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Is there a pencil that reliably marks on wood but is also amenable to being erased? I've tried using my collection of graphite and pastel and charcoal which only really maybe works if there's some tooth to grab on to
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Feb 14, 2020 15:30
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dupersaurus posted:Is there a pencil that reliably marks on wood but is also amenable to being erased? I've tried using my collection of graphite and pastel and charcoal which only really maybe works if there's some tooth to grab on to I use graphite or wax depending if I want precision & erasability or visibility. Your graphite pencils aren't erasing?
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Feb 14, 2020 15:54
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Jaded Burnout posted:I use graphite or wax depending if I want precision & erasability or visibility. Your graphite pencils aren't erasing? Erasing is good enough, it's getting it to mark reliably if the surface is too smooth (these are like turning blocks or offcuts). Tho maybe I've been trying non-conventional too much and need to hit up plain old graphite again...
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Feb 14, 2020 16:03
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Only time I’ve ever had a normal pencil not really mark on wood is if the wood was really wet. Harder lead doesn’t always work great either.
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Feb 14, 2020 16:08
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I love carpenter's pencils. They're big and fit well in my hand and are easy to put different points on and easy to find and cheap (free at most stores you buy anything from and have a rapport with)
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Feb 14, 2020 16:14
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I love carpenter's pencils. They're big and fit well in my hand and are easy to put different points on and easy to find and cheap (free at most stores you buy anything from and have a rapport with) Yeah I use carpenters' pencils for broad markings, mechanical pencils in places where I should really be using a marking blade or something, china pencils (wax) for marking rough surfaces, and builders' crayons (lol) for marking lumber. I've not yet tried taking the wax off yet, though, I use gaffer tape in those situations. I'd think in most cases you'd be sanding or otherwise trimming off any marks made, though?
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Feb 14, 2020 16:17
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I love carpenter's pencils. They're big and fit well in my hand and are easy to put different points on and easy to find and cheap (free at most stores you buy anything from and have a rapport with) I got a delivery of construction supplies a few years ago and the guy driving the truck just kinda tossed a half-dozen carpenter's pencils to me. They hand them out like candy. If you're having trouble erasing marks, might I suggest sandpaper? 
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Feb 14, 2020 16:27
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Can someone explain (possibly again) when to use 000 and 0000 steel wool to finish? My workflow lately has been ~60-100-180-220 dry then 320-400-600 wet and I was planning on steel wool for the second to last finish and just my hands for the last finish but after some googling about steel wool I'm not sure I have that right? This is seafin teak oil on cedar/maple/fir if it makes any difference Jaded Burnout posted:Yeah I use carpenters' pencils for broad markings, mechanical pencils in places where I should really be using a marking blade or something, china pencils (wax) for marking rough surfaces, and builders' crayons (lol) for marking lumber. I've not yet tried taking the wax off yet, though, I use gaffer tape in those situations. I've never used gaffer's tape, I should grab some of that. I've been burned before by adhesive residue getting left on some stone. TooMuchAbstraction posted:I got a delivery of construction supplies a few years ago and the guy driving the truck just kinda tossed a half-dozen carpenter's pencils to me. They hand them out like candy. Yea I love that, its the stupidest little thing that makes me feel cool. My hardware store cashiers hook me up every time. Dunn Lumber used to give me a handful every time too.
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Feb 14, 2020 16:36
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dupersaurus posted:Erasing is good enough, it's getting it to mark reliably if the surface is too smooth (these are like turning blocks or offcuts). Tho maybe I've been trying non-conventional too much and need to hit up plain old graphite again... Turning blocks that are waxed over? Use a marking knife or dig in with your pencil. Is this just to mark the centers or for drawing on marking lines when your turning?
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Feb 14, 2020 16:45
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Can someone explain (possibly again) when to use 000 and 0000 steel wool to finish? My workflow lately has been ~60-100-180-220 dry then 320-400-600 wet and I was planning on steel wool for the second to last finish and just my hands for the last finish but after some googling about steel wool I'm not sure I have that right? This is seafin teak oil on cedar/maple/fir if it makes any difference Gaff tape everywhere is one of the few things I miss about theatre. Stuff is awesome. Are you getting good results with your initial dry sanding? 60-100-180 seems like pretty big jumps in grit to me, with softer wood it may not matter as much. 80-120-150 (wet) 220 is my usual, but I’d love to find out I’m sanding too much. Steel wool is best for rubbing out film finishes like lacquer/shellac/varnish/poly. Usually you first sand the finish level with like 320 and then rub with steel wool to get the desired sheen. It makes the finish look better and feel nicer. Teak oil is often actually a long oil varnish, so it’s sort of a film finish, but not really enough rub out. Rubbing it out will still make the finish feel smoother, especially in curvy parts where a flat sheet of paper might not get everything. My crazy buddy Floyd did a pretty good video on rubbing out poly: https://youtu.be/Kp87We2E-44 Be careful using steel wool on oak or any that that might get wet because you don’t get every bit of steel wool dust off it can rust and discolor the wood. Scotchbrite pads avoid this and usually last a little, longer but are more expensive, and don’t quiiiiite rub the same as steel wool. The Maroon ‘very fine’ is about 000 and the grey ultrafine are 0000 steel wool.
