIC Freezer 34 duo. The Mugen seems quieter but the Freezer 34 seems to perform better while also being way cheaper where I'm from (60 vs 40), so I guess I'll go with the latter. I can't imagine the arctic outperforming the mugen in a properly noise-normalized test, but it's not going to be some massive difference. The 34 is a fine cooler for your CPU. (Arctic's mounting system is a bit fiddly, so you will likely need to pull your mobo to install it. But it's way better than the hyper 212.) Huge_Midget posted:Has anyone heard anything about when Noctua is releasing the newly revised NH-D15 for the new Threadrippers? They announced it over a year ago and said it was supposed to be available at the end of 2019 but I have not seen anything to suggest it’s is available. Maybe the U14S-TR4 hasn't sold well enough that the even bigger D15 would be worth it? The people who are building threadripper stuff may be the types of enthusiasts who are getting AIO water coolers. Other possibility is that the D version didn't work out in practice. Those things are so huge, and with ram on both sides of the socket clearance is a problem. I could see something like the added length of heatpipe needed to clear the ram ended up not performing much better than the U. There's the Dark Rock Pro TR4 as well. Or just buy a thermalright silver arrow and put some 140mm noctua fans on it. The silver arrow looks mean as hell too.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 19:10
|
|
|
I just realized my computer is about 5 years old, with a 4790k. I've only ever built with intel processors as they were leagues better than amd at the time. But reading the OP, clearly amd got their poo poo together and Intel did not, so I took a look at some benchmarks. According to Anand tech, comparing the amd 3900x and the intel 9900k (both about 500 bucks) the amd clearly outperforms the intel in benchmarks, sometimes by a LOT. But then, the FPS benchmarks have the intel edging out the amd in most cases. What gives? Fwiw I care most about performance in gaming so I'm tempted to ignore the non-gaming results but the disparity is so large in some cases...
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 23:23
|
|
|
I put everything together and my power/reset buttons are not turning anything on. Only new things are cpu and mobo. How can I best narrow down the problem? It's not the PSU being nonfunctional, but I can't rule out cables loose or something yet. Doing that after this post, then what's next? Sorry for formatting/typos if any, on iPad.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 23:34
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:According to Anand tech, comparing the amd 3900x and the intel 9900k (both about 500 bucks) the amd clearly outperforms the intel in benchmarks, sometimes by a LOT. But then, the FPS benchmarks have the intel edging out the amd in most cases. What gives? Games still tend to have one primary thread that is the first thing that makes performance CPU-limited. This is slowly changing -- there are some games that now don't perform as well on Skylake 6600s because 4 core / 4 thread is limiting them. But the 9900K has plenty of cores & threads, and still has a tiny single-thread advantage over AMD. Meanwhile a 3900X doesn't have much gain over a 3600X for single-thread performance, it just has a shitload more cores. Games can't use all those cores, professional software can. However if like 95% of all games you're going to be GPU-limited anyways so it really doesn't matter what CPU you have as long as it's good enough to not choke the GPU. If you are building a gaming PC and have any real budget limitations, it's better to save $250 on the CPU and put that money to the GPU (unless you're also streaming, or playing unusual games). If you don't have much in the way of budget limits a 9900K is a better gaming CPU than a 3900X. Right now. Maybe Zen3 comes out later this year, fits into a X3-570, and beats a 9900.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 23:46
|
|
|
DACK FAYDEN posted:I put everything together and my power/reset buttons are not turning anything on. Only new things are cpu and mobo. How can I best narrow down the problem? It's not the PSU being nonfunctional, but I can't rule out cables loose or something yet. Doing that after this post, then what's next? Did you attach the power/reset button wires to the MB?
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 23:48
|
|
|
GunnerJ posted:Did you attach the power/reset button wires to the MB?
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 23:54
|
|
|
DACK FAYDEN posted:I put everything together and my power/reset buttons are not turning anything on. Only new things are cpu and mobo. How can I best narrow down the problem? It's not the PSU being nonfunctional, but I can't rule out cables loose or something yet. Doing that after this post, then what's next? Assemble things on a tabletoptop outside of the case, where you have plenty of room & light to see what you're doing. Consult your motherboard manual to identify the power switch prongs on the front panel connector. Use a screwdriver tip to touch those two metal prongs together. (That's all the power & reset buttons are, a button that makes an electrical connection between two leads.) It should turn on. If it doesn't, you may have a DOA mobo. Some fancier mobos have a power button on them so you don't have to gently caress around with the screwdriver.
|
|
#
?
