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I've always loved those old craftsman post stands from the 50's. They look so much better than the later stuff and take up less floor space.
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Feb 19, 2020 07:01
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Speaking of jointers, this arrived today.
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Feb 19, 2020 13:09
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Baronash posted:Double post to show off the jointer after a second night of cleaning. Thanks for the suggestions on cleaning products. It came out really nice. I legitimately didn’t think it could even get this clean. Vinegar, a little bit of steel wool, and some more scotchbrite pads got me the rest of the way to a shiny, smooth surface. That cutterhead's not missing anything, is it? Something looks off to me there.
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Feb 19, 2020 15:58
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Mr. Mambold posted:That cutterhead's not missing anything, is it? Something looks off to me there. I removed the knives and wedges to clean them and haven’t put them back yet. As far as I can tell, every piece the manual says should be there is in place.
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Feb 19, 2020 16:13
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Baronash posted:I removed the knives and wedges to clean them and haven’t put them back yet. As far as I can tell, every piece the manual says should be there is in place. I was hoping you'd say something exactly like that. *wipes forehead*
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Feb 19, 2020 16:18
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Checking out what is supposed to be the last coat of seafin teak oil on western red cedar and I don't really like where it ended. The second to last coat was 600 wet, the last I didn't do anything to besides wipe it off and I'm left with a pretty decent but not perfect gloss. Can I do another coat and 600 wet sand it again or is that a big nono? Should I use an 800 or 1000 grit and call it the final? I've never taken wood past 600 grit and I've really liked and seen a difference in each step before this so I'm kind of tempted to. I don't really care for a final gloss coat I just wanted to make it more impenetrable to the elements edit: manufacturer says to go with bronze wool to fix this coat and lol everyone wasn't lying about how nice the people are on the number on the can. He also highly rec'ed against using any 000 or 0000 steel wool as the little flakes will rust over time, good to know Harry Potter on Ice fucked around with this message at 22:21 on Feb 19, 2020 |
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Feb 19, 2020 19:27
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JEEVES420 posted:Depends on if your jaws are long enough to grip the lip and not the curve of the opening. Other option is a jam chuck in the opening and a live center on the tail stock to hold it in place. You won't be able to get that final nib on the bottom where the live center touches, but a sander or flush cut saw to take it off and then hand sand and apply finish. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bGt16eJctss 
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Feb 19, 2020 21:26
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That looks really nice, congrats!
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Feb 19, 2020 22:52
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Maybe not strictly woodworking but I figure you fine folk might know. I picked up a table of the street, it's a little banged up so I decided to sand it down and refinish it. It's going well enough, but whoever owned it before had installed some kind of shin guard foam with some horrible adhesive. I've been using 91% isopropyl alcohol to clean it which is working slowly, any harm (to the wood) in trying 100% acetone? Finally, there's a kind of ridged section to the side of the table that I'm not sure I'll really be able to effectively sand. Can attach a pic later but imagine a bunch of stacked dowels. Any suggestions for how to deal with this? I've seen some kind of angled block sanders that might work but would be slow. Any use in trying paint thinner, and if yes any suggestions for a type or brand? Thanks 
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Feb 20, 2020 01:06
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The March Hare posted:Maybe not strictly woodworking but I figure you fine folk might know. I picked up a table of the street, it's a little banged up so I decided to sand it down and refinish it.
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Feb 20, 2020 01:21
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Speaking of headaches: save yourself one and whatever damage those fumes will do to you and get a respirator with volatile organic compound (VOC) filters. I recommend these filters to go with this respirator. Keep the filters in a ziplock bag when not in use, since they get used up by interacting with the atmosphere. You can tell they're dead when you start smelling the fumes again.