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Feb 14, 2020 16:54
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Sockser posted:Just bought a Grizzly 1073 for $140. Seller says “the switch doesn’t work” but I figure even if I have to replace the motor and reword the whole thing that’s a loving steal. Picking it up next week. Very excited— this finally completes all the shop “essential” power tools and really opens up lots of poo poo for me Update: Turns out the auction was from a Vo Tech that’s replacing it I guess, which means I need to pick it up between 8am and 3pm on weekdays, which I could conceivably swing, but it’s 430lbs, so I need to rope a buddy into also ditching work early to drive an hour into the sticks to get it with me. Fun. Logistics of government auctions are always a delight. How much weight do you wager is in just the stand and motor on a band saw? How much easier will that make this job?
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Feb 14, 2020 17:05
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JEEVES420 posted:Turning blocks that are waxed over? Use a marking knife or dig in with your pencil. Is this just to mark the centers or for drawing on marking lines when your turning? Drawing pictures to carve in. The general problem is that I'm getting pieces that have been sawed, and depending on how smooth that cut surface is or what direction the grain is going, the pencil will either mark or not. Like last night I had a plank of walnut with some wild grain, drew a line right down its length and every few inches it'd switch between marking and not for ~reasons~. I eventually got all the lines I needed but it took a lot of scratching over and over spots
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Feb 14, 2020 17:11
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Sockser posted:Update: Turns out the auction was from a Vo Tech that’s replacing it I guess, which means I need to pick it up between 8am and 3pm on weekdays, which I could conceivably swing, but it’s 430lbs, so I need to rope a buddy into also ditching work early to drive an hour into the sticks to get it with me. Fun. Logistics of government auctions are always a delight. Maybe 100 lbs, maybe not that much. Idk what those stands look like. It should make it easier just in that you've got 2 more compact sections. Bring a dolly?
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Feb 14, 2020 17:17
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Mr. Mambold posted:Maybe 100 lbs, maybe not that much. Idk what those stands look like. It should make it easier just in that you've got 2 more compact sections. Bring a dolly? They’re gonna have it like, ready to go outside for me, the problem is just being able to shlep it into the back of my pickup I suppose if they have loading docks I might be able to just drop it down into my truck instead of lifting it up
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Feb 14, 2020 17:19
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dupersaurus posted:Drawing pictures to carve in. The general problem is that I'm getting pieces that have been sawed, and depending on how smooth that cut surface is or what direction the grain is going, the pencil will either mark or not. Like last night I had a plank of walnut with some wild grain, drew a line right down its length and every few inches it'd switch between marking and not for ~reasons~. I eventually got all the lines I needed but it took a lot of scratching over and over spots I use china pencils in this situation, but they're wax so not super fine pointed. Harry Potter on Ice posted:I've never used gaffer's tape, I should grab some of that. I've been burned before by adhesive residue getting left on some stone. I only use Pro Gaff so can't speak for other brands.
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Feb 14, 2020 17:22
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Gaff tape everywhere is one of the few things I miss about theatre. Stuff is awesome. I start with the 60 usually because I need to do either some shaping or material removal and the pad quickly loses initial roughness otherwise I definitely wouldn't start that low (this is also with a baby angle grinder or belt sander). Thinking about it more I do have a 120 grit I use in between 100 and 180 which actually seems to matter. I'm definitely trying to find out how to determine the sweet spot as far as sanding too much not just for cutting out labor but for the final product. Its not that hard to make wood smooth but it is tricky to not make it look "worn out" if that makes sense? I can definitely get caught in the weeds in some middle grits and come out with a less satisfying final product. I'll post some pics later and try and find out what is going on Wait though, you do your 80-120-150 wet? This is after your dry sanding? For some reason I thought wet sanding was for the ultra fine grits with wood but I guess I do a lot of wet rough sanding with stone with rough grits so that makes sense. Just when I think I'm dialing it in Thanks for the video, I like floyd's videos. Wish he lived near me so I could bug him with questions. I'll have to play around with the steel wool a bit; an old sculptor swears by it and his wood sculptures look amazing 20 years later so I'm into it.
