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Shooting Blanks posted:Dumb question: How do I get a core charge back for a part when I didn't pay one in the first place? Replaced my starter with one from Rock Auto, and the non-core one was on a ridiculous discount and cheaper even when you included the core charge. Can't send it to them, Autozone needs a phone number to look it up, I'm assuming O'Reilly's does something similar. Any other ideas? You weren't charged for a core so........ I'm not aware of any chain place that will just give you whatever their core charge is for whatever random core you have laying around. If you find one let me know because all of a sudden "by weight" poo poo going to the scrap yard just got more profitable.
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Feb 6, 2020 01:03
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This isn't like collecting bottles for recycling. You don't get a core charge back if you didn't pay it in the first place.
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Feb 6, 2020 01:06
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MRC48B posted:This isn't like collecting bottles for recycling. You don't get a core charge back if you didn't pay it in the first place. Are batteries an exception? The guy at Advance told me I was dumb for dropping my dead one off at Walmart because his store would’ve given me $10 for it, purchase or not.
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Feb 6, 2020 01:21
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Motronic posted:I don't know much about automatics, but is that a torque converter lock up issue perhaps? Looks like it's loading up with the brakes on and then "breaking loose". Not sure why that torque converter would even get locked up in that situation so maybe it is part of your demon transmission. The Skyactiv transmissions lock up over a really wide range. I don't have any experience with them though. Also does it need new mounts or is that much movement normal? https://www.mazda.com/en/innovation/technology/skyactiv/skyactiv-drive/
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Feb 6, 2020 01:42
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Motronic posted:I don't know much about automatics, but is that a torque converter lock up issue perhaps? Looks like it's loading up with the brakes on and then "breaking loose". Not sure why that torque converter would even get locked up in that situation so maybe it is part of your demon transmission. That's an AWD car. Maybe one of the diffs is binding up? Mazda also tends to use incredibly soft motor mounts, so that amount of engine movement isn't unheard of. The RPM thing is really strange though - it should drop to idle as you come to a stop.
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Feb 6, 2020 01:49
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eddiewalker posted:Are batteries an exception? The guy at Advance told me I was dumb for dropping my dead one off at Walmart because his store would’ve given me $10 for it, purchase or not. Sorry, yes. Because they actually make money on lead acid battery recycling. The lead never gets "used" so it gets melted down and cast into new batteries.
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Feb 6, 2020 01:52
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STR posted:That's an AWD car. Maybe one of the diffs is binding up? iirc Mazda has electronically-activated clutch packs that only kick in 4wd when the ECU decides it needs it.
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Feb 6, 2020 01:59
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Krakkles posted:What opengl128 said, or this: Thanks, I saw those after posting but couldn’t find one in the right size. That one is just right. I guess I forgot about those even though my dad used to wrap everything with the rubber version of them.
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Feb 6, 2020 03:38
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Can an exhaust leak make these sort of demon-noises? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pjmXG40-yzU I suspect an exhaust leak because it started after replacing the catback, noise seems to be coming from the header area so maybe I wailed on the old exhaust a little too hard getting it out. Then again, my alternator also went out immediately after replacing the catback so cause and effect has not been my friend. I also serviced the driveshaft (giubo and center bearing). Car's an e36 with the m44 engine. I can't replicate it while the car's not moving so it's kind of got me stumped.
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Feb 6, 2020 04:08
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nitsuga posted:
Hey Fit friend! When my '11 started getting lovely I wrapped the damaged portion with blue painter's tape which actually seems to be holding up very well. However I'm weird and your best bet is a cover.
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Feb 6, 2020 05:51
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Motronic posted:You weren't charged for a core so........ drat, figured as much. Is a scrap yard the best way to dispose of it then? I'd prefer to recycle the thing in general, even if I don't get anything back, than just throw it away.
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Feb 6, 2020 10:29
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Shooting Blanks posted:drat, figured as much. Is a scrap yard the best way to dispose of it then? I'd prefer to recycle the thing in general, even if I don't get anything back, than just throw it away. A lot of auto parts stores will take car parts for recycling, I'd just call and ask them first to be sure.