Jan 19, 2020 23:54
|
|
|
Klyith posted:Some fancier mobos have a power button on them so you don't have to gently caress around with the screwdriver.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 00:31
|
|
|
Building a PC for my girlfriend since she wants to start doing 4k video editing, but her older laptop can't handle it. She doesn't care if processing/rendering is super fast, but just so editing software doesn't lag, which doesn't seem like it would with the current build (Davinci, which is more GPU dependent). We already have a case, but any suggestions/criticism? The only thing she may want to upgrade to is a 1TB SSD instead of the 500gb. PCPartPicker Part List CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Amazon) Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING X570-PLUS (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard ($189.99 @ Amazon) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($129.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Western Digital Blue 500 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($64.98 @ Amazon) Video Card: MSI GeForce RTX 2060 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card ($309.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: EVGA 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-modular ATX Power Supply ($81.98 @ Newegg) Total: $966.92 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-19 18:57 EST-0500
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 01:03
|
|
|
That SSD has an M.2 form factor but is using a SATA interface. Not sure whether that's something you were aware of but I figured I'd point out just in case you weren't and you'd rather have the faster NVMe interface. I'm not totally sure about this but my impression is that video editing benefits from more cores, so if you can find a deal on the Ryzen 7 it might be good.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 01:17
|
|
|
Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. In brief, how much can/should I expect games to take better advantage of multicores/threads in the next few years? i.e. is it a trend or still just crystal ball stuff? Also, any word on Intel's 10nm architecture (for desktop)? I think I read somewhere a little while ago that the had to scrap the whole thing because of how bad it was. Not a good sign if my memory serves me correctly.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 01:20
|
|
|
dms666 posted:Building a PC for my girlfriend since she wants to start doing 4k video editing, but her older laptop can't handle it. She doesn't care if processing/rendering is super fast, but just so editing software doesn't lag, which doesn't seem like it would with the current build (Davinci, which is more GPU dependent). We already have a case, but any suggestions/criticism? The only thing she may want to upgrade to is a 1TB SSD instead of the 500gb. I've never touched Davinci, but Pudget systems has benchmarks for it specifically, so I'd give these a look over and make sure you're in a performance band she's OK with. https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/articles/DaVinci-Resolve-GPU-Roundup-NVIDIA-SUPER-vs-AMD-RX-5700-XT-1563/ https://www.pugetsystems.com/labs/a...-X-series-1538/ If she's working with 4k video I assume its being stored elsewhere since 4k files are huge. You could get by with the cheaper motherboard if so inclined, and for another ~30 bucks you could get a PSU with a 10 year warranty (Corsair RMx, Seasonic Focus plus) vs the 5 year on the one you've selected.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 01:21
|
|
|
DACK FAYDEN posted:Yeah, I was hoping, but the Tomahawk B450 doesn't. I'll bust out the screwdriver! To ask the stupid question, have you checked that its plugged in / not turned off at the PSU switch?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 01:22
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. We won't really know until 2-3 years from now. I think the new consoles are coming out at the end of this year so the developers probably won't be taking full advantage until after that.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 01:31
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. Self-indulgent self-quote. This was specifically about 6c/12t vs 8c/16, but should be the same general points for core counts generically. Intels 10nm has been a cluster. IIRC they're saying they'll have a new architecture on shelves by year end, but the entire tech press is in 'we'll believe it when we see it' on both happening and performance. ItBreathes posted:Nobody knows. The For side points to the fact that the next consoles will use 8C/16T Zen2 CPU, and the fact that the 4C/4T i5s that had been so popular are starting to experience issues in some games (as is the current 6C/6T i5).
