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Krakkles posted:If you find that you can't get the fill plug open, your options are a great deal less limited with fluid in your transmission. Wise. Mildly annoyed that the guide doesn't specify the type of replacement washer needed *before* I open it and take a look. Perhaps it's somewhere else in the specs.
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Feb 12, 2020 20:50
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Washers for things like that aren't what you'll find at most hardware stores, since it's probably soft aluminum. Honda will sell you one for a ridiculous marked up price. Can probably find the Official Honda Part Number through https://estore.honda.com/honda/customer-home.asp and then search around the usual scumbags until you find someone who will sell you a bag of five or ten generics for the same price as one Honda washer.
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Feb 12, 2020 20:56
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IOwnCalculus posted:Washers for things like that aren't what you'll find at most hardware stores, since it's probably soft aluminum. Honda will sell you one for a ridiculous marked up price. Can probably find the Official Honda Part Number through https://estore.honda.com/honda/customer-home.asp and then search around the usual scumbags until you find someone who will sell you a bag of five or ten generics for the same price as one Honda washer. 3 of your English pounds for OEM, it seems. https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-shop/genuine-honda-transmission-gearbox-fill-drain-washer-set/
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Feb 12, 2020 21:13
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IOwnCalculus posted:Have you ever changed the gear oil in the transmission? 60-70k miles is relatively low mileage but it's also 16 years old. If it's had any seepage over the years it could be low, and it could also be that the fluid is just worn out. My Mazda gets really hard to change gears if I go much more than 30k miles without changing the gear oil. I think it's somehow a much more temperamental unit than the average Mazda, but it's very pronounced. 16 years and 70k I would try it for sure, doesn't look too hard.
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Feb 12, 2020 23:34
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Charles posted:My Mazda gets really hard to change gears if I go much more than 30k miles without changing the gear oil. I think it's somehow a much more temperamental unit than the average Mazda, but it's very pronounced. 16 years and 70k I would try it for sure, doesn't look too hard. Miata owner spotted Edit: \/ \/ \/ Curses! 
Beach Bum fucked around with this message at 01:11 on Feb 13, 2020 |
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Feb 12, 2020 23:49
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Beach Bum posted:Miata owner spotted It's a 3.
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Feb 13, 2020 00:22
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PainterofCrap posted:... WAG here, but a potentially useful insight- I've had seemingly random and obvious shimmy shakes from a torn inner cv boot.l and grease that's gone walkabout. Other than that, I'm out of my depth with just about all of your post. Good luck, problems without an obvious return address are why I have grey hairs.
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Feb 13, 2020 01:08
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ryanrs posted:OK! I will put KO2s on my Sienna, possibly with white letters! As someone who spent the last decade pushing an aging 2wd Pontiac Vibe to its limit on forest service and blm roads, I just want to say I appreciate those authentic trail pinstripes. Embrace your all-terrain minivan destiny and go full Gambler 500.
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Feb 13, 2020 01:13
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It's also my daily driver in San Francisco, where the paint damage and dented bumpers serve as warnings to the other drivers, ha ha.
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Feb 13, 2020 02:26
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I'm about to buy a 2013 Outback..anything I should look out for? 90k on the ODO and everything's been done at the dealer. The guy (coworker) is selling it to me for 9k, so I'm gonna jump on it. Edit: Wow this guy is kind of a douche..he didn't disclose that there was an accident on the car *and* it was reported stolen less than a month ago (how does that even happen on a car like this). Thank goodness for CarFax. No way I'm buying this thing.. Bank fucked around with this message at 19:33 on Feb 13, 2020 |
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Feb 13, 2020 18:13
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... and a coworker as well? Some people..
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Feb 14, 2020 07:11
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Alright so you've all been very helpful so far, and I've gone back to when I asked about gear for oil changes and reviewed that, and this is my buy list: - trolley jack - rubber jack pad(s) - 4x cheap but well-reviewed jack stands - cheap import creeper - 2x small but well-reviewed wheel chocks - cheap replacement funnels 1/2 - cheap replacement funnels 2/2 - generic oil filter pliers - 10 litre oil pan/container (car contains 5ltr) - cheap wrench set (I have a socket set and torque wrench) - OEM oil filter and washer - 10x extra OEM oil drain plug washers (as backup and/or for future oil changes) - OEM filter removal tool - OEM transmission washers (for when I get round to that) Is there anything I'm missing or any red flags? I'm buying OEM consumables for this first go-around, and I'll be better placed to buy aftermarket after that. The OEM filter tool makes the generic filter pliers redundant but they're low cost so I'm keeping the redundancy. I'll also replace the really cheap stuff with more expensive as and when it feels necessary.
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Feb 14, 2020 14:58
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Looks good, but I started to replace using the mechanics creeper with just throwing gym mats (those that are put together like a puzzle) and crawling in under the car on them. Very comfortable. I'd get both as the gym mats are great for when you need to be on your knees etc.