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Feb 20, 2020 01:36
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Speaking of headaches: save yourself one and whatever damage those fumes will do to you and get a respirator with volatile organic compound (VOC) filters. I recommend these filters to go with this respirator. Keep the filters in a ziplock bag when not in use, since they get used up by interacting with the atmosphere. You can tell they're dead when you start smelling the fumes again. Thanks for the good reminder that it's past time to get new cartridges. I'm partial to this mask because it has a quick release so you can talk to people or answer the phone or w/e https://www.amazon.com/3M-Personal-Protective-Equipment-51131494904/dp/B01DU2ZPHW/ref=lp_2257619011_1_23?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1582159076&sr=1-23
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Feb 20, 2020 01:41
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:This is the most important advice. I've lost so many brain cells from huffing lacquer thinner I forgot to mention it! This is the mask I use as well, very comfortable. I keep meaning to ask how bad fumes are for you.. I was using some rubber cement the other day and it was pretty strong in the area I was working and someone was pretty shocked I was doing that. You just have to leave when the headache starts...right? right??
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Feb 20, 2020 01:56
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We've had some hectic storms the past few weeks and one of the houses near me has cut down a big rear end tree. No idea what, but there's a big pile of probably 30cm thick crosscut slabs out the front with some interesting shapes and I notice my breathing gets heavier as I drive past and imagine what I could turn these into But alas, they won't fit in my car and probably weigh a few hundred kg
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Feb 20, 2020 02:07
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Speaking of headaches: save yourself one and whatever damage those fumes will do to you and get a respirator with volatile organic compound (VOC) filters. I recommend these filters to go with this respirator. Keep the filters in a ziplock bag when not in use, since they get used up by interacting with the atmosphere. You can tell they're dead when you start smelling the fumes again. Those look familiar, and +1 on putting them in airtight bags. The carbon filters absorb humidity and are rendered neutral if you don't is what I always heard. Thanks for ziplock, its time has come.
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Feb 20, 2020 04:57
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Thanks for all the advice and yeah, I'll wear a respirator - I think I've got one left from some reno stuff somewhere. For clarification, the VM&P stuff should be good to kill both the glue and strip the finish off the base? The state it was in on the street.  Partially unfolded, with a bit of the (I assume) shin guard thing attached.  The bit I'm not super excited to sand.  The gross adhesive after soaking in IPA for a while (and a glimpse at where I sanded through the veneer a bit, woops.)  One side of the leaf partially sanded with another above it ready to be sanded. Doing all the work on my fire escape because, well, its all I've got.
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Feb 20, 2020 05:33
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Sand that thing down to bare wood. I was not envious at all until I got to that last pic.
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Feb 20, 2020 14:38
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Ghostnuke posted:Sand that thing down to bare wood. I was not envious at all until I got to that last pic. Yeah, that's the plan
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Feb 20, 2020 15:13
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The March Hare posted:Thanks for all the advice and yeah, I'll wear a respirator - I think I've got one left from some reno stuff somewhere. For clarification, the VM&P stuff should be good to kill both the glue and strip the finish off the base? That's kind of a cool table-never seen anything quite like it with fold out leaves on a coffee table. Looks like it is cherry and maybe maple or poplar. Harry Potter on Ice posted:This is the mask I use as well, very comfortable. I keep meaning to ask how bad fumes are for you.. I was using some rubber cement the other day and it was pretty strong in the area I was working and someone was pretty shocked I was doing that. You just have to leave when the headache starts...right? right?? The vinyl sealer I use has some serious stank to it, as does the wash thinner I use for cleaning up lacquer, but the normal lacquer thinner smells kind of nice (has whatever that stuff is that smells like bananas-isosomething something). Alcohol based stuff like dye or shellac actually are what seem to get to me fastest and also the thing I'm mostly likely to not wear a mask for because I drink it so it can't hurt me too bad, right? I'm not as good about wearing a respirator around mineral spirits/naphtha as I should be, and both can cause long term damage and short term headache/irritability.
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Feb 20, 2020 15:30
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Thanks for the clarification. Going to head to home depot today to grab some stuff. My plan is to just sand it to wood and clear coat it. I've never done anything like this before, but from reading it seems like polyurethane should be what I use for a table that will see some use, does that sound right? I like the sound of using something like linseed oil more but its completely based on emotional response.
