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w00tmonger posted:Getting close to putting down tile for this bathroom. Anyone have recommendations on tile underlay? It's just plywood at the moment, and I know I can just do mortar, but I'm seeing all this Schluter leveling plastic that looks pretty good Yes, Ditra is awesome. It's expensive, but it works really well.
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Feb 3, 2020 18:22
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Motronic posted:Yes, Ditra is awesome. It's expensive, but it works really well. Ditra sucks because they make you use unmodified mortars, although now that they are getting into the mortar game they might be walking that back. If your plywood is properly put down, you can use Custom Redgard, which is pretty much painting a latex sheet over the whole floor. You'll need to do something other than just redgard for the shower though. You can stay with Custom for that too if you want, they have pre-fab shower pans that are pretty much styrefoam, or you can use sand and cement to create a mud bed, but that's not the easiest thing to do. Then just use thinset/medium bed mortar (depending on your tile size) over top of that. AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Feb 3, 2020 |
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Feb 3, 2020 19:02
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AFewBricksShy posted:Ditra sucks because they make you use unmodified mortars Over concrete. You use regular thinset over ply/OSB.
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Feb 3, 2020 19:12
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Motronic posted:Over concrete. You use regular thinset over ply/OSB. Still needs unmodified between the waffle and the tile though. That, on top of the added cost and added labor, means unless it's specifically called out in the spec we're going to go a different route.
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Feb 3, 2020 19:17
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AFewBricksShy posted:Still needs unmodified between the waffle and the tile though. Do it how you like, but there's a reason for it, and the added labor is unfortunately a thing that is required to get something that effectively decouples tile. If it's not your house and you're trying to win bids I understand why you would do it a different way.
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Feb 3, 2020 19:41
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Hmmm, well at this point I'm just trying to find my best cost/effort point. Haven't really layed down a tile floor in ages. Bathrooms 8*8 ish which sucks for the ditra dimensions I can buy. Not totally sure what to go with, just want to do the job properly and not leave too much room to create problems for myself with leveling
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Feb 3, 2020 19:45
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w00tmonger posted:Hmmm, well at this point I'm just trying to find my best cost/effort point. Haven't really layed down a tile floor in ages. Bathrooms 8*8 ish which sucks for the ditra dimensions I can buy. You can do the job properly without Ditra and if your floor is stable you shouldn't really have any near term problems with tile/grout cracking. Ditra is essentially extra protection/lifespan. If it doesn't work out for you/too much effort there's nothing wrong with choosing a different but accepted way/set of products.
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Feb 3, 2020 19:51
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Awesome. Any reason to gently caress around with the self levelling underlay? I imagine whatever I go with I'll want some sort of waterproofing (liquid redguard?)
w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 21:56 on Feb 3, 2020 |
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Feb 3, 2020 21:26
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w00tmonger posted:Awesome. Any reason to gently caress around with the self levelling underlay? I imagine whatever I go with I'll want some sort of waterproofing (liquid redguard?) AFewBricksShy fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Feb 3, 2020 |
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Feb 3, 2020 22:12
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AFewBricksShy posted:Only if you need it. And yes unless you’re slab on grade you’re going to want to waterproof at least the shower. If you are slab on grade I’d still end up waterproofing the shower. Shower is waterproofed as gently caress (kerdiboard). It looks like I'm going to do backerboard for the floor (then paint on a waterproofing?) then the tile
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Feb 3, 2020 22:58
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Waterproofing bathrooms and also the mud room are required by code here. Our previous neighbor had mold damage in his house because he previous owners had done the bathroom renovation themselves and not to code with the waterproof layers. They ended up having to pay for the repair and re-doing of the bathroom by a professional. Still that kinda thing doesn't happen often here, sellers usually get away with doing stuff like that.
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Feb 4, 2020 09:36
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His Divine Shadow posted:Waterproofing bathrooms and also the mud room are required by code here. Good point. If code calls for it, make sure you do it.
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Feb 4, 2020 16:27
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$18k for new Pella windows for the entire house. cash+large project discounts so we basically got one window for free there. Install is mid-March, so hopefully there’s some good weather! 
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Feb 5, 2020 15:49
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How many windows?
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Feb 5, 2020 16:03
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First floor has a small casement, triple sash, and double sash. Switching the triple sash in the living room to a large center picture window with two casements on the side. upstairs we’re replacing 5 windows all told, two are double sash. This also includes the large picture window above the door in the entry way. Goodbye original 1996-era windows, you drafty pieces of poo poo!
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Feb 5, 2020 16:14
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That's one of the projects I have to do on my house someday. Only all my windows are 1978 vintage. Not looking forward to it.
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Feb 5, 2020 16:52
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That seems spendy. I need to replace windows at my new to me 80s house as all of the seals are gone and windows are generally foggy. They're all casement windows, which I understand aren't cheap. Wondering how terrible it would look of they all got replaced by normal sash windows, has anyone done this and not regretted?