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Feb 14, 2020 17:45
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Why didn’t anyone tell me sinking 1/4” wood plugs snugly into a drilled out hole was so ultimately satisfying? I just wanna built a board full of holes and plug a few whenever the mood strikes, similar to how someone might pop packing bubble wrap.
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Feb 14, 2020 17:53
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:
You in Seattle? (Not sure how far and wide Dunn is situated...)
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Feb 14, 2020 17:55
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Sockser posted:They’re gonna have it like, ready to go outside for me, the problem is just being able to shlep it into the back of my pickup Bring some skids and just tip it onto the gate and bed and slide er in.... maybe bring more friends and a case of beer usually is the ticket
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Feb 14, 2020 17:58
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Feenix posted:You in Seattle? (Not sure how far and wide Dunn is situated...) Used to be around there until I started going crazy from the 2 block commute off cap hill to get on I5. It took over 20 minutes every day, gently caress Denny
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Feb 14, 2020 17:58
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Feenix posted:Why didn’t anyone tell me sinking 1/4” wood plugs snugly into a drilled out hole was so ultimately satisfying? I just wanna built a board full of holes and plug a few whenever the mood strikes, similar to how someone might pop packing bubble wrap. Don't get a pocket hole jig and plugs. The angled plug going in flush is just weird.
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Feb 14, 2020 18:33
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I start with the 60 usually because I need to do either some shaping or material removal and the pad quickly loses initial roughness otherwise I definitely wouldn't start that low (this is also with a baby angle grinder or belt sander). Thinking about it more I do have a 120 grit I use in between 100 and 180 which actually seems to matter. I'm definitely trying to find out how to determine the sweet spot as far as sanding too much not just for cutting out labor but for the final product. Its not that hard to make wood smooth but it is tricky to not make it look "worn out" if that makes sense? I can definitely get caught in the weeds in some middle grits and come out with a less satisfying final product. I'll post some pics later and try and find out what is going on I mistyped earlier. I sand 80-100-120 dry and then wet the wood to raise the grain. Then I sand with 150 or 220 after it dries to knock the raised fibers off. I mostly do this because I used water based dyes. It does yield a slightly smoother finish, but it’s not strictly necessary if you aren’t using water based stain/dyes/finish. I’ve messed around with sanding much finer than 220 before finishing, but with a film finish couldn’t tell any difference in the finished product. With an oiled finish I think there’s more benefit, but ime you get into rapidly diminishing marginal returns territory pretty quickly after like 320/400ish? I think wet sanding raw wood with the oil used as the finish is not a bad idea, but otherwise I save wet sanding for sanding the finish. Dry sanding works fine too, it’s just slower and the paper clogs pretty quickly with some finishes. Wet sanding cuts much faster and the paper lasts much longer, and good 320 paper ain’t cheap. Steel wool does give stuff a nice satin shine and great feel to the hand, so it probably is a good thing in sculpture. In my experience with finishing, the right answer is almost always ‘make a bunch of samples, experiment with different things, find the one you like best’ and then see if you can get the same result an easier/simpler way. I’ve found waxing over an oil finish makes stuff feel nice and esp. with a beeswax based polish, gives a nice soft shine.
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Feb 14, 2020 19:45
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Used to be around there until I started going crazy from the 2 block commute off cap hill to get on I5. It took over 20 minutes every day, gently caress Denny Where are you at these days? I'm just north in Mountlake Terrace Sockser posted:They’re gonna have it like, ready to go outside for me, the problem is just being able to shlep it into the back of my pickup Usually separating the base and the machine is really helpful. And I would recommend removing the table and trunnions as well if you plan to lay it on the side for transport. The trunnions can break fairly easily since most of the weight will rest on the table/trunnions when laid on the side. It's often just a bolt on each side, and the trunnion stays attached to the table, at least on my old Delta. Maybe post a photo to give a better idea of what you are working with.
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Feb 14, 2020 21:23
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Falco posted:Usually separating the base and the machine is really helpful. And I would recommend removing the table and trunnions as well if you plan to lay it on the side for transport. The trunnions can break fairly easily since most of the weight will rest on the table/trunnions when laid on the side. It's often just a bolt on each side, and the trunnion stays attached to the table, at least on my old Delta.  Not this exact guy— one I bought is missing the fence and rails— but same model in general. Suppose if I’m to take the table off I’ll need to yank the blade out as well, yeah?
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Feb 14, 2020 21:34
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If it's like my Grizzly 14", you should be able to break it apart into broadly these units: motor, top wheel, bottom wheel, table, base. Certainly it looks like the motor+base are separable from the rest of the tool. And yeah, remove the blade, just as a matter of principle I wouldn't want sharp stuff around while moving anything heavy.