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Feb 20, 2020 16:02
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Ghostnuke posted:Sand that thing down to bare wood. I was not envious at all until I got to that last pic.  nice Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Potential fires are as worrying to me as a headache, and that may be why someone was so surprised at you standing in a room full of very flammable contact cement solvent. Contact cement fumes are pretty nasty and potentially explosive and the fumes are heavier than air which makes them even worse in the explosive department. I am in the camp of 'good ventilation is as important as a good respirator,' especially with very volatile, flammable solvents (and pretty much all the solvents used in coatings are very volatile on purpose-that's why we use them!). I have a metal spray booth because I'm required to for spraying flammable finishes, and that catches overspray and exhausts the fumes when I spray. Even not rearing a respirator, it does a good enough job I usually can't smell what I'm spraying. I also use it as a fume hood when working with other stinky stuff. Working outside is always a good idea if weather permits. Always good info, thank you
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Feb 20, 2020 16:16
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The March Hare posted:Thanks for all the advice and yeah, I'll wear a respirator - I think I've got one left from some reno stuff somewhere. For clarification, the VM&P stuff should be good to kill both the glue and strip the finish off the base? Take a scraper to that first, just go gently. Then bring out your favorite stripper. It will likely take some sanding after that.
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Feb 20, 2020 18:51
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The March Hare posted:Thanks for the clarification. Going to head to home depot today to grab some stuff. My plan is to just sand it to wood and clear coat it. I've never done anything like this before, but from reading it seems like polyurethane should be what I use for a table that will see some use, does that sound right? I like the sound of using something like linseed oil more but its completely based on emotional response. Oil finishes are great for color, but they don't build up any protective layer on top of the wood. For a table like that, you're going to want a varnish like polyurethane.
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Feb 20, 2020 23:08
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 I may put one or two more layers of oil on as wear goes, but I think this is my final finish.
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Feb 21, 2020 14:45
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Liquid Communism posted:
How many coats did you do total and what kind of (if any) sanding in between? Looks good
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Feb 21, 2020 16:21
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After about a year of saving from craft shows, Etsy, and other side jobs I was finally able to purchase a SawStop Professional. I figured If I was going to upgrade I might as well go big. Unfortunately, the shippers would only take it as far as my garage, and I have a basement shop. So I bribed a friend over to help me take it down the stairs by hand, which was quite the ordeal as the saw is drat heavy. I really should have got a furniture dolly in retrospect, but we managed it 1 step at a time and taking a few breaks. Now today my shoulder is just shot, totally stiff and in a good amount of pain. I think I pulled it or something. SawStops are dangerous and will hurt you!
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Feb 21, 2020 19:45
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SoreStops
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Feb 21, 2020 20:27
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all the advice for using shellac talks about using denatured alcohol. I happen to have some 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol lying around that is otherwise not being used; would it be functionally identical, or is the 9% water still too high? I'm not easily finding the solution % for denatured alcohol.
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Feb 21, 2020 21:18
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Leperflesh posted:all the advice for using shellac talks about using denatured alcohol. I happen to have some 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol lying around that is otherwise not being used; would it be functionally identical, or is the 9% water still too high? I'm not easily finding the solution % for denatured alcohol. I think I asked this same question regarding thinning a shellac-based primer, and was presumably told not to go with the isopropyl as I went out and bought (and used) the meths.
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Feb 21, 2020 21:23
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OK, fair enough. I'm just impatient and can't get out to buy some denatured alcohol till probably next week some time.
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Feb 21, 2020 21:28
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It should be available on Amazon, if that helps.
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Feb 21, 2020 21:33
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Jaded Burnout posted:It should be available on Amazon, if that helps. It is, but shipping highly volatile fluids is expensive because it has to be handled as a hazardous material and so it's all severely overpriced on amazon. I just need to stop by home depot next time I have a chance. e. OH, it's actually banned in California. Like straight up illegal here. What. https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?277195-Denatured-Alcohol-Suppliers-and-Substitutes I guess I need camp stove fuel. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Feb 21, 2020 |
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Feb 21, 2020 21:38
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Leperflesh posted:I guess I need camp stove fuel. Yeah so I don't know the chemistry specifics, but "methylated spirits" is what it's called here, and it's used both as a paint thinner/stripper and as camping fuel. It is reasonably priced on these shores.