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Feb 5, 2020 20:20
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falz posted:That seems spendy. I need to replace windows at my new to me 80s house as all of the seals are gone and windows are generally foggy. For Pella or Anderson--you're going to pay. Especially, if the quote includes installation through the window manufacturer. You're not going to regret having either brand. You can easily replace the old casements with single or double hung windows. Personally, I have strong dislike for casement windows. For a while I thought they were going away, then the whole egress thing became a code issue and now there is one in every bedroom. 
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Feb 5, 2020 20:51
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falz posted:That seems spendy. I need to replace windows at my new to me 80s house as all of the seals are gone and windows are generally foggy. If it's really just fogged glass due to blown seals but your frames are good, you could look into having a glass company replace your glass at far lower cost than whole window replacements will run. I had that done - the company custom built and installed sealed double pane units to the exact sizes of the old ones. It's been great and my whole house (eight windows plus an entire glassed-in sunroom) cost about $5K US. If you are handy and careful about measuring, you can even order and install the units yourself.
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Feb 5, 2020 21:19
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loving LOL, I have 25 windows. On the first floor. (Edit: for clarification, this is with regard to how hosed I am if I ever want to replace windows, not some weird number-of-windows arms race. Luckily most of our windows are in good shape.) tetrapyloctomy fucked around with this message at 21:38 on Feb 5, 2020 |
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Feb 5, 2020 21:36
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I grew up in a house with mostly casement windows and now own a house with double hung sash windows and I much prefer the sash windows. They are not further exposed to the elements while open and if you don’t have an exterior screen fitted, you can pop in those handy $5 screens from Home Depot when the window is open. I also like the fact that you can pull down the top sash and get some good ventilation going, and general ease of use (especially true of the old style counterweighted sashes - enables you to raise a 30lb sash with your pinky finger).HycoCam posted:You can easily replace the old casements with single or double hung windows. Personally, I have strong dislike for casement windows. For a while I thought they were going away, then the whole egress thing became a code issue and now there is one in every bedroom. Oh no But double hung windows are easy to escape from... was the problem that they weren’t big enough or too high from the ground? I think my perception is clouded by having enormous double hung windows in the bedrooms (some are almost 6’ tall) that all have super low sills.
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Feb 5, 2020 21:48
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HycoCam posted:For Pella or Anderson--you're going to pay. Especially, if the quote includes installation through the window manufacturer. You're not going to regret having either brand. What's a decent price to pay for pella/anderson replacement, figuring on a standard window size?
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Feb 5, 2020 22:36
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TofuDiva posted:If it's really just fogged glass due to blown seals but your frames are good, you could look into having a glass company replace your glass at far lower cost than whole window replacements will run. I had that done - the company custom built and installed sealed double pane units to the exact sizes of the old ones. It's been great and my whole house (eight windows plus an entire glassed-in sunroom) cost about $5K US. Sweet! Ill search for someone local. My opinion is the wood and everything is fine, maybe just needs to be re-stained in a few spots. I have a similar number of windows + a few patio doors where the wood is bad, if I could keep this under $10k I'd be thrilled. Did you work with a local place or are there any national places that do this, like pella etc? Edit: also I intended to look to see if this is something local Amish dudes can do but I have no idea how to get in touch with a community or whatever.
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Feb 5, 2020 23:42
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falz posted:Edit: also I intended to look to see if this is something local Amish dudes can do but I have no idea how to get in touch with a community or whatever. Don't know if you're a PA goon, but https://www.lancasterfarming.com/ is where you're going to find the local amish business advertising.
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Feb 5, 2020 23:54
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falz posted:Sweet! Ill search for someone local. My opinion is the wood and everything is fine, maybe just needs to be re-stained in a few spots. I worked with one of the larger but local glass shops. The window companies wanted to replace them frame and all, but the glass companies understood what I wanted and worked with me really well. Good luck! It's worth looking into, for sure.
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Feb 6, 2020 00:28
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Motronic posted:Don't know if you're a PA goon, but https://www.lancasterfarming.com/ is where you're going to find the local amish business advertising. Nah I should've specified im not there. WI and they're out and about in smaller farms all around. I know of an bakery, maybe they'll know.
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Feb 6, 2020 00:41
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devmd01 posted:$18k for new Pella windows for the entire house. cash+large project discounts so we basically got one window for free there. Install is mid-March, so hopefully there’s some good weather! Seems about right. a tiny upcharge for installer doing the work for you, but not bad. The price is there because of casements + lots of special types of windows. For the other person below - Here's Anderson for material cost only, MSRP. You'll have to do a separate estimate for labor. https://imgur.com/a/MBL8NxM If you are good, you can get a 25% discount off of MSRP. Note that 100 series are way cheaper and Vinyl Fiberglass, and 400 series are the traditional hella expensive Anderson. Also standard sliding windows are way cheaper.
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Feb 6, 2020 01:53
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w00tmonger posted:Getting close to putting down tile for this bathroom. Anyone have recommendations on tile underlay? It's just plywood at the moment, and I know I can just do mortar, but I'm seeing all this Schluter leveling plastic that looks pretty good I did hardibacker and that was pretty good, schluter is probably a lot easier to work with though.