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Feb 14, 2020 17:32
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Cheapo moving blankets (as from Harbor Freight) work well for that as well.
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Feb 14, 2020 17:37
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MrOnBicycle posted:Looks good, but I started to replace using the mechanics creeper with just throwing gym mats (those that are put together like a puzzle) and crawling in under the car on them. Very comfortable. Good suggestion. I have a decent number of those mats and also proper kneepads (along with stacks of other PPE) so I have that covered it seems.
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Feb 14, 2020 17:48
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2005 Pilot here. I was passing someone on the highway @ 70mph and it triggered the D light to blink. I've never had that happen before. I've had the car since late 2017 and had the transmission fluid drain+flush service done (with genuine Honda ATF). I pulled over and checked the fluid and it looks fine. I started the car up again and no blinking. Seems like it could be a sticky switch or something? Looking online it seems like it could be one of a hundred things and only the dealer can read the code.. Edit: FWIW I've never had weird shifting issues in the car since owning it. It's super smooth, even when the light was flashing. Edit 2: Looks like I need to replace some switches.. Bank fucked around with this message at 01:22 on Feb 15, 2020 |
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Feb 14, 2020 18:28
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MrOnBicycle posted:Looks good, but I started to replace using the mechanics creeper with just throwing gym mats (those that are put together like a puzzle) and crawling in under the car on them. Very comfortable. Lately I've been needing a head support too, I try not to wrench right over my face to keep debris from falling on me. A side effect of working on mostly old gritty iron. I'll position myself so the work is over my chest and I have to hold my head up a bit. Which is where the creeper is great but a rolled up anything works fine too.
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Feb 14, 2020 18:47
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Stupid question: anyone have a recommendation for a good quality chrome license plate frame? I got a cheap pair from AutoZone to replace the dealer frames a year ago and they are now completely pitted and look like absolute poo poo. (I used plain black frames, but chrome ones match the trim on my new car)
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Feb 15, 2020 03:00
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Uthor posted:Stupid question: anyone have a recommendation for a good quality chrome license plate frame? I got a cheap pair from AutoZone to replace the dealer frames a year ago and they are now completely pitted and look like absolute poo poo. How about polished stainless steel? https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01JAWEJF0?tag=aq-amazon08-20&sa-no-redirect=1 There's also billet aluminum but they're $$ and a theft hazard.
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Feb 15, 2020 20:18
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Arishtat posted:How about polished stainless steel? I'm willing to give it a shot!
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Feb 15, 2020 20:34
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How do they do the axles for 6 or 8 wheel drive vehicles, is there some kind of hierarchy of differentials or something?
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Feb 15, 2020 22:33
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Alright so I like to at least read the safety instructions on something that's safety-related, but the safety rules on these axle stands have me asking some questions. Namely, DO NOT use four axle stands on one vehicle DO NOT lift one end of a vehicle if the other end already rests on an axle stand DO NOT work under lifted vehicles Is this just rear end covering lawyer rules? Jaded Burnout fucked around with this message at 18:14 on Feb 16, 2020 |
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Feb 16, 2020 18:11
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Jaded Burnout posted:Alright so I like to at least read the safety instructions on something that's safety-related, but the safety rules on these axle stands have me asking some questions. Axle stands on one end, cinder blocks on the other end obv....
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Feb 16, 2020 18:49
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Not working under a car supported by 4 jack stands is new to me, I've been working under my cars for a while doing that. I always give lots of shoves to the car from all four corners, but I've yet to have a scare. I dunno how you're supposed to get a car fully in the air if you're not lifting one end up while the other is already on stands too. I'll lift the front up, put stands under, then go raise the back to put stands under the rear. If I've been taking my life in my hands, someone please let me know I'm an idiot and tell me how I'm supposed to do it. e: vvvv oh thank Mammon, I'm not being a complete moron GOD IS BED fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Feb 16, 2020 |
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Feb 16, 2020 18:57
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Jaded Burnout posted:Alright so I like to at least read the safety instructions on something that's safety-related, but the safety rules on these axle stands have me asking some questions. Wait what? I've put multiple cars on 4 axle stands. If you're on a concrete pad this is all bullshit.
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Feb 16, 2020 18:57
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Alright cool. It'll be on a level or pretty close to level paving slab drive. I could also knock up some wooden blocks and lower the wheels onto them if that's yet more safe.
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Feb 16, 2020 19:04
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I figure its got to be some sort of liability thing. Like probably most people's drive ways are kinda bumpy and not level etc. Most driveways I've ever seen have at least a little bit of slope to them, and I've seen asphalt driveways get little impressions in them from the "feet" of jack stands, particularly when its hot out. If you're working underneath it and don't need to have the wheels off, then definitely putting some wood under the wheels would be a good solution. If you could get some 2x6 or 2x8 boards, cut in to a few layers thick, and then leave a little divot or whatever to seat the tires in to that seems like it'd be pretty safe. Maybe something like this:  Screw or nail all the layers together, then jack up each end, and place them under each corner with the tires in the "Opening" at the top.