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Feb 6, 2020 10:41
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Heck around here you set out anything at the curb that resembles metal it will be gone in hours.
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Feb 6, 2020 12:33
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C-Bangin' it 
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Colostomy Bag posted:Heck around here you set out anything at the curb that resembles metal it will be gone in hours. Accurate.
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Feb 6, 2020 12:38
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My neighbor put out the shittiest, most neglected bicycles I’ve ever seen out on the curb. I went over and looked at them because I have a ton of bikes and whats 3 more? We’re talking Huffy level bikes covered in rust, completely dry rotted tires and tubes, chains that are so rusted together with the other parts I don’t think you could even remove them. It starts pouring rain and someone is still there in about 10 minutes to snag them.
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Feb 6, 2020 12:49
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I used to have a few business cards for local scrappers but I'll be damned if I know where they went.
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Feb 6, 2020 14:55
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KodiakRS posted:I have a 2016 Mazda CX-5 with about 11,500 miles on it. Since day 1 of ownership transmission has always been a bit jerky and the car would lurch awkwardly upon stopping with the engine not dropping to idle RPM until about 5 seconds after coming to a full stop. A lot of reviews of the car had complained about a harsh transmission so I thought nothing of it. The car previously had brake issues requiring new pads all around and new rotors on the rear at less than 10k miles. So when it started making random groans while stopping I figured the idiots at the dealer had somehow hosed up installing the new pads. I took it to a brake service place who couldn't find any problems with the brakes but noticed that the transmission and axles would bounce/stutter as the brakes were applied. There might be a transmission/engine programming update available. But also Mazda uses very soft engine/trans mounts as previously stated. I drove my sister's CX-5 a fair bit from a similar year range, but hers wasn't AWD. I didn't experience any strange behavior and was impressed with how good the auto was.
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Feb 6, 2020 16:28
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poo poo, people steal landscaping boulders in this town. We had to move some to have the main line dug up and we left them just sitting on the grass and two days later I came home from work and they were gone.
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Feb 6, 2020 17:23
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A coworker tells a story of his riding mower running out of gas, his wife leaving it in the front yard while she walked to the garage for the gas can, and her coming back to someone trying to put it in their truck thinking it was left for trash. I somehow had a couch sit on the curb for a few days until the garbage truck took it away.
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Feb 6, 2020 17:36
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Rhyno posted:poo poo, people steal landscaping boulders in this town. We had to move some to have the main line dug up and we left them just sitting on the grass and two days later I came home from work and they were gone. What the hell? Did the crew think they were fill and removed them?
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Feb 6, 2020 22:29
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Does anyone have any tips for dealing with driving a vehicle where the seats aren't designed with short people in mind? I finally got our Suburban road worthy again and have completely forgotten how I can just barely reach the pedals/wheel safely, a couple more inches forward would be a lot more comfortable. The seat is a custom captains chair and sits on a standard 8"x11" base that is welded to the truck, I believe they cut out or at least covered up the original seat mounts when the seats were installed back in 1990.
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Feb 7, 2020 01:00
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kid sinister posted:What the hell? Did the crew think they were fill and removed them? The crew had to move them because the leak was 5 feet directly below. We need to have the front yard graded and filled so we just had them sitting there next to their previous location until we could work on that. And then they vanished.
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Feb 7, 2020 06:29
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Blindeye posted:Hey fellas! So I did a thing I *might* regret and spent a few hundred dollars buying a 1997 Ford Ranger 2wd with the 4 cylinder and manual transmission. Overall it's not bad, with no rust, no engine codes, and the AC/Heater both work great. Everything engine-wise is okay, but I'd like to fix one thing bugging the hell out of me: Update: I pulled off the dash panel and all three 12v plugs were secured, but lol at this loving wiring job for the radio:  Note the frayed yellow wire, and the two speaker wires terminated with butt connections instead of being connected. Or the ground that is left exposed and hooked up to nothing. Maybe progress? New radio install/wiring checks this weekend, wish me luck.