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Feb 21, 2020 21:57
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Leperflesh posted:It is, but shipping highly volatile fluids is expensive because it has to be handled as a hazardous material and so it's all severely overpriced on amazon. I just need to stop by home depot next time I have a chance. That’s very surprising but also not surprising Because California. Isopropyl will probably work fine. The only problem I could see with the water % is you might get a milky finish, but I imagine denatured alcohol has some water in it too. There are some solvent mixes sold specifically for shellac, ‘Behkol’ was one, that I think were purer alchohol with maybe also something to retard the drying a little. You might see if you can order some, but they are probably banned in CA too. I wonder if it was the ethanol or the methanol or what that they didn’t like enough in denatured alcohol to ban it in CA? California/Europe have forced some big gains in water based lacquers and stuff. One of these days I’m gonna have to try them out.
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Feb 21, 2020 22:05
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I've done some research. Denatured alcohol is banned in Canada, California, and a couple of other places. For you brits, it's exactly the same thing as methylated spirits. There are many discussions online of what to use instead. The ban is because it's been used as "glass cleaner" and is considered both an environmental pollutant and health risk, but mostly it's the VOC issue. I don't know why it's being singled out when the paint thinner aisle at home depot is chock full of much more dangerous and nasty poo poo, but there ya go, regulations don't always make sense. Probably there's tons of alternatives for cleaning glass, and nobody in the powerful woodworker's lobby showed up to the CARB meetings to tell the regulators not to ban the only/best substance for making shellac for traditional woodworking. My local Rockler has two bottles on hand of "Mowhawk Shellac Reducer" which is basically denatured alcohol with a couple of other additives that is somehow OK to sell here, so that's gonna be what I go get next time I can.
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Feb 21, 2020 22:10
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What is the price you are seeing? $10 next day delivery for a pint seems pretty cheap. And I don't get why anyone would want to live in California, seems like everything there gives you cancer 
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Feb 21, 2020 22:20
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Rockler's price is $12.99 a quart for the shellac reducer, plus sales tax. I have some coupons though, if I buy $50 of stuff I save $10, so I'm gonna get a 20% discount on that as long as I can pile enough other crap into my cart (I definitely can). Noplace I can find that sells normal denatured alcohol will ship it to california, and that makes sense because doing so would be illegal. e. would you feel better about living in California if I told you that we have so many walnut orchards that sometimes people just chop up walnut for firewood? You can also get (not just red) oak pretty cheap here too. Also it's basically never too cold in the winter to work in my (unheated) garage.
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Feb 21, 2020 22:48
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In Canada you can get a fireplace fuel called Bioflame that is denatured alcohol, not sure how they're allowed to sell it, but the fine print says it's denatured alcohol. So maybe there is something like that you can find?
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Feb 22, 2020 01:32
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Cripes, I found five dollar bottles of 95% denatured ethanol at my corner pharmacy, works perfectly with shellac. I'd skip the isopropanol, too, it makes the shellac quite cloudy at its lower concentration.
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Feb 22, 2020 02:40
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:That’s very surprising but also not surprising Because California. Isopropyl will probably work fine. The only problem I could see with the water % is you might get a milky finish, but I imagine denatured alcohol has some water in it too. There are some solvent mixes sold specifically for shellac, ‘Behkol’ was one, that I think were purer alchohol with maybe also something to retard the drying a little. You might see if you can order some, but they are probably banned in CA too. I think the water is what makes it denatured, but I could be wrong. No idea why California would ban it, as it's nowhere near the class of hotness of toluene/tolenol based lacquer or lacquer thinner. I think you'll really like them as well as water based polyurethane. I got into them 30 years ago and I know they've advanced even more dramatically over the past few, erm decades.
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Feb 22, 2020 04:45
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