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Feb 16, 2020 19:20
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Meanwhile I just did a fuel pump in an uneven dirt lot with four jack stands (and the jack, while lifting) supported by 3/4” plywood. I have zero idea why they would say don’t use four stands, other than lawyer-ese. Get it up there, block the wheels you haven’t lifted yet, shake it firmly, double check everything. It’s fine.
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Feb 16, 2020 23:12
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I am using a multimeter to try and find a parasitic draw. I am unplugging the negative battery cable, and then placing the positive probe on the cable, and the negative probe on the negative battery terminal. When I set it to the "A" setting it will say .5 amps, but when I set it to "mA" it will say 5.00. One of these readings do not make sense. What am I doing wrong? Edit: when I get the .5 amps reading, I have the positive probe in the "10A" port. When I do the mA reading, it is in the "mA" port. Big Dick Cheney fucked around with this message at 23:16 on Feb 16, 2020 |
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Feb 16, 2020 23:14
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There is a couple resistors in the meter that are used to convert current to voltage. It's possible that the resistor is acting like a current limit in mA mode. Or maybe you are at the maximum mA reading but it isn't nice enough to have an overload message. What meter is it? taqueso fucked around with this message at 23:25 on Feb 16, 2020 |
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Feb 16, 2020 23:22
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taqueso posted:There is a couple resistors in the meter that are used to convert current to voltage. It's possible that the resistor is acting like a current limit in mA mode. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXX2OYY
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Feb 16, 2020 23:24
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Do you have any known value resistors you could use to test the meter using V=I*R?
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Feb 16, 2020 23:29
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If you are near San Francisco, I will test your multimeter in my company's r&d electronics lab chock full of state-of-the-art HP test equipment (from 1980).
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Feb 18, 2020 05:09
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ryanrs posted:state-of-the-art HP test equipment (from 1980). If that poo poo has been maintained you know it's annoying to use but still dead on. I love my boat anchors.
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Feb 18, 2020 05:29
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For real
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Feb 18, 2020 06:46
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I'm a car idiot, help. I don't really have to commute anywhere, but I'm still in a fairly drive-heavy area and I'd love not to have to rely on Uber for everything. I want a vehicle that is bulletproof (aka don't break), is frugal, is cheap to maintain, doesn't impress anybody, gets me from A to B, that has CarPlay and modern safety features so I don't cripple myself by being a dipshit. What would fit these requirements? I'm thinking either a recent (2016+) Civic or a Corolla, since depreciation is only about... $1000 to $1500 a year on these, so I should still be able to sell them back if I need to later down the line without it hurting too bad. Thoughts?
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Feb 18, 2020 23:37
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DreadCthulhu posted:I'm a car idiot, help. I don't really have to commute anywhere, but I'm still in a fairly drive-heavy area and I'd love not to have to rely on Uber for everything. I want a vehicle that is bulletproof (aka don't break), is frugal, is cheap to maintain, doesn't impress anybody, gets me from A to B, that has CarPlay and modern safety features so I don't cripple myself by being a dipshit. What would fit these requirements? I'm thinking either a recent (2016+) Civic or a Corolla, since depreciation is only about... $1000 to $1500 a year on these, so I should still be able to sell them back if I need to later down the line without it hurting too bad. Thoughts? This thread might be able to help you: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538
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Feb 18, 2020 23:47
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incogneato posted:This thread might be able to help you: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538 I'll cross post in there, thank you.
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Feb 18, 2020 23:48
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DreadCthulhu posted:I'm a car idiot, help. I don't really have to commute anywhere, but I'm still in a fairly drive-heavy area and I'd love not to have to rely on Uber for everything. I want a vehicle that is bulletproof (aka don't break), is frugal, is cheap to maintain, doesn't impress anybody, gets me from A to B, that has CarPlay and modern safety features so I don't cripple myself by being a dipshit. What would fit these requirements? I'm thinking either a recent (2016+) Civic or a Corolla, since depreciation is only about... $1000 to $1500 a year on these, so I should still be able to sell them back if I need to later down the line without it hurting too bad. Thoughts? Your best bet is Iron Planet for used armored vehicles, cost wise. Still going to be a logistical challenge taking receipt and registering, and you'll need an aftermarket radio for car play. Shouldn't depreciate much more than it has already, depending on what kind of damage you take.
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Feb 18, 2020 23:52
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Depreciation is never consistently some X/yr thing and to some extent it's irrelevant. If you think you won't need a car in two years, don't buy a car or buy one further along in its depreciation cycle. If you think you'll need to sell the car to get access to the money you spent on purchasing it, put more money in savings and buy a cheaper car. You're not buying a new S-class and losing $40k in depreciation right off the bat.
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Feb 18, 2020 23:53
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