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 01:32
|
|
|
All in all, sounds like I should be investing in a new refrigerator over a new computer. ...except appliances all cost a bunch more due to the trade war. Maybe I'll just go to the strip club. Thanks, all 
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 03:41
|
|
|
totalnewbie posted:Thanks, that makes a lot of sense. Everything in the hardware world is saying that multicore is the way to go. Current consoles have 8 cores, next gen will probably have 8c/16t. AMD's chiplet design is a spectacular way to put a lot of cores together in a way that's not difficult to manufacture & doesn't result in a lot of wasted silicon from single flaws on mega-huge chips. More cores are easy, faster cores are now very difficult. The thing is, multithreaded programming is really hard. There are entire classes of bugs / errors that only happen when you're trying to split up tasks that are not naturally independent. Those non-games software benchmarks that you saw where Ryzens were thrashing Intel are generally: 1) jobs that are naturally suited to splitting up independent work 2) professional software that, frankly, has way better & bigger programming teams than the people working on video games* 3) both of the above So honestly, I don't expect a 9900K to get trounced by a 3900X in games across the board any time in the next few years. I think things will continue as they have been, with the more cores CPU slowly picking up a slightly larger fraction of games that favor them. Unless something miraculous happens like UE 5 having magic multi-threading that does everything for you. And even then you'll be GPU limited most of the time anyways. *a modern game doesn't have all that many more people credited as "programmer" than something like Quake did. They have many many times the number of artists, modelers, writers, designers, voice and mocap actors, et cetera.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 04:29
|
|
|
ItBreathes posted:To ask the stupid question, have you checked that its plugged in / not turned off at the PSU switch?
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 15:29
|
|
|
just for posterity and possible laughs in the future: I just went ahead and ordered a 9900ks, Aorus Master, a 4x8GB 3200 CL14 b-die kit and the black variant of the DH15. My excuse: now I just have to unplugg my 2080ti and can just drop my current system as is into an old case. The 2700x with 32gb RAM and a 1070 should do alright as a home pasture for my wifes algorithms. How much will I regret this purchase in a year? Only time will tell. Feel free to place your bets.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 15:49
|
|
|
the panacea posted:just for posterity and possible laughs in the future: It should be noted that the 2700x doesn't have an iGPU so it'll still need some sort of video card to be able to display anything and from what I've read it won't even post without one. edit: derp, missed the bit about the 1070
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 16:15
|
|
|
I'd like to double check that this mobo should work with the below part list (my mobo died and I'm trying to replace it in Korea). Here's a google translate of the mobo specs: quote:Intel (Socket 1151) / (Intel) H110 / Mini-iTX (17.0 x 17.0cm) / Power: 3 Phase / DDR4 / Memory Capacity: Up to 32GB / XMP / Graphics Output: HDMI, DP / M.2: 1 / SATA3: 2 / PS / 2: 1 combo / USB 3.1 Gen 1: 4 rear / Gigabit LAN / UEFI Original Build CPU: Intel Core i5-7600K 3.8GHz Quad-Core Processor CPU Cooler: CRYORIG C7 40.5 CFM CPU Cooler Motherboard: ASRock Z270M-ITX/ac Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB SC GAMING ACX 2.0 Video Card Case: Fractal Design Node 202 HTPC Case Power Supply: Corsair SF 450W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply TIA!
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 21:07
|
|
|
awesomeolion posted:I'd like to double check that this mobo should work with the below part list (my mobo died and I'm trying to replace it in Korea). From a quick glance I would say yes but I would point out that the new board would not support overclocking so it's not a great pairing with a K series CPU. Also you would need to make sure the board has had its BIOS updated to support Kaby Lake.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 21:29
|
|
|
H110 also doesn't support overclocking RAM, so you could only run your own kit at 2133 MHz, for reference. E: Looking at that motherboard, it is designed to use SODIMM (laptop) memory, so it wouldn't work. No PCIe slots either.... E2: you might be kinda screwed lol, I can't find anything that's both mITX with a Sunrise or Union Point chipset on Danawa, Compuzone, or PCLife. Part of that may be because I'm using Google Translate to search those sites, but you may have to buy something from Newegg's global store if there aren't any other shops I'm missing or if I'm just bad at looking. https://www.newegg.com/global/kr-en/p/N82E16813132717 https://www.newegg.com/global/kr-en/p/N82E16813132641 (overclocking capable but might be in the same boat where BIOS isn't updated for Kaby Lake, also probably grossly expensive and better off buying a motherboard and CPU like a Ryzen 2600 and B450 board than getting this) Demostrs fucked around with this message at 22:28 on Jan 20, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 21:32
|
|
|
Just to be clear, this ATX 12V CPU power cable:  Is supposed to go in this ATX 12V CPU power socket:  Despite the different shapes, right? I plugged the left side since the shapes fit properly and I knew you only really needed that half, but I thought I'd need a new cable or an adapter to do it the proper way. I didn't realize the rounded shapes are supposed to be able to fit into the square sockets.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 22:13