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Feb 14, 2020 21:54
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Falco posted:Where are you at these days? I'm just north in Mountlake Terrace. Yeah I say Seattle but I’m literally just south of Shoreline.
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Feb 14, 2020 23:11
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Hey folks, got a question. I'm finishing a couple pieces in BLO right now for the first time. Do you usually sand between coats? I was thinking of hitting it with some steel wool.
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Feb 15, 2020 02:07
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As a rule, lightly sand and then wipe down with a dry cloth or tack cloth between each coat.
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Feb 15, 2020 02:19
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Sounds good to me. The project in question, since sharing is fun: 
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Feb 15, 2020 03:12
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Sharing *is* fun! I finalized the coat rack my wife had wanted me to make. Literally on Valentine’s Day so... convenient! First pic is the old crappy peg rack that didn’t hold things and was not attractive. I used mahogany, cut, routed the edges, sanded it up to 400, and put like 5 coats of Tru-Oil gun stock finish. It looks real nice. Used cast-iron hooks. (Still going to replace and do the bottom one too.)    
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Feb 15, 2020 04:16
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That's really nice, good work!
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Feb 15, 2020 05:17
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Anyone got any tips on aligning boards end to end during glue-up other than "get a long straight thing and clamp it alongside like a splint"?
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Feb 15, 2020 15:46
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Get a bunch of longish straight boards and clamp them across the glue joint. Put packing tape on the side that contacts the piece to keep glue from sticking to it. There's a term for these things, I forget what it is though.
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Feb 15, 2020 18:04
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Get a bunch of longish straight boards and clamp them across the glue joint. Put packing tape on the side that contacts the piece to keep glue from sticking to it. There's a term for these things, I forget what it is though. Caul
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Feb 15, 2020 18:16
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Get a bunch of longish straight boards and clamp them across the glue joint. Put packing tape on the side that contacts the piece to keep glue from sticking to it. There's a term for these things, I forget what it is though. Could you clarify how this is different to "get a long straight thing and clamp it alongside like a splint"?
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Feb 15, 2020 19:05
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Jaded Burnout posted:Could you clarify how this is different to "get a long straight thing and clamp it alongside like a splint"? I think generally a caul is used for going across the glue joint, like on a panel or cutting board glue up to keep it flat. From your earlier pics you're gluing two ends together right? So you need something long and straight like an 8' level or angle iron (like a splint). If you have a true ish 2x4 that would probably be fine on edge but make sure its a decent one
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Feb 15, 2020 19:15
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:I think generally a caul is used for going across the glue joint, like on a panel or cutting board glue up to keep it flat. From your earlier pics you're gluing two ends together right? So you need something long and straight like an 8' level or angle iron (like a splint). If you have a true ish 2x4 that would probably be fine on edge but make sure its a decent one I do have an 8ft level that I completely forgot about. Thanks!
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Feb 15, 2020 19:19
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Jaded Burnout posted:I do have an 8ft level that I completely forgot about. Thanks! No prob and don't clamp on the bubbles, another sad life lesson learned the hard way
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Feb 15, 2020 19:23
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Jaded Burnout posted:Anyone got any tips on aligning boards end to end during glue-up other than "get a long straight thing and clamp it alongside like a splint"? Yeah. 1) You're going to use a clamp every foot or so, and either a dead-blow hammer or a regular hammer and a block. You've got your 1 edge glued, not too much glue; ambient temp not too hot or cold. 2)Rub the 2 pieces together for the glue to coat both surfaces, while laid flat. 3) You can start in the middle or at one end. Tighten a clamp to where the pieces are smooth across but not final tight. This is kind of figure as you go tightness. Work down the length of the boards. You'll expect some bowing, but you're using the clamps to correct that. 4) When you've got a clamped area that's offset you want to align better, loosen clamp and lightly smack offending board down to align them. Lightly. Tighten clamp to where this area won't move. 5) Work your way up and down like that, making sure your clamps are tight where the surfaces are nice and even so it won't move. You have a limited time to get it right, say 5 minutes, but in cooler, damper weather you've got plenty more time than that. MetaJew posted:Caul No.
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Feb 15, 2020 19:28
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Mr. Mambold posted:Yeah. 1) You're going to use a clamp every foot or so, and either a dead-blow hammer or a regular hammer and a block. You've got your 1 edge glued, not too much glue; ambient temp not too hot or cold. This isn't the type of gluing I'm doing right now, I'm doing end-to-end joints, but it'll be useful for later, thanks.
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Feb 15, 2020 19:48
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