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Feb 7, 2020 06:45
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Those exposed connections are an issue, but those aren't speaker wires that are left disconnected. One is the constant power wire (yellow), one is the remote amp turn on (blue/white), one is the power antenna wire (blue). The orange is one I don't know off the top of my head. The stereo is probably grounding through the antenna right now. Xy Hapu posted:Can an exhaust leak make these sort of demon-noises? Yes, I'd expect that kind of noise to be at a junction of some kind and not where the header connects to the engine.
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Feb 7, 2020 16:25
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STR posted:Those exposed connections are an issue, but those aren't speaker wires that are left disconnected. One is the constant power wire (yellow), one is the remote amp turn on (blue/white), one is the power antenna wire (blue). The orange lines with crimped connections but not connected to each other are part of the speaker wires. Most of the connections were pretty loose as well so we'll see.
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Feb 7, 2020 18:29
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Update on the cx-5 with the bouncy transmission. Apparently that much movement is normal, and the weird axle juddering was traction control freaking out because the car was on jacks. The lovely transmission issues experienced while driving are due to the transmission being lovely.
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Feb 7, 2020 21:07
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2014 Civic LX About a week ago my key fob started having issues locking/unlocking my doors. I thought the key's battery was dying, so I ordered a replacement battery. FYI, it is not a key-less/remote start. I have a physical key attached to the remote. The next day, before I even replaced the key battery, my car would not start. It will crank, and the dash lights and radio come on, but the engine will not start. Just to make sure it was not the car battery, I tried to do a jump start, but that didn't solve the issue. That didn't surprise me, since I replaced the car battery only a few months ago. I decided to replace the key fob battery, but that didn't work either. Someone I know told me they had the same issue and needed their car key reprogrammed, so I called a local locksmith. The locksmith I talked to seemed confused why a fob issue would prevent the actual key from starting the car, but he told me to try putting the key in the ignition and turning it in the on position. If I saw a green key symbol flash or remain on, then it meant the car didn't recognize the key and needed to be reprogrammed. I tried it, and the symbol flashed for half a second then remained off. He told me it was probably an issue with the car itself rather than the key fob. But something strange is every time I approach my car with the key, the red light on the fob will turn on, and the door will unlock itself. It never used to do that. Also, despite replacing the battery, the "lock" button still does not do anything. Neither does the "open trunk" button. I can actually use the fob to unlock the doors (after locking them with the switch inside the car), but it takes a while for it to respond. Actually I'm not sure if I'm doing it or the key just does it by itself. I also found an old spare key the dealership gave me. That one does not seem to work at all, and the red light on the fob does not turn on. I suspect the battery may be dead, but I tried the little trick the locksmith told me about, and, according to what the locksmith told me, the car seems to "recognize" the key (green light did not remain on). I'm contemplating just calling another locksmith and having them reprogram the key anyway, just to see if that is the issue. But I just want some thoughts first before I spend the money. Even if I have the physical key, could a fob issue prevent the car from starting? And if it is not the key fob, what inside the car could cause it not to start while also screwing up the fob?
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Feb 7, 2020 21:22
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Does anyone have suggestions for a front bumper camera setup for a 2019 Honda Civic? I'm poo poo at gauging where the front bumper is when parking, so I'd like to have a better way of telling.
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Feb 7, 2020 21:31
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Sk8ers4Christ posted:2014 Civic LX The fact that the light is solid on the fob makes it sound like the button is stuck internally and screwing with the car. If you take the battery out of that fob does the key start the car?
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Feb 7, 2020 21:34
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.Z. posted:Does anyone have suggestions for a front bumper camera setup for a 2019 Honda Civic? I'm poo poo at gauging where the front bumper is when parking, so I'd like to have a better way of telling. But, more directly, if you have a front plate, any of the aftermarket cameras should easily mount. Here's the one I have on the back of my car, there are smaller ones, though:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074KZSVD6/ Edit: Maybe something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XB5Y6D4/ - it's small, should be pretty easy to mount unobtrusively, and since it has IR lights instead of bright rear end LEDs, it'll be more subtle when you're parking. There's also a visible LED version if you don't care. Krakkles fucked around with this message at 21:47 on Feb 7, 2020 |
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Feb 7, 2020 21:42
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opengl128 posted:The fact that the light is solid on the fob makes it sound like the button is stuck internally and screwing with the car. If you take the battery out of that fob does the key start the car? Just tried that. Car still didn't start. Thank you though!