|
|
|
Demostrs posted:H110 also doesn't support overclocking RAM, so you could only run your own kit at 2133 MHz, for reference. Thanks a lot! Overclocking is not something I have ever done or ever plan on doing so that first one (https://www.newegg.com/global/kr-en/p/N82E16813132717) looks perfect. If you think it's going to be compatible then I'll blindly trust you and order it
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 22:29
|
|
|
awesomeolion posted:Thanks a lot! Overclocking is not something I have ever done or ever plan on doing so that first one (https://www.newegg.com/global/kr-en/p/N82E16813132717) looks perfect. If you think it's going to be compatible then I'll blindly trust you and order it I have no way of knowing if this is actually true, but I'd speculate that even though H110 were the budget of the budget boards for that socket, they're probably more likely to have been shipped with newer BIOSes since there's no equivalent 2XX version of them like there is for Z170 boards. If it isn't working out of the gate, you may have to go to a computer shop and ask if they can update the BIOS for you so that it can get up and running. If that still doesn't fix it, well, something else is borked in your computer then 
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 22:39
|
|
|
awesomeolion posted:I'd like to double check that this mobo should work with the below part list (my mobo died and I'm trying to replace it in Korea). Dunno what the used market is like in Korea, but in the US old intel motherboards are very available on ebay for very reasonable prices. Basically the opposite of the situation with CPUs. So check whatever the ebay equivalent is over there? Elman posted:Just to be clear, this ATX 12V CPU power cable: I'm not sure why they did it that way, but the ATX12v (4 pin) & EPS12v (8 pin) both supply +12v on every pin across the top and ground on every pin on the bottom. So even if you plugged in the "wrong" side, as long as you didn't plug it in upside down it'd be ok.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 22:40
|
|
|
What I meant is I didn't know that I could just plug in the whole thing instead of just the half with matching shapes. I actually thought the rounded shapes would prevent it from fitting.
|
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 22:52
|
|
|
Klyith posted:Dunno what the used market is like in Korea, but in the US old intel motherboards are very available on ebay for very reasonable prices. Basically the opposite of the situation with CPUs. So check whatever the ebay equivalent is over there? This video may not apply well to you depending on where you are in South Korea, but Tech Yes City has a video about searching the Yongsan district of Seoul for used parts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BDLhc1lK2-s Would save you a bit on customs fees versus getting something imported from Newegg/Amazon/Alibaba (though they probably would underwrite the value of it) to get something in person or from an Ebay/Craigslist equivalent. Hope this ends up being headache free as possible for you! E: I looked back at Danawa because it was namedropped in the video along with https://cafe.naver.com/joonggonara, and a motherboard popped up that didn't on my initial filter for mITX boards: http://prod.danawa.com/info/?pcode=3513104&cate=112751 Still expensive, but not as much as that one Z170 from Newegg. Figured I had to be missing something because of translation issues! Demostrs fucked around with this message at 23:32 on Jan 20, 2020 |
|
#
?
Jan 20, 2020 23:01
|
|
|
fuf posted:Do I care about 3200 vs 3600 ram for my new Ryzen 3600? Noticeable difference? Don't mind spending a bit more if it's more future proof. pcpartspicker just says 3200. From what I've heard the rule of thumb is: -3200mhz ram you overclock as close to 3600mhz as you can get. It is a viable option provided you are ready to spend a couple hours doing ram overclock tweaking. -3600mhz is what you get for the best value out-of-box performance with no tweaking. If you just want it to work awesome straight out of the box and don't want to bother with loving around with ram OCs, get this. You can also often find 3600mhz ram on sale for close to 3200mhz price.
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 04:11
|
|
|
Stupid question: I have a Tomahawk Max and a 3600X with 16gb of ram (2x8gb). I am thinking about buying another pair just to fill it up and max it out at 32gb now while the ram is still being made. In the past this would be be a big deal but the sticks are RGB and I presume they will change the way it looks at some point. Besides wasting money since I may never need that much ram, are there any other downfalls? Will 4 sticks run slower than 2 for whatever reason?
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 04:26
|
|
|
If I want to build a computer for non-bleeding-edge-but-still-decent gaming, and I think that smaller things are generally less of a pain, can I switch to uATX without worrying about anything more than maybe a slight price premium? E.g. can I take the "Budget 1080p gaming at 60 FPS" build from this post linked from the OP, switch the motherboard, case, and power supply to uATX, and have it Just Work? Are there geometry gotchas that PCPartPicker won't catch for me?
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 04:36
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 30, 2024 08:13 |
|
|
E: double post
|
|
#
?
Jan 21, 2020 04:45
|
|