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Feb 6, 2020 02:33
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Queen Victorian posted:Oh no As for egress, its been a requirement with new homes for a while in our area (and pretty sure the rest of the USA too). The basic requirement is an unimpeded 5.7 square foot opening is needed for any sleeping area/bedroom. The idea being either you can escape or a firefighter with gear can enter through the window. Large double hung windows can meet the 5.7 requirement, especially if the sash is off center. But if you don't have huge windows and you want the window to open -- casements do the trick. Heck, they even come with fake sashes to match the other windows now too. Tempered glass not required. HycoCam fucked around with this message at 04:48 on Feb 6, 2020 |
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Feb 6, 2020 04:38
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Tile talk... So I'm looking at a home it has 9x9 asbestos tile on one room of the basement floor I'd like the room to be usable for the kids. My GF is feeekin out and wants I covered I'm less concerned as the tile is in good shape and not peeling up or cracked etc. My thoughts 1. Expoxy floor one guy quoted me $6/sq ft due to it being pretty small area. This would still leave a pretty cold floor 2. Product like alure floating vinyl tile. For option 2 I can't remember if it's I'll advised to put over an underlayment so that the floor has a barrier, as well as maybe not have the floors be a cold concrete/epoxy floor. I think allure with underlayment is probably going to be somewhere around ,$5/sq ft. Thoughts?
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Feb 6, 2020 15:52
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tater_salad posted:Tile talk... Epoxy is going to thermally insulate, so it won't be as cold as cold concrete. It'll essentially seal that asbestos away for the structural life of the house, as well.
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Feb 6, 2020 18:47
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Gocha..then +1 for epoxy. I wasn't sure if it'd be cold like concrete or not. Waiting on them to respond on our other inspection items. Back from them. We want the asbestos tape that's on the furnace exhaust removed and a few other spots removed / encapsulated, because plan is to remove the inefficient oil>natural gas furnace replaced before we get in there.
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Feb 6, 2020 19:22
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Encapsulation with epoxy is the way to go for the floor. With the asbestos tape, that should fall under a "small area" rule (less than 3x3x3 feet) so it should be cheaper than needing the whole house sealed off, outdoor shower thing, negative pressure to the entire building etc etc. You still want the room sealed, but it wouldn't need the same amount of gear so it should be cheaper. Do not let the current owners try to fix it themselves, they for-sure do not have the right gear to remove the tape correctly.
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Feb 6, 2020 19:35
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Yeah they are small areas that don't require the whole house and all that jazz. We're asking do it to be properly abated with an actual company or sellers consessions. Quotes are 1500 and 3000 the 3000 company seems like a money grab and wants $500 just to look. The 1500 company said they'd not even try to remove the tape they would just remove the entire section which I'm good with since. A new furnace / ac is happening.
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Feb 6, 2020 19:43
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tater_salad posted:I wasn't sure if it'd be cold like concrete or not. The tricky thing about our sense of temperature is that we don't actually sense the temperature, we sense a proxy for it, namely the rate at which we lose heat. So you can have a piece of copper and a piece of wood at the same actual temperature, and the copper will feel colder because it wicks away our heat faster. Think about leaving a fabric bath mat on the floor of the bathroom overnight, it's going to reach the same temperature as the tiles, but you're going to prefer standing on the mat rather than the tiles in the morning. So when you're thinking about what temperature flooring will feel like, the thing to look for is the thermal conductivity ("rate of accepting heat") of the material, with lower being better. According to this wikipedia table, concrete has a a thermal conductivity of around 1.5, while polymers (which I'm assuming an epoxy/resin floor would be) is like 0.04 to 0.5. Remember it's kind of a scaling factor, though; a very cold floor will pull away heat faster than a warmer one regardless of its thermal conductivity.
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Feb 6, 2020 20:15
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tater_salad posted:Quotes are 1500 and 3000 the 3000 company seems like a money grab and wants $500 just to look. They want $500 to come look at your situation so they know how much it's going to cost, but they already quoted you $3000 for the job? Sounds fishy, if they are going to charge that much just for an evaluation they shouldn't be giving out estimates sight unseen.
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Feb 6, 2020 20:20
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Company 2 said judging by pictures it would be $~2800... But won't give a full estimate unless we pay a $500 inspection fee which was included in the 2800 picture only quote.
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Feb 6, 2020 20:34
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SopWATh posted:Encapsulation with epoxy is the way to go for the floor. If you go with the epoxy, please write a note somewhere near the water heater / furnace / breaker box that says "Asbestos tile sealed under epoxy". God forbid you or someone down the road someday wants to do something like drainage repair and starts jackhammering.
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Feb 6, 2020 22:35
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tater_salad posted:Company 2 said judging by pictures it would be $~2800... But won't give a full estimate unless we pay a $500 inspection fee which was included in the 2800 picture only quote.
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Feb 6, 2020 22:47
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Hubis posted:If you go with the epoxy, please write a note somewhere near the water heater / furnace / breaker box that says "Asbestos tile sealed under epoxy". God forbid you or someone down the road someday wants to do something like drainage repair and starts jackhammering. It's in the 'rec room& side of the basement, there are no utilities there. It makes me wonder what happened when someone removed some of the tile for the sump.
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Feb 6, 2020 23:19
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