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Feb 7, 2020 21:56
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Why don't modern trucks come with mudflaps? Seems like old ones used.to, but maybe those were all aftermarket. The roads are all wet and slushy today so I feel particularly aware.
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Feb 7, 2020 22:02
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taqueso posted:Why don't modern trucks come with mudflaps? Seems like old ones used.to, but maybe those were all aftermarket. lol, trucks around here have led lights in them. Just saw one today.
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Feb 7, 2020 22:39
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If my car says it needs maintenance on something every year or 10,000 miles, but I've only driven 5,000 miles for the year, can I "delay" the maintenance until I reach the 10,000 mile mark since my car gets light use?
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Feb 7, 2020 22:51
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punk rebel ecks posted:If my car says it needs maintenance on something every year or 10,000 miles, but I've only driven 5,000 miles for the year, can I "delay" the maintenance until I reach the 10,000 mile mark since my car gets light use? To some degree, yes. There are things that just wear over time that you should check. I also don't drive a ton, and I make sure to check my tire pressure, fluid levels (especially coolant and oil), brakes, and belts for wear. Rubber and plastic can get more brittle over time no matter how much it's used. I just got a new battery due to mine slowly dying over the last year or so but it was almost seven years old and finally died when I had the flu and didn't drive it for two weeks.
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Feb 8, 2020 00:30
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Rexxed posted:To some degree, yes. There are things that just wear over time that you should check. I also don't drive a ton, and I make sure to check my tire pressure, fluid levels (especially coolant and oil), brakes, and belts for wear. Rubber and plastic can get more brittle over time no matter how much it's used. I just got a new battery due to mine slowly dying over the last year or so but it was almost seven years old and finally died when I had the flu and didn't drive it for two weeks. I see. I wait to change my oil every 10k (I have a 2013 Prius). During the oil change I always get a car inspection. I hope that's enough.
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Feb 8, 2020 00:56
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When I get into my mom's 2018 CR-V, the infotainment screen is at full brightness and I gotta press the sun/moon icon to put it in the dimmer night setting. Does this car not automatically turn down the screen brightness when the auto headlights come on? I couldn't find a setting.
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Feb 8, 2020 01:48
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nitsuga posted:
My '13 CR-V did pretty much this and I ended up replacing the wheel. I hate cheap slip on covers, and expensive covers aren't worth it when you've lost that much of the diameter of the wheel itself. I upgraded to the leather-wrapped wheel out of the EX trim. It's not difficult work if you are remotely mechanically inclined, just take your time. You will probably need a steering wheel puller to break the wheel loose after you remove the center bolt. Doesn't need a lot of force but it's way easier to apply force the right direction with a steering wheel puller. Uthor posted:When I get into my mom's 2018 CR-V, the infotainment screen is at full brightness and I gotta press the sun/moon icon to put it in the dimmer night setting. Does this car not automatically turn down the screen brightness when the auto headlights come on? I couldn't find a setting. If it's like my '13, twist the button you would use to reset the odometer, while the headlights are on.
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Feb 8, 2020 02:31
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IOwnCalculus posted:If it's like my '13, twist the button you would use to reset the odometer, while the headlights are on. I believe that dims all the lights (infotainment and instrument cluster) and that they stay dimmed in the daytime, but I will play with it tomorrow. I had set it to max last time I was home. I did this because someone had dimmed the lights in the car so low that I couldn't see anything one sunny day despite amping up the brightness on the screen. I blame my nieces playing around while bored.
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Feb 8, 2020 02:35
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That's why I mention the headlight status - mine keeps one setting with lights on and one with lights off.
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Feb 8, 2020 03:19
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